1300 Valve Adjustment

[Poison]

Pick a nice spot and get the bike up on a stand. This is optional, you can do it in the driveway just
as well, but I prefer to have the bike straight and the added height makes it easier on the old
back. Engine must be stone cold!!! You cannot properly check / adjust the valves on a warm bike.


Secure the forks so they don’t swing around and bash your tank when you remove it. I used some
ratcheting tie downs (not too tight!) but bungees or rope would work as well.


Unhook the green speedo connections behind the right front plug cover. Remove the gas line and
vacuum hose from the tank valve. Remove the seat and tank bolt, then lift the tank and remove
the vent hose under the bottom right corner. Lift the tank up, then slide it back and off. Set the tank
safely out of the way on 2 pieces of 2 x 4 so the valve won’t be mashed on the floor.


You will have to remove the PAIR valve bracket and hose to slide it out of the way. Remove the timing
hole cover and timing hole cap to view the index marks


The timing cap is located beneath the shiny plasti-chrome timing cover. Remove it


I found it easier to remove the airbox. Remove the three Philips and the 10mm bolt. The throttle screw
knob pops off by slipping it backwards. There are two hoses hidden behind the box that slip right off.


Remove the valve covers. To adjust the front, rotate the crankshaft clockwise and align the “FT”
mark on the drive with the index mark. Remove one plug from each cylinder to make it easier to
turn the engine. Make sure you are on the compression stroke by grabbing the rocker arms
and wiggling them. If they don’t move, you will need to rotate the crank one full turn. Valves are
adjusted with a 10 mm offset box and a 4 mm open end. Intake is .006 ± .001 and Exhaust is
.012 ± .001 INCHES. If a valve is out of spec, when you loosen it, add a drop or two of engine oil
to the adjusting threads and seating surface.


Here is a shot with the “FT” mark aligned with the index to find Top Dead Center on the front cylinder.
Anywhere between the two marks is just fine.


Align the index mark to the “RT” on the drive to do the rear. Same specs.


Here is a shot with the “RT” mark aligned with the index to find Top Dead Center on the rear cylinder.
Remember to be sure you are on the compression stroke by grabbing the rocker arm and wiggling it.
http://bigbikeriders.com/photopost/data ... _Index.jpg

When you button everything back up, clean off the o-rings and check for nicks or tears. If they are i
n poor shape, they’ll need to be replaced (my originals are still on). Lubricate all the o-rings with
clean engine oil. The exhaust and timing cap threads get a coating of grease.

Torque Values:

(4) Intake cover bolts – 6.5 lbs/ft

(1) Timing hole cap - 13 lbs/ft

(6) Tappet Locknut - 16 lbs/ft

(6) Socket bolts for plasi-chrome cover – 7 lbs/ft

(4) Spark plugs – 10 lbs/ft (Use a small amount of non-copper based anti seize on the threads)

(1) 10mm air cleaner mounting bolt – 7 lbs/ft

(3) Phillips air cleaner screws – 2.9 lbs/ft

Pictured are the tools I used – a 10mm offset box, feeler gauges, and a 4 mm open end. I had to shorten
up the .012 so it wouldn’t hit the radiator while doing the front.


I used these offest gauges from Sears....still had to trim to fit. Be sure to remove any burr from trimming them.:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product. ... alty+Tools

Notes:

Remove a spark plug from each cylinder to make it (much) easier to turn that timing bolt.

Once you adjust a cylinder - rotate the timing bolt around for a few cycles - align your mark
(compression stroke!!) and check them again. You really want to be sure you have it right - your mind will rest easier.

I like to feel a moderate drag on the correct feeler gauge. I know I got it right if both of the following is true:
(1) – the next size up does NOT fit (or fits very tightly) and (2) - the next size down slides easily.
With a little practice, you’ll be able to get them just right.

Take your time - it is not a difficult job but it does require patience. I think the hardest part was
trimming the gauges to get them to fit right and figuring the right angle to get them in there.
VERY IMPORTANT to slide it straight in there and not touch the heads. If it's flexing in at an angle you'll
get a bad read. Be warned - space is tight. Rear intake is especially tight.

BE ON THE CORRECT (COMPRESSION) STROKE!!!!
You will know this - you'll be able to feel the rockers wiggling around.

