Power Commander and Vibration - VTXOA
  • 1 Post By Chicago-Spike
  • 1 Post By Harkon
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Woodstock GA
Posts: 3
Question Power Commander and Vibration

Hi All, This is my first post here. I hope i dont break any rules n such. I have an 02 VTX 1800 C2. Its my first cruiser. Always been a crotch rocket guy. Anyway i noticed two things that are bugging me. I have the V&H straight shots on the bike and took the baffles out. Sounds great. I tuned up the power commander V with the recommended map and then tried to use auto tune. My laptop was stolen so I'm using the C3 Mobil app on my GF's Tablet. The accept and clear trims are greyed out even tho auto tune is on. Am I doing something wrong?

Second is the bike between 55-56 has a horrible pulsing vibration. Hands free doesn't change anything. There is no wobble in the front wheel. Coasting or hard throttle makes the pulse go away. In a rear wheel truck or car i would almost immediately call this a drive shaft coupling issue. Is that the case here? IS this a lube or connection issue? This is my first shaft bike ever and I dont know how to service or check the shaft.

Pulse is like this brrrrrrrrrrmmmmm--------brrrrrrrrmmmmm---------brrrrrrmmmmm etc... that vibration continues and is faster or slower depending on engine RPMs. Seems to be worse in 5th gear than 4th but both are around 55-65 speeds.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 11:00 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: St Charles, IL.
Posts: 62,065
The pulse vibration you describe sounds just like a bad wheel bearing. Take the wheels off and check all wheel bearing.

As for the no baffles and turning up the PCV, there's no real need to turn it up. Just removing the baffles won't change it enough to matter. It WILL, however, drop your torque numbers a lot. These bikes need a little back pressure to make good torque.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 02:49 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Everett Wa 98204
Posts: 3,206
I will say it again.
All of the maps on line add way to much fuel we are talking 25-35 percent more than needed.
Put a zero map in and then bump up 2 percent throttle to 20 percent throttle 5-7 percent more fuel.
Rpm ranges 1000 to 2000.
I had dynotune done and my guy explained how to fine tune from there.
I get very good mpg 43-49 at 70-80 mph

05 1300S 6901 miles at start 114600 now
03 1800 R 64100 at start 80500 now dyno results 97.55 HP 110.22 torque
80550 E4 front
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 11:22 AM
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 1,410
Hmmm, autotune needs O2 sensors and the Autotune module. Do you have both of those installed? Otherwise that would explain why trim values would be greyed out. I can attest to the online maps being too rich for these bikes.

If the pulsing is the engine surging, do the ground fix. This is a must on this bike for it to run "right":
Don't try to short-cut this process, make sure the connections pointed out are paint free, clean and tight. Put some dielectric grease (pooky or maybe poookie) on the connections to keep moisture and oxidation at bay. Galvanic corrosion is a reality and it does affect these bikes, so servicing these connections can be a yearly thing if you are in a humid area.

If the problem persists, disconnect the PCV from the system and take it for a spin. If the problem persists, at least you know what the problem is not. Make sure the PCV is not using the "vampire" connector to get power, This is a common failure point for these installations. Make sure the PCV has a good solid connection to power. I soldered mine in place. Never had an issue.

Really the best way to get a solid map with these units is to put it on a dyno and have it tuned. Autotune (if installed) will fine tune a close tune, but it takes a long time for autotune to get it right from a bad tune. There are too many scenarios where the ECU runs open loop to be able to Autotune properly from a tune that is too far off.

If it's not the engine surging, but is drivetrain, then as Spike indicates, start looking at wheel bearings. The drive shaft on these are not too difficult to get out so if your wheel bearing check out okay, that might be the next thing if your bearings check out okay. You should probably pull the rear wheel to check those bearings anyway, so it's not a huge effort to get the final off and the drive shaft out to check the spines and u-joints. Make sure that on re-assembly, all splines get some moly paste (available at the Honda stealership). One tube will go a long way. Many will tell you that a good synthetic grease will work for this, but it is not as good as the moly paste the service manual calls for.

You can download a service manual for your bike from here;

I actually printed this out and put it in a binder on the shelf in the garage. I find a printed manual preferable to a PDF when in the middle of a project.

Best of luck, and welcome to the board. You will find the people here very helpful and incredibly knowledgeable regarding these bikes. Never be afraid to ask if you need help, we have all had those "DUH!" moments.
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