1300/1800 Handlebars & Controls, Harley Grip Mod

[Chicago-Spike]

Grip Removal & Install

Got custom aftermarket grips? Read this for easy installation instructions. There are two different sets of instructions- you make the call on which one is the way you want to go. Also included are some helpful tidbits at the end
Installed Kuryakyn Iso-Grips#6190(Valkryie) and the modified Vista Cruise from Kevin Kidder.
I would have never believed that simply changing the grips would have made riding the VTX even more fun.
The grips really feel nice and seem to allow my hands to relax a bit more. The Vista Cruise is a godsend for long trips. Both were easy to install and it took less than 30 minutes of actual time to finish the job. I have seen so many people ask about this in past, I thought I would do a write-up. Hope this helps.



Completely cover your bike before starting....keeps the WD40 and glue from getting on your bike.
Remove the end caps from stock grips. Left side comes off with a hard twist using plyers. Wrap the endcap with a rag to protect. The Throttle side endcap simply screws off. Using a long skinny screwdriver to get between the bars/throttle sleeve, spray WD40 between the rubber grip and the handle bars on the left side and between the rubber grip and the white throttle sleeve on the Right. Work the screwdriver completely around and both stock grips should slide off easily. Thoroughly clean the WD40 from the bar and the throttle sleeve.
I put the new Grips on without glue, sat on the bike and aligned them to properly sit on the bars. I installed the spacer per the instructions, as the 6190 grips are about an inch longer than our stock grips. I used a grease pencil to mark on the grips and bars, so I could line it up as I was installing with glue.
For the Left Side: I used the glue provided by Kuryakyn. It is very unforgiving and will quickly dry when you stop moving the grip. Remove the endcap(4 screws) on the Kuryakyn grip, as this will help you align the grip and help to keep the glue from drying too quickly. Regardless, it dries within a few seconds, so make sure you have the grips marked and aligned before installing. If you stop for even a second, you are screwed. If you are not confident, then use Griplock from Threebond, as it takes longer to dry. Some people use double sided tape(kind for golf grips) instead of glue. You can spray the tape with lighter fluid, adjust them properly and when the lighter fluid evaporates, the glue sticks.
For the Throttle Side: I used Griplock from Threebond to glue the Throttle side. It requires 6-8 hours to dry and since I was gluing to the plastic throttle sleeve, I did not want to use the quick drying glue. The 6190 grips are the ones for the Valkyie and do not require you do touch the throttle assembly, since you simply glue them to the stock throttle sleeve. Much easier and quicker than the grips for the VTX.
I went ahead and installed the Vista Cruise at the same time. The modified Vista Cruise looks much better than the standard installation. Kevin modifies it so the big ugly black thumb piece is hidden under the bars. Also, you do not have to drill on your handle bars to install and it even makes more ergonomic sense, because your thumb is in perfect position to set the cruise. With the thumb piece underneath, it is next to your thumb in a normal riding position. Tap with you finger to release.
The Vista Cruise is $32 from Hal, or $35 from Kevin (free shipping too).
See Kevin's web site at http://www.geocities.com/pen_le/home1.htm (http://www.geocities.com/pen_le/home1.htm)

Great addition to a great bike. Not only do they feel good, but they really add to looks as well. I hope this helps anyone that might want to do this modifications.

Submission #2 -Removal of the grips is easy. Use a sharp razor (exacto) and cut through the OEM rubber grip lengthwise. Peel back the rubber and the end caps will come off relatively easily. Once the OEM grips are removed, clean the old glue off by using acetone or another adhesive remover.

If the new throttle grip doesn't include the sleeve that replaces the OEM one, then apply a small amount of adhesive and slide the new grips in place. Follow the directions that came with the grips.

If you have the Kuryakan throttle grip that comes with an internal throttle sleeve, then you'll first have to remove the OEM one. This is easy. Remove the two screws from the throttle housing, and open it up. The cable end terminations can be removed from the sleeve with a pair of needle nose pliers. Work the throttle to get some slack.

