URGENT: Got 2 issues while touring - Loud exhaust noise and LEDs have gone out - VTXOA
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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Exclamation URGENT: Got 2 issues while touring - Loud exhaust noise and LEDs have gone out

JHello gentlemen (and any ladies),

We've started our cross country tour and have covered around 800 miles, of which 600 were yesterday. The vtx 1300 is doing very well as expected with all the cargo we are carrying.

I'm in the hotel, so I'll keep this short. I have developed 2 issues and need help.

Issue 1: metal cover on lower exhaust making nasty loud noise

1) the chrome cover for the lower exhaust is making a very loud vibrating noise. Its very loud, can be heard by pedestrians. Its a metal on metal noise, like a sharp growl. I'm almost positive it is the chrome cover for the lower exhaust as when I hit it softly with fist it vibrates badly. The whole exhaust is stock Honda OEM for a Vtx 1300 Spokes.

I'm thinking a rubber must have fell (between exhaust cover and the exhaust) or something needs tightening. The exhaust was removed and put back 3 weeks ago. Never had this issue. Cant upload video, but I have read others have had similar issues in the past.

What could it be and what can I use to temporarily fix this until I get any replacements?


Issue 2: LED lights have gone out suddenly

2) I have 4 auxilliary lights and they went out yesterday at 500 miles. All 4 lights are LEDs and each one only draws 7w for a total of 28w. Two LED lights are driving lights in lightbar and two other LED lights are one on each side of crash bar.

All 4 LED lights go through the SAME independent circuit. The way it is set up: 4 led lights to fuse --> switch button (on/off manual toggle) --> battery

When the 4 LED lights went out, the central driving light (independent from 4 led lights) continued working fine.

I had this same issue last year with halogen lights. It was a blown fuse. What's your opinion? Fuse problem again and why? Only drawing 28w with 4 LEDs vs 70w halogen auxilliary lights I had last year when I had the fuse issue (halogen auxilliary lights also went out but central light continued working, albeit it was very dim).

I am taking the bike to a custom motorcycle shop. Trying to grab ahold a Honda certified mechanic, but this custom bikes shop is all I have for now. The exhaust issue is urgent as the noise it is making is really loud.

Many thanks.

Tsukayu VTX hard bags & Tour trunk, Saddlemen touring seat with backrest, NC custom windshield, Risers, LED lightbar, Engine guard LED lights, Cobra fatty guard, Rear engine guards, Fender rail guard, Leather tank bib, Passenger floorboards, 12v socket, ISO grips WITH bar weights, Engine chrome, Triple tree cover, Shaft cover, Fenders chrome, Progressive forks & 12.5 inch shocks, All Balls mod, Chrome clock, Adjustable trunk rack

Last edited by EuroDude; 05-15-2017 at 10:25 AM.
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 12:13 PM
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I surmise you are using the same wiring from the halogen aux lights.
Probably a short to ground somewhere.
A harder than normal bump, sometimes extra weight brings the bare spot in the insulation and ground close together.
Some Honda lights had shorts, I believe it was at the bottom on the hollow bolt.

2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 180,596 miles of smiles
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 12:23 PM
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I can't speak on the exhaust but as for the LED's the wattage isn't important it is the current which is the I=V/R so if you have 1 ohm of resistant and 12 volts that is a 12amp draw. You could add a 5 ohm resistor into the circuit and cut the draw to 2.4 amps or a 2 ohm and be at 6 amps. I would get a 100watt resitor there, it will be able to handle the heat and you can get them so you can screw mount them.

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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 12:40 PM
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IIRC, the stock heat shields wedge up against a tab at the exhaust flange and there is a small rubber grommet between the tab and shield. You may be able to loosen the shield and slide it tighter against the flange. Worst case, grab a chunk of fiberglass insulation and shove it between the shield and pipe. McGuiver it with a hose clamp if necessary. It's not really going to hurt anything.
As for the wiring, check the fuse and bare spots in the wiring. Check that the swirch didn't burn up. In the future, I would use a relay for the driving lights. Power should go from battery, to a fuse, to the relay and then the lights. Pick a key on power wire such as the rear running light wire for the switched power to trigger the relay. It's a much more reliable setup.
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies thus far.