DO NOT DROP YOUR TOOLS INSIDE THE HEAD!!!! If you feel like you're the type that bad things
happen to, tie a string to those little tools.

Finally - after adjustment - your going to hear the valves - this is normal. But you know everything is
O.K. since you double checked everything. Now aren't you glad you did that?

[toasted_3111979]

Poison, small first time valve adjuster here. What exactly do you mean by "trimming" the gauges? Are you talking about trimming the "sides" of the gauges to fit in the hole. If that's what your talking about, I'm thinking of using a dremel tool with a fine grinder bit, yeah, no?

- -Miker

Cutting them shorter in length so you can fit it in the space.

[HamHanded]

Thank you Poison,

Three of my intake valves were too tight on my 12K mile VTX-S and this write-up was the best. Your advice to take my time was both true and comforting. I also discovered a trick that helped me hold the feeler gauges. I've read other blogs that attached them to hacksaw blades etc. But, if you want to go back and forth between the next highest and next lower gauge, you would need to mount 6 feeler gauges. You can grip any size guage in the handle made for "Exacto" knifes and it is reusable. It holds them straight, angled or side-ways which is great for the exhaust valve on the front cylinder. Together with your write-up, this was a piece of cake. Thanks again.

[Chicago-Spike]

Guys, this is the "How To" section and is intended to be just helpful How to threads. Please ask your questions on either the 1300 board or the 1800 Tech board. Read the sticky threads on ALL the boards before posting;
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205902
Thanks

[Concho]

Thank you Poison,

Three of my intake valves were too tight on my 12K mile VTX-S and this write-up was the best. Your advice to take my time was both true and comforting. I also discovered a trick that helped me hold the feeler gauges. I've read other blogs that attached them to hacksaw blades etc. But, if you want to go back and forth between the next highest and next lower gauge, you would need to mount 6 feeler gauges. You can grip any size guage in the handle made for "Exacto" knifes and it is reusable. It holds them straight, angled or side-ways which is great for the exhaust valve on the front cylinder. Together with your write-up, this was a piece of cake. Thanks again.

These will work as well to hold your feeler gauges.

[Stindi]

Removing the timing cap...
I was a little confused on this. It is the large bolt head in the middle (17mm). It is quite tight, but once you remove it, with the right angle, you can see the timing marks.

Secondly, if you have floorboards, you might want to loosen the right one. It makes it easier to get to the bottom two bolts on the plasti cover.

C. USE A STRING on ANYTHING that can fall into the engine. That 4mm wrench it's almost a must.

4. When removing one plug from each cylinder... if you remove the front right and rear left, you can easily turn the engine and place a finger over the open hole to feel when you are coming up on the compression stroke. Even with your finger covering the spark plug hole, it becomes hard to turn. Now that you know you are on the right stroke, line up your marks for which ever cylinder you are on.

Finally, have a flashlight handy. It makes it easier to see your timing marks and the gaps between the adjustment screws and the valve stems.

While I only got the front intakes done on my first attempt, Poison's directions are right on. I thank him for his time and effort.

Hope this helps someone...
Steve

[JGROOT]

Hey, When adjusting valves, I have found it a good idea to put a zip-tie through the box end of the 4mm wrench and do not trim it off. This way, if you drop the wrench into the cylinder head, it won't fall too far into the head and there is a nice piece of nylon to grab so you can pull it back out. I found this out the hard way. That little wrench gets slippery when it has oil on it.

[dtberry]

All my adjustments were tight except for the rear exhaust. I only had to back the adjustment screw out approx. 1/8 or a turn to achieve .006" on the intakes (middle 4) and .012" on the exhaust. My rear exhaust was fine. When adjusting the adjusters....back off the lock nut with the 10mm offset box end wrench turn your screw in til you have slight drag on the feeler. Now place the 10mm offset back on the locking nut and hold the top of the adjuster screw with the 4mm wrench. Now snug the locking screw down to the rocker arm (this will help keep from having the ajuster screw turn on you when you torque the locking nut with your torque wrench. You need to torque all lock nuts!!! Now do you double and triple checks.
Remember when your bike was new and you could hear that clatter coming from the motor....you are going to hear that again so don't be alarmed. You have just made it easier for the valves to move to fully close and things are a little looser now...just like they should be.

