Snow blower trouble - VTXOA
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-07-2011, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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Snow blower trouble

I would have put this on the OTB but those knuckle heads would tell me Obama is causing all my mechaincal problems...

Any who, to keep this MC related The snow blower clars the driveway so I can get the bike out.

About 2 weeks ago in that crazy snow storm my Snow blower started running really ragged and would stall under load. I could start it up run it for 30 seconds and stall. Okay so I did all the stuff I know how to do on a small engine. I checked the oil, sat on a chair, scratched my head and said Awe Frick!!! Now I have to shovel.

I took it over to the dealer and right away he starts telling me the gas is stale... maybe but it was new in November of 2010 and I put some Seafoam in to stabilize the fuel. So he drains the gas rebuilds the carb.
I get it home and it runs like sh1t. better but not much.

I look at the spark plug hole and it has cob webs arond the bottom. So, I pull it and it was glistening with oil and it was covered with carbon. Would an oil fouled plug case the engine to run ragged?

Any way I guess I'll get a new plug and see what happens. Why would a factory trained rep not check the plug???? I'll never go back there. I can't wait till I got to Florida for 10 days


I just notice the threads on the cylinder head are soaked with oil
Here's a picture I stupidly wiped the oil before I took the pic.

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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-07-2011, 07:31 PM
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The short answer is yes. Don't store any small gas engine with gas in it. At the end of season drain whatever it is, then run it until it stalls. Gas is not what it used to be due to fewer additives ,purpose being to reduce emmissions.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-07-2011, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
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the plug is oil fouled, and there is oil moisture on top of the piston.

About 1 month ago I changed the oil, when I refilled I wasn't thinking and dumped in 1 whole qt, the proper fill is 19 ozs. So, the pan was over filled by 13 ozs. go ahead call me stupid

After filling and running it for about 20 minutes I realized that I put too much in. I looked at the manual after the fact. I drained the qt out then put in the proper amount of oil.

The overfill must have forced oil up into the combustion chamber.

I just put in a new plug and the machine ran real good for about 5 minutes then it stalled. I took out the new plug and it was covered with oil. I shined a light into the hole and there is oil in there

I think I need to get that oil out of the combustion chamber. Any ideas as to how to?

By the way snow blowers don't have air filters, I dont know why... no air filter

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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 12:06 AM
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I always thought the best way to burn off oil in the combustion chamber is to run the crap out of it with engine fogger.

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 12:30 AM
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Got an air compressor? If so just rotate the engine until the exhaust valve is open so you can blow air through the exhaust system via the spark plug hole. Then get yourself a spray bottle and some mineral spirits paint thinner. Spray it in the hole, blow it through, repeat. Do that about ten times and then blow a little WD40 in it to lube the cylinder walls on restart. Keep in mind, Mineral spirits is flammable. If that doesn't fix it,
you likely have a broken ring or other issue.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 01:29 AM
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If its just a normal 5-8hp flat head motor just yank the head off, like 6-7 bolts and your to it. Few bucks for a head gasket...

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by X'N View Post
If its just a normal 5-8hp flat head motor just yank the head off, like 6-7 bolts and your to it. Few bucks for a head gasket...
Sounds to me that the piston rings got hosed 'hydralic locked' due to too much oil. If you have a compression tester, I'd start there, I forget but anything over 100 psi rings a bell. After the heads removed there are like 4 bolts that hold the jug on if I remember right, or you'll have to slide the piston out the bottom... it's been ages since I broke one down so this is all from a 35-40yr memory.
If the enginge is a tecumceh (sp) just pull it and replace it w/ a Briggs & Stratton... those tecumech engines are junk IMO they always seem to break rods.

Good luck... better hurry... da snows a-commin'

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 08:51 AM
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You havent really said, is that thing smoking like crazy?
Over filling with oil wouldnt have hurt the rings, even a hydrolock wouldnt hurt the rings, it might snap a rod, or bust a piston, but not the rings.
If it is a regular 4 stroke engine, that you have previously over filled with oil, you will need to remove the cover where you check valve clearance, and get the oil out of the crankcase vent. It is on the side of the engine and has a hose running to the carburetor. It has a "filter" type media in it, and it will be saturated with oil, and the oil is getting "sucked" into the intake.

If the engine ran with the overfilled oil, and didnt seize, then the engine will be ok from that.
I dont suggest removing the head yet, as I think your trouble is elsewhere.
What little oil that would remain in the head area would burn off in under a minute. If there is oil arriving from somewhere else, that is what you have to find, and I believe you will find it to be the crankcase vent.


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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
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You havent really said, is that thing smoking like crazy?
Over filling with oil wouldnt have hurt the rings, even a hydrolock wouldnt hurt the rings, it might snap a rod, or bust a piston, but not the rings.
If it is a regular 4 stroke engine, that you have previously over filled with oil, you will need to remove the cover where you check valve clearance, and get the oil out of the crankcase vent. It is on the side of the engine and has a hose running to the carburetor. It has a "filter" type media in it, and it will be saturated with oil, and the oil is getting "sucked" into the intake.

If the engine ran with the overfilled oil, and didnt seize, then the engine will be ok from that.
I dont suggest removing the head yet, as I think your trouble is elsewhere.
What little oil that would remain in the head area would burn off in under a minute. If there is oil arriving from somewhere else, that is what you have to find, and I believe you will find it to be the crankcase vent.
Bingo. Pick up a second plug for later and and make sure the oil is back down to the right level. Then you can either keep changing/cleaning plugs till you burn off the excess oil or get rid of the oil by cleaning up the vent system. Don't forget to check the air filter IF it has one. Most OEM snowblower powerheads won't have an air filter but I don't want to assume yours doesn't have one like in the case of a replacement engine from a lawn mower, etc.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 08:59 AM
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Why would a factory trained rep not check the plug???? I'll never go back there.
Big O trained him. Sorry couldn't resist...
Anyway I think your best bet is to bring it to a small engine repair shop.
If it has electric start pull the plug and turn it over a few times. That should blow excess oil out the plug hole. Just my opinion

BTW is it a two stroke by any chance?

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