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Chicago-Spike
11-18-2008, 11:30 AM
How does ECU work?

This question of whether the ECU "learns" is a bit misleading. It helps, to understand how an embedded device like an ECU works, or to have a programming background I guess, but I'll take a shot at explaining.
The short answer is, no. The stock ECU doesn't learn. Everything it knows, it knew the moment it rolled off the assembly line. Having looked at the circuit PC board, it doesn't have enough memory or a large enough cpu to be calculating injector pulses (IP) by running equations, and this would be pretty silly anyway, since from Honda's point of view - the VTX always has the same equipment, and same basic response to to operating conditions.
If you've ever taken numerical methods at the college level, you know what kind of iterative calculations it would take to calculate a series based on the number of variables involved. The sensors are used to determine the operating conditions of the motor. For example, Barometric pressure + intake air temperature can determine air density, and rather than calculating this, it can be found much much faster by using a two dimensional array as a lookup table. Manifold pressure at value Z on the stock intake manifold + air intake = Y amount of airflow. (a one dimensional array.) So, to find the total air value, we might do this (in simplified computer gibberish): Air = Density[IATVoltage, BARVoltage] * Flow[MAPVoltage] or, more correctly: Airfactor[Density[IATVoltage, BARVoltage] * Flow[MAPVoltage]] You'll note, that the voltages just become array indexes. So what the ECU is, could be considered a big lookup table machine. By this, I mean it always runs the same tables, but sensor inputs can and do change which factors are used to get the new injector pulse width. Honda engineers determine these factors by testing - but bear in mind, the goals they have might be a little different than your goals, (like emissions requirements), and they always use the stock pipes and stock airbox.
Consider, that a new airbox is going to flow more air at a given manifold pressure, than the stock airbox. Here's another thing - remember carburated motors? No computer, and everything was driven on a single operator input - the throttle position. So guess what? FI motors still calculate fuel pulse widths based on throttle position too. So, if we set all the sensor inputs to standard pressure and temperature, we can set up a fuel table to deliver hondas desired Fuel/air ratio that's going to look an awful lot like a power commander table - Throttle Position versus RPM. Call this the "base Table". Again, this is nothing more than a two-dimensional array of values stored in prom memory on the ECU. IP = SumOfSensorChanges + BaseTableValue[ThrottlePosition,RPM] Remember, the "SumofSensorChanges" ends up just being an array lookup value itself.
So, blah blah. Here's the thing - this works, but only if the sensors are calibrated correctly, and only if your bike's response to conditions is the same as the bikes Honda tested with. Since most likely, there are some differences between your bike and the test bike, and since your sensors are probably reading a trifle differently, Honda has to introduce wiggle room into the whole thing, to be sure it doesn't send you to la-la land. And that wiggle room translates to lost horsepower. Likewise, if you've put a new exhaust or airbox on, the lookup tables are now wrong a bit, and that also translates to lost horsepower. Lastly, Honda had to keep your exhaust from being too stinky, and sometimes that translates to lost horsepower too. An engine makes horsepower based on the amount of air (oxygen) that it processes. When it "pulls" harder, it requires a corresponding amount of increase in airflow to the motor to keep up. The MAP sensor measures this, by directly measuring the pressure in the intake manifolds. When the engine turns faster, it produces a corresponding vaccuum in the manifold, and indeed all internal combustion engines operate on this principle. A carbuerated motor gets fuel, because the vaccuum in the intake manifold draws fuel in through the carb in direct proportion to the air being pulled into the manifold by the vaccuum.
The ECU in your X, determines how long a "pulse" (electrical current which turns on the fuel injector - an injector flows a given rate per minute, thus in so many milliseconds, it flows X amount of fuel) by first determining the "load" (air demand) using several sensors. The BAR sensor reads atmospheric pressure. The MAP sensor reads relative pressure within the intake manifold. The BAR (parometric pressure sensor) value - the MAP value (always less than 1 BAR (as in unit of measure) in a naturally aspirated engine) = pressure drop (vacuum) in the manifold. The IAT (intake air temperature) and the BAR reading can be used to determine air density. The TPS (throttle position sensor) and the BAR sensor can be used to determine air flow (since the manifold volume and flow rate is known). The TPS sensor tells you how far the throttle plates are opened (and thus orifice size to determine flow rate) Thus, the ECU can measure directly the amount of oxygen flowing into the engine at any given moment in time. This is the mysterious load.
The ECU then says "I'm programmed to produce this air/fuel ratio, so at the current load, in order to make that, I need to squirt that amount of fuel - and turns on the injectors long enough to produce it. The ECU actually does this using lookup tables stored in its memory. In fact, 98% of what the ECU does, is pulling numbers out of lookup tables based on sensor readings. At any given time, the ECU is running three primary loops, based on three primary sensors - the fuel demand loop (MAP sensor), the valve timing loop (cam position sensor), and the ignition advance loop (ignition pulse genrator AKA the crank position sensor). It does a number of smaller things, but those are the big ones. Each of these loops plays a role in each of the other loops. The remaining sensors are largely used as modifiers to the main sensor values.

