Tire Question - Radial vs Bias Ply on spoke wheel
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Thread: Tire Question - Radial vs Bias Ply on spoke wheel

  1. #1
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    Default Tire Question - Radial vs Bias Ply on spoke wheel

    I ride an 1800 vtx S, with spokes. My motorcycle tire source says I should not put radials on my vtx, because I have to use tubes with my spoked wheels, and the tubes will generate heat inside the radials, more than the bias ply tires, and is a safety threat. Well, maybe I don't need radials, but I was thinking it might handle just a bit better. So would the radials handle noticibly better? But, will a tube inside a tubeless radial motorcycle tire generate too much heat? Do I need to stick with bias ply tires to be safe? Thanks in advance.

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    Senior Member XRiderChuck's Avatar
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    yeah, what he ast'
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    Senior Member sixwillwin's Avatar
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    Stick with the bias on your bike. Usually best to do what the manufacturer recommends. Radials won't handle "better". Dont know about your heat question.
    2003 1800C with 1800 final! - 250/240 rear, Jug Huggers, painted engine/polished fins, big bars, tank raised, lotsa stuff SOLD Now 2013 Victory Cross Country in Suede Nuclear Sunset

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    Senior Member House O' Pain's Avatar
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    Default Good question!

    Good question, found this on the web after a look >

    First the basics; there are two types of tire construction: bias-ply and radial. A safe generalization is that most cruisers use bias ply tires, and sportbikes use radials. (Spoke wheels require a tube to maintain tire pressure, while cast wheels allow for a tubeless tire). A bias-ply tire has a round profile, and tall sidewalls. A radial tire has a flatter profile, and shorter sidewalls.

    In a bias-ply tire, the carcass (the material beneath the tires tread) is made up of overlapping layers of nylon or rayon cords. Each of the several layers stretch across the tire at opposite angles forming an X pattern, hence the term "bias." Some tires add another layer on top of the plies, called belts, and those run in the direction of the tire rotation. As a tire rotates, the small portion of the tire that meets the pavement, the "contact patch," flattens out for a split second. So as the tire rotates, it is constantly flattening out, and rebounding into shape. That constant flexing action generates heat, which is good for grip. But too much heat is the enemy, as it decreases performance and accelerates tire wear.

    A radial tire has its plies running "radially" at a 90 angle to the direction of the rotation. This design reduces heat generation, so the tires run cooler. The downside is that the sidewalls flex easier, so they are given a shorter profile. The lower profile means that they can't handle heavier loads that a large heavy cruiser, with a passenger and baggage, requires. A cruiser's suspension design and cornering needs are better suited to bias ply tires, so always check to make sure a tire is approved for your particular bike before buying.

    The introduction of radial tires required changes to certain characteristics of the motorcycle. The development of the radial tire led to frame modifications, new steering geometries and suspensions. That's why it is recommended that a motorcycle be used with the type of tire construction that it came with originally.


    More reading here: http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/379/74...uct-Guide.aspx

    Hope this answers your question, it did mine.
    Last edited by House O' Pain; 02-27-2009 at 10:59 PM.
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    Thanks House! That pretty much sums it up. Guess I'll stick with bias plies on my vtx.

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    Senior Member sixwillwin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReRide View Post
    Thanks House! That pretty much sums it up. Guess I'll stick with bias plies on my vtx.
    Hey, thats what I said too! Ah, thats alright, no one ever believes me on anything......
    Last edited by sixwillwin; 02-27-2009 at 11:03 PM.
    2003 1800C with 1800 final! - 250/240 rear, Jug Huggers, painted engine/polished fins, big bars, tank raised, lotsa stuff SOLD Now 2013 Victory Cross Country in Suede Nuclear Sunset

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    Senior Member gadabb's Avatar
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    Default bia/radial tires FYI

    FYI, I run a radial CT with a motorcycle tube on the rear and a bias Metzler on the front with mc tube.
    I've run the ct for two years and 16k with out a problem.
    I ran it from Ft Worth Tx to Pensacola Florida, 750 miles at 85-90 indicated for 11 hrs stopping only for gas, with out a problem.
    Checked tire temps by hand, the rear didn't appear any wamer than the front.
    The CT at 16k still has more tread depth left on it then the new rear metzler I've had sitting in the shed.
    Take what you want from this, just passing on my experiences
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    Senior Member VTXHOGG's Avatar
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    I run tubeless and love it!

    I read about a company in Calf that seals rims. There was enough info to do it yourself. You need to install a airvalve nipple. The sealant they used to seal the rim with is polysulfide. This stuff seals wings and access plates on Jets. I applied about a 1/8 to 1/4" of this stuff to the channel with the spokes , using a couple plates that I made from foam rubber and chip board I used a shop vac to draw the Polysulfide into the Spoke holes for the first 8 hrs of drying.

    After a FAILED attempt to go to the Darkside.

    Great Plains (local bike shop) just happened to have a WW Metzler Tire in stock.Running only Dunlops for 47K, I thought that they were as good as it gets. But running the new Bias Metzler w/o a tube made a big difference solo and a huge difference two up. It suppose to last longer, is sticker, and handles bumps much better, heck the wife even swears to that !!

  10. #9
    Senior Member Acrotech's Avatar
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    FWIW I spoke with Metzeler rep. directly and they claim you can safely run a tube in their radials.

  11. #10
    wayne
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    Ive been running tubeless for over 20k now, I used 3M 5200
    Cost is about $12 a tire to do it, and you dont have to send them off, so theres no shipping.
    Tubeless, the only way to go.

  12. #11
    Senior Member vtxbronco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadabb View Post
    FYI, I run a radial CT with a motorcycle tube on the rear and a bias Metzler on the front with mc tube.
    I've run the ct for two years and 16k with out a problem.
    I ran it from Ft Worth Tx to Pensacola Florida, 750 miles at 85-90 indicated for 11 hrs stopping only for gas, with out a problem.
    Checked tire temps by hand, the rear didn't appear any wamer than the front.
    The CT at 16k still has more tread depth left on it then the new rear metzler I've had sitting in the shed.
    Take what you want from this, just passing on my experiences
    yep..i run a metz radial up front with tube..i have the s
    and a bias ply rear..cause mets dont make a radial for the rear i wanted
    200 x 70 x 15 metz only has bias for the size i wanted.

    did the 200 mile tire ruff up...and boom..no problems or handling difference
    at all..have 7k miles on so far ,still look new...

    the folklor of mixing a bias tire with a radial is for cars not bikes..

    there is no heat issue either..


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  13. #12
    wayne
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    Quote Originally Posted by vtxbronco View Post
    yep..i run a metz radial up front with tube..i have the s
    and a bias ply rear..cause mets dont make a radial for the rear i wanted
    200 x 70 x 15 metz only has bias for the size i wanted.

    did the 200 mile tire ruff up...and boom..no problems or handling difference
    at all..have 7k miles on so far ,still look new...

    the folklor of mixing a bias tire with a radial is for cars not bikes..

    there is no heat issue either..

    +1
    The radial up front is the only way to go.
    I ran the 150-17 and then put on the 140-17 bias, and the radial lasted longer and handled better than the bias.

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