View Full Version : Zym's Retro Mod Log
I'll use this to post mods, changes, etc, instead of routine maintenance.
2003 Honda VTX 1800 Retro, metallic silver (?)
Purchased new in July 2004 (yes, one of the "good deals").
Bought the Hondaline windshield and lightbar setup at the time of purchase. This is how it looked:
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=196&pictureid=809
Edit: this is the latest version for comparison.....
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=196&pictureid=10908
October 2004
Did the ground fix recommended by others on the board. I used the write-up in the VTX Tech Knowledgebase:
http://tech.vtxoa.com/index.php?action=artikel&cat=14&id=33&artlang=en
I hadn't had any problems and, upon inspection, didn't find any corrosion or loose connections. However, I tended to all three ground points outlined for peace of mind. Only hard part is the ground point under the tank - talk about needing skinny fingers!
December 2004
I really didn't like the looks of the large Hondaline driving lights. Although they really lit up the road, they just didn't look that good next to the visored VTX headlight. I wanted something to more closely match the visored look. Same with the stock Honda turn signals.
I liked the looks of Kuryakyn silver bullets - they closely matched the lines of the VTX headlight. But, when I started pricing, whew! They are proud of those lights.
Then I looked at the Big Bike / Show Chrome lights. They looked similar but at almost half the price of the Kurys. As if by magic, Santa delivered a pair of the larger 50w units for use as running/driving lights and a pair of the smaller 20w units for use as front turn signals.
http://hondadirectlineusa.com/stores/product.asp?pid=1895&str=11&ID=867283618
http://hondadirectlineusa.com/stores/product.asp?pid=1212&str=11&ID=867283618
I decided if these worked out alright, I would get a set of the small ones for the rear turn signals too.
I removed the Honda spots from the lightbar and the stock front turn signals which were mounted under the lightbar. All connections were inside the headlamp housing.
I had to drill out the existing holes in the lightbar to mount these lights. In the end, I ended up mounting the turn signals on top of the bar in the front holes and the driving lights below the bar in the rear holes. Make sure that water cannot penetrate into the lamps through wiring. Where the wiring left the lightbar and into the headlamp, I used that plastic split wire loom to keep them together and make it look neater.
The stock Honda front turn signals also functioned as running lights. I lost this with the installation of the new lights since they are only single filiment lamps. But, since I normally keep the driving lights on, I didn't feel that I lost any visibility.
I like the look much better than the "police cruiser" lights.
Have had both 50w driving lamps replaced - I went with 35w lamps to reduce the current draw somewhat. Still seem plenty bright. BTW, these lamps (the larger units) can be purchased at Lowes. The lamps are MR-16 and can be had in various wattages and beam spreads. When installing new lamps, make sure you clean them up with alcohol swabs to remove any oils left from your fingers during installation - or else, they'll blow quick!
Haven't had any problems with the front turn signals at all.
January 2005
Santa was good to me. :D
After looking at saddlebags, I thought I'd try something less expensive than what I really wanted (which was hard bags). I went with the Willy & Max bags - grey and black with matching toolbag:
http://buywillieandmax.com/prod_images_large/2006_7451.jpghttp://buywillieandmax.com/prod_images_large/245blowup.gif
To mount the saddlebag, I installed Cobra saddlebag supports.
http://hondadirectlineusa.com/stores/product.asp?pid=4475&str=11&ID=1039968543
These installed easily. Only thing I didn't like was the fact that the supports kicked out the bottom of the bags too far. I remedied this with a 2x4 until the bags hung more vertically.
I wanted the bags mounted semi-permanently rather than throwing them over the seat. I found a thread on the 1300 board that addressed this:
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=38048&highlight=mount+saddlebags
I modified this mounting system somewhat and it has worked well. However, I still lose precious cargo space inside the bags because the bolts are longer than I want (I'll deal with that on my next mod). Here's a pic of the backside of the bags showing how they're mounted:
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=196&pictureid=833
The toolbag was supposed to mount under the headlight, but I found that it hung on the front fender. There really wasn't a good place to mount it.
Through reading the forums, I find out that Kuryakyn makes a mounting bracket for installing these above the handlebars. But, being the cheapskate that I am, I opted to try to make my own.
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=196&pictureid=828
It mounts under the handlebar riser instead of under the handlebar clamp as the Kury unit does. Made a template from cardboard until it fit the way I wanted. Transferred this to a piece of aluminum plate (an old sign) and cut it out, bent it, and polished it. Not quite as nice as chrome steel but it's not too visible.
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=196&pictureid=829
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=196&pictureid=830
January 2005
Looking for something to add to the plain fenders, I bought a roll of gold pinstriping tape and cut pieces to fit in the indentations on the front and rear fenders. Make sure the area is clean and de-waxed before applying the pinstriping. Adds just a touch of something different. I'm trying to add a few gold accents along the bike.
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=196&pictureid=834
January 2005
Did the de-smog as outlined in BIGLRY's website. It was pretty simple to do and sure cleaned up the "mess". I did not install block-off plates over the read valves and now wish I had. One of the rubber caps I installed over the reed valve tubes came off on me about the time I rolled into Sturgis and had my bike sounding like a high-powered popcorn popper!
:shock:
I will install the block-off plates this winter.
March 2005
Years ago, I had a Virago which I replaced the fork springs on and was very impressed with the changes in handling. So, I ordered a set of Progressive fork springs for the VTX and replaced the existing stockers. Used the article from Bare's site to help me select which springs to use and how to replace them:
http://www.bareasschoppers.com/forksprings
I chose to use the forksprings for the VTX instead of the Goldwing springs. Ended up making a forktool from a piece of steel pipe which worked pretty well.
This is one of the best mods around and the springs were less than $100. No more mushy, wishy-washy front end handling - I was tickled!
:D
March 2005
I just had to have one of these:
http://hondadirectlineusa.com/pics/9026.jpg
http://hondadirectlineusa.com/stores/product.asp?pid=1344&str=11&ID=1039980860
Only caveat was that I had to drill a hole in the front fender. But, I intend to keep it there. Ran wiring for his little lighted eyes up the brake line and into the headlight housing which plugged into one of the un-used terminals from my stock turn signal running lights. Touch of gold!
April 2005
The license plate holder on the Retro comes from the factory looking like a billboard. It's a one-size-fits-all for the different size plates. I had wanted a simpler layed-down look.
There are aftermarket plate holders available that are reasonably priced and look good. But, I thought I'd try something myself.
I bought a simple chrome license plate frame from Wally World for $5. Removed the existing billboard holder - 3 bolts. I then cut out a piece of aluminum plate to fit just behind the plate frame using a table saw with carbide tipped blade and rounded the corners and dressed the edges. Drilled three holes to match the spacings on the plate bracket on the fender. Then polished the aluminum plate. When installed, it's hard to see the back (forward side) of the plate anyway. Fastened the plate to the bracket with button head screws - these allow the license plate to lay down closely without bulging from hex bolts. Install the cheap frame using chrome bolts and acorn nuts.
That's it - a simple layed down license plate for a few bucks. Only negative is that the plate will not get lit up as well due to being angled back away from the light.
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=196&pictureid=836
September 2005
Decided to cut the stock rear shocks to lower the bike a little bit.
To raise the bike up, I used a combination of 2x blocks under the right side frame while parked until I couldn't get any more blocks underneath, then stood the bike up off the kickstand and slid the same number of blocks under the left side frame. This got my rear wheel off the ground and the weight off the shocks.
