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Another ticking motor ?

2K views 16 replies 12 participants last post by  mctoy 
#1 ·
My bike has about 2900 miles on it. Read just about EVERY 'TICKING' post. Not convinced it got the 600 mile service. I know these V-twins make valve noises, and I was fairly used to the sound of my bike. My (new) noise started just recently from the right front exh. area. When I first heard it, it was a sort of "Dee Dee Dee Dee Dee" sound that follows engine RPM. First thought was something (Exh. cover) was loose. NADA.... Thinking then it might be pinging, and since I was near reserve, I filled w/Shell 93 octane. Sound still there , but has become more of a metallic "tick, tick, tick" now.
PS: FWIW, Just changed to Mobile1 Racing T40 in 10-40 wt 30 miles or so prior. (Don't really think this has anything to do with it, but offering up everything I know.)
I am a fair wrench, though new to VTX's so plan is to check exhaust acorns and then do a valve adjustment if it is still there. (?) Have read POISON's post on adjusting, and looks to be pretty straight forward.
Any other ideas?

***Dealer said "No adjustment/inspection needed at 2900 miles" even though the manual suggests it at 600 (?)
He also said "We can check it out and change your fluids for $250...If we need to adjust the valves then around $350"...
HOLY DOO-DOO BATMAN !!!!
:yikes:
 
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#2 ·
First 87 octain they run better. Is there a possibility you have an exhaust leak at the gasket. In a quiet area tape a small piece of tissue paper to the end of a pencil an start the engine and see if it moves by the exhaust gasket.
Some in the past have had the acorn nut bottom out before getting tight and had to put a washer under the acorn nut so it would tighten up.

Donut
 
#4 ·
First 87 octain they run better. Is there a possibility you have an exhaust leak at the gasket. In a quiet area tape a small piece of tissue paper to the end of a pencil an start the engine and see if it moves by the exhaust gasket.
Some in the past have had the acorn nut bottom out before getting tight and had to put a washer under the acorn nut so it would tighten up.

Donut
:agree: At 2900 miles your bike's engine has expanded and contracted enough to likely loosen up the exhaust port studs/nuts. Check the acorns for any looseness. If you find them to be loose then remove one at a time, coat the stud threads with anti-seize, re-install the acorn, and tighten properly. If you have enough room to put a washer on before the acorn then go ahead and put one on to avoid bottomed acorn nuts.

If you do Donut's tissue check just make sure the radiator fan is not running...
 
#7 ·
Where did you learn that nifty trick?
Its called a Shadetree Mechanic's Stethoscope. I used to use a big screwdriver on valve covers over the valves to listen to them individually.

-Gonz
 
#8 ·
I have a ling rod a little bigger than the diameter of a coat hanger that is based to the center of a large soup can. It acts like a megaphone when you put it up to your ear and touch it to an engine. Works really good.
I learn this from an old timer that use to be a car mechanic back in the 30 th's.

Donut
 
#9 ·
If you can get a 1" wooden dowel rod 2-3 ft long, place 1 end on the area that's ticking, your ear on the other end, you'll be able to isolate where it's coming from...I know. I know. but it really DOES work.
I use a section of garden hose, same principle and yes it does work. :thumbup:
 
#11 ·
Tick

Thanks fellas!
I put the high octane gas in to eliminate whether it was pinging, normally run 87 Shell or Chevron only. I am pretty meticulous about fuel/oil type etc on all my vehicles, running Mobil1 and changing at 5K. I know I could go to a longer interval, but it makes me feel good knowing the oil is always fresh, and 5K is easy to remember. Changed to M1 synth. in the rear end also.
I DO intend to do the Shade tree stethoscope and smoke/tissue test to narrow it down. I am hoping it is just exhaust washer loose. Concerned me some because it does sound 'metallic' and started shortly after changing oil, but then the bike only has 2900 miles on it. The oil was changed once by the person I bought it from so has something less than 2900 on it. Oil was brown, but still 'clear' with no debris in it when I changed it. Don't really think any oil passage could be plugged.
Thanks again fellas, will let y'all know the outcome.
 
#12 ·
Ticking

Ok.... 3K miles.
Still ticking....not terrible, but it's there, just about at 'shift point'.
So I tried the smoke/tissue test and don't see any leak. Put washers under acorns anyways. Checked heat shields...I think they are ok. Adjusted valves...front exh. was a tad tight, but still no joy. Ticking is ONLY at about 2K RPM under load. Doesn't do it when stationary, whether in gear or not. I DO have the exhaust gaskets to try next....
Maybe this is the 'normal' clatter I've read so much about? :dontknow:
 
#13 ·
If you only have a noise at 2k under load...its probably just one of the many noises you can get from these bikes......headlight rattle, speedo rattle, etc.....
 
#14 ·
Not coing to ask how old you are, lol. My Dad showed me that trick many years ago, that very old school. And yea, does work, :thumbup: Smitt
If you can get a 1" wooden dowel rod 2-3 ft long, place 1 end on the area that's ticking, your ear on the other end, you'll be able to isolate where it's coming from...I know. I know. but it really DOES work.
 
#15 ·
I had an engine tick develop about a month after i bought the bike and looked for it for at least two weeks. Found the rear exhaust heat shield at the engine was tapping against the acorn nut. It was hard to find at first because the shield was at least an 1/8" away from touching anything and the noise was sparadic. I found it when i was standing next to the bike and blipped the throttle and heard it again. I rotated the shield about a 1/16" and haven't had any ticking noise since then and that was 3 yrs ago.
 
#16 ·
To make a listening stick a little easier to put ear against.
This is my favorite for 20+yrs.
Flat door trim 3-4 feet long so you don't have to bend down reaching
the point to listen to.
Taper one end to a point, cut back from tip a long taper a foot long.

It can reach in under the hood of car down to water pump.
I used to use the headset stethoscope, but they can blow your eardrum
if rod strikes an object.
 
#17 ·
Hmmmm

If you only have a noise at 2k under load...its probably just one of the many noises you can get from these bikes......headlight rattle, speedo rattle, etc.....

You know Poison, it DID begin after I corrected those OTHER annoying rattles (Speedo/headlight) I love this bike, and the only other scooter I would be interested in is a GL1800. (If anyone has a real low mileage one that wants to trade plus....ummm maybe $10K)
 
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