Why is my 1300 running rough? Please help!
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Thread: Why is my 1300 running rough? Please help!

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    Default Why is my 1300 running rough? Please help!

    I have a 2004 Honda VTX 1300 R with only 3000 miles on it. I admit, I do not ride it as much as I should. Everytime I do ride it, I run all the gas out of the carb. The last month or so, when I start it and run it, it stutters and gasps when I apply full throttle in almost any gear. I have checked and replaced the plugs and just today filler her up with nice new gas. Since I owned it, I added V and H pipes and rejetted when I lived in Houston. Now, I live in El Paso which is higher elevation but it has not always dones this. Any ideas? Think carb is gummed up?

    Thanks!

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    Pope "papa" of the VTXOA Chicago-Spike's Avatar
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    It would be a good place to start. Carbs that are run dry but the float bowls left full, develop gum/varnish rapidly. If you are going to continue that process I suggest adding a bit of "Seafoam" to the tank beforehand and let that run through the carb before shutting it down.

    Try some Techron Fuel System Cleaner, if that doesn't clean it all out, then you gotta take the carb apart for proper cleaning

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chicago-Spike
    Carbs that are run dry but the float bowls left full, develop gum/varnish rapidly.
    Now I'm worried. I took advice from someone on this board and turned off the fuel and let the engine die the last time I rode mine (December). Do you think I'll get varnish build up? Should I start it up and run gas through it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chicago-Spike
    It would be a good place to start. Carbs that are run dry but the float bowls left full, develop gum/varnish rapidly. If you are going to continue that process I suggest adding a bit of "Seafoam" to the tank beforehand and let that run through the carb before shutting it down.

    Try some Techron Fuel System Cleaner, if that doesn't clean it all out, then you gotta take the carb apart for proper cleaning
    I don't know about the gumming being worse if it's run dry, but I've owned 4 bikes, and never once intentionally ran the gas out of any of them. One of them (when I lived in a colder climate) used to sit all for at least 3 or 4 months straight each winter, and I never had any problems whatsoever.

    I never added any type of winterizing chemical to the gas during storage, either. All of my lawnmowers have always gone through the same procedure - just park for the winter, and crank back up next spring.

    Eddie
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    Pope "papa" of the VTXOA Chicago-Spike's Avatar
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    Fuel back even a few years ago, didn't have all these additives. The additives make the fuel less stabil than it should be and turns to varnish in a relatively short while. It is even worse up here in the mid west. It wouldn't hurt to clean out the carb, starting with a tank additive like Techron

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    Due to your practice of letting the carb bowl empty out I would bet that you have a stuck float.
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    If you use the choke allot it is very possable that the plugs are fouled...been there done that...more than once
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    I let mine sit the first winter I had it and when I crancked it the next spring it was running like that. I got to looking and all of my factory vacum lines were cracked and busted. I change those out and my problem was fixed. As far as running the gas out? There is no need to do that but if it is going to sit awhile stabil or seafoam will definitely help, but if it doesn't sit for 6 months or longer you shouldn't need anything. I'm just like eddie. I don't do anything to any of my equipment just turn it off in fall and crank it in spring. But I would definitely check the vacum lines.
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    Quote Originally Posted by curve10780
    There is no need to do that but if it is going to sit awhile stabil or seafoam will definitely help, but if it doesn't sit for 6 months or longer you shouldn't need anything. .
    This is not true in all places in the US. Up here in the mid west gas will start going stale in as little as 4 weeks with no stabilizer in it. This is due to all the crap the politicians have the fuel companies add to the fuel. Don't believe me, just call any motorcycle, lawn mower, farm machinery shop and ask them what they see the most of. They will all tell you, carb rebuilds due to gas going bad.
    Since we don't know where the original poster is from, I suggested the carbs being gummed up because that is what my area is most familiar with being the problem.

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    Our gas here in WV goes funky pretty dern quick! It gets that characteristic sour mop water smell to it and dark amber varnis will be forming on surfaces. Its easier to avoid than it is to clean-up. Stabil works. Like Spike said, Techroline seems to be the best cleaner additive. Checking for deteriorated vacuum lines is good to. Your '04 should not have a fuel pump, but does have a vacuum line to operate the gravity feed fuel valve -- loss of vacuum could give you fuel starvation.

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    Either way, I don't think it will hurt to add Stabil to the gas tank in the winter months. A big bottle costs under $10 in Walmart and you only need 2 ounces per VTX gas tank. Considering the amount of riding that people (who live in places with real winter) do, it won't cost you much.
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  13. #12

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    First of all, THANK YOU for all of the replies.

    I am going to run out to the store today and get some Techron Fuel System Cleaner. Thanks for the advice on that. Hopefully that will clean it out. That is interesting about the run dry/not run dry stuff. I was also told to run it dry to prevent gumming in carbs, so much for that theory as my carbs are gummed up now! I always did that with my dirt bikes also, and did have a gummed up carb there as well.

