Overheating VTX 1300r - VTXOA
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-11-2010, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Overheating VTX 1300r

I have a 2005 VTX 1300 that the fan does not come on anymore. The relay switch has been replaced twice by the local Honda dealer and now it seems like it needs it again. The bike only has 9000 miles on it. I would like to just connect the fan up to a switch that I can use whenever necessary. Has anyone had any of these issues, and what did you do to solve the problem. Thanks, VTXChris1
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-11-2010, 08:19 PM
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If you're sure the fan isn't coming on, try scraping away the paint under the ground wire (at fan). This was a tsb from Honda.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-11-2010, 08:23 PM
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What is the coolant level by the radiator cap under the tank????
I have seen where the radiator would push coolant out to the reservoir but had a tiny air leak and would not suck any coolant back into the system. Overflow is not a valid check of coolant level if you have overheating problems.

You should check the ground connection on the upper left mounting bracket of the fan mount. Some were painted over and could have a poor connection. It should have a bare metal spot for a good ground..

Test the fan, turn on IGN switch, ground the pin of the switch to the metal shell of the switch, it should run. IF it does not, ground the pin of the switch to a nearby chassis ground. If it runs here than your fan motor ground is bad.

Pull the radiator shell forward at the bottom to get access to the fan switch.
Radiator and fan ground & switch in link below...
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/picture....ictureid=18968

2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back.
174,442 VTX miles...​On 11th frt tire, 15th rear tire
When you stop learning, you are dying.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-12-2010, 01:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTXChris1 View Post
I have a 2005 VTX 1300 that the fan does not come on anymore. The relay switch has been replaced twice by the local Honda dealer and now it seems like it needs it again. The bike only has 9000 miles on it. I would like to just connect the fan up to a switch that I can use whenever necessary. Has anyone had any of these issues, and what did you do to solve the problem. Thanks, VTXChris1
First off, do you know "For a fact" that the Honda dealer did indeed replace the relays OR did they just replace a blown fuse, this has been known to happen.
The fan circuit fuse is rated at 10 amps stock, the Honda fuses have been know to cause problems, I would replace the stock Honda fuse with a BUSS 15 amp. Now before everyone gets their panties in a knot about "upping" fuse amperage, I have done this or recommended this to ALL my 1300 clients, without a SINGLE issue, so far....no burnt fan motors and no melted wiring!

Here is what I know to be true, in Phx. AZ with ambient temps above 110* the stock 10 amp fuse cannot always handle the increase in amp load due to the intense heat being generated by the radiator, engine and hot pavement all in such close proximity. Some people have no problems while others go to a higher amp fuse and problem goes away..

To test your cooling fan motor, switch and other wiring is relatively easy. Start by installing a good 15 amp fuse, if you just can't bring yourself to do that, then at least get a good 10 amp fuse instead of the Honda one. Then remove the radiator shroud to gain easier access to the fan switch, which is located in the very bottom of the radiator.

Carefully pull the wire off the switch and touch it to the bikes frame with the ignition key and Run/Start switch ON! I use a jumper wire so I can reach the engine for a good ground. If the fan motor runs, it means all the other wiring, ECT switch, fan motor and fan motor ground are all good! Because all you have done is eliminate the switch from the circuit. All the switch does is complete the ground circuit when the proper temps are reached. The switch goes to ground (fan on) at 208*-216*F, the switch goes to open (fan off) at 199*-207*F.

Now, before you run off to buy a new switch, I would make SURE the radiator is full of coolant, pull the tank if you have to. Start the bike, go for a short ride, say 5-10 minutes, come back let the engine idle for at least 5 minutes. If the fan never comes on while it is idling, then you should go ahead and replace the fan switch.

What if when grounding the switch wire, the fan does not come on? Okay now you have to determine whether or not there is power to the motor or a problem in the wiring, which is unlikely, although as suggested in the aforementioned posts making sure the ground connection at the motor is a good idea.

You have to remove the left front cyl. head shroud and find the 2P connector and disconnect it, measure the voltage between the Black/blue (+) and Green (-) wire terminals, with the key on you should have battery voltage. If you have battery voltage, then the fan motor is bad, if there is NO voltage then there is an open in the Black/blue and Green wires.

The 1300's also have had some minor thermostat issues, I have replaced several of them that have stuck shut or partially shut. This is a crap shoot at best because the only accurate way to test a thermostat is to remove it and place it in a pan of boiling water with a thermometer and watch it...kinda like watching paint dry...

If the cooling fan is working and cycling on and off while idling or slow riding but the engine is still hot or the temp light comes, then I would change the thermostat.

The VTX cooling system is not "Bullet proof" but it works damn good most of the time even here in Phx. You can check the sensitivity of the fan switch by letting the engine idle and placing a floor fan in front of the radiator on its 'high' setting. The cooling fan will not come on while the floor fan is blowing through the radiator, but within a minute or two of removing the floor fan the cooling fan will kick on.

Buy a Tel-Tru temp gauge and install it in the oil dipstick hole, it will monitor engine oil temp which will be very close to coolant temp that is what I have in my bike.

There are other digital water temp gauges out there that are easy to install as well.

Taz

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-12-2010, 08:40 AM
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My cooling fan draws 3.9 amps, but startup was at 10 amps before it got up to speed. Maybe the reason the 10 amp fuse blows. I am not sure but I think later models had a fuse increased, possibly this one..

After 2005 cooling fan fuse went to 20 amps >>probably larger wire also.
Anyone done their VTX valve adjustment that can help?

2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back.
174,442 VTX miles...​On 11th frt tire, 15th rear tire
When you stop learning, you are dying.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-12-2010, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans&Feet View Post
My cooling fan draws 3.9 amps, but startup was at 10 amps before it got up to speed. Maybe the reason the 10 amp fuse blows. I am not sure but I think later models had a fuse increased, possibly this one..

After 2005 cooling fan fuse went to 20 amps >>probably larger wire also.
Anyone done their VTX valve adjustment that can help?
Taz

El-Zariba Shrine Temple Motorcycle Unit Motto: "We ride so kids can walk"
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