Last update: 2006-01-08 16:24
Author: Tapper

Chicago-Spike
11-18-2008, 11:31 AM
What octane Gas should I use?

How to “Get Gas” without leaving skidmarks

by: Brian "Tapper" Davis

One of the most frequently misunderstood issues among the VTX community, and indeed among all folks concerned with performance and appropriate care and feeding of their motors is the subject of gasoline, and more specifically the mysterious octane number. Oil companies have gone a long way to foster this mystery, by marketing gasoline with higher octane numbers as “premium”, and inferring that the golden road to more performance, cleaner widgets, and hot chicks, is to spend the extra dough on the higher-octane stuff. Well, sorry to be the one to break this to you, but you’ve been had. So lets take a quick look at octane, and then get to the big point – what should you run in your VTX?

Now the truth is, octane is actually a chemical, which comprises an important part of the chemical soup that is gasoline. But here’s the thing – octane the chemical has absolutely nothing to do, with “octane” the pump measurement. So what is it?

In a nutshell, the octane rating of a fuel is a measure of its ability to resist detonation, ping, pre-ignition, or knock. The number we most often associate with octane is the "Anti-Knock Index", or the "Pump Octane" number. This rating is an average of two different measurements - the Motor Octane Number, and the Research Octane Number. Both of these measurements are taken using a special single cylinder test engine that has a variable compression ratio. The RON measures the knock resistance of a fuel during low RPM, light load conditions, while the MON is representative of high-speed, high load operation. As a result the MON will always be lower than the RON, but for our purposes the Research Octane Number is more significant because it more closely represents the way a low rpm V-twin motor is operated. So “Octane”, has absolutely nothing to do with the energy content or quality of gasoline. It’s just a measurement of when the gas will make a motor of a specific configuration begin to knock.

Lets take a moment here to define a couple of things important to understanding this discussion.

Knocking (also called pinking or pinging) in internal combustion engines occurs when fuel in the cylinder is ignited by the firing of the spark plug but burns too quickly, combusting completely before the optimum moment during the compression phase of the four-stroke cycle. The resulting shockwave collides with the rising piston, creating a characteristic metallic "pinging" sound. The fuel is normally ignited slightly before the point of maximum compression (the spark advance) to allow a small time for the flame front of the burning fuel to expand throughout the mixture, so that maximum pressure occurs at the point of maximum compression. It is only when this flame front arrives too early, for whatever reason, that the knocking effect occurs. If allowed to persist, knocking can cause vibration and damage to engine parts.

Knocking is a different phenomenon from pre-ignition, which occurs when the air-fuel mixture in the cylinder ignites before the spark plug fires. Pre-ignition is caused by heat buildup in engine components or overheating of the air-fuel mixture during compression, and cannot be prevented by delaying spark plug firing. As such, if pre-ignition is allowed to continue for any length of time, severe engine damage can result. Pre-ignition is bad bad stuff, and changing the octane of the gas won’t affect it.

Generally speaking, a higher-octane gasoline prevents knocking by either slowing the burn rate of the gas, or by increasing the difficulty of lighting it up. The idea here is to prevent the gas from burning too fast, and causing knocking. So the octane number has no bearing on the quality of the gas. But it does have a bearing, on how well your motor can utilize the gas and extract the maximum energy from it. However, getting too far into details of this would require a pretty damn big article, so I’m going to generalize a bit, for the sake of brevity here.

