1800 General Section; Tank Removal, Maint. Schedule, Cali. Model differences

[Chicago-Spike]

I broke the bottom screw on my Airbox

I think this must happen to everybody including me. I used a flat screwdriver to keep outward pressure on the airbox and screw while unscrewing the fastener. Once out re-set the screw holder with JB weld or some other high strength glue. I also used a small hose clamp to tighten up the screw holder. Once dry, holds like a champ. Leave the clamp on for good measure. Remember these screws only require 2.5 lbs torque to re-install so be gentle. Mike
Last update: 2004-06-25 09:42
Author: Mike Bareass

[Chicago-Spike]

Differences between CA model and 49-state models


Want a 49-stater? Just want to know the difference between the 49 stater and the CA only model?
I’ve been wanting to do this for some time as there has been a lot of talk on the differences between the CA model bike and the 49st bike the following information is from Hondas Parts catalog for the VTX 1800C’02. GREEN= CALIFORNIA MODEL
YELLOW= 49 STATER

The Intake Manifold #17110-MCH-700 is for the CA
Intake Manifold #17110-MCH-000 is a 49st
49st Intake Manifold booster cap #16215-MCH-000
49st Intake Manifold tube clip #95002-02070.
Bracket, PCV #50328-MCH-000 for the 49st
Bracket, PCV #50328-MCH-770 for the CA bike. The CA bracket has two threaded mount holes for the Purge Control Solenoid to mount on.
Purge Control Solenoid, Valve Assy.# 36162-P2M-A01 CA only.
The Wire Harness #32100-MCH-672 is a 49st It has no receiving plugs for the o2 sensor or the Purge Control Solenoid.
Wire Harness #32100-MCH-772 is for the CA.
PMG-FI unit (ECU) is a #38770-MCH-671 for a 49st
PMG-FI (ECU) #38770-MCH-772 for the CA model.
Frame #50100-MCH-000 is 49st
Frame #50100-MCH-770 is a CA and has the two EVAP canister mounting tabs under the back of the frame.
The Exhaust rear pipe #18420-MCH-670 is for the 49st
Exhaust rear pipe #18420-MCH-000 is CA and has the bung hole for the o2 sensor to screw in.
Muffler #18305-MCH-670 is for the 49st
Muffler #18305-MHC-770 is a CA with a Three stage catalytic converter inside.
Four vacuum hoses that are all #95005-45001 only on the 49st and are –10m and–20m at the end of the part number and are for fuel tank venting.
Oxygen Sensor # 36531-MCJ-611 CA only.
The last set of parts numbers are all the EVAP Canister parts for the CA bike only.

Fuel Tube Joint #16958-GJ6-000
Vacuum tube (a three way connector) #17201-MG9-000
Canister #17410-MCH-771
(PCS-Canister) Tube#17412-MCH-770
Tube Joint #19126-KM1-010
Headlight case setting rubber #61304-415-000 (Their the rubber inserts for the EVAP canister to sit against as shock absorbers).
Collar #90501-425-000 (inserts for the headlight case setting rubbers).
Bulk Vacuum Hose #95005-35001-20m
Bulk Vacuum Hose #95005-80001-20m
Bulk Vacuum Hose #95005-45001-10m & 20m.
Now as for the VTX Retro I’m not sure, but the one thing would be two o2 sensors and the plugs in the wire Harness. Author: BIGLRY Out:-)

[Chicago-Spike]

Picture Guide to Removing the Fuel Tank

Ok, this is an easy one, but still daunts a lot of new wrenches. But let’s face it, removing the tank makes many jobs vastly easier to perform. Once you’ve done it a time or two, you won’t think twice about it – it’s that easy. So here we go, lets get that big tub off the scoot.


Note: You should probably siphon all the gas out of your gas tank. Some tanks seem to empty themselves when the fuel line is disconnected, some don't. But no good reason to take a chance on a big fuel spill. You can also use a good hose clamp to clamp the fuel line as well. But siphoning always works.
Note2: This procedure doesn't apply to some of the later model bikes, which have a fuel pump located in front of the back tire. If you have one of these, be prepared to curse Honda for not including a pet**** on that fuel line you'll have to disconnect from the tank. You *will* spill a bunch of gas from it.


First things first, remove the seat. Most of you can do this, so we'll skip the instructions here, and get right too it. Once the seat is off, we need to remove the tank bolt, that actually secures the tank to the frame. Here’s a picture of it:


http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b181/Chicago-Spike/Spikes%20custom%20Bars/image002.jpg?t=1238163769

Ok, now lets remove the console. Using a hex wrench, remove the three lowermost bolts holding on the console.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b181/Chicago-Spike/Spikes%20custom%20Bars/image003.jpg?t=1238163807

Now, pull the console forward off the little tab at the front, and make sure you don’t lose that rubber cover thingy. Let the console hang along the side of the bike, but be sure not to bang it around and scratch it.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b181/Chicago-Spike/Spikes%20custom%20Bars/image004.jpg?t=1238163831

Ok, now that the bolt is removed, lets disconnect the hoses and schtuff. First, drape a fluffy towel over the front of your tank. That way, if the bars flop over suddenly, you won’t get a nasty ding in your tank.


