1300 Valve Adjustment

[Poison]

Pick a nice spot and get the bike up on a stand. This is optional, you can do it in the driveway just
as well, but I prefer to have the bike straight and the added height makes it easier on the old
back. Engine must be stone cold!!! You cannot properly check / adjust the valves on a warm bike.
http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data/500/715Stand.jpg

Secure the forks so they don’t swing around and bash your tank when you remove it. I used some
ratcheting tie downs (not too tight!) but bungees or rope would work as well.
http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data/500/5046Forks.jpg

Unhook the green speedo connections behind the right front plug cover. Remove the gas line and
vacuum hose from the tank valve. Remove the seat and tank bolt, then lift the tank and remove
the vent hose under the bottom right corner. Lift the tank up, then slide it back and off. Set the tank
safely out of the way on 2 pieces of 2 x 4 so the valve won’t be mashed on the floor.
http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data/500/5046Speedo.jpg

You will have to remove the PAIR valve bracket and hose to slide it out of the way. Remove the timing
hole cover and timing hole cap to view the index marks
http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data/500/5046Naked.jpg

The timing cap is located beneath the shiny plasti-chrome timing cover. Remove it
http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data/500/5046Timing_cap.jpg

I found it easier to remove the airbox. Remove the three Philips and the 10mm bolt. The throttle screw
knob pops off by slipping it backwards. There are two hoses hidden behind the box that slip right off.
http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data/500/5046Airbox.jpg

Remove the valve covers. To adjust the front, rotate the crankshaft clockwise and align the “FT”
mark on the drive with the index mark. Remove one plug from each cylinder to make it easier to
turn the engine. Make sure you are on the compression stroke by grabbing the rocker arms
and wiggling them. If they don’t move, you will need to rotate the crank one full turn. Valves are
adjusted with a 10 mm offset box and a 4 mm open end. Intake is .006 ± .001 and Exhaust is
.012 ± .001 INCHES. If a valve is out of spec, when you loosen it, add a drop or two of engine oil
to the adjusting threads and seating surface.
http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data/500/5046both_front.jpg

Here is a shot with the “FT” mark aligned with the index to find Top Dead Center on the front cylinder.
Anywhere between the two marks is just fine.
http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data/500/5046Front_Index.jpg

Align the index mark to the “RT” on the drive to do the rear. Same specs.
http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data/500/5046both_rear.jpg

Here is a shot with the “RT” mark aligned with the index to find Top Dead Center on the rear cylinder.
Remember to be sure you are on the compression stroke by grabbing the rocker arm and wiggling it.
http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data ... _Index.jpg (http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data/500/5046Rear_Index.jpg)

When you button everything back up, clean off the o-rings and check for nicks or tears. If they are i
n poor shape, they’ll need to be replaced (my originals are still on). Lubricate all the o-rings with
clean engine oil. The exhaust and timing cap threads get a coating of grease.

Torque Values:

(4) Intake cover bolts – 6.5 lbs/ft

(1) Timing hole cap - 13 lbs/ft

(6) Tappet Locknut - 16 lbs/ft

(6) Socket bolts for plasi-chrome cover – 7 lbs/ft

(4) Spark plugs – 10 lbs/ft (Use a small amount of non-copper based anti seize on the threads)

(1) 10mm air cleaner mounting bolt – 7 lbs/ft

(3) Phillips air cleaner screws – 2.9 lbs/ft

Pictured are the tools I used – a 10mm offset box, feeler gauges, and a 4 mm open end. I had to shorten
up the .012 so it wouldn’t hit the radiator while doing the front.
http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data/500/5046Tools.jpg

I used these offest gauges from Sears....still had to trim to fit. Be sure to remove any burr from trimming them.:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product. ... alty+Tools (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00940802000&subcat=Automotive+Specialty+Tools)

Notes:

Remove a spark plug from each cylinder to make it (much) easier to turn that timing bolt.

Once you adjust a cylinder - rotate the timing bolt around for a few cycles - align your mark
(compression stroke!!) and check them again. You really want to be sure you have it right - your mind will rest easier.

I like to feel a moderate drag on the correct feeler gauge. I know I got it right if both of the following is true:
(1) – the next size up does NOT fit (or fits very tightly) and (2) - the next size down slides easily.
With a little practice, you’ll be able to get them just right.

