What should I set the spark plug gap at on a 02 1800 C? They are pre gapped but I bought the NGK 6341 instead of the 6502. They are cheaper by $3 a piece. Don't know what these come gapped at but they sure look narrow.
dbx said:If your buying plugs other than OEM, the mfgs. gap may be set for something other than what the X ignition calls for. In that case you should check, and set, if neccessary.
Yet another good reason not to run a plug other than the IFR5L11...dbx said:If your buying plugs other than OEM, the mfgs. gap may be set for something other than what the X ignition calls for. In that case you should check, and set, if neccessary.
birdiemn said:Yet another good reason not to run a plug other than the IFR5L11...dbx said:If your buying plugs other than OEM, the mfgs. gap may be set for something other than what the X ignition calls for. In that case you should check, and set, if neccessary.
Yes, a little never-seize on the threads of your plugs is a good idea.
Ride on !GR8PHUN said:It is a no brainer to check the gap.
At most it adds four minutes to instalation.
I always check the gap and INDEX the plugs.
May help may not,but as an old hot rodder from 50's and 60's it makes sense to direct the flame path toward the intake valve.
If you do a bit of searching you can find the answers to almost any question on this forum. That's not the only difference between those plugs...240VTX said:I would not have bought these if it were not NGK Ideneron's. The $10 plugs only diff. was a laser something or another and the gap size.
The other difference you may not have noticed is the IFR5L-11 plugs have a platinum ground vs. a steel ground on the BKR5EIX-11. I believe this is what creates the resistance difference and changes the spark.Tapper said:For now, I'll recommend the following two plugs:
NGK IFR5L11
NGK IFR7L11 (10.5-1 compression)
Denso VK16PRZ11
Denso VK22PRZ11 (10.5-1 compression)
Note: Many dealers have been recommending a different NGK plug, however, NGK says that plug is the wrong resistance, and recommends the above noted plug - which agrees with the service manual exactly.
+1 What he said.birdiemn said:I'm not a believer in installing an inferior plug that may not work as well and probably won't last as long. The OEM plug for an '02 was the IFR6L-11, they were changed to the IFR5L-11 (a slightly hotter plug) in the '03 and newer models.
These iridium plugs usually last a long time. They can be cleaned with carb cleaner and a toothbrush, and if the electrode and gap are good there's no reason not to reuse them. I've had my current ones in there for 16000 miles and they look great and gap out perfect.
Tests have been run that find the OEM recommended plug to be superior to it's cheaper replacements. Why compromise on something that is essential to the motor's proper operation to save a total of $12 every few years? It doesn't make sense to me, but, I can only speak for what I do with my bike and for my own opinions. YMMV. :wink:
First of all, please understand that this isn't just directed at you, it is documenting some facts for posterity. Somewhere along the way someone will search "spark plugs" in the tech forum and they will read this thread. I just want to make sure that they can read enough to make an informed decision.240VTX said:Just took my bike for a ride with the 6341's (instead of the 6502's) and it runs great and much smoother than the NGK standard cold plugs that were put in it by the Honda dealer. All's good.
Two problems:240VTX said:"Now let's say that you run the BKR5EIX-11 at $6.99 each, but they have to be changed every 8,000 miles. Now you're spending $56 on plugs every 16,000 miles, plus you have potentially lost fuel efficiency."
I understand it's not directed at me. It's ok. But your statement above is not ture. I also will run these plugs as long as there is no wear and the gap is correct. These should be as good as the 6502's. They are Iridium's also so they should last as long. Won't be changing every 8K like the 6502's.