Exhaust Vance And Hines Big Shots!

[Shaddow350]

I decided to get me the V&H Big Shots Exhaust.
Some say I need to re-jet I have the K&N filter and people also have told me to remove the Pear Valve.
What is this and how do you remove it and also how can I re-Jet myself??
Let me know thanks for all your time.
8)

[Drywallman]

First, let me welcome you to our board. Here's a link you might be interested in http://www.rwmillerandsons.com/Riley/Mu ... ersExh.htm (http://www.rwmillerandsons.com/Riley/MufflerExhaust/ChapterMufflersExh.htm)

Stay in touch with our utah board for updates on events and rides. Hopefully winter won't last long :D .
Drywallman

[ILuv_UMan]

Check these guys out, for modifying your stock OEM pipes.

Looks like an awful lot of work and specialized machinery, to do it correctly.

http://vtxexhaust.com/

[Wilsondude]

I tried drilling the stock exhaust on my 1800 R and was initially happy with the results, but realized it created some concerns. Both my gas mileage and performance suffered. If you plan on making mods yourself, make sure you know what the heck your'e doin'! Ask lots of questions on this board (DrywallMan is a stud). And by the way, welcome! Lots of good guys here.

[Shaddow350]

I decided to go with the V&H BIg Shots.
I picked them up from a guy I know for 411.00 Brand New.
I hope everything will go ok on the install. Wish me luck lol. :? :shock:

[Drywallman]

Your going to need help, They are a real b$tch to get on. Need to have some hold the back while you get the front two pipes in the ports. I've done it by my self but it's a real bear.
Don't forget to replaced you exhaust gaskets, their crush type so it doesn't look like you have any thing in the port, but they are there, just flat.
One other thing I would do, is to install a flat washer under your acorn nuts. That way your nuts won't bottom out before the torque value is met. Besides after you ride it a bit you need to retorque your nuts (After it cools). You'll find that they will be loose and not at Torque. I retorque mine a few times untill they stayed at torqued value. Good luck!
Drywallman

[Shaddow350]

Your going to need help, They are a real b$tch to get on. Need to have some hold the back while you get the front two pipes in the ports. I've done it by my self but it's a real bear.
Don't forget to replaced you exhaust gaskets, their crush type so it doesn't look like you have any thing in the port, but they are there, just flat.
One other thing I would do, is to install a flat washer under your acorn nuts. That way your nuts won't bottom out before the torque value is met. Besides after you ride it a bit you need to retorque your nuts (After it cools). You'll find that they will be loose and not at Torque. I retorque mine a few times untill they stayed at torqued value. Good luck!
Drywallman
Which ones are the Acorn Nuts? And I am having a HELL Of a time trying to get these stock gaskets off! Any Help there? And do you mean put washers on the nuts that hold the top two placed of the pipes? I hope there are other places that hold the pipe on instead of just the top 4 nuts :oops:
I guess I will see tomorrow when I pick them up but I cant get my stock gaskets off! THERE A PAIN I have broke 2 pocket knives and also 3 kitchen forks LOL
Any Help on getting them off? :oops:

[Drywallman]

Your going to need help, They are a real b$tch to get on. Need to have some hold the back while you get the front two pipes in the ports. I've done it by my self but it's a real bear.
Don't forget to replaced you exhaust gaskets, their crush type so it doesn't look like you have any thing in the port, but they are there, just flat.
One other thing I would do, is to install a flat washer under your acorn nuts. That way your nuts won't bottom out before the torque value is met. Besides after you ride it a bit you need to retorque your nuts (After it cools). You'll find that they will be loose and not at Torque. I retorque mine a few times untill they stayed at torqued value. Good luck!
Drywallman
Which ones are the Acorn Nuts? And I am having a HELL Of a time trying to get these stock gaskets off! Any Help there? And do you mean put washers on the nuts that hold the top two placed of the pipes? I hope there are other places that hold the pipe on instead of just the top 4 nuts :oops:
I guess I will see tomorrow when I pick them up but I cant get my stock gaskets off! THERE A PAIN I have broke 2 pocket knives and also 3 kitchen forks LOL
Any Help on getting them off? :oops:
PM me with your address and phone number and I'll come over and give you a hand. Will get'er done.
Drywallman

[Wilsondude]

Not much help here, but I've got a pair of new gaskets you can have if you want. I know they're easy to get; let me know if you want em. Thanks, DrywallMan for reminding me to tighten those bolts after installation.