Take your time - it is not a difficult job but it does require patience. I think the hardest part was
trimming the gauges to get them to fit right and figuring the right angle to get them in there.
VERY IMPORTANT to slide it straight in there and not touch the heads. If it's flexing in at an angle you'll
get a bad read. Be warned - space is tight. Rear intake is especially tight.

BE ON THE CORRECT (COMPRESSION) STROKE!!!!
You will know this - you'll be able to feel the rockers wiggling around.

DO NOT DROP YOUR TOOLS INSIDE THE HEAD!!!! If you feel like you're the type that bad things
happen to, tie a string to those little tools.

Finally - after adjustment - your going to hear the valves - this is normal. But you know everything is
O.K. since you double checked everything. Now aren't you glad you did that?

[toasted_3111979]

Poison, small first time valve adjuster here. What exactly do you mean by "trimming" the gauges? Are you talking about trimming the "sides" of the gauges to fit in the hole. If that's what your talking about, I'm thinking of using a dremel tool with a fine grinder bit, yeah, no?

- -Miker

Cutting them shorter in length so you can fit it in the space.:thumbup:

[HamHanded]

Thank you Poison,

Three of my intake valves were too tight on my 12K mile VTX-S and this write-up was the best. Your advice to take my time was both true and comforting. I also discovered a trick that helped me hold the feeler gauges. I've read other blogs that attached them to hacksaw blades etc. But, if you want to go back and forth between the next highest and next lower gauge, you would need to mount 6 feeler gauges. You can grip any size guage in the handle made for "Exacto" knifes and it is reusable. It holds them straight, angled or side-ways which is great for the exhaust valve on the front cylinder. Together with your write-up, this was a piece of cake. Thanks again.

[preacher3927]

This may be a dumb question but I'll ask anyway. I'm about to hit the 8,000 mile mark and don't feel confident enough to do the valve job but I was going to tackle changing the oil. (baby steps:grin:) Here's the question: Can I change the oil before taking the bike to the dealer for the valve job or does the oil have to be changed at the same time as the valve job?

[Chicago-Spike]

Guys, this is the "How To" section and is intended to be just helpful How to threads. Please ask your questions on either the 1300 board or the 1800 Tech board. Read the sticky threads on ALL the boards before posting;
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205902
Thanks http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/images/smilies/icon_cool.gif

[Concho]

Thank you Poison,

Three of my intake valves were too tight on my 12K mile VTX-S and this write-up was the best. Your advice to take my time was both true and comforting. I also discovered a trick that helped me hold the feeler gauges. I've read other blogs that attached them to hacksaw blades etc. But, if you want to go back and forth between the next highest and next lower gauge, you would need to mount 6 feeler gauges. You can grip any size guage in the handle made for "Exacto" knifes and it is reusable. It holds them straight, angled or side-ways which is great for the exhaust valve on the front cylinder. Together with your write-up, this was a piece of cake. Thanks again.

These will work as well to hold your feeler gauges.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b9/Hemostats.jpg/200px-Hemostats.jpg

[Red Chicky]

I just checked this on how to do a valve adjustment......I'm a girl and I'm not gonna do it!!!!!!!!!:yikes:

[Stindi]

Removing the timing cap...
I was a little confused on this. It is the large bolt head in the middle (17mm). It is quite tight, but once you remove it, with the right angle, you can see the timing marks.

Secondly, if you have floorboards, you might want to loosen the right one. It makes it easier to get to the bottom two bolts on the plasti cover.

C. USE A STRING on ANYTHING that can fall into the engine. That 4mm wrench it's almost a must.

4. When removing one plug from each cylinder... if you remove the front right and rear left, you can easily turn the engine and place a finger over the open hole to feel when you are coming up on the compression stroke. Even with your finger covering the spark plug hole, it becomes hard to turn. Now that you know you are on the right stroke, line up your marks for which ever cylinder you are on.

Finally, have a flashlight handy. It makes it easier to see your timing marks and the gaps between the adjustment screws and the valve stems.

While I only got the front intakes done on my first attempt, Poison's directions are right on. I thank him for his time and effort.

