NEW spark plugs - Correct method to replace current spark plugs with new spark plugs? - Page 2 - VTXOA
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by harkon View Post
17k is nothing for the stock plugs, but if you feel like changing them, then it won't do any harm. The oem plugs are iridium and generally do not require one to gap them before installation. If you do gap them, be careful to avoid damaging the electrode. The iridium plug electrodes come to a very fine point and that is easily damage. If you get the plugs from honda they will come correctly gapped.

This from ngk:

do i need to set the gap when installing a new set of plugs?

a: Maybe. A spark plug part number might fit hundreds of different engines from many different manufacturers. Although the ngk factory will set the gap to a preselected setting, this may not be the right gap for your particular engine. The incorrect plug gap for your engine can contribute to a high rate of misfires, loss of power, plug fouling, poor fuel economy and accelerated plug wear. It is always best to check the gap against the manufacturer's specifications. If adjusting the gap on fine wire or precious metal plugs such as platinum or iridium, be very careful not to apply any pressure or prying force to the fine wire center electrode or insulator as they can be damaged. The gap should be adjusted by only moving the ground electrode.

Another consideration that should be taken into account is the extent of any modifications that you may have made to the engine. As an example, when you raise compression or add forced induction (a turbo system, nitrous or supercharger kit) you must reduce the gap (about .004" for every 50 hp you add). However, when you add a high power ignition system (such as those offered by msd, crane, nology) you can open the gap from .002-.005".
^^^^^excellent advice located here!!!^^^^^


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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 12:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harkon View Post
17K is nothing for the stock plugs, but if you feel like changing them, then it won't do any harm. The OEM plugs are iridium and generally do not require one to gap them before installation. If you do gap them, be careful to avoid damaging the electrode. The iridium plug electrodes come to a very fine point and that is easily damage. If you get the plugs from Honda they will come correctly gapped.

This from NGK:

Do I need to set the gap when installing a new set of plugs?

A: Maybe. A spark plug part number might fit hundreds of different engines from many different manufacturers. Although the NGK factory will set the gap to a preselected setting, this may not be the right gap for your particular engine. The incorrect plug gap for your engine can contribute to a high rate of misfires, loss of power, plug fouling, poor fuel economy and accelerated plug wear. It is always best to check the gap against the manufacturer's specifications. If adjusting the gap on fine wire or precious metal plugs such as platinum or iridium, be very careful not to apply any pressure or prying force to the fine wire center electrode or insulator as they can be damaged. The gap should be adjusted by only moving the ground electrode.

Another consideration that should be taken into account is the extent of any modifications that you may have made to the engine. As an example, when you raise compression or add forced induction (a turbo system, nitrous or supercharger kit) you must reduce the gap (about .004" for every 50 hp you add). However, when you add a high power ignition system (such as those offered by MSD, Crane, Nology) you can open the gap from .002-.005".
The 1300 does not use the iridium plugs

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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 12:29 AM
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Well - it's still good advice. Just for a different audience


'07 VTX 1800F spec 3
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 05:38 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donnie Downer View Post
The 1300 doesn't come with iridium plugs. Service manual calls for 8k replacement.
Yep, indeed. I bought the bike from a previous owner who, for all intents, left the bike is stock. I've done 5,000 miles on this bike, of which 3,000 have been touring through desert-like environments with temperatures over +110 F. Bike never skipped a beat and kept on pulling like a freight train despite carrying two of us + 50 pounds of clothing + 50 to 70 lbs of accessories. Great touring bike. Brakes behaved perfectly, incidentally.

Bike will have Big Shots installed next week by mechanic so I may just as well ask them to change plugs while there. But I"m not sure of how knowledgeable my mechanic is concerning tips/tricks/tidbit stuff. If not, I'll do it myself as I've seen videos of it and it seems easy enough to do it myself. Want to learn as much as possible about my own bike to do my own wrenching.

Changing spark plugs is something I thought of just 2 days ago so I'm in the prospecting phase. Got the Clymer manual for reference.

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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 05:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alsavage View Post
The GAP is the distance between the electrode and the tang on the bottom of the plug. The proper setting is in your manual is on a sticker located on your bike mine is under the seat close to the battery .
Thank you. Would then the GAP be the lower area of the park plug in the picture, and the GAP the distance where the spark is created?

What's the correct gap for stock Honda NGK plugs? I've come across some posts that say that NGK Honda OEM plugs are gapped correctly.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Harkon View Post
17K is nothing for the stock plugs, but if you feel like changing them, then it won't do any harm. The OEM plugs are iridium and generally do not require one to gap them before installation. If you do gap them, be careful to avoid damaging the electrode. The iridium plug electrodes come to a very fine point and that is easily damage. If you get the plugs from Honda they will come correctly gapped.

This from NGK:

Do I need to set the gap when installing a new set of plugs?

A: Maybe. A spark plug part number might fit hundreds of different engines from many different manufacturers. Although the NGK factory will set the gap to a preselected setting, this may not be the right gap for your particular engine. The incorrect plug gap for your engine can contribute to a high rate of misfires, loss of power, plug fouling, poor fuel economy and accelerated plug wear. It is always best to check the gap against the manufacturer's specifications. If adjusting the gap on fine wire or precious metal plugs such as platinum or iridium, be very careful not to apply any pressure or prying force to the fine wire center electrode or insulator as they can be damaged. The gap should be adjusted by only moving the ground electrode.