Turns out it's the chrome cover that covers the whole end of the lower exhaust and that is welded to the exhaust (the exhaust is a grey metal color and the cover I'm talking of is metal chrome).

The mechanic who took a quick look at it said that the welding of the chrome cover to the exhaust had broken and he said he could weld it on the spot. It's not the chrome cover as you see on the upper exhaust; it's a chrome cover that covers the lower exhaust from the middle to the end (tip). It actually looks like it goes over the other chrome cover on the same lower exhaust that covers the first half of the exhaust.

I hope Im describng the chrome cover to give you folks an idea of which one it is.

As for the LEDs, he said it could be the fuse. He wasnt sure of the wiring and said he would open the headlight, which Im not fond as I managed to kill all noises from the headlight by using the foam-rubber padding that goes inside the nacelle (headlight dampener from Mike Buras, great guy). The mechanic said he'd do the least amount of fiddling around with the bits and pieces, but now that I killed all headlight noises Id hate for them to come back.

To gain access to the battery and the fuse from the LEDs' independent circuit, do you have to remove the tank? I'm trying to contact a Honda dealership to do any messing around with parts by the book.

Lastly, as far as I'm aware, the 4 LEDs are using a relay via the On/Off button (switch) on the handlebar. I can switch on and off the 4 led lights, independent of the headlight (central light). I'm actually using the handlebar switch from the previous National Cycle halogen driving lights I had (the ones that went out last year).

I dont know if the switch retains the same cabling for the current LEDs as it had with the halogen lights. I'm using LEDs from Big Bike Parts and it came with no switch.

One theory I have is tbe vibration of the bike. Most riding was done at 75mph for hours. It's interesting that these led lights went out after 500 miles of continunous riding. That's exactly the same distance the halogen lighs went out last year! I had already ridden 1000 miles with these led lights with not a single issue, but the longest distance I had done in a single day was 180 miles, so maybe the current setup gives out from too much continuous vibration?

Apologies for the spelling mistakes (on an Ipad).

Many thanks. I really appreciate the help.

Tsukayu VTX hard bags & Tour trunk, Saddlemen touring seat with backrest, NC custom windshield, Risers, LED lightbar, Engine guard LED lights, Cobra fatty guard, Rear engine guards, Fender rail guard, Leather tank bib, Passenger floorboards, 12v socket, ISO grips WITH bar weights, Engine chrome, Triple tree cover, Shaft cover, Fenders chrome, Progressive forks & 12.5 inch shocks, All Balls mod, Chrome clock, Adjustable trunk rack
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 02:01 PM
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Did a fuse blow???
Wire break from too much movement/vibration?
Leds would be least likely to have failed if they were made for a 12v system.
Two 4watt led MR 16 bulbs 30°beam have been in service since 2012.
14v x .3a = 4.2 watts x two .6 amps and I use a resistor to dim them.

http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/showthre...orld-light-mod

2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 180,596 miles of smiles

Last edited by Hans&Feet; 05-15-2017 at 02:34 PM.
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 08:00 PM
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I would just run new hot wire to switch fused and a ground then just turn off manual.
Repair correct when trip is over.

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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 09:50 PM
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The battery is accessed by removing the seat. It's between the frame right under your tush.

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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 06:54 AM Thread Starter
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Right on. Many thanks for the replies thus far.

We have taken a detour to visit another city we were planning later in the trip. Reason for this is the Honda shop in this city has good reputation.

Mechanic is a young fella (my age), but he seemed surprisingly knowledgable of my bike. In 10 minutes, he had diagnosed the problems and had solutions.



