Rear Brake Pedal Suddenly Stiff and No Braking Power - VTXOA
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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-16-2016, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Brake Pedal Suddenly Stiff and No Braking Power

OK, just took a trip to CO after having recently replaced seals in the rear caliper and bleeding the system. Also replaced rear rotor and one of the front ones, as well as pads all around. Cleaned and lubed caliper parts as well.

So everything seemed pretty good with my braking system throughout most of the trip, but then on maybe the last day the brake pedal started feeling weird. Like I'd push it and very little braking power would result. If I jam it really hard the bike dives forward as if I'm squeezing the front brake (probably because the front piston is activating and working well).

So I thought maybe there was some gunk in the system, blocking brake fluid from getting to the rear caliper pistons? Today I jacked the bike up, spun the rear wheel, and pushed the pedal. It did stop the wheel from spinning -- so at least something is happening with that caliper. Then I figured I would bleed the rear caliper some more, and then see if that helped. Did that and went for a test ride, and the problem is still there.

Any ideas about what might be causing this? All this brake stuff has been a learning experience along the way, but man, this is just one thing after another.
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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-16-2016, 10:35 PM
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When you bleed are you using a vac or peddle.

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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-16-2016, 11:43 PM
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1800 brake bleeding has a very specific procedure.

http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/brak...akes-vtx-1800/

2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 180,596 miles of smiles
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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-17-2016, 12:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie D View Post
When you bleed are you using a vac or peddle.
I used vacuum method first, and then followed up with pedal. Then today I only did pedal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans&Feet View Post
1800 brake bleeding has a very specific procedure.

http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/brak...akes-vtx-1800/
Thanks, I followed these steps the first time, then today just pumped the pedal to do the rear ones.
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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-17-2016, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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Is there a component that controls how much braking power goes to the front and rear wheels? Or is this just controlled by the number of caliper pistons connected to the brake pedal? Trying to figure out where to focus my efforts. Thanks!

Last edited by FeTT-X; 07-17-2016 at 09:46 AM.
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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-17-2016, 10:41 AM
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Rear brake has a proportioning valve to limit pressure to prevent brake from locking up wheel.
Attached Images
File Type: png 1800 brake system.png (111.1 KB, 20 views)
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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-17-2016, 12:05 PM
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Probably still some air in the system. Keep on bleeding.

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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-17-2016, 12:29 PM
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That valve really doesn't do a whole lot because when you go to after market lines, that part is taken out of the loop and the brakes work the same without it

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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-17-2016, 12:30 PM
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Is that rear rotor discolored at all? Sounds like the rear caliper got superheated and froze up. Does the wheel spin good now?

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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 07-18-2016, 03:04 AM
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"Also replaced rear rotor and one of the front ones"

??? Don't do that!
Sounds like you have braking power at the rear brake, so the problem (more braking power at the front, than required, when rear brake applied) can be at the front.


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