I'm going to have to get a motorcycle lift and stand if I do much more of this stuff.
I used the following thread as a guide for this mod .. very helpful:
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=45643&highlight=shorten+stock+shocks
Removed and worked on only one shock at a time so I wouldn't have problems lining things back up.
To disassemble the shocks requires that they be compressed to remove the top nut. I built a frame to do this:
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/shockcompressorframe.jpg
Anyone else trying this, make darn sure it's built STOUT! Lots of tension involved here! Don't need anyone seriously injuring themselves. I used a 10 ton bottle jack and was comfortable with the controlled compression and release.
After the spring was removed, I decided to bite the bullet and to remove two full coils from the closely-wound end of the springs. To cut the coils, throw away the hack saws ... and, don't try cutting them with 36" bolt cutters either:
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/boltcutter.jpg
:oops:
I ended up using a 12" cut-off saw with a metal cutting blade. It cut the coils really quick and neat. I applied primer on the cut ends of the coils before reinstalling them.
Reassemble the shock and install.
I took a bunch of measurements when I did this such as seat height before and after, etc., but can't find it now. Regardless, seat height is about 1-1/2" lower than stock. I'm much more comfortable at a stop and able to flat-foot the beast now. I'm sure that I've lost additional cornering clearance but I'm not the canyon-carver type anyway. Of course, ride stiffness increased somewhat but is still very tolerable. I'm very satisified with the results of this mod.
September 2005
Trimmed down the Hondaline windshield to reduce frontal area. After a year of riding, I was aware that the windshield was taller than it needed to be. Plus, I was always looking through the windshield instead of over it. I verified this by, while riding, raising my left hand above my helmet to determine where the airstream was in relation to the top of helmet. I wanted the windshield shortened enough to have the airstream just graze the top of my helmet. This looked to be about 1-1/2".
I removed the windshield, brackets and all, from the bike. Then, I layed some wide painter's tape all around the perimeter of the shield to protect it from scratching while cutting and to provide a surface on which to mark for cutting. I marked a line which parallelled the top edge. I also decided to remove 1" from each side to narrow the shield a little bit, so, I marked those edges also. Ended up removing the "cut-out" for the turn signals.
Cutting was performed using a sabre saw with a metal cutting blade. Cut very smooth. Here's a pic showing how much was removed:
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/windshieldcut.jpg
After cutting, I used a file to smooth and round the cut edges and sandpaper in increasingly finer grits polish it up until it looked like it came that way from the factory.
After reinstalling and test riding, I found that the airstream just touches the top of my helmet - just the way I wanted it. I can now see over the windshield and can still crouch down slightly for protection during rain. However, cutting down the sides (making it narrower) have reduced the protection at the handlebar ends - not too bad but noticeable. The windshield looks much trimmer now too.
Another satisfied mod! :D
December 2005
In preparation for installing hard bags on my Retro, I knew I had to forego the staggered duels in order to mount the bags low enough to look decent. Since I recently retired and am, therefore, on a fixed income now, I couldn't afford another big cash layout like I had buying the bags. Very lucky for me, my bro-in-law offered me his set of C pipes since he'd already gotten the HK sideburners. Yes, family is nice!
You'd think that installing C model pipes on a Retro would be a simple bolt-on. It's close but no cigar. The right floorboard of the Retro is not installed on the frame as far forward as the forward controls of the C model are and, thus, the point of interference. But, it's not too difficult to come up with a fix.
The original staggered duels came off first - very easy.
Then, I tried to test fit the C pipes. Unfortunately, the right floorboard bracket was right in the way. So, I removed the floorboard bracket to allow the front pipe to fit. The rear pipe was no problemo. When I tried to reinstall the floorboard, I found that it would not go on at all with the front pipe installed. I determined the point of interference and decided that the floorboard bracket could be cut in the back to allow clearance for the front pipe.
After several times of fit and re-fit of both the floorboard and the pipes, I finally ground off sufficient material to allow the floorboard bracket to fit. Doesn't appear like there'll be any compromising of the strength of the bracket - still looks stout enough.
Also, had to cut the "tail" of the floorboard bracket off to clear the pipe. This piece doesn't look like it serves any purpose other than to shield the brake switch from above anyway. Of course, I'm sure there's a Honda engineer somewhere saying "no cut! no cut!"
The following picture shows where the bracket was modified:
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/rightfloorboardmod.GIF
Of course, make sure you re-paint the bracket properly to keep from rusting.
When installing or reinstalling everything, I've found that I have to loosen up the floorboard bracket significantly to allow the pipes to be removed or installed. And, if removing or installing the floorboard bracket, the pipes need to be loosened up. Both have to happen at once now. Be sure to install new exhaust gaskets. I didn't remember removing or seeing either of them and it wasn't until I had everything installed and operating that I had exhaust leaks where the pipes fit into the exhaust ports. Which meant remove and reinstall everything again!
After installing the pipes and floorboard bracket, I still found interference between the brake pedal and a bolt holding on the front pipe chrome guard. Ended up grinding a quarter inch off the bolt. Make darn sure the brake pedal operates correctly and that the brake light switch works as required. Those brakes are kinda important! :wink:
Kind of hard to see but the following pics show the installed modified floorboard bracket:
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/floorboard_bracket_top.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/floorboard_bracket_bottom.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/floorboard_bracket_rear.jpg
One more thing I found was that after fitting the muffler onto the pipes, the muffler mounting holes did not match those of the Retro muffler mounting bracket. After looking at the microfiches of both bikes, I found the muffler brackets differ between bikes. Instead of buying and installing a C model muffler bracket, I decided to make a simple bracket which allowed the C muffler to be installed. I made a cardboard template of the shape I wanted, marked the hole locations, and transferred this to a piece of scrap aluminum plate. I used the stock mounting bolts to fasten the simple bracket to the muffler bracket and stainless steel bolts to fasten the muffler to the simple bracket. Not terribly pretty to look at but it's not greatly visible unless you're laying on the pavement looking at it.
Here is a picture of the mounting bracket:
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/mufflerbracket.jpg
While I had the muffler off, I decided to do something temporarily to punch up the exhaust note until I can get a vtxexaust.com setup or something else. I used the following thread as a guide:
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=97642&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Exhaust note is now slightly deeper than stock. It's good for me although I'll probably end up getting something a little louder.
Overall, I'm satisfied with the installation. Looks like it's factory stock. More importantly, I can now install those beautiful hard bags!
:D
December 2005
Having received my new color-matched Tsukayu hard bags, I was looking forward to installing them. I had a pair of Willie & Max bags which were a throw-over style. I modified them to mount directly onto the saddlebag brackets and could be removeable. It worked but wasn't a really elegant solution. That, and the fact that these bags just didn't compliment the contours of the bike. And, I got tired of fighting the lid straps every time I opened and closed them.
After closely following all the threads pertaining to these bags, I went ahead and ordered the Strong bags. The price was very appealing.
That said, sometimes you get what you pay for.
After further research and after receiving my new bags to test fit, I found that a couple of things had to happen to install these bags so that they'd look good on the bike instead of looking like an add-on:
1. They won't fit above the staggered duals on the Retros without sticking up way higher than the fender. The exhaust system would have to change.
2. The stock rear turn signals would have to be relocated or changed to allow the bags to be positioned as close to the fender strut as possible.
I changed out my staggered duals for a stock set of C-model pipes as I've outlined in an earlier thread.
