1800 Mods and Fixes: Headlight/Dash Rattle, Seat Pin Mod

[Chicago-Spike]

Some of us out here have gotten the infamous "headlight rattle". While the dealer can fix the problem, they are essentially doing the very same thing we are. I'd trust me working on my bike a little more sometimes. Easy 5 minute fix. Headlight Rattle Here is the fix. Remove the screws holding the the headlight into the bucket and remove the headlight, at the bottom of the headlight bucket you will see a tab extending out, this is where you take about a 1" piece of two sided tape (or a clear piece of rubber tubing slit to be a flat piece) and cut a slit into the length of the tab.Place the tape over the slit and replace headlight. note from Riley: while you are in there, do yourself a favor and get something to keep the wiring and etc in there from rattling around. I used, believe it or not, that fake snow (not the spray stuff- the stuff that is like fiberglass insulation kind of stuff) you use at Christmas time. It has SOME heat resistant qualities, although I don't know that it is an issue- works very well. Between the two mods, I haven't had any further problems for 2000 miles now.
Author: Riley

There is now also a sleeve you can buy to solve this as well
http://www.biglry.com/HeadlightBucketLiner-Rubber.html (http://www.biglry.com/HeadlightBucketLiner-Rubber.html)


Dash Panel Rattle/Buzz

You have a buzz at a certain RPM and you know it is from the dash panel on your tank because when you push on the dash it stops. So, how to fix?

1. Remove the 3 screws closest to the seat and place them out of the way.
2. Remove the gas cap.
3. Remove the dash panel by pushing toward the front of the tank. Wiggle the dash back and forth while doing this. The dash will slide of the rubber grommet/tongue at the front of the tank. Wrap dash in a towel and let hang to the front right of the tank
4. Important: Put gas cap back on! This keeps unwanted stuff from falling into the tank. You know, that "Murphy's Law" crap
5. On the 3 tangs that the dash bolts to, put 2 layers of black electrical tape(or an appropriate sized rubber o-ring ) on each tang. Cut an "X" into the tape for the screw to pass through
6. Remove gas cap
7. Put dash back onto rubber grommet and align the tangs with the dash
8. See Step 4 Put gas cap back on!
9. Install screws into dash and tighten.

Author: Chicago-Spike

[Chicago-Spike]

Tapper's Handy Dandy Fuel Line Mod HOWTO.

LockHart Philips valve here http://www.xtremerevolution.com/Store/spc-1810-57-1-motion-pro-quick-disconnect-fuel-line-coupling.aspx (http://www.xtremerevolution.com/Store/spc-1810-57-1-motion-pro-quick-disconnect-fuel-line-coupling.aspx)
Last update: 2006-03-23 19:14
Author: Mark Bauer

Ok. You're a swinging dick with a wrench, and can't resist the temptation to tear your bike apart at every opportunity. Like all smart wrenches, you take off your fuel tank before you get serious, in order to avoid dinging or scratching it up, or just so you can see all that crap it hides.
If you do this, then you know there's a problem. That damn fuel return line.
The fuel return line runs from the fuel pressure regulator, up to a little spigot on the top of the fuel pump, deep down inside the buttcrack of your fuel tank. Brothers (and sisters), it's a pain to get it off that spigot. Honda used an el cheapo pinch hose clamp on it, and wiggling your hands up there, while simultaneously holding the clamp open with a pair of pliers, is enough to make a grown man swear. Ok, it doesn't take much to make a grown man swear, but it's still a bitch anyway.
So one day Pete and I were standing around talking bikes, when the subject of getting that damn clamp off came up, and one or the other of us came up with an idea to make it oh-so-damn-easy.
So here we go, here's a simple mod, to save your knuckles and sanity, when removing your fuel tank.
Obligatory warning for Imbeciles: You do this at your own risk hoss. It worked for me, but I'm not guaranteeing it for you. If you blow your fool self up, catch your ass on fire, or anything else, it's your fault. Don't even think about suing me, I pissed all my money away on chrome anyway. If you're the lawsuit type, I suggest you just stop wasting all our time, and eat your .44 and save us all a bunch of trouble. Do this mod at your own risk.
MATERIALS