Hope this helps someone...
Steve

[VTX1800NR]

:idea: When I had my 1300R I would remove the plastic fins to make the job simple. Only 2 bolts each cylinder.

http://members.tripod.com/rwc10/pfins1.jpg
:mrgreen:
http://members.tripod.com/rwc10/pfins2.jpg
:mrgreen:
http://members.tripod.com/rwc10/pfins3.jpg
nojoke

[JGROOT]

Hey, When adjusting valves, I have found it a good idea to put a zip-tie through the box end of the 4mm wrench and do not trim it off. This way, if you drop the wrench into the cylinder head, it won't fall too far into the head and there is a nice piece of nylon to grab so you can pull it back out. I found this out the hard way. That little wrench gets slippery when it has oil on it.

[dtberry]

Hi guys,
I have a question about these intake cover bolts. Is 11 lbs./ft. the proper torque spec. for these bolts? This seems a bit high to me....but what do I know...lol. I am not very experienced with bikes. Are these bolts made out of aluminum? Maybe they are made softer so you don't pull the threads out of the valve cover. This is what I want to be sure I don't do.
Please help me out here guys so I can put my mind at ease.
Thanks a bunch!!!

[RedG35]

BE ON THE CORRECT (COMPRESSION) STROKE!!!!
You will know this - you'll be able to feel the rockers wiggling around.


Please elaborate... if I set the crank on the correct TDC setting (FT/RT) aren't I good to go? Wiggling rockers = good or bad?
How long did the job take you?

[dtberry]

This is how you know that you are at TDC. You want to make sure you are at TDC on the compression stroke. Pull a plug from each cylinder and you will feel your finger being pushed off the hole on the compression stroke. Line up at FT on the compression stroke. You wan the rockers to wiggle on the front ones here. Do your check/adjustment. Next you want to only rotate the crank 308 degrees to RT. You can put a finger over the spark plug hole on the rear cylinder and you will feel the compression pushing your finger off the hole. Once you are on RT and you feel the rear rockers wiggle you are at TDC on the rear cylinder. Do your check/adjustment here now. After you are done rotate the crank and few times and check the front and rear again. CAUTION!!!! As this was posted before...If you pass FT or RT (and it is easy to do) DO NOT rotate the crank counter clockwise. Rather, go around two full turns again until you line FT or RT up.
How long??? It took me awhile because I double and triple checked the meaurements. You will need to trim feelers as Poison has posted earlier. The job isn't difficult at all...just don't be in a hurry. Your first one may take 4 or 5 hours cause you have to get your gauges to fit. The next time you do it it will be a breeze.
Take a look at Poison's posts on VTXOA. He did a great job of putting together a step by step with great photos. Also look at the photos of the tools he used. I used the exact same ones and didn't have a problem.
You can do it just take your time. Hey you may get lucky and they may all be within spec.
Good luck:thumbup:

[RedG35]

excellent post, thank you!

[RedG35]

what size wrench do I need to remove the exhaust valve adjusting cap? I didnt have a wrench big enough to get it off and my sockets are too large to fit in the small area. :tools:

[dtberry]

Yes you are correct. You will not get a socket in there. Space is too tight. Go out and buy yourself a 24mm combination wrench and use the box end to loosen and tighten. Make sure the wrench is fully seated against the face of the cap because they may be tight coming off. You don't want to slip off of the hex and damage the cap or hit the bike with the wrench or smash your knuckles...ouch. When torquing the cap back on with a new oring (I think it is a 35X3 oring) don't go crazy. The manual recommends 11ft./lbs. But because you can't get a socket and torque wrench in there; just a bit passed snug is good.

[dtberry]

All my adjustments were tight except for the rear exhaust. I only had to back the adjustment screw out approx. 1/8 or a turn to achieve .006" on the intakes (middle 4) and .012" on the exhaust. My rear exhaust was fine. When adjusting the adjusters....back off the lock nut with the 10mm offset box end wrench turn your screw in til you have slight drag on the feeler. Now place the 10mm offset back on the locking nut and hold the top of the adjuster screw with the 4mm wrench. Now snug the locking screw down to the rocker arm (this will help keep from having the ajuster screw turn on you when you torque the locking nut with your torque wrench. You need to torque all lock nuts!!! Now do you double and triple checks.
Remember when your bike was new and you could hear that clatter coming from the motor....you are going to hear that again so don't be alarmed. You have just made it easier for the valves to move to fully close and things are a little looser now...just like they should be.

[cal_105]

What are the torque values on the lock nuts?