I changed out the rear turn signals with Show Chrome bullets. I'll outline this mod in a later thread.
For the most part, I used the installation instructions that are available from the Tsukayu website.
I found that the contents of the bag of stainless steel hardware did not contain the pieces I needed for a complete installation. There were no spacers to fit in the recesses of the fender struts to allow the brackets to be installed squarely on the struts. There were no 10mm bolts to attach the front brackets either. So, I ordered up some more stainless steel metric bolts along with various sized washers.
This would be a good place to mention that, when getting the 10mm bolts, be sure to get the correct thread pitch - 1.25. Don't ask me how I know that. :oops:
So, if purchasing hardware, this is what I ended up using:
To attach front brackets to fender struts:
2 - 10x50-1.25 hex bolt (not included)
2 - 10mm (3/8"?) spacers (not included, see below)
To attach rear brackets to fender struts:
2 - 8x50-1.25 hex bolt
2 - 8mm (5/16"?) spacers (not included, see below)
To attach cases to front brackets:
4 - 8mm washers
4 - 8mm rubber washers
4 - 8x20-1.25 hex bolt
To attach cases to rear brackets:
4 - 8mm washers
4 - 8mm rubber washers
4 - 8mm spacers
4 - 8x40-1.25 hex bolt (not included)
Since I can't find the measurements for the spacers I used between the brackets and the fender struts, let me just say that they fit into the recesses around the bolt holes on the fender struts and are just long enough so that, when tightened up, the bracket does not touch the strut itself but, rather, the spacers. I suppose you can stack up some washers to achieve the same result - they probably wouldn't show.
After attaching the brackets to the fender struts, I found that the front bracket on the right side had to be angled way back to clear the brake caliper. So much so, in fact, that I was worried about having sufficient mounting "spread" on the mounted cases. To cut to the chase, I installed the bags this way. Even though I thought the right front bracket was angled back far enough, on my first test ride, I hit a bump which caused the brake caliper to hit that bracket. Coulda been worse - the bag could have cracked.
So, I ended up relocating the brake caliper. This mod is outlined in a following thread. This allowed me to reposition the front brackets more straight down and closer to the front of the bags. I, then plugged the un-used front holes in the bags with nylon hole plugs with some silicone sealant for insurance.
Here are some pics of the installed bags:
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/tsukayu_bags_1.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/tsukayu_bags_2.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/tsukayu_bags_3.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/tsukayu_bags_4.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/tsukayu_bags_5.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/tsukayu_bags_6.jpg
Still trying to figure out what kind of "goodies" to put on the bags.
I'm happy with the results. This installation could have easily cost another $700 or so in addition to the cost of the bags. Which is why I mentioned about getting what you pay for. But, it worked out fine.
December 2005
Well, what do y'all call it? This is the piece I made to allow the rear brake caliper assembly to rotate back far enough to allow me to install my Tsukayu hard bag brackets where I wanted 'em.
Others have installed the "down under" bracket to achieve the same result:
http://hondadirectlineusa.com/pics/CYC-18383.jpg
It is a far more elegant solution and, I'm sure, has been engineered to provide safe, trouble-free service. You can purchase this here:
http://hondadirectlineusa.com/stores/product.asp?pid=4751&str=11&ID=867512127
This is the way to go if you can swing it.
Did I mention that my income from my recent retirement is nowhere near what I was getting while I was gainfully employed? :oops:
This is what I came up with - and how I did it. Please keep that in mind. This is not a how-to on modifying your bike's brakes. This is how "I" did it. Brakes - those are pretty important components - the sort of things that are associated with liability issues and lawyers if something on them fails. So, with that in mind ...
I began by loosening up the rear wheel axle nut on the right side. Then, I removed the brake stop bolt which anchors the caliper bracket to the swingarm. Now, the rear brake assembly could be rotated about the wheel axle. After positioning the assembly in the approximate location I wanted, I could see that all it would take is some sort of link to anchor the caliper bracket to the desired location. Wouldn't even have to touch the brake lines to the caliper.
This anchor link was actually pretty simple to construct. When I decided on how I was going to go about this, I rummaged through my scrap metal pile and found a piece of 1-1/4" wide strap steel a few inches long and 1/4" thick which looked to be strong enough. I cut this piece to the length I wanted.
Then, I needed a pin the same diameter as that of the original brake stop bolt. Once again, rummaged through the bolt bins until I found a 9/16" diameter bolt which appeared to fit snuggly into the caliper bracket anchor hole. This bolt needed to have at least 1" of smooth, unthreaded shank. While trying to cut this bolt to length with a hacksaw, I determined that it must have been a hardened bolt - hacksaw wouldn't touch it! I figured this was a plus. I ended up cutting it to length with a grinder.
I drilled a 9/16" diameter hole in the end of the strap steel piece to accept the bolt. Well, to be truthful, I drilled it 1/2" because that's the largest drill bit I had and, then, used a round file to finish. I figured this bolt should fit very snuggly in the hole with no slop. Then, I welded the bolt head to the piece all the way around the hex. I am not a welder so what I ended up with was ground down to where it looked acceptable.
Now, I could fit the piece into the caliper bracket and could see how it would work. All that was left was anchoring this new link to the swingarm.
I chose to use a 1/2 x 2-1/2 stainless steel bolt with locking nut to hold it. I drilled a 1/2" diameter hole at the other end of the new link to accept the bolt. Now, the 1/2" diameter is a little less than the diameter of the old stop bolt. However, I wanted to retain the ability to be able to go back to the original setup if needed. This requires that the threaded portion in the swingarm be preserved. Hopefully, that is solved by fitting a thick stainless steel washer into the recess surrounding the bolt hole which closely fits and keeps the bolt centered. We'll see...
This is how the link looked so far:
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/link.jpg
When fastening the link to the swingarm, I made sure the bolt was long enough to fully engage the locking nut but not so long as to interfere with the brake rotor. Used stainless steel washers as necessary for spacing and clearance.
When installed, the brake caliper assembly now looks kinda funky since it's rotated back. But, since my hard bags are installed to stay, it doesn't show unless the bags are removed.
Here are pics of before and after comparisons:
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/brake1.jpg
This shows where the brake caliper interfered with the bracket for the hard bags.
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/brake2.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/brake3.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/brake4.jpg
Notice how this last pic shows the brake assembly rotated back? The new link doesn't appear very well in this pic but you can see where it's pinned into the right side of the caliper bracket and bolted to the same anchor point as the original.
Here is a drawing of the completed anchor link:
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/brakelink1.jpg
Overall, I'm happy with the way this turned out. Obviously, not meant to be shown - but, it's functional.
Install Rear Turn Signals
January 2005
The Tsukayu hard bags that I installed required that the rear turn signals be replaced with smaller units or be relocated in order to place the hard bags where I wanted them - as close to the fender as possible and far enough rearward to center them up within the contours of the rear fender. Of course, that is my personal preference.
I chose to use the same bullets that I used for the front turn signals by BigBike/ShowChrome:
http://hondadirectlineusa.com/pics/1610x.jpg
http://hondadirectlineusa.com/stores/product.asp?
I really like these visored bullets - they match the visor of the stock VTX headlight. They are smaller than the stock units which allowed me to install them in the same locations. The chrome is good. The supplied 'amber' lenses look more yellow than amber but it works for me.
However, I'm not sure I'd recommend these particular bullets in this specific application.
I removed the stock rear turn signals - stalk and all. I didn't see any quick disconnects for the wires under the fender so I cut the wires close to the stock turn signals.