Now, grasp the tank at the front and the back, and pull it back (towards the seat) and slightly up. The tank will slide off the big rubber grommets it rests on in the front. Rest the front of the tank on the frame. Now, pick up the rear of the tank, and disconnect the 3P electrical connector for the fuel pump.


http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b181/Chicago-Spike/Spikes%20custom%20Bars/image005.jpg?t=1238163862

Ok, now for the hoses. First, pull off the small overflow hose at the side of the tank. Now, the bitch of the whole thing – we need to remove the hose at the front of the tank, that’s secured there with a small pinch-style hose clamp. Hold the tank up (a helper makes it easier), and use a pair of pliers to open the hose clamp, and push it forward on the hose.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b181/Chicago-Spike/Spikes%20custom%20Bars/image006.jpg?t=1238163888

Now, push the hose up off the fitting. It’s cramped, and a pain in the butt the first time or too. I find it really helps, to swear like crazy during this step.


Got it? Whew, almost done. Now lets disconnect the fuel line. Use a 17mm socket, and remove the big acorn nut, being very careful not to lose or booger up those compression washers. But before you do this, wad a bunch of towels up under the nut, to catch the fuel that’s going to run out – you’ll dump about 3 or 4 tablespoons (you did siphon out the tank, right?), so be ready to blot it up.


http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b181/Chicago-Spike/Spikes%20custom%20Bars/image007.jpg?t=1238163914

Got it? Good deal. Now, pick up the tank, and set it aside, making sure not to put it on something that will damage the paint. That’s it man, you just removed the fuel tank.

To re-assemble, just reverse the order you used to remove it. One note: Don’t torque the tank bolt down to Honda’s specifications. If you do, you’ll twist the small end of the tank bolt off every time. Just torque it down a little snug, but don’t overdo it.
Good luck!
Tapper

Last update: 2007-03-13 18:39
Author: Tapper

[Chicago-Spike]

A Better Maintenance Schedule

I do VTX work in the DFW area, and after several years, and a lot of bikes, along with actively participating in this forum with a lot of other folks, I've come up with a modified maintenance schedule for the VTX1800 that I suggest for all the bikes I maintain. I thought I'd share it with you, along with some of the reasoning behind it. If you can see something I've forgotten, or think something should be done differently, then please speak up. Help me make this a better guide.

Please note, you're perfectly safe using the Honda schedule. This just represents a schedule that I believe offers improvements, and saves a little money too. All mileages can be considered "neighborhood" numbers.

Daily

1. Spot-check fasteners
2. Check tire air pressure.
3. Eyeball the bike, looking for anything out of place.
4. Eyeball coolant level.

Monthly

1. Clean K&N air filter if you have one. You've got a re-usuable filter, and your bike will perform better, and get better mioleage when the filter is clean. Don't be lazy.

At every tire change

1. Inspect wheel bearings
2. Inspect flange bearing in rear wheel
3. Ensure moly paste was used to lubricate the drive splines
4. New tube for spoked tires
5. Verify pinch bolt torque
6. Verify axle bolt torque
7. Verify correct adjustment of front wheel spacing

0 miles

1. Buy a service manual. You'll need it, even if you aren't planning to do your own wrenching. The manual is an invaluable aid to keeping your bike running right.
2. Spot-check fasteners
3. Check tire air pressure.
4. Check oil level.
5. Check headlight aim

Ride your bike vigorously. Don't baby it. Get the rpms up. Don't roll down the road with the mill barely turning rpms.

600 Miles

1. Change crankcase oil. Use a cheap dino oil, it won't be in there very long. No need to change filter yet. This is just a flush change, designed to get the wear metals out of the motor before they can accelerate wear.
2. Change final drive oil. Use a good 75w-90 synthetic like Amsoil or Mobil One.
3. Bleed and flush all brake systems and the clutch, using Valvoline synpower. This helps get rid of particulates left in lines from manufacturing, bleeds any air out of system from factory fill and shipping, and gets a good fluid in there to start with.
4. Adjust throttle play - seldom comes correct from factory.
5. Synchronize throttle body - always good to get things where they need to be.
6. Check and adjust steering stem - usually right from factory, but always a good idea to confirm this. Note - Honda sets the stem tension much lighter than the manual suggests, on the order of one pound, using the tension check suggested.
7. Check shock bushings - these sometimes get crushed during factory install.
8. Check and/or set the valve lash - Honda is notorious for sending out bikes with the valve lash on the snug side. You want your rocker spindles to develop a wear pattern based on the arc created by the correct valve lash. Setting this early, will go a long way towards developing valves which seldom come out of spec.
9. Correctly set idle - 900-950rpm. Don't be lured into setting your idle too low to make your bike "lope" like a Harley. You have a double pin crank. If your bike lopes, it just means it's trying to stall.
10. Fasteners - Using the service manual, and a good calibrated torque wrench, verify as many fasteners as you can get to. Loosen and re-tighten your axle bolts. Loosen and re-tighten your fork pinch bolts. Do not test the caliper mounting bolts = they have locktite on them that you'll break the bond on if you test them. Be thorough here. Use a little silicone grease on fasteners that show rust to waterproof them.