[dtberry]

16 lbs./ft. multiply by 12 and that gives you 192 lbs./in.

[rkeene]

Is the correct open end wrench 4 mm it just seems to small , as I was looking at my 6mm and it just seems so tiny, just Thought maybe it was typed in wrong, sorry, I know you have already done a adjustment, also any tips on how to adjust the valves with the wrenchs, any help is greatly appreciatied rkeene:doorag:

[Chicago-Spike]

Is the correct open end wrench 4 mm it just seems to small , as I was looking at my 6mm and it just seems so tiny, just Thought maybe it was typed in wrong, sorry, I know you have already done a adjustment, also any tips on how to adjust the valves with the wrenchs, any help is greatly appreciatied rkeene:doorag:
Yes, it is a 4mm wrench and how many more tips other than all the above tips? ;)

[dtberry]

Go to Sears and buy the ignition wrench set in the small plastic pouch. The 4mm is in there. Or get a 4mm tappet wrench from somewhere. Look at Poisons posts. He has all the info and tool list there. Trust us all, it is a 4mm wrench not a 6mm. It isn't a hard job but if you are too uncomfortable doing it yourself...find someone to go through it with you. I live in Ontario Canada and would help out if you are close. There may be someone close by that can give you a hand.

[cal_105]

I have read so many valve adjusting instructions that I am now confused. When a cylinder is on the TDC compression stroke, can you adjust both the intake and exhaust valve on this mark, or are there separate marks for the intake and exhaust valve for the same cylinder?

[discovery7]

If you look again at the timing marks, there are only 2, front and rear. When you're aligned up with the front marks, then go ahead and adjust all front cylinder valves. When the rear is aligned, adjust all rear cylinder valves.:tools:

[rkeene]

Thanks to everyone that replyed to my uninformed mind, always good to learn something new. And just wanted to comfirm, that there are still good people in this crazy world, just happy to know afew. Down here in central Florida, wrenching to save money and learn how this bike works. rkeene:tools:

[rkeene]

I don't have one and was wondering do I really need it for the valve adjustment, I have been out looking to price it , they are not cheap for the good ones, just another thing I thought about , Any info is greatly appreciated . rkeene:tools:

[Poison]

What are the torque values on the lock nuts?
16 lbs/ft
I added to the how-to, and also corrected the intake cover torque.

I really don't know of many people that torque much of that stuff though - space is way to tight up under there.

[armyrecruiter]

Yes, it is a 4mm wrench and how many more tips other than all the above tips? ;)

Why is a Harley owner still creeping around on the Honda Board and taking shots at owners that are obviously hesitant but want to learn to do their own wrenching? Isn't there a Harley board or 12 or 25 that you could be lurking and posting? I'm sorry if this comes out spiteful, but really, LaMont does a bang up job of taking care of the Honda VTX forum.... and enforcing the general rules of what to post where.... bottom line to me is that if someone wants info, they should get the info....

[Chicago-Spike]

Why is a Harley owner still creeping around on the Honda Board and taking shots at owners that are obviously hesitant but want to learn to do their own wrenching? Isn't there a Harley board or 12 or 25 that you could be lurking and posting? I'm sorry if this comes out spiteful, but really, LaMont does a bang up job of taking care of the Honda VTX forum.... and enforcing the general rules of what to post where.... bottom line to me is that if someone wants info, they should get the info....
I don't know, why can't Honda people take jokes especially when there is a winking smiley ;)
All that was meant was "What else are you looking for" so I could point him in the right direction. The poster that I made that comment too had no problems with it, why should you?

[ronnie7holt]

Thanks. This info helped a lot. We are ready to go again.

[starider]

Thankyou for the time it took to put this up for us. My stealership wants $380 to change the oil and adjust the valves. He wont be seeing my money.

[Sepiroth]

Am I wrong?

Ok the way I understand it is you have to be on the compression stroke. ok cool.

Now compression stroke on FT. Ok I'm there. I adjust my valves.

Now do I just turn the crank to RT and adjust the rear cyl valves or do I have to go another revolution to get the RT on the compression stroke?

