Right on. Many thanks for the replies thus far.
We have taken a detour to visit another city we were planning later in the trip. Reason for this is the Honda shop in this city has good reputation.
Mechanic is a young fella (my age), but he seemed surprisingly knowledgable of my bike. In 10 minutes, he had diagnosed the problems and had solutions.
Exhaust chrome cover rattle:
Turns out the chrome cover had broken at the weld joint. Didnt know this chrome cover was welded to the exhaust. I thought this chrome cover was held with braces and studs into the frame and not via welding? Exhaust is all stock.
Mechanic dismounted mufflers in an instant and I could now see all welded joints. Each muffler has some four welded joint/points into its respective exhaust pipe. Is this correct? Ive looked and looked at the OEM diagram but it all seems held by braces onto the frame?
He can reweld easily. I was already hearing some chatter from below me for the last 5000 miles. The fact the chrome cover finally broke at one of its welded joints would explain the slight chatter I was getting prior to its breaking of welded joint.
More reason to try again at ordering V&H big shots when Im back.
Indeed, fuse was out. Rest of installation is perfect as corraborated by mechanic.
Coincidence this is the second time that auxilliary lights go out at exactly 350 miles of continuous riding?
Mechanic will install bigger fuse, from 7 holes to 10 holes. Said it would help with overflowing. Opinions?
As said earlier, its only 4 led lights each drawing 7watts for a combined 28w, surely bike would handle this with ease?
One more thing. Learned my first POS mechanic had connected my Kuryakin 12v socket straight to battery. With keys off, you can still use the 12v socket. He did the same with leds originally, only for me to get very pissed off at him. Reinstalled lights to independent circuit so they would only switch on when I insert key and turn it on. The 12v socket was indeed working with keys off still. Could this overstress the battery or led lights perhaps?
Mechanic will reorder 12v socket connection to only be ON when keys are in and turned on.
Clutch replacement of dampeners and coils:
This was something I wanted to do when I come back, but will get it done now with this Honda shop to take advantage of situation.
Im replacing all clutch rubber dampeners and coils. I want to try aftermarket coils as described in this forum, but at 7 bucks per coil, its worth to me putting new clutch coils before going aftermarket.
Reason for this? Ive been getting a clunk noise from 1st to 2nd ever since I remember. Its when I rethrotte in 1st, then release clutch lever WITHOUT going into 2nd gear. Clunk noise comes from underneath me, left side.
Ive read that OEM coils especially get toasted fast. At current low mileage, Im willing to give the bike the luxury of getting new dampeners and coils. Who knows what is their current state anyway? Plenty of info on forum of coils toasting fast.
Should have bike in a couple of days, but peace of mind I could see the issue from the lower exaust's chrome cover. Lotsa thousand miles on this trip and was fearing the exhaust would fall off with the nasty loud noise it was making now that the welded joint broke.
Will update when bike is back. More opinions and comments are appreciated. Thank you!
Tsukayu VTX hard bags & Tour trunk, Saddlemen touring seat with backrest, NC custom windshield, Risers, LED lightbar, Engine guard LED lights, Cobra fatty guard, Rear engine guards, Fender rail guard, Leather tank bib, Passenger floorboards, 12v socket, ISO grips WITH bar weights, Engine chrome, Triple tree cover, Shaft cover, Fenders chrome, Progressive forks & 12.5 inch shocks, All Balls mod, Chrome clock, Adjustable trunk rack