The new bullets install using a supplied long, threaded bushing. I drilled out the screw holes in the fender to allow the bushing to fit through and used fender washers each side of this hole to stiffen the area up.
Since I didn't use the stock rear turn signal stalks, I had a small turn signal mounted in a large recess on the fender. I looked for some rubber hole plugs or SOMETHING that would cover up the old turn signal recesses that the new turn signal would fit through. What I ended up using were a couple of automotive PVC valve grommets that just fit the diameter of the recessed hole. I used a razor knife to trim the back to fit properly. Once installed, it looks acceptable to me. Your opinion may differ...
The hard part was laying on my back looking up under the rear fender with the rear wheel still on and sticking my fingers up there to spice wires together - and, make it waterproof. I didn't use any connectors - soldered the splices and and used shrink tubing.
Altogether, the installation looks fine to me, but, if I ever have to replace a lamp in these, it will require removing the units and cutting wires and unbolting, etc.
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/rearturnsigs1.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/rearturnsigs2.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/rearturnsigs3.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/rearturnsigs4.jpg
Duc Air Filter Mod
February 2006
Here is a modified air filter mod that I got out of a thread that Duc of the VTXOA published:
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=32821
Edit: Duc's full write-up is now located at Bareass Choppers VTX Page under Tech Writeups/Mods:
http://www.bareasschoppers.com/
Duc has a lot of good info and plenty of pics for this mod.
End of edit.
It is an oval aftermarket air filter which is modified to fit on the VTX intake. It's an inexpensive mod which replaces the existing heart-shaped airbox. It costs way less than aftermarket performance units manufactured specifically for the VTXs which are typically over $200. How does $20 to $50 sound? And, IMHO, I kinda like the looks of 'em.
Start by purchasing an aftermarket filter and other required components. His build directions lists the parts required and includes a K&N filter assembly for $50. I didn't particularly care for the logo on the side so I found an EMPI unit Model 8717 with a smooth chrome cover:
http://www.vwparts.net/photos/empi/00-8717-0.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/daf001.jpg
These filters are made to fit Weber type DCNF carbs typically found on VW-powered dune buggies and stuff. They are 7" x 4-1/2" oval and 3-1/2" high with washable gauze elements.
Since I've removed my pair valve junk, I didn't have to worry about the getting the separate crankcase breather.
When you get your filter, the fun starts. Remove the stock filter assembly from the bike. This requires that the gas tank be raised, so, might as well remove the seat and prop up the back of the gas tank to make it easy. It will help, too, when it comes time to install the IAT sensor and re-routing the crankcase breather hose.
Remove the 5 screws that hold the stock filter cover and remove the cover and filter element.
Remove 4 screws holding the air horn and airbox to the intake and remove the air horn. Disconnect the crankcase breather hose, the hose to the pair valve (if you still have it), and the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor from the back of the airbox and remove the airbox. Remove and set aside the rubber ring that fits between the airbox and intake for re-use later.
Time to cut up your stock airbox! You only need to keep the portion which mounts to the intake. I used a table saw to cut chunks off of it until I got it close to where I wanted and used a bench grinder and files to trim it up to the desired shape. If you have a Dremel tool (wish I did), it might work a whole lot easier. The following pics show the progress:
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/daf002.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/daf003.jpg
Make sure that all cut edges are smooth, no burrs, etc. Don't need any extraneous material entering the intake when the motor's running! And, make sure any mating surfaces are kept smooth.
With that done, time to modify the new filter assembly to fit. Position what's left of the airbox (guess we'll call it a mounting ring) behind the new filter backplate to mark it up for trimming. I used a Sharpie to mark everything. Essentially, we're elongating the top two mounting holes outward and to a slightly larger diameter, we're drilling new holes for the bottom two mounting screws, and we're trimming some material away to allow the airhorn to fit properly. Kind of hard to see, but, here's a pic showing what I marked up:
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/daf004.jpg
For the top mounting holes, I just used a small rat tail file to elongate the holes. Then, drilled the bottom mounting holes. To enlarge the air opening, I used a large half-round file. Be sure to make frequent test fits with the mounting ring, filter backplate, and air horn 'sandwich' assembly. Make sure that you're not removing too much material either. And, no burrs! The following shows what I ended up with on the back side:
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/daf005.jpg
The most difficult part was marking the IAT sensor location. If you test fit the new assembly on the intake and install the filter element, you'll see that there is only one place to mount it without interfering with the filter element or with the intake. I marked the back side of the backplate to locate the where it fits next to the intake and I marked the filter element location:
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/daf006.jpg
Take your time here to ensure the location you drill for the sensor is spot-on! The hole for the sensor probe needs to be the exact diameter to allow the little O-ring to seal against the backplate. Then, drill holes for the mounting screws - I used 10-32 machine screws and nuts to fasten the sensor. Make sure to use thread lock compound here! The following pics show the modified backplate and sensor location. Notice how tight-quartered the sensor is:
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/daf007.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/daf008.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/daf009.JPG
I used the gasket supplied with the new air filter and trimmed it up to fit between the mounting ring and the new filter backplate - and, it's kinda thin around the sensor. Make sure to use the rubber ring you saved back between the mounting ring and the intake.
All that's left on the new filter assembly is to cover the un-used bottom mounting holes on the backplate - I used that metal tape suggested by Duc - it works. And, make sure there are no other un-filtered openings. Install your new assembly.
I removed the existing crankcase breather hose and replaced it with a 4-ft piece of new hose which runs along the underside of the backbone frame down to alongside the coolant reservoir. If you're still using the pair assembly, use Duc's write-up for help with that.
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/airfilter.JPG
Don't forget to oil the air filter element. Even though this wasn't a K&N filter, I picked up a can of K&N filter oil and treated the element.
There ya go. Low dollar perfomance (?) filter. Took me a long evening to do - but, then, I'm kinda slow. And, it sucks - I mean, you can literally hear it suck.
April 2006
Here are updated photos of ma baby so far:
http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data/500/65402-28-2006_001-small.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/2-28-2006%20002-small.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/2-28-2006%20003-small.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/2-28-2006%20004-small.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/2-28-2006%20005-small.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/2-28-2006%20006-small.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/2-28-2006%20007-small.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/2-28-2006%20008-small.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/2-28-2006%20009-small.jpg
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/2-28-2006%20010-small.jpg
June 2006
It had been a year or so since I trimmed an inch and a half off the top of my windshield. But, I was still distracted by the top edge of the shield. It seemed to be right in my view target. I was always moving my head up or down for a good view.
Sooooooo, I cut another 1-1/2" off the top.
Whoa! It looked really short now. I worried that I cut off too much - hope I hadn't ruined a perfectly good shield!
Turns out, it worked great! The airstream hits just about my upper forehead but there's plenty of undistracted view area. Wish I had done this sooner. And, the shorter look, I like it too!
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/windshield%20retrim.jpg
August 2006
I was prepping the X for a trip to Sturgis and decided that, since I normally ride with the passenger seat removed, it was a good time to install a solo luggage rack. That would keep the tent and soft luggage off the rear fender (those hard bags only hold so much...).
Looked like three models to pick from: Rivco, Big Bike Parts, and Honda.
