harcosparky
12-12-2008, 03:09 PM
Since there was a question on the Tech board and maybe an unnecessary return of the bars by another user I thought I would post the step by step here.
If anyone see what they might thing is an error, let me know. If it is than I will change the write up. If it's just a difference in methodology, probably not - but would include the alternate method.
At FIRST GLANCE to me it did not look like the Cobra Bars were gonna fit. Looking at the instruction picture and the bike. But then I read, and reread the instructions while looking at the bike.
Then on SECOND GLANCE I thought it out. The picture in the instructions is a bit out of scale. There IS a plate below the upper radiator bolt that has the two holes for the cross bracket. If I remember all that I did in the correct order here goes .......
1) Removed the UPPER Radiator Bolt , Loosened the LOWER radiator bolts.
**** Cobra said to remove all three just to lean out the top of the radiator - I figure no need to remove the bottom ones, just get the ALMOST all the way out.
2) Pulled top of radiator away from bike - this did not make it easier to see the holes in the frame for the Cobra bracket but IT MUST BE DONE to get the bracket in properly.
3) Slid bracket between radiator and frame.
4 )Now to THINK !!!!!!! looking at all the mounting points I realized the LOWER brackets that hook to the floorboard mount bolt were FIXED and could not move. The TOP of the Highway bars are pulled into the bracket but the BUTTON HEAD BOLTS.
5 ) Installed the two FLANGED HEAD BOLTS through the holes in the frame to the bracket. DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM AT THIS POINT - get them snug - remember I said the tops of the bars would be pulled into this bracket - there is a lot of play in the bracket mount - I decided the smart thing to do is ....
Tighten the lower mounting bolts FIRST - the two upper BUTTON HEAD bolts SECOND - The two FLANGE BOLTS in the bracket LAST - this will allow the tops of the bars to be pulled into the brackets and allow the bracket to 'position it self'. Tightening the flange bolts last prevents either side of the bars to be pulled too much one way of the other.
NOTE - getting a ratchet on the flange bolts isn't real easy - not much room between the bolt head and engine. This become evident if you snug down one side before doing the other. I tightened the bolt with an open end wrench initially alternating back and forth. Once I had both bolts in close to tight I was able to work a ratchet on them to finish the task.
ALSO - not much room between bracket and bars when tightening the button head bolts. I used an open end wrench to hold the nut and turned the bolt with an allen wrench.
Hope this helps anyone else who may be considering these bars.
Not an easy task, but not difficult either.
All told, took me maybe an hour in my rain soaked gravel driveway!!!
If anyone see what they might thing is an error, let me know. If it is than I will change the write up. If it's just a difference in methodology, probably not - but would include the alternate method.
At FIRST GLANCE to me it did not look like the Cobra Bars were gonna fit. Looking at the instruction picture and the bike. But then I read, and reread the instructions while looking at the bike.
Then on SECOND GLANCE I thought it out. The picture in the instructions is a bit out of scale. There IS a plate below the upper radiator bolt that has the two holes for the cross bracket. If I remember all that I did in the correct order here goes .......
1) Removed the UPPER Radiator Bolt , Loosened the LOWER radiator bolts.
**** Cobra said to remove all three just to lean out the top of the radiator - I figure no need to remove the bottom ones, just get the ALMOST all the way out.
2) Pulled top of radiator away from bike - this did not make it easier to see the holes in the frame for the Cobra bracket but IT MUST BE DONE to get the bracket in properly.
3) Slid bracket between radiator and frame.
4 )Now to THINK !!!!!!! looking at all the mounting points I realized the LOWER brackets that hook to the floorboard mount bolt were FIXED and could not move. The TOP of the Highway bars are pulled into the bracket but the BUTTON HEAD BOLTS.
5 ) Installed the two FLANGED HEAD BOLTS through the holes in the frame to the bracket. DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM AT THIS POINT - get them snug - remember I said the tops of the bars would be pulled into this bracket - there is a lot of play in the bracket mount - I decided the smart thing to do is ....
Tighten the lower mounting bolts FIRST - the two upper BUTTON HEAD bolts SECOND - The two FLANGE BOLTS in the bracket LAST - this will allow the tops of the bars to be pulled into the brackets and allow the bracket to 'position it self'. Tightening the flange bolts last prevents either side of the bars to be pulled too much one way of the other.
NOTE - getting a ratchet on the flange bolts isn't real easy - not much room between the bolt head and engine. This become evident if you snug down one side before doing the other. I tightened the bolt with an open end wrench initially alternating back and forth. Once I had both bolts in close to tight I was able to work a ratchet on them to finish the task.
ALSO - not much room between bracket and bars when tightening the button head bolts. I used an open end wrench to hold the nut and turned the bolt with an allen wrench.
Hope this helps anyone else who may be considering these bars.
Not an easy task, but not difficult either.
All told, took me maybe an hour in my rain soaked gravel driveway!!!