[ILuv_UMan]

Not much help here, but I've got a pair of new gaskets you can have if you want. I know they're easy to get; let me know if you want em. Thanks, DrywallMan for reminding me to tighten those bolts after installation.

Actually, what you want to do, is tighten the bolts snugly (not up to specs though). Than drive your scooter and get everything warm and up to normal running temperature. Than return and tighten them up to proper torgue specifications.

I changed my pipes and air filter on my Shadow Spirit, which was carberated. After the changes, no adjustment to to carberators was necessary. Luckily on the 1300 you only have one carberator if rejetting is needed. Always put on the accessories and than decide if re-jetting is necessary. Shadow Spirits have 2 Carberators. Much more work and the synchronization, can be a bit$h.

[Drywallman]

Not much help here, but I've got a pair of new gaskets you can have if you want. I know they're easy to get; let me know if you want em. Thanks, DrywallMan for reminding me to tighten those bolts after installation.

Actually, what you want to do, is tighten the bolts snugly (not up to specs though). Than drive your scooter and get everything warm and up to normal running temperature. Than return and tighten them up to proper torgue specifications.

I changed my pipes and air filter on my Shadow Spirit, which was carberated. After the changes, no adjustment to to carberators was necessary. Luckily on the 1300 you only have one carberator if rejetting is needed. Always put on the accessories and than decide if re-jetting is necessary. Shadow Spirits have 2 Carberators. Much more work and the synchronization, can be a bit$h.
Stongly disagree with the statement of snugging the nuts then running your bike, the chance of burning your new gaskets are pretty great if you do this IMHO. If your deform your gaskets with heat and blow-by it may result in an permanent exhaust leak my .02 worth.
Drywallman

[Drywallman]

You got a PM

[ILuv_UMan]

Not much help here, but I've got a pair of new gaskets you can have if you want. I know they're easy to get; let me know if you want em. Thanks, DrywallMan for reminding me to tighten those bolts after installation.

Actually, what you want to do, is tighten the bolts snugly (not up to specs though). Than drive your scooter and get everything warm and up to normal running temperature. Than return and tighten them up to proper torgue specifications.

I changed my pipes and air filter on my Shadow Spirit, which was carberated. After the changes, no adjustment to to carberators was necessary. Luckily on the 1300 you only have one carberator if rejetting is needed. Always put on the accessories and than decide if re-jetting is necessary. Shadow Spirits have 2 Carberators. Much more work and the synchronization, can be a bit$h.
Stongly disagree with the statement of snugging the nuts then running your bike, the chance of burning your new gaskets are pretty great if you do this IMHO. If your deform your gaskets with heat and blow-by it may result in an permanent exhaust leak my .02 worth.
Drywallman

Drywallman:

I don't mean for an hour. I mean around the block, maybe a couple times. Just enough to let the gasket wiggle around and get the engine up to operating temperature. Helps gaskets fall in place. We always use to do that on our Moto-cross bikes when working on expansion chambers, exhaust mods. Couple of my moto-cross buddies are motorcycle wrenches, who allege they are in the know. That's where I got the above information. Has always worked for me.

I would presume the same would apply to 4 strokers. I guess, I could research and see if there has been a post on such, but not sure it's worth the effort. If you want to crank those bolts up, while the engine is cold, go for it.

[Drywallman]

Not much help here, but I've got a pair of new gaskets you can have if you want. I know they're easy to get; let me know if you want em. Thanks, DrywallMan for reminding me to tighten those bolts after installation.

Actually, what you want to do, is tighten the bolts snugly (not up to specs though). Than drive your scooter and get everything warm and up to normal running temperature. Than return and tighten them up to proper torgue specifications.