[dtberry]

If you are on the compression stroke on FT (front cylinder) make your adjustment. Then just turn the crank 308 degrees to RT. This is the compression stroke on the rear cylinder. Don't go a full turn or you won't be on the compression stroke. Take a plug out of both cylinders and put a finger over the plug hole while you are turning the crank. You will feel you finger being pushed off the hole from the compression.
Double and triple check your work so there won't be any question later. Then you will feel better after she is all back together. TAKE YOUR TIME....Don't be in a hurry! It is not a hard job...I have done my bike and a couple of friend's bikes also.
You are on the right track. If you pass FT or RT DON'T turn the crank counterclockwise!!!! Go around two turns again and start all over again. Once you are on TDC on each cylinder it is really easy to pass the FT and RT marks because the piston will come down off the compression stroke really easy....makes sense...right?:thumbup:

[Fasteddy]

Is this the same procedure for the 1800 ?

[Sepiroth]

Ok great. Yea, makes perfect sense. I havent tore into it yet. I just assumed that FT and RT timing marks were mere millimeters off. Not almost a whole revolution.

[rkeene]

Hey all,

Usd poisons valve check/adjustment everything went smooth, bike sounded fine will get better the more I do it. Thanks for the excellent information, and all the good people on this site. rkeene:bowdown::bowdown:

[Tank4300]

Great display .. Thanks

[LocoSooner]

Just wanted to extend another thanks for taking the time to show some of us how to keep the X running good.

[VTXretro1300]

Quick question......

Do you have to drain the oil when you take the timing cover off?

Also...the exhaust valve is under the circular cap, correct?

[Poison]

Quick question......

Do you have to drain the oil when you take the timing cover off?

Also...the exhaust valve is under the circular cap, correct?
No and yes

[VTXretro1300]

Thanks Poison.

[fjr/vtx1300s]

Thankyou for the time it took to put this up for us. My stealership wants $380 to change the oil and adjust the valves. He wont be seeing my money.


Sorry yours is a stealership. Mine are not. Screw up once and what will it cost you? I have great wrenches at two dealerships I frequent with other bikes as well as the VTX. No way can I do work as well as them. For the day it would take, from start to clean up, parts and not to say if you need shims and don't have them, I can go out and make enough to pay someone to do it right the first time.
so with all the confusion and questions in just this one thread makes me think I do not think I am capable and could not do this properly. If the dealer screws up they pay for it. If I screw up it cost me. And while the VTX is in service I will let them do the fluid swaps. Engine oil, drive oil, brake fluid and coolant. One shot all done. JMHO

[donut]

Some stealers are stealers!!! A few years ago a friend of mine took his bike in to have the valves adjusted. We knew that there were some stealers that said they did the job but didn't. So when he took his in he marked one of the bolts with a piece of string or tape on it and there was know way you could ever do the job without removing that bolt. Well we went to pick the bike up and and the string was still there with a $150. bill !!!. There was a very interesting discussion in their office! I ended up doing the job for him for free (friend). he was so happy that i ended up with few beers and a nice dinner.

Doug

[XRiderChuck]

Great write up Poison! Did mine for the first time today and it went well.... no probs at all. Idles smoother, runs cooler, pulls harder...:thumbup:

[donut]

Poison did do a great job. I did mine a couple years ago by Poison"s instructions and i took my time and everything was easy with his instructions.
The first time i was nervous about it and now i am ready to do it again in the spring, no problem no worries, thanks Poison.

Doug

[j pate]

Just asking how can you torque the valves if using a boxed end wrench
do you go by fill , don't mean to be picking thanks j pate:tools:

[Poison]

Just asking how can you torque the valves if using a boxed end wrench
do you go by fill , don't mean to be picking thanks j pate:tools:
Most just go by feel. I don't torque them - the numbers are there for your reference.

[robdawg13]

Just did my valves this week using this write up. Thanks Poison - I have never adjusted valves before on any engine, and thanks to this site I felt completely comfortable tackling this job. I discovered the most important sentence in here is...

"VERY IMPORTANT to slide it straight in there and not touch the heads. If it's flexing in at an angle you'll
get a bad read. Be warned - space is tight."

I thought I had the rear exhaust adjusted correctly and when checking it for the third or fourth (or hundredth) time, I noticed the feeler gauge rubbing on the bottom of the opening for the adjuster cap. Slid the gauge in a little farther and it was way too loose.

Bolted everything back up this morning and fired the bike up. No problems at all and knowing I saved over $200 sure does make it sound good...