1300 Potential Oil Leak DANGER!! With Pictures - Page 2 - VTXOA
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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 03:16 PM
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I am assumimg this is the hose that runs from the back of the airbox to the top of the front jug? After doing the PAIR valve removal, it is the only air hose connected in the back if the airbox ... correct?




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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 03:26 PM
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I am assumimg this is the hose that runs from the back of the airbox to the top of the front jug? After doing the PAIR valve removal, it is the only air hose connected in the back if the airbox ... correct?


Yes. Only the breather hose connects to the backside of the airbox.
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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-10-2012, 02:28 PM
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Yeah, had that happen (twice!)(don't ask, please). Quite an interesting ride the first time. Side-ways like the old dirt days. Second time I was aware of it before the rear wheel got oil soaked. Thanks!!
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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-08-2012, 12:14 PM
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Just when you think your head is full of good info, you learn something else. I'll be checking mine since I am in the middle of re=jetting mine.....Thanks
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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 03:25 PM
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Would a replacement piece of 5/16" fuel line be more solid and less likely to kink than inserting the piece of copper tubing into the existing tube? Getting ready to do the PAIR removal and want to fix this for sure...........Thanks!
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post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 03:44 PM
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Would a replacement piece of 5/16" fuel line be more solid and less likely to kink than inserting the piece of copper tubing into the existing tube? Getting ready to do the PAIR removal and want to fix this for sure...........Thanks!
Don't readily see any advantage unless you have the 5/16 fuel line in hand. That would save you a trip to a hobby/hardware store.

That tubing I used was actually thin walled brass and rather stiff. It was any easy placement. Just cut off about a two inch piece, round off any sharp edge, and use the remaining longer piece to push it in the tube to the desired position. Then pull out the pusher part. Piece a' cake.

I'm sure your idea would work equally as well. Just make sure there are no sharp edges going in. Any sharp edge could tear the hose and not be the greatest.

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post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 05:49 PM
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HA.....I have neither the copper tubing nor the fuel line hose, so I will pickup the first I am closer to. Just seemed to me by looking at your pics that the existing hose appeared to be a pretty weak type of tubing....seeing where it had kinked looked like it was almost like a dense foam! At any rate, I will make sure that I do not put any kinks into whatever gets used and I greatly appreciate your help & guidance.
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post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 05:55 PM
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I have replaced my stock air box with a KURY hypercharger.Could this still be a problem with this set up,,and would the fix still be the same?
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post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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I have replaced my stock air box with a KURY hypercharger.Could this still be a problem with this set up,,and would the fix still be the same?
Yes it can still kink the crankcase vent hose as that shouldn't have moved with the Kury install. The vent hose should be attached to the back of the Hypercharger and the fix would be the same

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post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 06:22 PM
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Yes it can still kink the crankcase vent hose as that shouldn't have moved with the Kury install. The vent hose should be attached to the back of the Hypercharger and the fix would be the same
Thanks Spike,,I'll have to give it a look.Haven't noticed any oil on my floor though.Can never be too safe.
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