3 3/8" - 5/16" geared hose clamps.
1 245-1494 Lockhart Phillips 1/4" fuel coupler (2 valve)
15" 1/4" ID (3/8" OD) Pressurized Fuel Line
Ok, this coupler is pretty trick. It's a push-button quick-release coupler, with a one-way valve on each end, so that when you disconnect your hose, no gas spills. Here's what it looks like:

http://www.vtxoa.com/attachments/1fuelline.jpg

Here's what it looks like after you push the button (it's spring loaded, so it pops apart):

http://www.vtxoa.com/attachments/2fuelline.jpg

Ok, so let's get to it. First, follow the directions in This howto guide to remove your fuel tank. (http://www.texasxriders.com/fueltank/fuel_tank_howto.htm) Once you have your tank off, you can get busy.
Remove the fuel return hose from the fuel pressure regulator. Slide the heavy protective rubber sleeve off the old hose. Now, using the old hose, cut the new hose to the same length. Slide the heavy sleeve back over the hose, and re-attach it to the fuel regulator.
Now, cut that sucker, using a razor knife or something nice and sharp, about an inch or so higher than the radiator cap.
http://www.vtxoa.com/attachments/3fuelline.jpg

Put one of the hose clamps on the line, and insert the male end of the quick-connect's hose stab into the end of the fuel line, and tighten up the hose clamp nice and snug.

http://www.vtxoa.com/attachments/4fuelline.jpg


Halfway there hoss! Now, take the remaining piece of fuel line, and cut about 2 inches off one end of it. Plug in the female end of the connector, and secure it with another hose clamp.

http://www.vtxoa.com/attachments/6fuelline.jpg


Now, slide the remaining hose clamp on the other end, and push the hose onto the spigot on the fuel pump, where you removed it with so much cursing in the first place. This is it, the last time you gotta fiddle with this job, so cuss it up good. It helps to bust your knuckles one last time, to make sure you really appreciate this mod.

http://www.vtxoa.com/attachments/7fuelline.jpg


Now, re-assemble the fuel tank, and enjoy the sensation of just snapping that line back together. Pretty cool eh?
That's all folks. If you felt this helped, fine. Feel free to send me a kettle of money, or a bottle of tequila. But don't be surprised when I just buy more chrome with it.
Adios!

Last update: 2004-09-20 15:53
Author: Tapper

Chrome Steel Quick Disconnects

These couplers can be purchased from www.mcmaster.com Hi Pressure Chrome Quick Disconnect 5478K121, McMaster-Carr $11.60 Hi Pressure Chrome Quick Disconnect 5478K81, McMaster-Carr $18.86 Hi Pressure Chrome Quick Disconnect 5478K119, McMaster-Carr $11.60 Hi Pressure Chrome Quick Disconnect 5478K79, McMaster-Carr $18.86
Last update: 2007-03-13 18:41
Author: Larry McKenna

[Chicago-Spike]

How to Install Retro Bars on your VTX 1800 C




Adapted from the Original Post by BIGLRY

By Brian "Tapper" Davis

If you're like me, the C bars just don't make it. With the stock risers installed, they cause cramps in your shoulders and wrists, and even with aftermarket risers, they still inflict pain over a long haul. I tried risers, and they helped a lot, but on long rides, my wrists still cramped bad. It was time for some help, and about that time I spotted BIGLRY's riser post.

So, I jumped in. I gotta say, I'm glad I did. The bars are comfortable as all get out, and look good on the bike too. In fact, I can't really think of a single negative thing to say about them. I can ride all day now, and no issues with shoulders or wrist.
These install instructions assume you will be installing the bars on the stock C risers, and that's what I recommend. Aftermarket risers pull the bars too far back, and the retro risers don't get the bars back far enough to really be comfy.
PARTS


Part No. Description
53100-MCV-000 Handlebars for the 1800 Retro
90690-GHB-701 (x2) Cable Clips (you need 4 total, C already has 2)
45125-MZO-A41 Front Brake Hose for Valkyrie
1 bottle of Valvoline Synpower Brake Fluid


Special Tools
10mm Flare nut wrench recommended
http://www.texasxriders.com/albums/TappersCandyRed/acc.thumb.jpg