The hard part comes with having to attach the push-pull throttle cables to the new sleeve. I had a lot of difficulty doing this, and if I was to do it again, I'd pay the $25 bucks and have the dealer do it. There may be a specific procedure, but I've never seen or heard of one, nor do I think it's covered in the manual.

If in doubt about your ability to re-attach the cables, let the dealer do it. The throttle cables ends can be damaged very easily.

Submission #3-If you haven't already slit the old grips with a razor don't. The end caps will come off. The throttle side is screwed on the other side is pressed on. Take them both off and use a screw driver to pry the rubber from the handle bar. Squirt WD40 into the opening. By working your way around the grip this way they will slide off and you won't have destroyed the original grips. Exchange the VTX grips for the Valk grips. The Valk grips work just fine and you don't have to screw around with the cables.

Submission #4- I installed the Kury grips today and throttle boss. No issues. The trick to the cables is when you use your needle nose pliers and roll on the throttle plastic to get the slack, you can get the bottom one off, then the top, the put the new one on top first, then bottom; the exact opposite way they come off.

My hardest part was getting the switch assembly back over the plastic part that rides in the cable housing; but was manageable.

Have patience and the right tools to do this.

Last update: 2004-10-29 10:32
Author: Various

[Chicago-Spike]

I wanted to further add to the "internal wiring" knowledge base, so here's what I did (most of these ideas I got from several people on this board, so I'm not taking credit for any of it...just sharing):

Supplies needed:

** Several small spools of 20-gauge stranded wire, or one big spool (for extensions)
** Scissors
** Wire cutters/strippers
** Heat shrink tubing - several diameters for different applications
** Soldering iron & solder with flux
** Heat gun
** Big bottle of cable lube
** Masking tape & electrical tape (explained later...)
** Razor blade (like the ones used in box cutters or carpenter's knives)
** Snap connectors (bullet connectors)



Process:

* Bars are off the bike *

1. I smoothed out all of the holes in the Punishers using a Dremel

2. Using kite string, I tied a small metal nut tightly to one end, and then fished it through from the top and down to the bottom on both sides. The kite string was my "pull" line. Others have used something else as a "pull" line.

3. I did a "test fit" of my switch box housings to the new bars just to see where they lined up in reference to where the wires enter the bars.

4. With the housings off the bars, I began the task of extending the wires. I stagger-cut each wire and removed the plugs. I used masking tape and labeled some of the wires on both sides of the cut to make absolutely sure I soldered the wires back together correctly. Most of the wires are different colors, but a few of the black ones were the same. Then I cut small pieces of the smallest diameter heat shrink tubing I could use and placed those on each wire, and soldered about 1.5' of 20-gauge wire as extensions. Then I moved the heat shrink tubing in place and covered each soldering point.

5. Now what I did was "label" each wire so I knew where to solder it back to the plugs once the wires were pulled through. I took a very small piece of masking tape, wrote a brief description of each colored wire on it and then taped it around the very end of each extension. Then I took a very small piece of electrical tape and wrapped it around the masking tape to protect it from coming off during the pull. (Yes, I'm anal!! http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif ) You can see the pieces of masking tape on the pictures above.


* I mounted the bars to the triple tree *

6. With the switch housings mounted to the bars, I used the razor blade and trimmed back several inches of the stock black wire wrap to expose the wires more. This stock wire wrap is loose around the wires, and I wanted to get it trimmed back toward the housings so that I would be able to heat shrink all of the wires together tightly to make it easier to pull through. I still left some of the stock wire wrap on each side, but in retrospect, it might have been better to trim it all the way back to the housings and then heat shrink all of it.

7. Now I used larger diameter heat shrink tubing and heat shrunk all of the wires together on each side. For the left side, I used 5/8" tubing, and for the right side, I used 1/2" tubing. I cut the heat shrink tubing long enough to cover all the wires completely, which would help protect my labeling. Then I used electrical tape and covered the very end of the heat shrink tubing to make a cone shape

8. To get ready to pull them through, I used electrical tape and taped the kite string to the wire bundle. I taped several inches, because I did not want the string to get loose of the wire bundle while inside the bars. Plus, I would be using cable lube, which would make it more apt to slip.