First, consider that gas burns faster under pressure. The more pressure, the faster it burns. Therefore, a high compression motor will burn gas faster than a low compression motor. The VTX is a relatively low compression motor folks. So, we don’t really want a slow burning gas.

Second, the burn timing in your motor is hugely important when considering how well the motor can develop power from a given amount of gas, and this timing is determined by the ECU, which can manipulate the spark advance of your engine. Normally, the timing in your VTX is pretty close to 8 degrees before top dead center, but the ECU can and does retard or advance the spark timing to respond to certain running conditions of the motor, like coolant temperature, rate of increase of Rpm’s, or any of a number of other conditions. But none of these parameters are accessible (yet) by you, the itinerant tuner. So, you have no way to manipulate the spark to match the burn speed of your gas. Since the VTX is designed by the factory to use 87 octane gas, if you run something different, the only possible way you have to tune your motor to use a different octane, is to manipulate the compression ratio of your pistons.

So here’s the thing: Unless you have changed the pistons in your VTX, a higher octane gas will have the effect of de-tuning the motor, and therefore reduce its performance. Now, the amount will probably be minimal, but it’s there. That’s the meat and potatoes guys, but there are a few more things we can infer. First, at higher altitude your compression will be slightly lower, and therefore you can get away with running a slightly lower octane gas. In fact, in areas like Denver, where the altitude is up around 5,000 feet, you’ll find gas stations selling 85 octane gas. But you’ll never find a gas station in Texas selling 85 octane. Since the altitude is much lower, the octane rating needs to be a little higher, so regular gas is typically 87 octane.

Second, gasoline quality is dependant on a lot of things, but octane isn’t one of them. In fact, there is almost no real difference in “premium gas” other than the octane number. Federal law dictates the amount and type of most of the additives in gas. So by definition, they’re all pretty similar in nature.

Except.

Gasoline is formulated according to climate in the US, and gasoline refiners use 6 basic formulations based on the expected temperature in the area they are expected to be sold in. Gas companies vary this by season, and by location (it also tends to be colder in Denver than in Dallas). So that gas you bought in Dallas might not give you great performance in Denver.

These days, unleaded oxygenated gas is far superior in performance and energy characteristics as compared to the old leaded gas of yesteryear. We generally have very good gasoline available to us at the pump.

Lastly, just remember this simple rule of thumb: You should always use the octane rating recommended by the manufacturer for your motor. But, if you are riding in a climate significantly different than sea-level at 80 degrees Fahrenheit, then use the lowest octane gas you can find that will not cause your motor to knock.

One more thing – many cars these days have anti-knock sensors built into them (the VTX doesn’t), and those sensors are used by the ECU to manipulate the spark timing. So, if you run an octane significantly different from the manufacturers recommended octane number, the ECU will detune the motor in real time, and you won’t get any knocking – but you absolutely will lose performance. Use the recommended gas. If you’ve been running a higher octane gas, and spending the dough to do it, then I hope this little article will save you some bucks, and in the process gain you some performance. Good luck!
Last update: 2005-06-22 15:43
Author: Tapper

Chicago-Spike
11-18-2008, 11:32 AM
How do I set the Accelerator Pump function on PC3 usb?

Note: This only works with the USB version of the Power Commander. It won't work with the older serial versions at all.

The accelerator pump function is enabled using a small utilty downloaded from the Power Commnder website located here: http://www.powercommander.com/accelpump.shtml

Once installed, it can be turned on and off through the PC3usb software that you use to set up the tables with.

Dynojet suggests the following settings:
Some Racers have selected the following: 75% Sensitivity 20% Fuel Increase 15 Engine Revolutions
Some Street Riders have selected: 90% Sensitivity 15% Fuel Increase 20 Engine Revolutions

In general, we've found that neither of these settings work well with the VTX, and will make your bike run very rich, and your mileage drop drastically. I suggest the follwing as a starting point:

80% sensitivity
5% fuel increase
8 engine revolutions

We may revise this as we have a chance to test the numbers on a dyno..

Last update: 2005-01-15 09:19
Author: Tapper

versaceandharley
04-09-2009, 05:18 PM
You have very informative, and helpful, threads. Thanks for your time. Great posts.