I chose to use the tubular Honda rack. Looked better, IMO, than the other plate-style racks.
http://hondadirectlineusa.com/pics/HO-6987150.jpg
HDL offers that rack also:
http://hondadirectlineusa.com/stores/product.asp?pid=1794&str=11&ID=239222549
Since I was to leave in two days (I proscrastinate sometimes), I called around and found a stealer that had one in stock. So, I rode to the big city (I live in the country), purchased it and installed it in their parking lot - took all of two minutes - the installation, not the ride.
Instant bling! And very functional. I love it!
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/rack.jpg
January 2007
I just passed another milestone - er, birthday, and was very pleasantly surprised by a new set of V&H Bigshots as a present! My wife had ordered it on sly from HDL. Now, that's my kind of birthday present!
It was time to retire the C-model pipes that I had fitted onto the Retro. I had no regrets. Those C pipes really do look better on a Retro than on a C - IMHO.
But, it was time for an audible zing - not to mention a performance shot in the arm. I was starting to salivate, drool, etc.
I had just finished helping my bro-in-law install his set of Bigshots on his 1300C last week. It was a piece of cake. Looked forward to the same thing on my Retro.
So, my bro-in-law came over to help me. And, since I knew my bike so intimately, I thought the install would fly.
Took off the old pipe set including the homemade adapter for the mounting bracket and was ready for the new pipes.
Installed the full heat shields on the new pipes and the O2 plugs as instructed. Installed the new mounting bracket. Then, found that the rectifier would not reach the mounting location on the new bracket.
Well, that sucked! I hadn't heard of anyone else having that kind of problem. There just wasn't enough slack in the wiring off the rectifier to reach. Ended up having to disconnect both wire looms, one under the seat and the other inside the left engine cover, and re-route the looms to gain sufficient slack to install the rectifier. It was a PITA!
Finally got the rectifier installed, went to install the pipes onto the heads. Installed new exhaust gaskets to insure no leaks. But, when trying to position the pipes, well, I was really glad I had help on this because it was damn stubborn. My younger bro-in-law may possibly have learned some new, spicy MC lingo what with all the yelling I was doing.
Anyway, the pipes finally fit into the heads, bolted them up and finished with the install at the bracket end. And, carefully cleaned up the pipes before heating them up.
Potential problem: the newly installed pipe ended up less than an inch from the front of my Tsukayu hard bags - a little more at the rear of the bags. Looks like I'll have to re-adjust the bags a little bit.
Hot rod Chevy. Doesn't sound like a Harley - that's for sure. And, I got that big wide semi-permanent grin that everyone gets when they first hear their new set of pipes.
The sound - louder than I thought. These came with quiet baffles. But, they're not too loud. I'm still getting used to it. But, I still like the sound. And, they look good with the bags too.
Butt dyno indicates marked improvement. Wow! But, that might be phsycol -- phisiyi - er, in my head. Along with my budget air intake, I'll keep an eye on sparkplug condition and hope I won't need a PC3 or something. Otherwise, it seems to run very well. We'll see if the fuel mileage goes south.
Thanks for the pipes, Steph and Trish!!!
Stock Seat Mod
January 2007
I really thought hard about submitting my application to C.R.A.P.
I'm so damned cheap, I didn't wanna spend $35 to have BadX mod my seat:
http://www.meancitycycles.com/
That's a terrific deal! I think about some of the things I've done to the Retro that I ended up doing myself because I couldn't or wouldn't part with hard-earned buckolas....
Anyway, the stock seat sucks! Those all-day and long distance rides really numbed my butt with this seat. After almost 3 years and 20K miles, and because winter boredom set in, I decided to try modding the seat myself. I had what I needed to give it a try.
I ended up breaking out the electric turkey carver.
:shock:
I was pretty conservative with that knife. Just barely straightened the back support - took off no more than an inch at the bottom. Had to be very careful here! The rough cutting turned out better than I thought - it could have gotten ugly quick!
Smoothed out the rough cut using a cordless drill with a 5" sanding disk. The course grit papers cut faster but are not so forgiving to mistakes. Final shaping/smoothing was with a medium grit. And, this turned out well, also.
I sprayed the seat part of the foam with spray-can headliner adhesive. Hope that stuff works. I then covered the re-shaped foam with a cotton tee shirt making sure it was smoothed out with no wrinkles. Make sure there are no seams or (doh!) holes in the material which WILL BE NOTICEABLE after you stretch the seatcover over it. Don't ask me how I know this! I put a few staples at the edges to hold the cotton covering in place.
Then, slipped on the seatcover and carefully stretched it over the edges and stapled it. Here again, slow and steady.
Took me about 4 hours - it went quicker than I thought. And the seat still looks original - ie: I didn't screw it up too bad.
I suspect the seat or riding height probably dropped an inch - I didn't cut into the back because I was concerned with getting further away from the bars.
Haven't been on the road with it yet. But, if the comfort level is the same or worse, I'll post it here.
The potential for mi$takes on this mod is reason enough to have someone like BadX do it.
But, I had to try!
Edit: I'm happy to report that this mod was a good one! After a 3,000 round trip to Sturgis and back, I never experienced any numb butt at all. I'm very satisfied!
Relocate Front Turn Signals and Driving Lights
June 2007
I got bored with my Honda light bar. It looked like overkill for the smaller turn signals and driving lights I had mounted on it. I wanted something different (too much time on my hands?).
Anyway, I removed the lights from the light bar and removed the bar. Then, tried to come up with ideas for mounting them back onto something else besides the light bar.
I made up some "L" brackets out of some scrap aluminum plate for the turn signal mounts. After polishing them up, I mounted the brackets onto the windshield underneath the chrome face frame. I know, not very elegant. I like the general position of the front turn signals now but not the exposed wire underneath. So, those mounts may change.
Also, moved the driving spots under the headlight between the fork tubes. I made another mounting bracket from my aluminum plate stash and, using the stand-offs from the light bar, mounted the bracket under the lower triple tree. By doing this, I've reduced the visible "lighting triangle" which I hadn't thought of until later. Oh, well. The mounting doesn't look too bad.
Here's some pics of the relocated lights:
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/IMG_0917-small.JPG
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/IMG_0918-small.JPG
Edit: July 2008
Ok, now let's see if anyone can tell if there is anything wrong in this pic:
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/fenderdings.jpg
If you guessed "Yea, Zym (you dumbass), there happens to be two dings in the fender that correspond closely to the position of the driving lights!", then you would be right.
I thought there was plenty of room - those are Progressive springs in the forks, too. Oh, well, I see some changes forthcoming ......
Paint Radiator Cover
September 2007
Tired of the same old look? Wanna do a simple mod that makes a definite difference to your X? Costs less than $20 and you can do it in an evening.
Try painting the plastic radiator cover. I know, it's not a fancy chin spoiler or anything. But, the stock radiator is pretty plain looking if you ask me. Too dark - indescrept. I know some people don't like to call attention to the fact that there's a radiator there, but it's hard to hide it. Anyway, I didn't think it would hurt to try to change it.
The radiator covers are plastic - and, they're not smooth but textured. So, when painted, they still won't look shiny like the tins.
After removing the 4-piece cover, I removed any road tar, washed them good with soap and water and dried them thoroughly.
I used those small, 5 oz. Dupli-Color cans. I used one can of grey primer, one can of Seattle Silver for the top coat, and one can of some other brighter silver for the first coat of paint. This paint dries quickly and the cans have very good spray nozzles. The small cans just don't go very far is all.
I also re-sprayed the grille a bright gold.
Just under 2-1/2 hours from start to finish - including drying time!
The painted covers don't match the tins perfectly - but, it's fairly close. One view looks more silver than the tins - another view it looks more gold than the tins. Probably has to do with the textured surface of the radiator covers. I didn't use any clear coat - maybe that would have helped?
I kinda like it. Here are a couple of pics >
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/IMG_0922-small.JPG
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/IMG_0920-small.JPG
Hidden Hitch
March 2008
It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out that motorcycles just don't have the same carrying capacities as 4-wheeled vehicles. After a couple of road trips with my hard bags stuffed full and a stuffed T-bag strapped to my fender rack along with my tent and sleeping bag, I started eying the possibility of pulling a trailer to haul this stuff.
About two weeks prior to Sturgis 2007, I had all the materials I needed to build a hitch and a trailer.
:shock:
Turned out that two weeks is not sufficient time for me to complete an undertaking of this nature.
So, this was gonna be my winter project.
Dakota, of the 1300 Board, had designed and built a hidden hitch for the 1300 Retro. Which, coincidently, will work on the 1800 Retro very well! He has posted pics, plans, and instructions here:
http://www.webshots.com/search?query=billgre&tab=photos
There are several Retro owners out there that have used Dakota's plans. I particularly like the fact that, with the hitch tongue/ball removed from the receiver, it is hard to tell there's a hitch under that fender. And, if you happen to be handy with fabricating steel and welding, you're gonna save some $$$.
I am not a particularly good welder. In fact, my welding sucks. For that reason, you'll see no construction pics of my hitch. Nope, it's all tucked under the fender out of sight. Oh, it's good and strong - just not a pretty welding job.
:roll:
But, if you're worried about appearance or, more importantly, strength, get someone who can weld it up correctly. You can tack the pieces into position and take it to a welding shop for little $$$.
Dakota's plan and instructions were very good. But, I'll mention a couple of things to watch for that I had a little trouble with:
1. I didn't drill the mounting holes in the side pieces according to the dimensions shown on the plans. Instead, I made the side pieces as outlined. Then, I positioned them under the fender and marked them through the holes in the fender strut. That way, I was sure the holes would line up without having to "waller them out" if my measurements weren't quite right.
2. Tack and test fit. On my first try, I had a good looker receiver hitch put together pretty quick. I mounted it on the the bike - looked good! However, when I lowered the bike off the jack, the rear tire rubbed the receiver. (this was 5 days before my road trip and the reason this turned into a winter project) Anyway, it is important to make sure everything fits and clears. When you tack the receiver onto the side pieces, mount it up, put the wheel/tire on, put everything together, and put a load on the rear of the bike to insure everything clears BEFORE final welding. That way, you don't have to cut off full welded joints instead of just cutting a tack weld or two. It took me several times of doing this before I got it right.
3. If you notice, the inside rear fender brace is not straight front to back but, rather, has a slight offset bend in it. I put about a 1/2" thick spacer between the front two mounting holes to keep the hitch side pieces tight against the inner fender brace.
This job was made more difficult due to the fact that my Tsukayu bag supports shared the same rear two holes in the fender strut along with the hitch. Required longer bolts and pre-positioning, etc.
Anyway, here's all you'll see of my hitch:
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/IMG_1353small.JPG
And, you won't see this if I pull the pin and drop the hitch tongue outta the receiver.
Thanks to Dakota for his efforts! Everything is easier when someone else has forged the way already.
Now, I got a trailer to put together......
Pull-behind Trailer
April 2008
I got a helluva deal on this:
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/IMG_0527-small.JPG
Or, so I thought.....
Had wanted a trailer to pull behind the Retro for those long road trips.
My wife's grandfather had this old boat trailer in a yard sale. I gave him $75 for it. And was happy!!!
I got it last year and was gonna have it converted in time for my Sturgis trip. But, that didn't happen. Couldn't get my hitch done in time - much less this.
Anyway, I got my hitch done this past winter and finally got around to putting the trailer together.
The old boat (dingy?) trailer had a wheelbase of 48" - didn't require any narrowing of the axle at all. I did, however, have to replace the bearings and ended up replacing the aluminum hubs too. I didn't want any trouble down the road.
The axle was mounted kinda crooked on the frame, so, I removed the mounts and squared the axle up.
My wife bought a new Sears cargo box for about $200 - it sets on the square frame nicely.
I replaced the boat-length 3" square tongue with a 2" tongue with a new ball hitch.
Replaced the existing boat lights with LED lights to cut down on electric consumption.
And, removed a lotta surface rust and give it some spray cans of paint.
Here's what I ended up with:
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/IMG_0003-small.JPG
http://users.tvecwb.com/wzimmerman/VTX/IMG_0005-small.JPG
I still need to mount a cooler mount on the tongue and will probably add more lighting in the rear to keep it visible. And, maybe get rid of the Sears logo .....
I probably won't use it much but it'll be there if I do need it. Costs for new hubs, the cargo box, tongue steel, new wheel/tires, lighting, and paint ran less than $500 for everything - including the original investment! Not too bad!
I haven't loaded it to the max yet. But, lightly loaded, it seems to pull straight down the road with no wiggles or surprises. Of course, loading and tongue weight will have a lot to do with that. I still have some testing to do with it before it hits the road.
Edit: September 2008
Ended up giving the trailer the ol' acid test last weekend.
My family's want to take along everything that we have in our house with us to our campsite for the weekend far exceeded the capacity of the vehicle we were taking to haul it. So, I had a good excuse to take the motorcycle - and try out the trailer.
I didn't tell her that we could have pulled it with the Envoy.
Trailer pulled just great! No problems whatsoever. My hitched rattled in the receiver some on real rough roads though.
That's about it.
Except, it's longer than I'd like. U-turns in the street about impossible. Going to move the tongue back about a foot and try it again.
Lightbar Alternative
September 2008
Due to the unsuccessful mounting of my driving lights as noted above (dinged fender), I came up with a different way to mount my front turn signals and driving lights. And, it wasn't very hard to do at all!
This utilizes the stock Honda turn signal fork mounts with the signal stalks removed.
I made a couple of mounting brackets from a piece of heavy aluminum sheet (that would be an old traffic sign) that are bolted to the stock turn signal mounts. After polishing on a wheel, it looks pretty good with the aluminum mounts.
The beauty of this setup is that it is adjustable out the wahzoo. The stock turn signal mounts can slide up or down the forks, they can rotate on the forks (prob not needed), or you can rotate the bracket you made on the mounts.
Here are some pics showing the mounting and the shape of the simple brackets:
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff311/_Zym_/IMG_0375-sm.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff311/_Zym_/IMG_0376-sm.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff311/_Zym_/IMG_0377-sm.jpg
For all you cheapskate riders (yea, I'm one of 'em), this mod's for you!
dirtstiff's X
09-11-2008, 07:45 PM
If you ever decide to sell or up grade, I'm in for the bags and C pipe.
Nice bike,
Jim
cloud-9
09-16-2008, 08:48 PM
Wow, thanks for the fantastic thread.
Hidden Hitch (revisited)
April 2009
I like my hidden hitch. Haven't had any problem with it whatsoever. I've pulled my trailer on three trips using it. And, I like the fact that it's hidden when I'm not using it.
However, I'm going to be changing out my rear tire. And I'm not going to replace it with another motorcycle tire that I get less than 8,000 miles with.
No, I'm going with a car tire. As far as I'm concerned, it's a matter of economics. And that's about all I'm going to say about that right now. I ain't skeered of no car tar!