Brake Bleeder - preferably a Mityvac or something similar
http://www.texasxriders.com/albums/TappersCandyRed/aaz.sized.jpg
Procedure

http://www.texasxriders.com/albums/TappersCandyRed/abu.sized.jpg
STEP ONE
First, remove the old bars. This procedure can be found on page 13-3 in the Honda Service Manual. I'll summarize here, and add a few steps that aren't in the manual, so read through these even if you do have the manual. They'll save you some time.
1. Remove the fuel tank. This will help ensure you don't accidentally drop something on it and ding it, and will greatly simplify the process of re-routing cables later. You can find complete instructions on how to do this here (Howto Guide to remove fuel tank). (http://www.texasxriders.com/fueltank/fuel_tank_howto.htm)
2. Release the clips that hold the cables to the bars, remove them from the bars, and save them. You'll need these later.
3. Disconnect the two spade connectors from the clutch switch.
4. Remove the two allen head bolts that hold the clutch master cylinder assembly to the handlebars, and carefully lay the whole asseembly alongside the forks and out of the way, and let them hang there.
5. Remove the two screws from the left handlebar switch housing, and remove it from the bar (put the screws back in a little, to help prevent losing any pieces.)
6. Remove the handlebar grip cap, and remove the grip from the handlebar. This is a pain, so take your time. Try not to destroy the grip in the process.
7. Disconnect the spade connectors from the front brake switch.
8. Turn the handlebars all the way to the left. Remove the cap to the front brake fluid reservoir. Using a turkey baster, or something similar, remove all the fluid you can from the reservoir.
9. Drain and remove the brake fluid from the front brake system (only). Do this by using the Mityvac on the bleeder screws located on the front brake calipers. Attach the vac, pump it up a few times, then open the bleeder and fully drain the system. Do the left bleeder first, then the right bleeder. You need to get all the fluid out of there hoss, or it'll get all over the damn place.
10. Place a large bath towel over the front fender, covering it completely.
11. Disconnect the front brake hose banjo bolt from the front brake reservoir. Be careful not to lose the two crush washers, and be extra careful not to drip brake fluid on anything, especially painted parts. Brake fluid *will* eat your paint away, but fast. Not a good time to be a clutz folks.
11. Remove the two allen head socket bolts from the front brake reservoir assembly, and remove it from the bars.
12. Loosen the two philips head screws from the throttle switch housing. (don't remove yet, the cables probably won't stretch far enough to get off the bars.)
13. Remove the little chrome bolt caps from the four bolts in the upper handlebar clamp. Remove the allen head socket bolts underneath. Pop the upper clap off, but hang onto the bars a minute. Now, slide the whole throttle assembly off the bar. Let it hang for now.
At this point, you should be looking at the risers. If you already had aftermarket risers on there, remove them, and replace with the original C stock risers.
Re-Route the Cables

1. Ok, first, disconnect the throttle cables from the throttle switch housing (grip end assembly). IUt's not as hard as it sounds. Just be sure and take a few minutes to note how the cables route around the rotator cuff. It might help to make a small sketch, if you memory is as bad as mine. Mark the upper and lower cables with a piece of tape.
2. The throttle cables normally route along the left side of the frame. We need them to run along the right side now. So, carefully thread them back along the frame, back through the opening between the jugs, and up along the top of the right side of the frame. Be careful not to put a twist in them, or kink them in the process. Take your time, and it won't be a problem. You can route them above or below the wiring harness. I popped the harness out from the frame, and ran mostly along the top, then re-attached the harness.
3. Run the cables out directly beneath the upper triple tree, and just above the curly bracket that normally holds the front brake line. This will give you the maximum slack for the cable.
http://www.texasxriders.com/albums/TappersCandyRed/aby.sized.jpg