9. Pulling the right side through was not a big deal. I was able to do it myself. The left side, however, was harder than I thought. So I took the bars off the bike and put them on the floor. I had an extra set of hands help fish the bundle through the top while I pulled on the exit hole. We used plenty of cable lube on both sides.

10. Once the wires were through, I took the top triple clamp off and went inside to solder the plugs back on. I carefully removed the heat shrink tubing to expose my labeling on the extensions. Then I carefully removed each piece of electrical tape on the end of the wires so I could get to my labels. I wound up cutting about 6-8” off of the extensions, but I would’ve rather had them too long than too short. Plus I kept enough of the extensions on in case I wanted to add a headlight extension later on down the road.

11. Once the wires were soldered back on, I went back out and reattached the triple clamp to the bike, plugged the wires back in and tested all switches and lights.

Brought to you by;
Mr. VTX

[Chicago-Spike]

Disciple X Levers

This may be more for the C.R.A.P. crowd but I thought you guys/gals may be interested in doing something like this. I started with stock levers (brake & clutch).

First, I marked where my fingers are on the levers.

http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data/500/6377Grip_1.JPG

Then I used a side gringer and cut out the finger grips and shavd of the "ball" end to a point.

http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data/500/6377Grip_2.JPG

I then used a section of conduit wrapped with 100grit to finish cutting out the fingers and smoothing out the grooves cut by the grinder.

http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data/500/6377Grip_3.JPG

Then I finished up polishing: 100, 320, 800, 2000, cutting compound, and finally a hand polishing cream.

http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data/500/6377Grip_4.JPG

The metal for these levers is very soft and easy to work with so it only took a few hours.
Last update: 2007-11-17 08:14
Author: Ceetro

[Laura]

WOW.... that's all I can say.... very very creative. What a way to give a totally "personalized" addition to the bike.


Impressive, now I have to search your posts and see what else you've come up with. :bowdown:

[Chicago-Spike]

Steering Neck Bearing Adjustments

Without having the correct socket and spring-tension scale to measure the triple tree drag as suggested in the service manual, I use Channel-Lock pliers just large enough to get the job done. I've been doing it this way for years and have developed a "feel" for adjusting the steering neck adjuster and lock nuts. Haven't had any failures due to over- or under-tightening in the 40+ years I've been working on bikes.

When using the replacement Timken-style, tapered roller bearings you pack them with grease in the same manner that you would an automotive wheel bearing - very liberally - making certain to squeeze the (automotive disc brake wheel) bearing grease into the roller assembly and wipe a liberal amount on the outside of the bearing, too. Put additional grease up onto the bearing race and stuff just a bit extra up into the steering neck.

Assemble the lower triple tree without the fork tubes at this time. Tighten down the adjuster nut until you begin to feel a slight resistance to tightening. Begin to work the triple tree in full left-to-right swings (lock-to-lock is another term), while continuing to tighten the adjuster nut in 1/8 turn increments until the triple tree can be turned only when considerable force is applied. Back off the adjuster nut a 1/4 turn. The adjuster nut may now occasionally stay stationery when you move the triple tree lock-to-lock. Snug it down another 1/8 turn, or until the adjuster nut turns with the steering stem and tree.

Assemble the fork tubes into the lower triple tree allowing enough of the tubes to place the top clamp onto in a minute or so. Run the axle through the forks, lightly tighten the fork clamp bolts on the lower triple clamp only at this time, just enough to hold the forks in place. Install the top triple clamp in place, but do not tighten any of its bolts at this time. Now swing the triple tree/fork tube assembly lock-to-lock, "feeling" for any binding. You will probably notice that the forks tend to "flop" from side-to-side, indicating a bit of looseness in the adjustment.

Remove the top triple tree and again, using 1/8 turns, tighten down the adjuster nut gradually, feeling for any tightness or binding during the applied swing motion. You may have to remove and install the top triple clamp several times during this process. Continue tightening until a heavy drag or resistance during the lock-to-lock swing is noticed. Back off the last 1/8 turn and observe the amount of "drag" to the swing motion. There is a measurement that is recommended in foot-pounds using a tension scale, but most of us have never invested in such a tool, hence the "feel" method works well enough for Timken-style bearings.

Install the lock-plate, and the lock nut until it makes contact with the lock plate. Take a shock (adjuster) spanner wrench and position it to hold the adjuster nut while you use your large Channel-Lock pliers to snug down the lock nut. Once tightened sufficiently and lined up properly, bend the tabs on the lock plate and you’re nearly home free. Install the top triple clamp and the top clamp steering stem nut, but don't tighten them down just yet. Loosen the pinch bolts in the lower triple clamp one at a time and position your fork tubes to the proper height, snugging the top triple clamp pinch bolts, then the lower triple clamp pinch bolts. Torque the pinch bolts to the manual’s specs, then torque the stem nut to specs in the service manual.

Now you're done with the steering neck bearing adjustment process.
__________________
Author: Joe Licketto

[Chicago-Spike]

Harley Grips on a VTX (aka - the Harley Grip Mod) by Sinned

I know this has been done before, but it just seems that not enough people know that with a very little amount of modification, you can use Harley grips on your VTX and therefore have a vast variety of grips available to you.

A few of you have asked about my grips, so I decided to post how I went about modifying the stock handlebar control housings to accept Harley grips.

Tools needed:
A dremmel (or something like it)
A dremmel bit like the one pictured below (or something close to it)
A set of Phillips head screwdrivers (#2 and #3(I think))
Your new cool lookin Harley grips

Step 1:
You'll need to completely remove the control housings from the bike as well as the stock grips. There are tons of posts on this, but the best I've seen for grip removal is this one:
http://www.moccsplace.com/images/grips/grips.htm (http://www.moccsplace.com/images/grips/grips.htm)
The stock housing removal is pretty simple. Just make sure to unscrew the 4 Phillips head bolts (2 per housing) on each side, and then move to the cables and all the switches inside. In reality, you only need to fully remove the throttle side housing, the other you can probably mod after you separate the housing into its two pieces.

Step 2:
After you have all the stuff separated and off the bike, you're going to have to start grinding. I used a dremmel and a little bit made of stone that works well on aluminum.
http://static.flickr.com/35/91041686_529bfdb4fa_b.jpg

You'll need to grind both housings, so let's start with the easy one first. On the left side housing, you only need to grind off the little nub (circled in pic below) so you can move the housing closer to the Harley grip as they're a bit shorter than the stock grips. It's an optional step, if you want, you can leave the housing as is and everything will go on just fine, but it'll look "off". So with the dremmel, just grind the nub down till it's even with the rest of the opening in the housing
http://static.flickr.com/17/91041687_597000d772_b.jpg
After you're done grinding down the nub, you can slap the left housing back together and put it back on the bike.

Step 3
Now you'll need to grind the throttle side housing. The problem here is that our stock housing is about 31mm in diameter, while a Harley grip is about 34mm in diameter. Here's where it pays to really take your time. Slowly grind the outer opening in the throttle housing till your Harley grip can fit in, rotate without kinking, and you can close the housing around the grip. Be careful not to grind way too much, or your new grips will flop around. So, grind a little, test, grind a little, test, etc, till it's perfect. See pic below, the outer opening is circled in red. You don't need to grind that much off, just wanted to show a pic.
http://static.flickr.com/36/91041688_7f3bf0b433_b.jpg
After everything fits, make sure you grease up the inside of the grip and also put some where the cables go. Then put the housing and all the switches back together and put everything back on the bike.

Here's a quick before (Top) and after (bottom) pic of the throttle side housing. You can see that there's not a lot of difference between the two, so take your time when grinding.
http://static.flickr.com/32/91041689_17608e17c7_b.jpg

Step 4
Put your badass Harley grips on and enjoy!!!!!

Author; Sinned

[BadPapi24]

Nice!
i'm goin to buy a spare set of housings to try this . thanks

[dumbcomputers]

Couldn't you just shorten the handlebar a little? Rather then taking the pin off the housing? Just a thought, even though removing the pin probably would be easier.