[Chicago-Spike]

Is the correct open end wrench 4 mm it just seems to small , as I was looking at my 6mm and it just seems so tiny, just Thought maybe it was typed in wrong, sorry, I know you have already done a adjustment, also any tips on how to adjust the valves with the wrenchs, any help is greatly appreciatied rkeene

Yes, it is a 4mm wrench and how many more tips other than all the above tips?

[Poison]

What are the torque values on the lock nuts?

16 lbs/ft
I added to the how-to, and also corrected the intake cover torque.

I really don't know of many people that torque much of that stuff though - space is way to tight up under there.

[Poison]

However im having a heck of a time with the 4mm wrench! Where are you all getting this phantom 4mm wrench?

It's in the sears ignition wrench set....or HDL has the Honda one....or you can cut a 4mm notch in a piece of scrap metal....or you can hold it with some needlenose pliers.


http://www.directlineparts.com/produ...id=5817&str=12

[titanium681]

[QUOTE=armyrecruiter;2321221]Why is a Harley owner still creeping around on the Honda Board and taking shots at owners that are obviously hesitant but want to learn to do their own wrenching? Isn't there a Harley board or 12 or 25 that you could be lurking and posting? I'm sorry if this comes out spiteful, but really, LaMont does a bang up job of taking care of the Honda VTX forum.... and enforcing the general rules of what to post where.... bottom line to me is that if someone wants info, they should get the info....[/QUOTE

I know a guy who owns an Ultra Classic, races Ducati's, and rebuilds Indians.

Go figure

[anyride]

the feeler guages. Thanks.I shall make an entry into the VTX log!Seriously,I have 2 full books and will start a third soon of tips,most of em from here.

[mh05-1300r]

just got done adjusting the valves on my 05 as far as the 4mm wrench I found that you dont really need it i dont have one lost most of my old ignition wrenches over the years since everything is pointless ignition anymore lol anyway if you use a .005,.006,.007 and mix and match for the exhaust and tape them together just back off the lock nut slide the .006 in turn the center bolt/stud in finger tight then turn the lock nut down finger tight,recheck the drag then tighten the lock nut ,tip if the drsg is too tight after locking the nut back it off 1/4 turn or so then re tighten it and check again backing off the nut will usually loosen the stud a tad and with practice you can get a feel for it if that doesent work just re adjust with fingers or needle nose pliers. hope this helps someone

[Donut]

Thank you Poison,

Three of my intake valves were too tight on my 12K mile VTX-S and this write-up was the best. Your advice to take my time was both true and comforting. I also discovered a trick that helped me hold the feeler gauges. I've read other blogs that attached them to hacksaw blades etc. But, if you want to go back and forth between the next highest and next lower gauge, you would need to mount 6 feeler gauges. You can grip any size guage in the handle made for "Exacto" knifes and it is reusable. It holds them straight, angled or side-ways which is great for the exhaust valve on the front cylinder. Together with your write-up, this was a piece of cake. Thanks again.

Sorry but I have to disagree with you on this one. If the gage ever comes loose you will have a big mess on your hands trying to dig and find the gauge when it drops down into the engine. We have had many bad stories in the past from members dropping gauges and broken pieces of wrenches into the engine.
All my gauges are 2 1/2"long with a hole drilled into the ends with 80# fishing line tied to them. my over and under guages are tied together one on each end of a 1ft one and the go guage has a 1 foot ine tide to it. I even have string tied to all my wrenches.

Donut/Doug

[pland01]

I don't seem to have problems seeing in-post pics on other threads but I don't see any of the associated pictures from the original post here. I'm at 9000 miles and would like to check my valves and would LOVE to see the pics if you still have them, just to make sure I'm messing with the right parts. Thanks!