4. Now, move the clutch line up to the wire bracket that the throttle lines used to occupy on the front left side of the bike. Using a 9/16" socket, carefully and slowly put about 30-45 degrees of upward bend into the clutch line where it hits the bracket just after the point where the rubber and steel parts of the line join. This will improve the angle of the clutch line when you make a full left turn. Be *very* careful not to kink the line. Smooth constant pressure applied slowly will do the job. Use a tie-wrap, and secure the clutch line to the bracket.
5. Disconnect the brake line banjo bolt from the right front caliper. Remember, fluid will probably run out. Keep a rag handy. Disconnect the little bracket attached to the rear fender strut that holds the two lines there. Pull the brake line out of that bracket.
6. Disconnect the front brake pipe. This requires loosening the two line nuts attaching either end of the line to the brake blocks. All this mess is hung in brackets under the lower triple tree in the front forks. The front brake pipe, is the one farthest forward. In order to loosen the line nuts, put the flare-nut wrench on a nut as solidly as posible, hold it in place securely, and give it sharp raps with a dead blow hammer until it begins to turn. These nuts are very soft, and if you try to just turn them in the usual way, they'll deform, and you'll end up having to use channel locks to get the nuts off.
http://www.texasxriders.com/albums/TappersCandyRed/acd.sized.jpg
7. Now that you have the pipe loosened up, remove the two hex-end screws, so the whole pipe assembly will come loose. Now, remove the hex end screw attaching the front brake line block to the assembly. Now you can remove the entire front brake hose (woo-hoo).
8. Now, reverse the last step, and install the new Valk front brake line. First, insert the brake pipe back into the blocks, and tighten it a few turns. Now, attach the block back into the bracket assembly with the screw. Now, re-attach the whole assembly to the lower triple tree with the other two hex-head screws (this is a fiddly step, take your time, things are a bit tricky to line up here, but you'll get it. Try swearing heavily and often, I find it really helps.)
9. Now that you have all the brackets hooked up, tighten up the line nuts (flare nuts) good and tight. Use the dead blow hammer, and make sure you have those suckers in there good, we don't want them to leak, or the brakes will suck air and stop working. Feel free to use a little teflon tape on the nuts, to be extra anal about it.
10. Re-attach the new hose to the little bracket, and re-attach the bracket to the rear front fender strut. This is a pain in the ass to line up.
11. Re-attach the banjo bolt to the front caliper, using the two compression washers you saved when you removed it. Torque this to 25 ft-lbs.
Woohoo! Getting there hoss. Now all we got to do, is mount the new bars back up.
Mount the New Bars

Ok, lets get the new stick on there.
1. Grease up the track the throttle rotator cuff turns in in the throttle swtich housing. Re-install the throttle cables in the housing. I found, it made it easier to remove the switch so I could turn the housing on the sleeves, since one of them must be screwed into the housing. Consult your sketch, and do this right. Once you have it all together, put the screws in there loosely, but enough to hold the mess together. Leave the lock collars on the throttle cables loose for now, so the cable can move back and forth a bit.
2. Pick up the new handlebars, and slide the throttle switch housing on the end. pay attention to the cables, make sure they hang right. Now, put the bars on the risers, and put the serrations dead in the middle of the risers. Eyeball this good. This step will be much easier if you get a helper to hold the bars for you while you clamp them.
3. Now, install the upper clamp. Locate it correctly, make sure the serrations are in the right place, and install the socket head bolts. Tighten just enough to keep the bar from flopping around, but not so tight you can't rotate the bar in the clamp yet. Now, look for the little pimple in the bar at the clamp. Mine was on the right side of the bar. I lined this up so it was even with the clamp, and pointing to the split. You can adjust this to taste though, and make the bars higher or lower if you choose. Once you have it where you want it, tighten down the socket bolts, and torque them to 20 ft-lbs.
4. Tighten down the throttle assembly by tightening the two philips head screws. Make sure you have it up on the bar all the way. Now, Install the front brake reservoir assembly with the two socket head bolts. Adjust it so it's on there correctly, and tighten it up snug for now.
5. Turn the handlebars all the way to the left. Now, tighten the lock collars on the throttle cables. Now, verify that the throttle works correctly at all handlebar positions. You may need to adjust something if you goofed here. But hopefully not. Watch the slack in the cables. They should be a bit tight when the bars are all the way left, but not really getting stretched. Attach the spade connectors to the switch housing.
6. All good? Now fully tighten the front brake reservoir assembly. You can adjust this, by turning the bars all the way left, and trying to get the housing as level as possible (so fluid won't pour out when you remove the cap later).
7. Thread the front brake hose up through the curly bracket, and make sure it isn't twisted. Now, attach the banjo bolt to the front brake reservoir, and torque it to 25 ft-lbs.
8. Install the clutch switch housing. Make sure to get the little plastic switch housing end on the bar the right way. It helps here to slide the left grip on long enough to locate the correct position for the housing. Attach the spade connectors again to the switch housing.
9. Install the clutch reservoir housing the same way. Get the housing level, tighten it down good.
10. Check all the lines again. Rotate the bars back and forth, looking for binding. Try the throttle, make sure it's all good.
11. Glue the left grip on.
12. Attach the clips to the 4 titties on the bar, and secure the cables in place. You may also want to tie-wrap a bit, to keep everything tidy.
13. Put the bolt caps back on the handlebar clamps.
http://www.texasxriders.com/albums/TappersCandyRed/acb.sized.jpg
14. Install the brake fluid in the front brakes, and bleed them. This will be the subject of a future guide, so I won't go into detail here. Just do it! I'll link the new guide when I finish it.
This would be a really good time to fix the crappy electronics ground. Take a look at this howto guide (http://www.texasxriders.com/ground/ground_fix_vtx.htm)and follow the directions there. This is a highly recommended step. Just do it, don't be a dumbass.
15. Now, reinstall the gas tank and seat, and clean the bike up good. Stand back, and marvel at your handiwork. Drink a beer. Fondle the wife. Celebrate.
Now get out, and ride that hoss. You're going to love these new bars!
http://www.texasxriders.com/albums/TappersCandyRed/abg.sized.jpg