I changed my pipes and air filter on my Shadow Spirit, which was carberated. After the changes, no adjustment to to carberators was necessary. Luckily on the 1300 you only have one carberator if rejetting is needed. Always put on the accessories and than decide if re-jetting is necessary. Shadow Spirits have 2 Carberators. Much more work and the synchronization, can be a bit$h.
Stongly disagree with the statement of snugging the nuts then running your bike, the chance of burning your new gaskets are pretty great if you do this IMHO. If your deform your gaskets with heat and blow-by it may result in an permanent exhaust leak my .02 worth.
Drywallman

Drywallman:

I don't mean for an hour. I mean around the block, maybe a couple times. Just enough to let the gasket wiggle around and get the engine up to operating temperature. Helps gaskets fall in place. We always use to do that on our Moto-cross bikes when working on expansion chambers, exhaust mods. Couple of my moto-cross buddies are motorcycle wrenches, who allege they are in the know. That's where I got the above information. Has always worked for me.

I would presume the same would apply to 4 strokers. I guess, I could research and see if there has been a post on such, but not sure it's worth the effort. If you want to crank those bolts up, while the engine is cold, go for it.
I used to race motocross when I was young as well. Rebuilt my bikes all the time when I used to blow them up. The gaskets we used to use were not the crush type that they have now. Once you start to crush the gasket there is no turning back. The gasket seats and conforms to the object that is in contact with. You don't want it to wiggle around, that would make and create leaks, besides if it's wiggling it's leaking and leaks are not good.
Drywallman

[ILuv_UMan]

I guess, I didn't explain, what I was trying to say very well. http://www.improvingsex.com/smileys/confused.gif Yes, I know the difference between crush washers and regular washers (however I continue to use the same drain plug washer :shock: ).

As I recall, I think the torgue on the exhuasts are 17 ft. lbs. I'd take those bolts up to like 15 foot lbs. or whatever it takes to crush the washer and get a firm fit. Than warm up my bike, ride around the block a couple times and than crank it up to the 17 foot lbs. After a couple days of riding, I'd recheck the torgue again. After a couple weeks, I'd recheck them again, also.

I didn't mean to say, that you wouldn't crush the washers from the get go. I meant to say, I just wouldn't take them up to full torque specs, without warming up the engine and riding around for a couple minutes. Anyway, that is what I have been told, by wrenchers, is the best way to seat crush exhaust gaskets.

http://www.improvingsex.com/smileys/action2.gif

[ILuv_UMan]

Had some time, during lunch and did a thorough search of this topic. I could find nothing, regarding my understanding of tightening and than tightening up more after warm up of exhaust gaskets.

I did see where Bareass, said to ride for a couple days and retighten exhaust gaskets/washers and make sure they were up to the 17 ft. lbs of torgue after an installation.

My misunderstanding. Thanks Drywallman for the heads up and taking the time to set me straight. :?

[Drywallman]

Had some time, during lunch and did a thorough search of this topic. I could find nothing, regarding my understanding of tightening and than tightening up more after warm up of exhaust gaskets.

I did see where Bareass, said to ride for a couple days and retighten exhaust gaskets/washers and make sure they were up to the 17 ft. lbs of torgue after an installation.

My misunderstanding. Thanks Drywallman for the heads up and taking the time to set me straight. :?
No problem. OPinions vary :wink: , thats what makes us a great nation.

[Shaddow350]

Would it be better to run my stock air filter with my stock air box with my new pipes?
Or I am now running my stock air box with a K&N in it.
I don't seem to get much backfire yet but last night my buddy drove my bike and got it to backfire he says.
I still can't get it to but what would you suggest or do I just need to get a Jet Kit.
I don't want to unless I really have to. :oops:
I would like to thank Drywallman for all his knowledge and kindness and also TIPS!
Thanks Drywallman :wink:
I decided to keep my 1300C and then maybe do a bit of an upgrade in the near future. I am only 25 and getting married on May 20th so I thought it would be smart and not get in debt. My bike is paid off with only 1300 miles on it.
Although I do not have a torque wrench and did not put on the washers where you told me to would it be hard on the nuts to take them off again and the put washers on the bike and then also torque them down again I herd 14 lbs is what is supposto be.
Let me know what you think. Thanks all and SAFE RIDING!