1200 - 1500 miles

1. Change oil to Amsoil 10w-40. We're basically flushing all the early wear metal out of the motor this way.
2. Change oil filter.

Every 4000 miles

1. Check spark plugs. Clean them if dirty. Inspect electrode gap.
2. Do another comprehensive fastener check.
3. Inspect brake pads
4. Inspect tire wear
5. Give the bike a comprehensive eyeball check, looking for anything out of whack. Be thorough.
6. (Optional) Replace oil filter. Now start bike, let idle one minute, then stop motor and top off crankcase oil.
7. Check rear shock bushings

Every 8,000 miles

1. All 4,000 mile items
2. Inspect and/or check valve lash
3. Replace crankcase oil with new Amsoil 10w40
4. Replace oil filter.
5. Replace final drive oil
6. Set throttle body sync
7. Bleed and flush both brake systems and the clutch with valvoline synpower brake fluid.
8. Check and adjust steering stem - look for bad bearings, incorrect stem tension, etc.
9. Adjust throttle play
10. Set the idle
11. Check headlight aim
12. Fasteners - Using the service manual, and a good calibrated torque wrench, verify as many fasteners as you can get to. Loosen and re-tighten your axle bolts. Loosen and re-tighten your fork pinch bolts. Do not test the caliper mounting bolts = they have locktite on them that you'll break the bond on if you test them. Be thorough here. Use a little silicone grease on fasteners that show rust to waterproof them.


Every two years

1. Replace coolant
2. Replace battery
3. Replace headlight bulb
4. Replace turn indicator bulbs
5. Send an oil sample off to Blackstone Labs. Pay attention to the wear metals, since this gives you an indication of wear inside your motor where you can't see it.
Last update: 2006-01-08 16:18
Author: Tapper

[Chicago-Spike]

How to Break-In your new VTX engine

This is a great article by Pat McGivern, aka MOTOMAN, that gives us a How-To best break in the engines on your new VTX. It also works on your cars and trucks. I got permission from Pat to post this link here,
Thanks Pat,
Chicago-Spike

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm (http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm)

Last update: 2007-04-05 20:51
Author: Larry McKenna

[VTX1800NR]

This is how I empty my fuel tank on 1800 bikes with external fuel pumps.
http://rwc10.tripod.com/pump-tank.jpg
Pulling the rear supply hose from the tank without getting most of the gas out can give you a gasoline bath and be dangerous. Some people have used quick disconnects spliced into the rear feeder hose with success and some have had them fail from vibration from what I have read on the California board. I am allergic to fire:yikes:.
Siphoning can work however it usually does not get enough out to prevent spillage. I use a high volume electric fuel pump from J.C. Whitney. It empties the tank in about 5 minutes since it is not pumping against any resistance. If you see no fuel being pumped through the clear tubing, just move or rotate the suction hose against the lower inside of the left rear of the tank and more fuel will get pumped. Make sure the bike is on its side stand.
The pump has no diaphragms or gears. If power is removed while pumping, this pump will allow gas to siphon thru if the container you are pumping to is lower than the fuel in the tank. Never leave it unattended. Make sure you have a 6-gallon receiver container or a couple containers with more capacity than the bike tank holds.
Here is a photo of my tank pump:
http://members.tripod.com/rwc10/pump.jpg
This is the 12-volt electric fuel pump I used:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Search?catalogId=10101&storeId=10101&sku=zx738898a
http://www.jcwhitney.com/wcsstore/jcwhitney/images/imagecache/I_738898_SW_1.gif
(cheaper slower pumps work just as well if you have time to spare)
The fuel filter on the intake side is optional but protects the pump and is only a couple of dollars.
You will also need about 8 feet of ¼” I.D. clear vinyl tubing with 2 clamps both available at Home Depot in the plumbing section. I connected the tubing to the pump using two brass 1/8” N.P.T. x ¼” barbed tubing connectors. You could substitute 5/16 “ tubing with the appropriate connectors.
As you can see in the photo I bent a welding rod to hang the pump from my left hand grip (a coat hangar will work). I put a plastic sandwich bag over my ignition switch to protect it and place a paper towel on it to catch the small amount of gas that will drip when the rear tank hose is pulled off the tank after pumping is completed.
I turn the power off and on using a 2-way flat electrical connector like this:
http://www.hitchesforless.com/electrical/20022.gif
They can be found at auto supply stores and also at Radio Shack.
Be sure to make all wire connections well insulated and locate connectors or a switch if you like far enough away from gas fumes when powering the pump up or down. I use a 12-volt power supply to power the pump however the bike battery can also be the power source. Use common sense and don’t make sparks near gasoline. You and you alone are responsible if you are injured or cause any damage using my tank emptying method. Remember that gasoline can be more potent than dynamite.
Work safenojoke.

[Chicago-Spike]

Thanks for this idea and write-up!! Excellent idea :thumbup: