VTX Related Cool Ideas: DIY Vacuum Pump & Other Handy Tools

[Chicago-Spike]

Make a powered vacuum pump for bleeding brakes etc.
FLUID VACUUM

I’ve been wanting a fluid vac. for my shop, seen one at NorthernTool for $120. A bit pricey in my opinion for something that I’ll not be using everyday. Decided to make one myself and it was under $50.

Tools required:

-Sharpie marker
-pencil
-tape measure
-1/2 inch drill
-8 inch vise (makes drilling and taping easier)
-1/4 inch NP tap (National Plumbers thread)
-7/16 inch drill bit per info. on tap (used smaller 27/64 bit with good results)
-hacksaw
-2 crescent wrenches
-channel lock pliers

Parts Needed: Found at LOWES

-(1) sheet sand paper 200 grit or whatever is on hand
-(1) 4 inch toilet bowl flange (with knock out in center)
-(1) 4 inch threaded adapter
-(1) 4 inch threaded plug
-4 inch dia. PVC pipe 20 inches in length (26" would make vac hold 1 gallon) 5 ft. length can be purchased at Lowes
-(1) 1/4 inch air valve (Campbell Housefield #IFA 114)
-3/8 inch outside dia. clear vinyl tubing 20 ft. length
-(1) tube 1 fl oz. Oatey pipe joint compound
-(1) 4 fl oz. Oatey PVC cement (smallest size available, requires very little)
-(1) Harbor Freight air vacuum pump (Central Pneumatic #3952)
-(1) 3 ft. HVAC hose (connects to fitting on front of air vac. pump) I had an old one laying around, you can purchase these at Graingers or at a HVAC supply house.
-(4) 3/8 X 1/4 inch tube to MIP elbo with insert (Watts A-128 PB969-P) Compression fitting
-(1) 1/4 FIP to MIP street elbo (Watts A-739 PB116) Compression fitting
-(1) 3/8 X 1/4 inch straight compression with insert or 1/4 inch threaded to barbed fitting

http://www.vtxoa.com/images/vac1.JPG

First take the 4 inch PVC pipe 20 inches long (suggest increasing it to 26 inches if you require one gallon capacity) dry fit toilet bowl flange and threaded adapter, pushing them all the way onto pipe. Take a pencil, mark around pipe where the edges of the flange and adapter meets the pipe. This will indicate how far above flange to drill bottom sight level fitting hole. Measure ½ inch above bottom pencil mark drill a 27/64 inch hole (suggest starting with a small drill bit and step up a couple of times to the 27/64 inch bit, go slow with the drill), thread the hole with the 1/4 inch NP tap.

http://www.vtxoa.com/images/vac2.JPG

Put pipe joint compound on the threads of a 3/8 X 1/4 inch tube to MIP elbo with insert and thread the fitting into the PVC pipe pointing toward the top of the pipe.

http://www.vtxoa.com/images/vac3.JPG

Now directly above the bottom fitting measure 15 ½ inches from center of first hole (NOTE: if you require a one gallon tank you’ll need to measure up 20 inches on the 26 inch long pipe) and drill a second hole 27/64 inch (tap threads and insert 3/8 fitting like the first one), this fitting needs to point down towards the bottom fitting. Now pull the 3/8 inch clear tubing in between the two fittings, remember the tube needs to slide into the fitting on each end for the compression ring to work.

http://www.vtxoa.com/images/vac4.JPG

After cutting tubing slide the nut onto tube with threaded end toward cut end of tube, push insert into the tubing and do the same for the other end. Now tighten the nut down (snug, do not over tighten) onto the fitting being sure to push tubing into the fitting all the way, do the same to the other end of the tubing, being sure that length of tubing makes sight tube straight. Take sand paper, rough up ends of PVC pipe between pencil lines drawn earlier and ends of pipe, also rough up insides of 4 inch adapter and 4 inch toilet flange. Put PVC glue on in side of flange and bottom end of PVC pipe (remember the level sight fitting is ½ inch above pencil line on the bottom end of the pipe you’ll want the toilet flange on this end!!) push the pipe and flange together with a small twist to seat the glue. Be sure to plumb the pipe and flange (make sure the flange is on a level surface and the pipe seats straight up and down before glue takes hold!!). Glue the 4 inch threaded adapter onto the top of the PVC pipe in the same manner as the flange. Drill another 27/64 inch hole / thread with 1/4 inch NP tap, 1 inch above top level sight fitting and to the side of it. This is the fluid syphoning fitting, put pipe joint compound onto 3/8 X 1/4 inch fitting and screw into threaded hole. Connect the remaining clear tubing to this fitting (this tube will be used to draw the liquid out of the container you want emptied). On the inside of the 4 inch PVC pipe screw on the 1/4 inch FIP to MIP street elbo, there is just enough threads of the syphoning fitting on the inside of the PVC pipe to screw on this street elbo fitting and point it to the bottom of the container.

http://www.vtxoa.com/images/vac5.JPG

This is done so that the in coming fluid does not splash into the vacuum opening. Now directly on the other side of the PVC pipe from the hole you just drilled, drill another 27/64 inch hole a ½ inch below the 4 inch PVC adapter where it meets the PVC pipe (this hole MUST be above the hole used to syphon fluids!! Tap this hole and screw in the 1/4 inch air valve, now screw in the 3/8 X 1/4 straight compression fitting using pipe joint compound on each.

http://www.vtxoa.com/images/vac6.JPG

Cut one end off the HVAC hose and insert it into the 3/8 inch straight fitting (Note: I had to use a razor blade to shave the outer covering of the hose down to fit inside the compression fitting) a 1/4 inch barbed fitting can be used here along with a hose clamp. Hook the other end of the HVAC hose to the air vacuum pump from Harbor Freight (read instructions supplied with vac. pump). Screw the threaded plug into the 4 inch adapter and you are ready to evacuate some fluids!!

http://www.vtxoa.com/images/vac7.JPG

I used a measuring cup to pour water into the container a cup at a time, then marked the fluid level with a sharpie marker (cups / gallon on one side and fluid ounces on the other side of the clear tubing). The graduation marks makes determining the amount of liquid removed from the container easier.

http://www.vtxoa.com/images/vac8.JPG

NOTE: Thinking about putting a drain valve at the bottom of the vac. container to drain it and only open the 4 inch plug when container requires cleaning??
Last update: 2005-01-24 06:59
Author: Boothtech

Pictures are gone for now, if you know Boothtech or if you see this Boothtech, please send me the pictures or add them to a reply message and I can add them to this.
Thanks,'Spike

[Chicago-Spike]

Removing Baffles from HK 3 inch Pipes

Drill a hole in a stick that will fit into the baffle and insert a screwdriver or chisel. etc......

http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data/3656/2523bafflesticksmall1.JPG

Stick it into the baffle about a foot and give it some pressure with the left hand (downward or upward pressure) to wedge it so it will "bite" and tap it with a hammer or rubber mallet on the chisel to get it moving..

http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data/3656/2523bafflesticksmall2.JPG

If it has never been removed and it has a few miles on it it will take a little more persuasion to get it out so make sure someone holds the bike for you before you get carried away and drop the bike with the pounding. I have done this many times and my bike gives them up pretty easily now! (Yes .... even with a coat hangar!)

http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data/3656/2523bafflesticksmall3.JPG

Good Luck! Hope this helps!
Last update: 2005-06-22 15:45
Author: David

[Chicago-Spike]

Here's a whole list of very Handy Tools for use on your VTX
by Mike "Bareass"

If this write-up helped you then please consider helping support BareassChoppers.com here:http://www.bareasschoppers.com/


Preface
This is a collection of some relatively simple to make tools that make working on the VTX a little easier. Many thanks go out to all those who were innovative enough to have conceived these ideas and then had the decency to offer these ideas so others can benefit from them. If you have any additional homemade tools to add, please let me know (bareass172@hotmail.com) as I'd be interested in adding them here. As always, I'm more than willing to give credit where it's due. If you don't see anyone credited then it's one of my own.


Tank Prop
Courtesy of Biglry
This is a pretty self explanatory item from the pic - EXTREMELY useful as I've used mine too many times to remember.


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/tankprop.jpg


Trailering "blocks"
For those of you who trailer from time to time I put this together to show a quick and easy solution for tying down without compressing front forks. Tying down the front end so it's compressed may make a bike feel solid on a trailer, but it's very bad for springs and seals. Get some scrap lumber, 2x6 or bigger (I've used 2x6 through 2x12 and it all works well). Some guys have this laying around the house, if not check the scrap pile at anything under construction and you should be able to get what you need without spending a dime. As you can see in the second picture below I cut an angle on mine and it doubles as part of my "oil change blocks" (see further down this page).


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/block1.jpg


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/block2.jpg

Measure the width of your frame rails and add at least 4-6 inches to that length. Cut 3 pieces of lumber into those lengths, nail or screw your pieces together and you should be good. When you go to trailer the bike, roll the bike on the trailer and stand it upright, hold the front brake lever and pull back on the bars which will raise the front of the bike a bit. As you do this have someone else slide the block under the frame rails - slightly forward of the center of the frame. When you let go of the brake and the bike rests down it should sit firmly on that block with 2-3 inches extra hanging out to each side. Get off the bike, strap the front and back ends of the bike down like you normally would. Strapping the front from the forks/triple trees and the rear from the passenger peg mounts usually works well for me. When you strap everything down tight it compresses on the block instead of compressing the forks. The bike should be rock solid without compressing the front end at all - not only does this not compress the forks, it actually leaves them slightly extended.

Things to consider:
http://bareasschoppers.com/Pics/dot.gifMy bike rests fine on 3 2x's stacked, but different bikes/shocks/springs make for different frame heights so you may have to adjust from 3 2x's to 2 and a piece of plywood filler to get your height just right - measure and find what works well for your bike. You want it a little taller than the frame sits when level so you have to actually "lift" the front end by locking the front brake.
http://bareasschoppers.com/Pics/dot.gifFrame rail width is dependent on your bike, I didn't want to specify just 1300 or 1800 or just VTX - measure your frame rail width and decide how much extra you feel comfortable with hanging out of each side from under the frame rails. I always recommend at least 2-3 inches on each side just to be safe.
OEM electrical terminal kit
I tracked these down after a talk with JohnnyCheese. I could not find this kit through Honda although I feel certain it exists somewhere buried in the parts fiche. Either way, these are the exact same as the OEM connectors - no more buying cheap connectors at an auto store which don't fit quite right. The kit comes with a wide assortment of various OEM connectors and clear plastic insulating sleeves as well as the proper crimp tool for making good connections. It also contains some of the various plastic OEM plugs used on the bike. It's a little pricey at around $100 or so for the entire kit, but if you do a lot of wiring it's great - you can't distinguish new wiring from old. It can be ordered from any Suzuki parts dealer, either in your town or online - it is Suzuki OEM part #09900-28701.
If you're interested in ordering only specific connectors I have pics and specific part numbers listed below also, they come in packs of 50.


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/termclosed.jpg


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/termopen.jpg


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/socket.jpg
Socket #09900-28701-012 (50/pack) and insulating sleeve #09900-28701-014 (50/pack)


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/spade.jpg
Spade #09900-28701-011 (50/pack)


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/bullet.jpg
Bullet #09900-28701-001 (50/pack) and insulating sleeve #09900-28701-003 (50/pack)


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/sleeve.jpg
Sleeve #09900-28701-002 (50/pack) and insulating sleeve #09900-28701-004 (50/pack)


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/eye.jpg
Eyelet #09900-28701-005 (50/pack) and insulating sleeve #09900-28701-003 (50/pack)


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/smlsocket.jpg
Small socket #09900-28701-010 (50/pack)


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/smlspade.jpg
Small spade #09900-28701-009 (50/pack)


Baffle removal tool
Courtesy of Atadude
This is also a pretty self explanatory item from the pic - very useful in removing those baffles that just don't want to cooperate.


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/baffletool.jpg


Rear drive filler
This is a 60cc syringe with a small piece of flexible hose on the end. Fairly straightforward device that works extremely well for filling the final drive while the bike is on it's sidestand. I chose 60cc because the bike takes approximately 120cc's of fluid to fill it during a normal change, so 2 syringes fills the drive housing perfectly. I also have a much smaller 12cc syringe that I can use when working on the forks to add/remove fluid until I get the level where I want it. I got mine from a doctor friend but you can also try a vet's office or most farm supply stores. They should cost about $2 for the syringe and a few cents more for the plastic hose.


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/syringe.jpg


Oil change 2x6 blocks
I bought an 8' 2x6 and had it cut into 7 pieces. I screwed 4 pieces together to make 2 4x6 blocks and I screwed the remaining 3 together to make a 6x6 block. When changing the oil I can use the lift to raise the bike onto the blocks and then remove the lift. I end up with a 4x6 under the front and rear wheel and a 6x6 under the kickstand to make the bike slightly more upright. It gives me plenty of space to change the oil without scraping my knuckles on the concrete! Recently "Addicted" from the VTXOA (http://www.vtxoa.com/) recommended cutting the ends off the front/rear wheel blocks at an angle so you can drive right onto them. If you cut the kickstand block a little shorter and make the wheel blocks a little longer this would work perfectly.
I also find lots of other uses around the garage for them, like blocking up the rear wheel when I need to remove the shocks, and stuff like that.


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/blocks.jpg


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/blocks1.jpg


Bungee cord wheel "holder"
Pretty straight-forward - when the bikes on the lift the front wheel/forks/etc flop around and can ding the tank depending on what you're doing. String a bungee cord through the front wheel and clip it to each spacer for the forward controls. It will hold everything straight and prevent it from flopping around on you and causing problems.


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/bungee.jpg


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/bungee1.jpg


Cardboard "gasket" templates
This isn't so much a tool as it is a concept. Some of you may have seen me use one of these when I did the Clutch spring swap (http://bareasschoppers.com/clutchspring) write-up. It's basically a quick and easy way to keep track of which bolts go where when working in an environment where you may have different length bolts. Just draw a quick sketch of whichever part your working on and then punch the bolts through as you remove them.


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/cardboard.jpg


Swingarm socket tool
Courtesy of Biglry
This is an idea I got from Biglry. In order to remove/reinstall the swingarm you need to be able to torque down the locknut on the swingarm. This nut is designed like a "castle" nut (for those familiar with them in automotive applications) so you need to either buy or fab your own. The one from the stealer (OEM part# 07908-4690003) will run you about $45, I made this one from a junk 1 1/4" socket I had in my toolbox. It's my understanding that you can make one from a 1 1/8" socket that will work just as well. You can use the locknut itself as a template and grind the socket with a dremel tool or any other tool that will give you the same profile.


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/SAsocket.jpg


17mm "allen" for swingarm and front axle
Courtesy of Lamont
In order to remove/reinstall the swingarm and the front wheel you need a 17mm allen. Now you can jump on Ebay and look for a VW or Porsche oil drain plug socket (these 2 engines required a 17mm allen) and get one for under $10 usually OR you can make this setup recommended by Lamont of the VTXOA (http://www.vtxoa.com/). This is simply a bolt with a 17mm head on it with 2 nuts that thread onto it "locked" together. You can tack a couple of welds on this as well to make sure it doesn't come undone.


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/17mm.jpg


Clutch basket removal tool
Courtesy of Wayde
This tool is made from used clutch steels. Take the stack of used disks, line them up well and weld them together.
(DO NOT TRY TO WELD THEM ON THE CLUTCH BASKET)
Then weld on a piece of strap and an old junk socket.


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/clutchtool1.jpg


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/clutchtool2.jpg


Muffin tin nut/bolt sorter
If you're married don't let the wife catch you on this one!!!
You can usually pick these up for a couple of bucks here and there and they work really well for sorting nuts bolts when you do big projects with too many nuts/bolts to keep track of. I'm smart enough to know that during big projects when I reassemble everything (weeks later sometimes) I'll forget where everything goes. This is a quick and easy way to keep track of everything and where it goes. Drop the parts in a section and jot on it with a permanent marker. When your project is done a little rubbing alcohol or brake/carb cleaner will take the marker right off and you're ready for the next project.


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/tin.jpg


Quick/cheap/easy chrome fix
Courtesy of Wyandotte Kid
This was recommended to me by Wyandotte Kid at the Honda Hoot. I was showing a 240 bike I just completed and being aggravated about some rust that was appearing in/on the bolt heads from some rain we'd ridden through. He was kind enough to walk up and hand me this (see pic below) and offer for me to try it. I was AMAZED to see the rust disappear under this stuff and you could NOT tell that there had ever been anything wrong underneath. Very impressive, very easy, very cheap, a must have in a bike's arsenal if you are meticulous about the bike looking clean all the time.


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/chrome.jpg


Free chrome saver
Courtesy of Jim Travis
Use a piece of plastic from the bags we get parts in - this plastic is heavier than "Saran Wrap" or Ziploc baggies. Before you install/remove a chrome bolt/nut put the plastic over it and then use your tool over it. This will prevent damage to the chrome and as long as you use the correct size tool for the job you won't damage the chrome.


No pic necessary


Fork spring tool
Courtesy of Chet @ Rattlebars (http://www.rattlebars.com/)
This is an item Chet has posted in his write-up on changing the fork springs which can be seen here (http://www.rattlebars.com/vtx/forktools.html). I fabbed my own using a piece of pipe that adhered to Chet's specs and I welded an old socket into the end to give me a 1/2" drive socket. It replaces Honda OEM part# 07VMA-MZ0010A which costs a little less than $30 if you buy one.
After speaking with a machinist friend I was informed that the pipe I used is actually nothing more than 1 1/4" schedule 40 pipe, available at most home stores. It has a 1.5" ID (inside diameter) and a 1.76" OD (outside diameter). There are 4 tabs equally spaced, .265" wide and .156 tall. Please keep in mind I am no machinist so these figures are pretty close based on multiple readings with a caliper but they may not be exact. They are definitely close enough for the tool to work though.


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/forktool.jpg


Fork seal driver
Courtesy of Chet @ Rattlebars (http://www.rattlebars.com/)
These pics are completely self-explanatory - this is just a cheap and easy substitute to buying the Honda tool.


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/forksealdriver.jpg


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/forksealdriver2.jpg


Fork spring compressor tool
Courtesy of Coyote7864
These pics show a neat way to compress the left fork spring when using the "special" fork spring tool mentioned above. This can sometimes be a pretty tough job, especially if you're working by yourself - making a tool like this makes the job EASY!

http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/comp1.jpg
http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/comp2.jpg


http://bareasschoppers.com/tools/comp3.jpg