But, my hitch left little clearance outside the stock 180 rear tire. In order to use a wider tire, well, that hitch was going to need modifications to be able to use it.
The existing hidden hitch was essentially fastened to the inside of the rear fender brace and was fastened with nuts on the inside. When I added the thickness of the two 1/4" hitch plates and the nuts to hold them on, it totaled out over 1-1/4". When you're looking to fit a wider back there, that extra 1-1/4" is needed to obtain clearance.
What needed to happen to obtain some additional clearance was to combine the function of the inner fender brace with that of the hitch.
Here is a pic of how my modifications turned out:
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=196&pictureid=7119
The completed hitch is shown mounted onto the bike without the fender. First thing you'll notice is that the top fender braces were cut off and removed from the inner brace and welded to the hitch sides. But, that was about the last thing I did. Here's how I proceeded:
Using the original hitch from Dakota's plans, I mounted it directly onto the frame rails of the bike without the rear fender in place. I already knew that the receiver portion fit inside the fender alright. But, I knew I'd need to trim up portions of the sides of the hitch because they would be placed right next to the fender itself. I ended up trimming along the top of the hitch sides, some from the front-most portions, and some along the bottom of the sides near the very rear. This trimming allowed the hitch sides to be able to clear the protrusions inside the rear fender.
As for the mounting holes, I did not want the hitch to be fastened using nuts - I didn't want any clearance issues. But, since the mounting holes were already drilled for thru bolts, I couldn't tap the holes for threads. To provide for mounting, I enlarged the existing holes slightly then welded nuts to the outside of the hitch sides. This provides a kind of mounting boss - much the same as that on the original inner fender brace.
This sounds easier than it was - for me anyway. Took me several attempts to get all six nuts properly lined up. Actually, if you count the three holes in the top cross-braces and two additional holes that hold the hitch inside the fender, well, that's a lot of potential alignment issues.
After the required trimming and welding on the mounting bosses (the nuts), it was time to break out the BFH.
:shock:
BFH = Big F'ing Hammer
Used in conjunction with the BFV - er, the big vise, I used the BFH (about 8lbs) to persuade the hitch sides to fit. It is not a straight line along the mounting bosses - there needs to be a slight bend. Also, there are a couple of places inside the fender near reinforcement areas that require some subtle adjustment whacks from the BFH along the hitch sides.
After the hitch fit between the frame rails reasonably well and fit neatly within the fender, I had to widen the hitch at the receiver to insure it fit as close to the fender as possible.
Finally, I cut off the top cross braces from the original inner fender brace and welded them to the top of the hitch. Again, alignment is critical.
Here's another pic showing how it looks mounted in the fender:
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=196&pictureid=7120
Ok, so to fit everything together, you have to mount the hitch inside the rear fender first, then mount the whole thing onto the bike. Easy, except the fender weighs about 20 lbs more than it did before. And, when I added my hard bag mounting hardware into the mix, when I say that alignment of the mounting holes are critical to mounting everything up, it's not without merit.
In retrospect, considering the amount of work required to get this hitch to fit properly, it's no wonder that manufacturers charge so much for their hitches.
But, it's ready for a car tar now!
I've not been a real big fan of leather and studs. While I've seen some very good looking bikes all studded up and such, it wasn't really for me. The only thing I had with studs is my windshield pouch. It got it for mostly for utility - has a simple twist-latch on it instead of a strap or belt - easy to use while in motion.
But, I had a sickening experience while working on my hitch. I had my rear fender off and sitting upside down on a padded high chair and (gulp) watched from about 10 feet away as I saw it fall outta the chair and (sob) hit the rough concrete floor below - upside down ..... (aaaarrrrrrggggghhhhhh!!!!!).
I was sickened!
It scratched the sheet out of the top of the fender - mostly right below where my nice chrome solo rack sits.
Well, great! That's the second boo-boo I've got on my tins. First was the dings in the front fender from the driving lights smacking it when the front forks bottomed out. Now this. And dang sure can't afford to repaint right now.
After I composed myself, I looked it over and decided that the only way I could bring myself to show the bike in public without embarrassment was to hide the scratches somehow until I could get my tins painted.
Ordered this: http://directlineparts.com/product.asp?pid=2689&str=11
http://www.hondadirectlineusa.com/pics/MUS-78099.jpg
I installed a Mustang rear fender bib. It hid most all of the visible scratches I had on the top of the fender. To install with the solo fender rack, I had to remove the two forward-most studs at the front of the bib to allow the screws for the front of the rack to work. Also had to punch holes in the front of the bib for these screws.
While I was at it, I took advantage of my obviously distressed state and ordered a matching Mustang tank bib as well. I mean, hey, the studded rear fender bib would have looked way out of place by itself! Come on, I'm hurtin' here!!
http://directlineparts.com/product.asp?pid=2658&str=11
http://www.hondadirectlineusa.com/pics/MUS-93176.jpg
Tank bib installation is easy: remove the 3 lower screws holding the tank speedo, remove the gas cap then the speedo, fit the bib into place, reinstall the speedo and gas cap, and tie off the laces at the bottom of the bib around the tank mounting boss.
Finally, with both bibs installed, I installed studs on my modded stock seat to finish the look. I couldn't find any studs on DLP so I ordered from J&P:
http://www.jpcycles.com/Search/ProductDetail?sku=8400003
If you've never installed studs before (and I hadn't), the way I did was: with the seat in place, using a flexible tape measure (they make those for seamstresses), mark carefully the mid-point of the seat where the studs will be placed, push this center stud in completely about a half inch outside of the seat seam, start placing studs each side of this center stud where it needs to be and push 'em into the seat - the prongs will keep them in temporarily. I used the tape measure to insure all the studs were evenly placed. When all the studs are pressed in, remove the seat and then the seat cover and bend the prongs over, reattached the seat cover, and sit back and admire.
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=196&pictureid=7496
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=196&pictureid=7497
Like I said, I'm not a big fan of studs but this will work for me for awhile. Both bibs and 4 packages of studs cost just over $100. That's a heckuva lot cheaper than new paint. Only thing is ..... now I'm looking at getting some leather conchos or something for the sides of the bags go with this change in theme. This is a real sickness, huh?
July 2009
With my hidden hitch modded, I was ready to go with a darkside rear tire. Since I wasn't real sure how well the most popular sized tires (205/65R16) would fit with my hitch, I decided to try a 195 wide tire just to insure that there would not be any clearance issues. The bad news was that there was a very limited number of profiles available in this width - namely, the 55 series. The lower profile offered by the 55 should further help obtaining clearances around my hitch. But, the reduced circumference would make my speedometer off even more than the stock setup as well as reduce ground clearance.
My brother-in-law got the rear tire for me after I gave him the size I was looking at. He got me the Kumho Ecstra 195/55 RF 16. Yea, that RF stands for run-flat. I could not believe how incredibly stiff those low-profile sidewalls were on that tire. I could stand on top of the tire without wrinkling it - unmounted! However, it went on relatively easy using some spoons and care. No issues seating the beads at all. And, I've not balanced it either. I'd like to not have to try using Dyna Beads in it if I can keep from it. That still uncertain mojo to me....
Have only a few miles on it right now. No handling issues yet other than the low speed cornering - that was expected. Looking forward to putting some miles on it. Hell, I'm looking forward to picking up a nail in the rear just to see how well it rides with no air!
Also, it probably lowered the bike almost an inch in the back ... didn't take long to drag a floorboard. But then, I'm running shortened shocks too.