[Hans&Feet]

Main page::: http://www.vtx1300tips.com/vtx1300ti...__________.htm

Valve adj--service man: http://www.vtx1300tips.com/Valveadjustmentmanual.pdf
Valve adj-Poison tutorial: http://www.vtx1300tips.com/Valveadjustingbypoision.pdf

My comments and suggestions from my first valve adjustment::
VTX 1300c Valve adjusting by Hans&Feet 27jun2005 Work done 24jun2005 4 hours duration.
!. Get the tutorial by Poison. Print it! Read it!
**** IF YOU CANNOT TIGHTEN SMALL MACHINE SCREWS ALL DAY
**** WITHOUT BREAKING THEM, PRACTICE ON SOMETHING ELSE.
**** USE YOUR FINGERS NOT YOUR PALMS WHEN TIGHTENING SMALL NUTS AND BOLTS.
2. A jack is not necessary, BUT tie your RIGHT front fork to the frame to keep the fork from turning left when on the side stand.
3. Try to have a near empty tank, half full is still a balancing act with petrol sloshing around.
4. Use a small nail or jeweler's screwdriver to release the catch tab, then remove the speedo electrical connections.
**** OR remove bottom 3 screws on speedo cluster and remove it from the tank by pushing forward>>remove gas cap also<<<
5. Disconnect 3 hose connections to fuel tank: 1 gas + 1 vacuum at petcock, 1 vent at bottom right. (Right above rear right plug cover) I forgot the bot right hose, it pulled itself off while lifting the tank. Remove the airbox screws and hoses.
6. Remove the chrome timing cover. Use a 17mm 6pt socket to un-screw the timing cap cover. The same 17mm socket with a short extension can be used to turn the crankshaft clockwise. Remove a sparkplug from each cylinder to make it easy to turn engine over. The sparkplugs were the easiest threaded object to break loose.
"FT" is Forward cylinder, Top Dead Center(TDC). Have the pointer aimed at the "FT" mark to adj the FRONT cylinder valves. Use a 8mm or 5/16 6pt socket or wrench to remove the intake covers. It took a surprising amount of torque to break them loose. I used a small crescent wrench to un-screw the Exhaust cover. Grab the rockers and see if you can move them up and down. You should be able to hear the clicks when you move them up and down. You want to be on the compression stroke TDC. My .012(exh) guage was straight, now it has mutiple angles to get it between the rocker and valve. The .006(int) was flexible enough to use as is, but next time I will shorten both. I did not have an offset 10mm box, I used a 10mm combo wrench or a 6pt socket. When you think you have set the gap with the screw, snug the locknut SLIGHTLY, then recheck your gap. Loose is better than tight!! You can always use another gauge if you think the gap is too big, but remember when you tighten the locknut, the adj screw will turn some unless you have that 4mm wrench(I did not). Recheck the setting after you tighten the locknut. Remember--the feeler guage has to be parallel to the top of the valve stem! The INTAKE covers have an "UP" designator. Do not over-tighten the O-ring sealed covers. Use your fingers on the wrenches to tighten.
7. Now to the back cylinder. I removed the crankcase breather hose and pipe on the right side for more room. Unbolt PAIR valve. I removed a small coolant hose under the PAIR valve at a "Y" and plugged it with a pencil. Turn crank to "RT" for REAR Top Dead Center(TDC). Verify you are on the compression stroke by moving the rockers. Adjust valves carefully as you did for the front. Re-check before restoring covers. Re-connect the coolant and breather hoses if you took them off. Install the airbox, the larger hose is fun to reconnect(a little short). Install the gas tank, reconnect 3 hoses and 2 electrical connectors. Turn the petcock on! Install your sparkplugs.
I always put a few drops of oil on the threads. Install the engine covers. Untie forks! Start engine.
8. I had 3 intake valves at .005, one tighter(RL), one exhaust at .011(F) and one exh(R) at .012
9. It took about 4 hrs, many trips to the basement to get other tools, take pix, write notes.
Check your engine oil and tires on a regular basis. Ride safe and have fun!

http://vtx1300tips.com/Valveadjustingbypoision.pdf
http://vtx1300tips.com/Valveadjustmentmanual.pdf

From Texas X Riders board, which came from VTXOA:
Here's the REAL trick for a valve adjustment. >>Some VTXers tighten their valve lash this way<<

Adjust the valves as the book states, but don't tighten anything. Once you have your settings where they should be, rotate the engine such that the rockers are putting pressure on the valve adjustment screws. NOW tighten them up. No more guessing or constant readjustment - they won't go out of adjustment while you tighten. It makes valve adjustments a 20 minute affair. (and most of that is getting the covers off)