No power... - VTXOA
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-05-2016, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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No power...

OK here's my story. About a month ago I was riding when I took off hard from a stop (OK maybe I was racing a Camaro...maybe I wasn't) anyway, I am sure I didn't over-rev the engine but I had the motor cut out for a split second. It ran fine for the rest of the day but the next day while riding I would have an occasional loss of power, like the engine would lose power for a second with a loud backfire. This would not happen every time I rode, but sometimes would happen several times in a 10 minute period. I checked battery terminals and made sure everything was tight. Yesterday I went out to start it, it gave out an instant backfire and I lost all power. Nothing turns on when I turn the key on now. I charged it overnight but still nothing.


My question to you fine folks is this...where do I start looking for the problem?


I have a 2003 1800

2003 Red 1800R


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Last edited by WWJRide; 02-05-2016 at 07:59 PM.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-05-2016, 08:53 PM
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Did you do all the ground fixes that's posted on the stickies?

Good chance a ground wire to the icm went and lost ground. There is also a ground fix next to the computer next to the battery that needs fixed.

I would go through all the wiring. Since you are saying you lost all power to the bike is would check all your grounds even your ignition switch and kill switch.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-06-2016, 09:43 AM
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Did you check the main 30 amp Fuses?
Remove and clean the battery connections.
On the Step by Step 1800 section--the ground fix thread. DO IT!
Do you have a 12v test light(bulb type) or a test meter?

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-07-2016, 01:23 AM
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Do all of the above suggestions and
Check the P2 electrical connection for corrosion and the other connections. The P2 connector is under the left side cover and known to have corrosion inside the connector on a lot of 1800's. Also on the "How To" board.

Here is some info on it from "Bareasschoppers.com". Lots of good info there. Here is the link: http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/tech...ring/#comments

I just thought I’d throw this out there as a “service bulletin” for anyone interested. I took a bike in recently for work because the fuel pump would not prime. I suspected the pump was fine, everything else on the bike was in working order and the bike was intermittently shutting down while out on the road. 35k miles on the odometer, all the simple checks came back fine – relays in working order, kill switch functions, etc, etc, etc… What struck me as odd was that you should always get battery voltage (~12V) at the engine stop relay, even with the key off. I was reading battery voltage there with the key off, but when I turned the key on this voltage dropped to roughly 1.5V. I figured I had either a serious draw/short somewhere that wasn’t tripping fuses, or something like what I found…
Under the left side cover you have your main battery cable that feeds your 2 main 30A fuses. The wiring from those 2 main fuses then runs through a simple 2 pin plug before running over to the keyed ignition and so on. The plug looked almost perfect upon a cursory inspection, but when I went to separate the plug is when it got interesting:




This was the source of the problem on the bike and unfortunately it was caught too late to save the plug and some of the wiring. I had to replace several inches of wire and add a whole new plug. This was simply a matter of corrosion buildup on the connectors over time and could have been avoided with a little contact cleaner to clean up the contact areas. It won’t hurt to separate this plug, clean the contacts and then pack them with a little dielectric grease to prevent further corrosion (just don’t go overboard with the grease).

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Last edited by Jim Travis; 02-07-2016 at 01:27 AM.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-08-2016, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Travis View Post
Do all of the above suggestions and
Check the P2 electrical connection for corrosion and the other connections. The P2 connector is under the left side cover and known to have corrosion inside the connector on a lot of 1800's. Also on the "How To" board.
If the OPs problem is that connector, I, personally, would be tempted to just solder those wires together and heat seal the connections. If you ever need to separate those again, wire snips are pretty handy. In the years I owned my VTX, I never touched that connection. Seems you would be less likely to need it than one might think, and more problematical than it should be.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-10-2016, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Harkon View Post
If the OPs problem is that connector, I, personally, would be tempted to just solder those wires together and heat seal the connections. If you ever need to separate those again, wire snips are pretty handy. In the years I owned my VTX, I never touched that connection. Seems you would be less likely to need it than one might think, and more problematical than it should be.
And that connector either seems to be a problem (as shown in JTs post) or is fine. On my '02 with 102,000 miles it still looks brand new. But, I agree it should be checked and, if bad, either do as Harkon suggested or replace it with a Weatherpack.

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