I'm starting out with 40 psi in the rear for a baseline and will adjust from there after I get some experience with this tire.
It looks good on the back of the Retro. Looks about as wide as a 205 but lower profiled.
But, that's not why I got this tire. It was simple economics for me. If this one tire lasts as long as 3 motorcycle tires at the same or lower cost - without any adverse handling of my cruiser - I'll be happy.
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=857&pictureid=10423
I have a feeling that I'm gonna be happy.:grin:
July 2009
I'm one of those that has to have something to sip on when I'm riding for any significant distance. Normally, I'd get one of those 20 oz. bottles of soda and slip it between my handlebars and windshield. Worked alright but it sure don't stay cold.
Enter: my version of a drink holder:
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=196&pictureid=11143
It keeps my favorite insulated mug within easy reach. And, since it's insulated, keeps my drink cold a heckuva lot longer.
Materials:
one 4' piece of 1/4" steel rod available at most any hardware store.
one pipe repair clamp for 1-1/2" pipe - 3" long
I formed the holder by wrapping the rod around a solid round object at the same diameter I needed. Then, performed the rest of the bends in my vise with a hammer. Pretty simple. The holder rests on top of the rear passenger peg and the stainless steel pipe clamp fits over the holder and peg. Since the clamp is only 3" long, only a single bolt/nut secures it to the peg. No welding!
Here's another pic:
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=196&pictureid=11144
Just came back from a 2600 mile road trip and it worked pretty well. Only problem I had was that if I didn't have the lid closed right, my drink would tend to get sucked out at speed - onto my hardbag. One thing I will change is to add a rubber hose or soft material around the rod. I had a couple of pieces of hose on it but when I removed my side cover, I wasn't careful and scratched it on the drink holder. This is a patent idea waiting to be discovered folks! And chromed!
:mrgreen:
Aug 2009
I've been partial to fairings. My last last two bikes had fixed fairings and I've learned to appreciate them - they offer good protection from wind and rain. Although my Hondaline windshield had performed admirably, I actually like the look of a fairing. Just a personal choice I guess.
I purchased a HD fairing from a good board member here at a very reasonable price. It was the outer portion only - no inner or windshield. I wasn't interested in radio and speakers and stuff - I'd never listen to it. This original ABS fairing was in very good condition - only minor scratches in the paint - but had a broken outer mounting stud. Don't know which model Harley it came off of.
First step was to remove the existing Hondaline windshield and see how it would fit up. I wanted to keep my existing headlight, so, in order for this fairing to fit properly, I removed the the lower portion of the headlight opening and opened up the rest of the opening to fit closely around the headlight - leaving about a 1/4" gap all around. I used a small grinder to rough it out and hand files to finish it out. I purchased some black vinyl auto door edge trim to fit over the edges of the headlight opening.
As for mounting, I wanted to try to use my existing Hondaline windshield fork mounts if I could. But, had to find a way to fix that broken, outer mounting stud. It had a previous epoxy repair - which didn't hold. There were two mounting studs at the bottom on each side of the headlight opening and two mounting studs about midway up the fairing towards the outer ends.
I decided to utilize the windshield mounting holes instead of the outer mounting studs. I cut a piece of heavy aluminum sign stock to make a sort of dashboard/windshield holder - curved with mounting tabs at the bottom for the fork mounting brackets. Then fabricated those brackets out of 5/16" steel rod with mounting tabs welded on to fit on the fork mounts and
the top threaded to fasten to the dash portion. Hard to explain so here is a picture so you get the idea:
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=196&pictureid=11902
I painted the finished brackets with rattle can of black spray paint. Although chrome would have been nice, the black brackets aren't really noticeable - especially since I would paint the back of the fairing a flat black. The dashboard/windshield holder would be painted with the fairing.
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=196&pictureid=11906
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=196&pictureid=11905
As for the windshield, I cut up my existing Hondaline windshield to fit the fairing. The finished windshield is mounted with three 1/4" x 1" stainless steel roundhead bolts with washers and acorn nuts. It sandwiches the windshield between the fairing and the top dash mount.
In the interest of trying to keep costs minimal, and because I plan on painting the X one of these days, I decided to try the rattle can approach to paint. So, I consider this temporary.
Here is my finishing sequence - it worked alright me (this time):
- wetsand fairing with 220 grit automotive sandpaper to remove the clearcoat and color coat.
- spot putty remaining imperfections.
- wetsand again with 220 - using a light touch.
- apply filler (hi-build) primer - I used one can of Rust'o'leum - about three coats.
- wetsand with 400 grit paper - again, use a light touch.
- apply additional spot putty if necessary and wetsand with 400 paper.
- apply sandable primer coat - one can of Rust'o'leum again - about three coats again. This was a darker gray primer.
- wetsand with 800 grit paper to an acceptable finish and smoothness.
At this finished primer stage, I waited a full day before I attempted the color stage just to make sure since the paint manufacturers were different.
- apply color coats - I used Duplicolor Truck, Van, and SUV cans since they are larger. The Duplicolor spray tips are a whole lot better than you'll find on the cheap rattlecans. I applied 4 coats initially.
- wetsand with 1000 grit paper - very lightly (just to keep the nubs and orange-peel down).
- apply 3 additional color coats.
- wetsand again with 1000 grit.
The color looked very good to me at this time - the darker gray had just the right amount of metallic sheen in it to compliment my existing paint.
- apply Duplicolor clearcoat - I had about 8 coats of this.
Now, at this point, I thought I ruined the paint job. The clear sucked - had orange peel - and no good metallic sheen to it. So, I did the following:
- apply rubbing compound - a tedious process but, yea, that smoothed it out.
- apply polishing compound - this smooths it out further and brings out the shine.
- apply a good paste wax.
So, I had my temporary paint on just in time for my road trip. The fairing looked alright but just didn't seem smooth enough.
Well, 2600 miles later and a car wash incident, the finish was terrible. I couldn't clean the bug guts off completely. :roll:
And, the car wash lifted a very small spot of paint. Obviously, the Duplicolor isn't gonna be as durable as a good automotive paint. So, I attempted to repair the damage as follows:
- I used polishing compound again to remove the wax I put on it. This step got rid of the bug guts.
- Then, I brought out the sandpaper again, 1000 grit, and wetsanded the whole thing again. I had enough clearcoat on the fairing that further wetsanding didn't cut through to the paint. Letting the fairing dry out between sandings, I could tell which areas needed further sanding. I repeated until the entire surface was uniformly non-sheen. However, the finish was flat and I couldn't see any metallic finish - it looked almost like my original primered coat.
- Again, I brought out the polishing compound. This time, the color and metallic sheen popped!
- Then, used the polishing compound on it. And, now I got a good looking metallic paint job!
- As an alternative to waxing the finished surface, I decided to try some Plexus instead. The surface immediately became super slick and super shiny. I'm interested in seeing how well this type of protectant will work.
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=196&pictureid=11903
Obviously, this lacquer paint system won't be as durable or as deep as a urethane paint. But, this turned out very well.
Besides, I'm considering this to be temporary.
I know diddly squat about paint/body work. But, this project turned out to be fairly easy for me and I'm pretty satisfied with the results.
So, I figured out how much $$$ I put into this.... less than $150 - including the fairing! Yes, you read that right!
Yea, I'm happy with the results!:firstplace:
Philscbx
02-11-2010, 09:03 PM
Truly Enjoyed the entire Mod.
Just goes to show ya, Farmers are truly creative making something from nothing.
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