Exhaust chrome cover rattle:

Turns out the chrome cover had broken at the weld joint. Didnt know this chrome cover was welded to the exhaust. I thought this chrome cover was held with braces and studs into the frame and not via welding? Exhaust is all stock.

Mechanic dismounted mufflers in an instant and I could now see all welded joints. Each muffler has some four welded joint/points into its respective exhaust pipe. Is this correct? Ive looked and looked at the OEM diagram but it all seems held by braces onto the frame?

He can reweld easily. I was already hearing some chatter from below me for the last 5000 miles. The fact the chrome cover finally broke at one of its welded joints would explain the slight chatter I was getting prior to its breaking of welded joint.

More reason to try again at ordering V&H big shots when Im back.



LEDs out:

Indeed, fuse was out. Rest of installation is perfect as corraborated by mechanic.

Coincidence this is the second time that auxilliary lights go out at exactly 350 miles of continuous riding?

Mechanic will install bigger fuse, from 7 holes to 10 holes. Said it would help with overflowing. Opinions?

As said earlier, its only 4 led lights each drawing 7watts for a combined 28w, surely bike would handle this with ease?

One more thing. Learned my first POS mechanic had connected my Kuryakin 12v socket straight to battery. With keys off, you can still use the 12v socket. He did the same with leds originally, only for me to get very pissed off at him. Reinstalled lights to independent circuit so they would only switch on when I insert key and turn it on. The 12v socket was indeed working with keys off still. Could this overstress the battery or led lights perhaps?

Mechanic will reorder 12v socket connection to only be ON when keys are in and turned on.



Clutch replacement of dampeners and coils:

This was something I wanted to do when I come back, but will get it done now with this Honda shop to take advantage of situation.

Im replacing all clutch rubber dampeners and coils. I want to try aftermarket coils as described in this forum, but at 7 bucks per coil, its worth to me putting new clutch coils before going aftermarket.

Reason for this? Ive been getting a clunk noise from 1st to 2nd ever since I remember. Its when I rethrotte in 1st, then release clutch lever WITHOUT going into 2nd gear. Clunk noise comes from underneath me, left side.

Ive read that OEM coils especially get toasted fast. At current low mileage, Im willing to give the bike the luxury of getting new dampeners and coils. Who knows what is their current state anyway? Plenty of info on forum of coils toasting fast.

Should have bike in a couple of days, but peace of mind I could see the issue from the lower exaust's chrome cover. Lotsa thousand miles on this trip and was fearing the exhaust would fall off with the nasty loud noise it was making now that the welded joint broke.

Will update when bike is back. More opinions and comments are appreciated. Thank you!

Tsukayu VTX hard bags & Tour trunk, Saddlemen touring seat with backrest, NC custom windshield, Risers, LED lightbar, Engine guard LED lights, Cobra fatty guard, Rear engine guards, Fender rail guard, Leather tank bib, Passenger floorboards, 12v socket, ISO grips WITH bar weights, Engine chrome, Triple tree cover, Shaft cover, Fenders chrome, Progressive forks & 12.5 inch shocks, All Balls mod, Chrome clock, Adjustable trunk rack
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 07:06 AM Thread Starter
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Here is a picture of the problematic exhaust chrome cover. It is the one on the lower exhaust pipe, to the left.

Posting this pic for reference of which chrome cover it is. Dont mind the dirty covers with splashed bugs; in this trip, Ive happily eaten all june bugs I could have eaten in a lifetime in only 1000 miles.
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Tsukayu VTX hard bags & Tour trunk, Saddlemen touring seat with backrest, NC custom windshield, Risers, LED lightbar, Engine guard LED lights, Cobra fatty guard, Rear engine guards, Fender rail guard, Leather tank bib, Passenger floorboards, 12v socket, ISO grips WITH bar weights, Engine chrome, Triple tree cover, Shaft cover, Fenders chrome, Progressive forks & 12.5 inch shocks, All Balls mod, Chrome clock, Adjustable trunk rack
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