Another consideration that should be taken into account is the extent of any modifications that you may have made to the engine. As an example, when you raise compression or add forced induction (a turbo system, nitrous or supercharger kit) you must reduce the gap (about .004" for every 50 hp you add). However, when you add a high power ignition system (such as those offered by MSD, Crane, Nology) you can open the gap from .002-.005".
As asked above, do I really need to do anything with the spark plugs' gap given that I'll be putting new Honda OEM (NGK) plugs which are not iridium? They're the regular version, not even the one for high temperatures.

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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 09:09 AM
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In addition to new plugs, it helps a bunch to run a bottle of fuel system cleaner through it once or twice a year.

2003 VTX 1800R3
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 10:51 AM
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Sorry guys. My bad, the VTX1300 does not use iridium plugs.

The gap is as follows;


NGK ships that plug gapped to 0.035" so they should be okay. You should check the gap before installing. Manual says torque to 10ft/lb


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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 11:30 AM
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I always gap my plugs to .31-as I ride, the gap will widen with use.

I keep "Canned Air", that you would use to clean a computer keyboard.
After I pull the plug wire off, I shoot some air around the plug so any dirt
will be removed and not wind up in the cylinder.

Once I remove the old plug, I insert the new one into the plug removal tool and gently screw it in.
Once I've tightend the new plug, I back it off about 1 turn & reseat it.

BTW, you can get the same plugs at an auto parts store for a lot less than the dealer will charge you.

All in all, a 15 minute job.
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 06:29 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harkon View Post
Sorry guys. My bad, the VTX1300 does not use iridium plugs.

The gap is as follows;


NGK ships that plug gapped to 0.035" so they should be okay. You should check the gap before installing. Manual says torque to 10ft/lb
Quote:
Originally Posted by RBS View Post
I always gap my plugs to .31-as I ride, the gap will widen with use.

I keep "Canned Air", that you would use to clean a computer keyboard.
After I pull the plug wire off, I shoot some air around the plug so any dirt
will be removed and not wind up in the cylinder.

Once I remove the old plug, I insert the new one into the plug removal tool and gently screw it in.
Once I've tightend the new plug, I back it off about 1 turn & reseat it.

BTW, you can get the same plugs at an auto parts store for a lot less than the dealer will charge you.

All in all, a 15 minute job.
Awesome advice, thank you!

By 0.31, you folks are talking of 0.31 inches correct? I'd have to convert the measurement to milimeters, or perhaps it says so already in my Clymer manual (don't have it here right now). What tool do you usually use to measure? Would a regular plastic ruler with milimeters marked be ok?

So I take it that the Honda NGK (OEM) spark plugs have the correct gap already? I'm talking of the regular ones as I'm planning on putting the ones from Honda. Here where I live I don't have as many options as many of you do as far as where to buy spark plugs physically, so I may just go with the ones from dealership.

One more thing, I've read somewhere about wetting spark plugs to ensure they're firing correctly. Does anybody know what I'm talking about? And, if so, do you know what it is used for? I'm only asking for curiosity's sake, not that I'm going to try this (wetting spark plugs). Just curious.

BTW: my Big Shots arrived yesterday and thankfully with no scratches or dents. They look really nice and they're light; I thought they'd be heavier. Good way to remove some weight from the bike as I've read stock pipes are very heavy.

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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude View Post
By 0.31, you folks are talking of 0.31 inches correct? I'd have to convert the measurement to milimeters, or perhaps it says so already in my Clymer manual (don't have it here right now). What tool do you usually use to measure? Would a regular plastic ruler with milimeters marked be ok?

So I take it that the Honda NGK (OEM) spark plugs have the correct gap already? I'm talking of the regular ones as I'm planning on putting the ones from Honda. Here where I live I don't have as many options as many of you do as far as where to buy spark plugs physically, so I may just go with the ones from dealership.

One more thing, I've read somewhere about wetting spark plugs to ensure they're firing correctly. Does anybody know what I'm talking about? And, if so, do you know what it is used for? I'm only asking for curiosity's sake, not that I'm going to try this (wetting spark plugs). Just curious.
Gap = .031" = 31 thousandths of an inch = 0.7874mm. A feeler gauge, a wire sparkplug gauge or circular sparkplug gauge with different thicknesses is used to check the gap. Wire gauge being the most accurate when the Ground electrode has erosion from the arcing.

Wetting sparkplugs??? Never heard of it.

Some sparkplugs are installed with dry threads, some people use anti-sieze, some use oil, some use grease.
Before sparkplugs were nickel plated sparkplugs in aluminum heads had a corrossion problem.
Over zealous use of aluminum or copper anti-sieze can foul new sparkplugs after running.
OEM sparkplugs are good for over 50k miles...

A link for information(not the sparkplug manufacturer) https://www.ngk.com/learning-center/...orque-settings. A part of the learning center.

Sparkplug gauges: https://www.google.com/search?q=spar...w=1366&bih=672
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File Type: png Honda VTX SM Sparkplug installation.png (180.4 KB, 8 views)
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Last edited by Hans&Feet; 02-17-2017 at 10:49 AM.
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