    In reference to the possibility of a stuck bowl, only way to unstick it is to take carb apart, right?

    I will also check vaccum lines.

    It is really strange. It will run, but man full throttle and she stutters. I will keep you posted after I get the techron and see what happens when I run that through.

    Thanks again and safe riding!

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    Default fuel trouble

    I agree with the first guy that suggested the sea foam I sold it for about 12 years and it is the best fuel system cleaner I have ever come across The day I started selling it I put 2 cans in the wifes car one into the tank and poured the other through the carb with the engine idled up when I got almost empty in the can I choked the engine down with the remainder of the seafoam and let it sit for about 10 minutes. This little car was running great before adding the seafoam but after I cranked it back up and cleared out the engine the wife went on a little run with the car around 40 miles or so when she returned she said she noticed the car ran better than it ever had. I have used it for years myself not to fix any problems but to keep from having any about every 2 months i add some to all my engines and dont have any fuel problems at all.

    05 1300r

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    Pope "papa" of the VTXOA Chicago-Spike's Avatar
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    Split that bottle over 3 tankfills(add 1/3 of a bottle per tank fill-up)
    I do this once a year on my bike to keep it clean inside

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  16. #15

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    Finally had to take it to the dealer. Turns out the difference in altitutude from the move is causing it to run way too rich and that is why the plugs were fouled and it ran so bad. What irritates me, is that when I lived in Houston I paid to install a jet kit. This shop says the jet kit was never installed. Its hard to know whats really happening and who is right.

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    Senior Member Fishin Phil's Avatar
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    The old addage is if you are paying for work to be done then you need to request the old parts up front before the work is done. This way you keep them alittle more honest because they have to return old parts when requested. Also keep all reciepts so if you run into a problem in the future you can pursue legal action against those clowns.
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    Quote Originally Posted by snagg30341
    Finally had to take it to the dealer. Turns out the difference in altitutude from the move is causing it to run way too rich and that is why the plugs were fouled and it ran so bad. What irritates me, is that when I lived in Houston I paid to install a jet kit. This shop says the jet kit was never installed. Its hard to know whats really happening and who is right.
    If your bike does indeed have the stock jetting yet, there is not a reason in the world why it should be running rich at 3700' IMO. I am at 2500' & regularly ride in the Black Hills (3500-7000') as well as going to the Rockies, Bighorns, Sierra Nevadas, etc., etc. It does run richer in the really high mountains, but never rich enough to foul any plugs. Are you sure that your choke knob & the 90 degree bend into the carb is staying where it should when not using the choke?
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    Yes, choke is a-ok as is 90 degree. I live at almost 4500-5000'. The jet in the carb was a 195 main jet and they say I need about 190 or 185 for this altitude. The old shop in Houston sent a new main jet, but that is not the same as a total re-jet, no needles, etc. I am thinking of just biting the bullet and having them rejet it up here so I have a local place to take it back with and atleast the bike will be modified to run as correct as possible for this location. What do you think? Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by snagg30341
    What do you think?
    Depends how much faith you have in the shop. If they're going to stick with it and get it right - it may be worth it for you. BUT - most shops will throw in a jet and call it "jetted" and send you on you merry way with the same propblem or worse. I don't see how they can make a blanket statement with the "you need a 190 or 185 at this elevation". I dont have any problems riding up in the mountains north of here, and I'm running a 198.
    IMO - learn how to do it yourself. Nobody's going to take an interest in your bike like you will (or should).
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    [quote="snagg30341"]Yes, choke is a-ok as is 90 degree. I live at almost 4500-5000'. The jet in the carb was a 195 main jet and they say I need about 190 or 185 for this altitude. The old shop in Houston sent a new main jet, but that is not the same as a total re-jet, no needles, etc. I am thinking of just biting the bullet and having them rejet it up here so I have a local place to take it back with and atleast the bike will be modified to run as correct as possible for this location. What do you think? Thanks![/quote] Sorry, I looked up El Paso,TX on Google Earth & it said it was 3700'.
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    Default spit n' spudder

    STABIL STABIL STABIL ALL THE TIME USE IT WHEN YOU FILL UP BEFORE YOU PUT IT TO SLEEP. NEVER NEED TO WORRY. i LIVE IN pA. AND RIDE EVEN IN THE SNOW BEFOR THEY SALT. NEVER HAVE A PROBLEM WHEN STARTING OR RIDING.

  23. #22

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    Thanks for all of the replies and all of the help. Talke with the dealer, they are going to totally re-jet with new jet kit, add K and N, and then tune it correctly to the new airfilter, new jet kit/pipes, and altitude. Seems like an honest shop and they never put the pressure on to buy stuff. This just seems like the right way to get it done correctly and then I can get it out and enjoy it, like I should!

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