Question on Neutral Safety switch - Page 2 - VTXOA
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 01:21 PM
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It sounds like you have 3 seperate problems .
1. the clutch switch pin is not comming all the way out so you may need to take a little more off the clutch lever directly in line with the clutch pin when the clutch pulled in.
2. Lunging with clutch pulled when starting ( some do that when s first start when bike sets overnight, normal) but if it dose that when the bike is warm then you may need to adjust the clutch.
You should only have 3/8 to 3/4" of play at the end of the clutch lever at together end of the clutch lever on a stock bike and if you have glens clutch I make it 3/8 to 1/2 max.
3. Barely turning over ?. Was the bike warm and died and you emiediatly hit the start button , if so it is trying to go up against the compression stroke and and the time you take to place it in neutral gives it enough time to decompress a little so that is why it all of a sudden starts so the battery may be getting old and have one weak cell. But I have seen this happen with a brand new battery. Mine does it sometimes when it us hot and I stall it.


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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Forsaken View Post
Ok, so the scoot starts in neutral with the kickstand up or down. Will not start in gear with kickstand up and clutch lever pulled.
Ok Starts in neutral, shift into gear put kickstand down, stalls instantly. Neutral switch / kickstand switch working as intended...
Been up for 28 hours and getting cranky. Play with it more later. thinking on installing a jumper on clutch switch perhaps ..
Hopefully you got your rest. Excellent trouble shooting strategy.
Next. Clutch Switch. Try pushing the clutch switch wire connectors fully into the clutch switch. Sometimes they vibrate loose. (This seems likely) Try to start. If that doesn't work then pull the wires off of the clutch switch at your clutch lever. Then as you suggested put jumper on the clutch switch wires. PULL IN YOUR CLUTCH then try to start. If it starts then you know your wiring is fine from that point. Your trouble is limited to clutch switch or the attachment plugs. To test the clutch switch, take the wire connectors off and put a continuity meter across the switch terminals. Pull in clutch and see if the contacts close when lever is pulled in.

Hope this helps.

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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-10-2014, 02:21 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the help and ideas guys...
I did indeed get some rest ha. I passed out mid response..
I have a tech day today so I'll try some of those tests then. AND get them Damn neck bearings done

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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-04-2017, 07:57 PM
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I know this is an old thread but. ..... my problem is that the clutch lever is not contacting the switch. I just tested it by having a friend put a eyeglass screwdriver in between the lever and the switch and I started the bike in gear. So is there a way to adjust the switch or lever?

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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-04-2017, 11:20 PM
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So your friend pushed on the switch and that allowed you to start the bike in gear????
I am not clear on everything. . Was kickstand up or down??? It has to be UP...
Do you have aftermarket levers??
Some require some filing to make them work.
The pin on the switch rides on a cam, when lever pulled cam moved away from pin, switch closed.

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Last edited by Hans&Feet; 02-04-2017 at 11:24 PM.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-04-2017, 11:52 PM
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Well I have an 1800 I think the switch might be different. Didn't realize it was 1300 part of the forum as I searched Google for the issue and it brought me to this thread.

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