Last update: 2004-10-29 11:27
Author: Tapper

[Chicago-Spike]

Seat Pin Mod/What to do if your seat bolts get stuck

Neat and cheap little mod courtesy of Atadude:
http://www.bareasschoppers.com/seatpin (http://www.bareasschoppers.com/seatpin)

Last update: 2004-12-18 22:28
Author: Bareass

[Chicago-Spike]

Thanks to VTXScooter for putting this together.

How to add a Harley style Batwing fairing to your VTX;

http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28043&highlight=dyers

[W9VD]

STEP BY STEP WINDSHIELD SHRINKING PROJECT.



I did this mod some time ago but had not found the time to post the step by step. I did this after I had BADX mod my seat because the seat mod put me considerably lower on the bike and I was looking through the windshield. The actual mod took about 45 minutes. To get the pictures uploaded and this article put together took me three hours.


Needed tools:

2” or 3” blue painters tape.
A piece of cardboard.
Tape measure.
Straight edge.
Razor knife.
Pencil or fine tip marker.
Tools to remove windshield. (I have a MS shield and left the hardware on the shield.)
Band saw or jig saw. (I used a band saw with coarse teeth. 6 to an inch.)
Various grades of sand paper with a sander block or block of wood. (I roughed the finished cut with a hand held belt sander and then finished with 220 grit paper)


NOTE: If you use Honda spray cleaner on your windshield, tape will not stick to the windshield. You must first clean the shield with an ammonia-based glass cleaner to get the tape to adhere. HEH HEH! I guest that is why bugs don’t stick either!



This is a picture of my shield before I started. The tape is for reference only. It started as a 21 inch Memphis shades.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd69/w9vd/IMG_0311.jpg


I placed the cardboard on the front of the windshield and marked the outline of the top. You can bend the cardboard to match the contour of the shield. A few extra hands to hold definitely helped.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd69/w9vd/IMG_0313.jpg


Then I cut the cardboard with a razor knife on the line for a template.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd69/w9vd/IMG_0316.jpg


I measured up three inches from the bottom of the cardboard and then cut the three inch piece off the template with the razor knife.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd69/w9vd/IMG_0318.jpg


I put the template back on the inside of the shield and marked the cut line on the tape. Again, I used the aluminum trim on the shield as an index.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd69/w9vd/IMG_0319.jpg
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd69/w9vd/IMG_0321.jpg


Now I taped the entire front of the shield off to protect the surface from scratches.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd69/w9vd/IMG_0322.jpg


Then I cut the windshield on a band saw face down. Try to angle the shield as you are cutting it to get the shield flat at the point of the blade. Take your time and stay on the line. I am sure you could use a sabre saw but I would double tape the inside of the shield to protect from scratches.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd69/w9vd/IMG_0323.jpg


I placed the shield in a Tupperware tub to hold it while I was sanding the cut edge. I was going to clamp it in a Black and Decker workstation but this was quicker and easier.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd69/w9vd/IMG_0324.jpg


Again, the tape is for reference only.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd69/w9vd/IMG_0328.jpg


I now have the only custom 18-inch Memphis shades shield in the US!