[ILuv_UMan]

Would it be better to run my stock air filter with my stock air box with my new pipes?
Or I am now running my stock air box with a K&N in it.
I don't seem to get much backfire yet but last night my buddy drove my bike and got it to backfire he says.
I still can't get it to but what would you suggest or do I just need to get a Jet Kit.
I don't want to unless I really have to. :oops:
I would like to thank Drywallman for all his knowledge and kindness and also TIPS!
Thanks Drywallman :wink:
I decided to keep my 1300C and then maybe do a bit of an upgrade in the near future. I am only 25 and getting married on May 20th so I thought it would be smart and not get in debt. My bike is paid off with only 1300 miles on it.
Although I do not have a torque wrench and did not put on the washers where you told me to would it be hard on the nuts to take them off again and the put washers on the bike and then also torque them down again I herd 14 lbs is what is supposto be.
Let me know what you think. Thanks all and SAFE RIDING!

Some backfiring (decal popping) is normal. You just don't hear it on a stock OEM bike, because they have them muffled to the max to prevent you from hearing it. If it does it a lot, you'll have to rejet after you check for leaks. Check out this webpage string on the 1300 tech board.. http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/viewtopic.p ... ing+normal (http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=962&highlight=backfiring+normal)

As to whether your running a stock air filter or a K&N Filter in your stock air box is something you'll need to answer. Running a K&N filter will allow your bike to be more free flowing. I've always had K&N filters on every bike I've ever owned. The best IMO and you only need to clean them every 50k miles :)

[Drywallman]

Would it be better to run my stock air filter with my stock air box with my new pipes?
Or I am now running my stock air box with a K&N in it.
I don't seem to get much backfire yet but last night my buddy drove my bike and got it to backfire he says.
I still can't get it to but what would you suggest or do I just need to get a Jet Kit.
I don't want to unless I really have to. :oops:
I would like to thank Drywallman for all his knowledge and kindness and also TIPS!
Thanks Drywallman :wink:
I decided to keep my 1300C and then maybe do a bit of an upgrade in the near future. I am only 25 and getting married on May 20th so I thought it would be smart and not get in debt. My bike is paid off with only 1300 miles on it.
Although I do not have a torque wrench and did not put on the washers where you told me to would it be hard on the nuts to take them off again and the put washers on the bike and then also torque them down again I herd 14 lbs is what is supposto be.
Let me know what you think. Thanks all and SAFE RIDING!

I take it that you did find the old gaskets in the exhaust ports and that you did remove them.

Ok with that said, Yes, take off the nuts may be one at a time and install a washer under it. (Make an Investment in a torque wrench.) Then when you get both nuts and washers on then retoque the nuts to 17 ft LBS. Will doing the change don't move your pipes, we want the gaskets to stay right where they are.

After you finish that ride around for a while and then when it cools down cold retorque again to 17 ft LBS. Double check to make sure you have no exhaust leak with a cig or a stick of incents burning near the exhaust port while the bike is running. If the smoke is blowing away you have a leak and you need to replace your gaskets again :cry: .

As far as an air filter, Yes get a K&N Filter if your going to stay with the stock intake. With your new pipes air is getting out just fine with hardly any restictions, but you need more air getting in so that you motor will breath better. It's like this, constrick your air way in your thoat and prevent a lot of air in then blow out normal. You'll starve for air, that's what your engine is doing. With more air in your bike will feel better.

Now as far as decell poping, True some decel poping is not going to hurt you bike. But if you want to get rid of it, Desmog is the way to go. Plug up the reed valves so air doesn't get into you exahaust port and remove you Pair valve and system. That also opens up you stock airbox and allows more air in through you filter.

Decel poping didn't start with my bike right away after I changed my pipes. It started after about 2 or 3 rides. Oh, and no I didn't Desmog at that time. Go down the freeway for a little while at a steady speed and then get off the freeway and start down shifting. It may start poping. If not thats good for you.

Hope this helps. If you need help just hit the PM button and let me know.
Drywallman