[Chicago-Spike]

Hondaline saddle bag brackets modification. To make removal and install easier of the Saddle bags.

I Modified my stock hondaline saddle bag brackets to ease off and on of the darn saddle bags today. Anyone who has these bags must realize that they are a pain to put on the bike. trying to line up the holes and the short 6mm allen heads can be a challange. I went to a 6mm stud and acorn nut system. It makes it so much easier to remove and put them back on now for cleaning and working on the bike.

The stock system really is bad sometimes I felt like it was eaiser to stand on my head and try and line up the bolts with the holes and get the washers on right. Not to mention it took to much TIME! Here is my Fix.

I removed the bags and purchased~

CHROME or STAINLESS STEEL

8- 6mm x 20 button head bolts
8- 6mm flat washers
8- 1/4" star lock washers
8- 6mm acorn nuts (tall ones pointed ends CHROME)
1- medium locktite
1- proper size allen wrench (cut short since I didn't remove my brackets)

(Hardware is also available in stainless steel for much less but i figured what the heck and I work at Ace hardware. If you go stainless you might need a bit shorter bolt since the nuts aren't as deep as the chrome ones I used.)

I put a flat, star and then the bolt and screwed them in from the backside of the brackets with just a bit of medium locktite on the thread closest to the head of the bolt. Getting them started with the brackets on the bike was a challange but once they start you can thread them thru by your fingers from the front side. then tighten them good with your allen wrench.

Now you have 4 6mm studs sticking thru your bracket. This allows you to simply hang the bag on the brackets.The 4 allens will hold the bag hanging so I could put on the stock washers and the new acorn nuts. Making removal and install a BREEZE!

Works so much easier now. If I have the bags off I can put the acorns on and it doesn't look to bad at all. Now the trips to the car wash I can have the bags removed in a couple of minutes and get to other areas of the bike with ease. Final drive maintance is much easier to access now also.

I might consider getting my brackets chromed this winter so they look nicer if I have my bags off. I did this mod with the brackets on the bike. It would be easier to do off the bike but it can be done with them on also.

*************************************************

I hope you find this useful.

Dave

Last update: 2005-01-24 07:03
Author: Dave Shady

[mark_1bx]

STEP BY STEP WINDSHIELD SHRINKING PROJECT.





I did this mod some time ago but had not found the time to post the step by step. I did this after I had BADX mod my seat because the seat mod put me considerably lower on the bike and I was looking through the windshield. The actual mod took about 45 minutes. To get the pictures uploaded and this article put together took me three hours.


Needed tools:

2” or 3” blue painters tape.
A piece of cardboard.
Tape measure.
Straight edge.
Razor knife.
Pencil or fine tip marker.
Tools to remove windshield. (I have a MS shield and left the hardware on the shield.)
Band saw or jig saw. (I used a band saw with coarse teeth. 6 to an inch.)
Various grades of sand paper with a sander block or block of wood. (I roughed the finished cut with a hand held belt sander and then finished with 220 grit paper)


NOTE: If you use Honda spray cleaner on your windshield, tape will not stick to the windshield. You must first clean the shield with an ammonia-based glass cleaner to get the tape to adhere. HEH HEH! I guest that is why bugs don’t stick either!



This is a picture of my shield before I started. The tape is for reference only. It started as a 21 inch Memphis shades.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd69/w9vd/IMG_0311.jpg


I placed the cardboard on the front of the windshield and marked the outline of the top. You can bend the cardboard to match the contour of the shield. A few extra hands to hold definitely helped.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd69/w9vd/IMG_0313.jpg


Then I cut the cardboard with a razor knife on the line for a template.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd69/w9vd/IMG_0316.jpg


I measured up three inches from the bottom of the cardboard and then cut the three inch piece off the template with the razor knife.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd69/w9vd/IMG_0318.jpg


I put the template back on the inside of the shield and marked the cut line on the tape. Again, I used the aluminum trim on the shield as an index.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd69/w9vd/IMG_0319.jpg
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd69/w9vd/IMG_0321.jpg


Now I taped the entire front of the shield off to protect the surface from scratches.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd69/w9vd/IMG_0322.jpg


Then I cut the windshield on a band saw face down. Try to angle the shield as you are cutting it to get the shield flat at the point of the blade. Take your time and stay on the line. I am sure you could use a sabre saw but I would double tape the inside of the shield to protect from scratches.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd69/w9vd/IMG_0323.jpg


I placed the shield in a Tupperware tub to hold it while I was sanding the cut edge. I was going to clamp it in a Black and Decker workstation but this was quicker and easier.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd69/w9vd/IMG_0324.jpg


Again, the tape is for reference only.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd69/w9vd/IMG_0328.jpg


I now have the only custom 18-inch Memphis shades shield in the US!

Good job!

[ToMang07]

OK, so as promised, here is the "How-To", borrowed from Bare, with a link from the origional write-up HERE (http://bareasschoppers.com/seatpin).

Thanks to VTXOA members, AtaDude, and course, Bare.

Preface
This is a pretty simple mod I did, the idea comes courtesy of AtaDude of the VTXOA (http://www.vtxoa.com/). The basic concept is to fix the problem inherent in the seat bolts on the VTX. No matter how loose you leave these bolts they always seem to snug up ridiculously tight. I know that I, along with many others, have stripped out the stock bolts trying to remove them. This problem combined with the desire to get under the seat with relative ease resulted in this quick, simple mod.

Preparation/supplies
http://bareasschoppers.com/Pics/dot.gif6mm allen wrench
http://bareasschoppers.com/Pics/dot.gif10mm socket (w/ extension to make life easy)
http://bareasschoppers.com/Pics/dot.gifDrill
http://bareasschoppers.com/Pics/dot.gif3/8" metal-cutting drill bit
http://bareasschoppers.com/Pics/dot.gif2 ball & detent pins, 3/8" diameter x 1"-1 1/4" in length

http://bareasschoppers.com/seatpin/pin.jpg

You can buy these at Home Depot ($3.78/each) or Lowe's ($2.47/each) in a 1 1/8" length.
http://bareasschoppers.com/Pics/dot.gifYou can also buy these (http://www.jergensinc.com/pin_select.aspx?ms=en&style_ID=100&dia=0.375&grip=1) as an alternative - thanks to Chicago-Spike of the VTXOA for that link.
http://bareasschoppers.com/Pics/dot.gifR model guys can use McMaster-Carr #98404A368 (http://www.mcmaster.com/) - it's the same pin but 0.8" long - thanks to Pachary of the VTXOA for that link.

Process
To do this you'll need to remove the stock seat. If you don't know how (you probably should close this web browser and quit while you're behind, lol) you can see how at the beginning of my turn signal write up here (http://bareasschoppers.com/signals/index.htm). With the seat removed you'll want to drill the existing bolt holes with the 3/8" drill bit:

http://bareasschoppers.com/seatpin/leftb4.jpghttp://bareasschoppers.com/seatpin/rightb4.jpg

Take your time, be careful, and drill STRAIGHT. The last thing you want to do is slip with a metal cutting bit so close to your paint. I had a friend hold a shop vac over the drill bit while I drilled to eliminate any mess.
With the bike drilled we still need to enlarge the holes in the seat itself.


http://bareasschoppers.com/seatpin/seat.jpg

The drill made short work of these holes, and now the "hard" part of the work is done. Put the seat back on the bike, put the 10mm nut back on behind the passenger seat, and you can now push the ball & detent pins through the seat mounting points where the bolts used to be. Before I installed my pins I used a drop of marine grade grease on them to make installation/removal a little easier. With them in place you can rotate the "ring" portion of the pin up under the seat where it tucks away nicely (see pics below).

http://bareasschoppers.com/seatpin/leftafter.jpghttp://bareasschoppers.com/seatpin/rightafter.jpg

Afterthoughts
Dollar for dollar this is a great mod. It's inexpensive, easy, and it provides me with the peace of mind that I never have to worry about stripping my seat bolts again - much less stripping them when I'm miles away from home and need to access my battery. A BIG thanks to AtaDude again for this great idea!