my vtx 1300 won't start
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Thread: my vtx 1300 won't start

  1. #1
    Junior Member ronjr74's Avatar
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    Default my vtx 1300 won't start

    if someone could please help me my vtx 1300r wont start,just a single click. battery new power to the starter when u hit starter swich. i lost my mind!!!

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  3. #2
    Senior Member arcangel455's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ronjr74 View Post
    if someone could please help me my vtx 1300r wont start,just a single click. battery new power to the starter when u hit starter swich. i lost my mind!!!
    I would start by checking the battery connections to make sure that they are tight.
    Also you stated that the battery is new? How new? I ask because I know some batterys that are bought new need to be charged before you can use them.
    Last but not least ( and I doubt this is the problem) your starter switch may be on its way out.

    Give these ideas a check and let us know where your at. With all the smart people on this site im sure we will have you back up and running in no time.
    03 VTX 1300 Cetro Illusion Blue w/ to many mods to mention, and still adding!

    The journey begins by getting on the bike!

  4. #3
    Junior Member ronjr74's Avatar
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    well the battery is new and charged it before i put it in, the starter switch seems to be fine i just not sure about the relay, four wires in and one wire is very dim when you hit the starter switch.

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    kickstand up?
    killswitch to run?
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    '04 1300 C, black, RIP
    '04 1300 C, orange, for now
    shut up and ride

  6. #5
    Junior Member ronjr74's Avatar
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    ya i think i tried all the dumb moves but keep them coming i might have missed one

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    Senior Member cruiser7734's Avatar
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    Default

    Check fuses

  8. #7
    Senior Member mneccspv's Avatar
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    Default wont start

    Try running hot lead diretly to starter to make sure it is working.

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    you can jump across the 2 terminals at the starter relay and see if that works. If so, you have a problem with one of the safeties or start button.
    Make sure you are in neutral for this test as the bike absolutely will roll off on you if in gear.

    Also, a new battery can be bad.
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    '04 1300 C, black, RIP
    '04 1300 C, orange, for now
    shut up and ride

  10. #9
    Junior Member ronjr74's Avatar
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    i jumped by the starter relay and nothing. i suppose that means starter is out?

  11. #10
    Junior Member ronjr74's Avatar
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    plus there is no draw on battery, battery stays at 12.54 even when i hit the starter switch

  12. #11
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    maybe a bad ground cable? or the other end of it loose from the block?
    http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic173_1.gif
    '04 1300 C, black, RIP
    '04 1300 C, orange, for now
    shut up and ride

  13. #12
    Senior Member gulliverstoe's Avatar
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    how's the headlight?

    it sounds like you were good and just replaced the battery and now dead-skees.

    Too young to be where I am going
    but too old to go back again
    2008 Honda X 13T- Gone Feb 2010
    2010 Vic X Country

  14. #13
    Senior Member jamieP's Avatar
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    New battery in known good bike. now doesn't work. I highly suspect battery.
    Upstate SC.

  15. #14
    Senior Member JOSHWALEE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamieP View Post
    New battery in known good bike. now doesn't work. I highly suspect battery.

    entia non sunt multiplicanda praeter necessitatem
    support your
    LOCAL 81

  16. #15
    Senior Member Donut's Avatar
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    I've been threw this over the years and putting a new battery didn't help.

    Three weeks ago I went threw all my wiring and checked everything. Since I did the below instructions I have not had any problems since.
    There are times when there is corrosion/oxidation and you cant even see it.
    First the charging system on you're bike is most likely OK. There is rarely any problem's with the system.


    I'd go back and clean the end of the cables on top and bottom of the connector and the battery post on the battery with a wire brush or better yet a Dremmel (with wire-brush) and also the threads on the battery bolt. Then add a lock washer (not a star washer) under the bolt head) to keep it tight. Then coat everything with Vaseline to prevent corrosion and oxidation. Also remove the left bottom cover below the Key and tighten the battery ground that is to the right of the shift pivot point, Its a 10MM. Mine was a little loose. A poor ground or week connection will draw a lot more current when under load. tightening with a screwdriver is not good enough, use a wrench or socket. Be careful and don't try to be superman, watch closely because you can brake the terminals off the battery.

    Donut
    Donut Doug

  17. #16
    Senior Member JOSHWALEE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by donut View Post
    I've been threw this over the years and putting a new battery didn't help.

    Three weeks ago I went threw all my wiring and checked everything. Since I did the below instructions I have not had any problems since.
    There are times when there is corrosion/oxidation and you cant even see it.
    First the charging system on you're bike is most likely OK. There is rarely any problem's with the system.


    I'd go back and clean the end of the cables on top and bottom of the connector and the battery post on the battery with a wire brush or better yet a Dremmel (with wire-brush) and also the threads on the battery bolt. Then add a lock washer (not a star washer) under the bolt head) to keep it tight. Then coat everything with Vaseline to prevent corrosion and oxidation. Also remove the left bottom cover below the Key and tighten the battery ground that is to the right of the shift pivot point, Its a 10MM. Mine was a little loose. A poor ground or week connection will draw a lot more current when under load. tightening with a screwdriver is not good enough, use a wrench or socket. Be careful and don't try to be superman, watch closely because you can brake the terminals off the battery.

    Donut
    Wow, you've got that copy and paste function down!

    entia non sunt multiplicanda praeter necessitatem
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  18. #17
    Senior Member Donut's Avatar
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    Yep! Copy and past works real good. Most of the time that is where the problem is. And when it done it eliminates a lot of guessing. I almost replaced my Starter and Solenoid because my symptoms were looking like they were bad. Now all my starting problems were fixes. Its a lot cheaper than replacing good battery's.
    Corrosion and oxidation can cause unseen problems. The battery ground has been known to be loose.

    Donut
    Donut Doug

  19. #18
    Senior Member Donut's Avatar
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    JOSHWALLE "Wow, you've got that copy and paste function down!"

    If it helps some dose it really matter.

    Donut
    Donut Doug

  20. #19
    Senior Member JOSHWALEE's Avatar
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    Relax Donut... I'm just poking at the bear.

    entia non sunt multiplicanda praeter necessitatem
    support your
    LOCAL 81

  21. #20
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    Default "new" batteries are often old from setting in an wharehouse

    for months+. The way batteries are made is very revealing. Back in 1981,I audited the Gould battery plant in Kankakee,Il and the big,big $$ batteries for both nuclear power plant emergency generators and for submarines are super units as well they must be. I observed a man sweeping up some of the spilled lead and saw him toss this into a barrel. When I inquired,I was told,"that stuff goes down the road to the "car" battery plant as they use much cheaper or "contaminated"(the sweepings I saw)stuff. If the voltage isn't dropping when you hit the starter,no connection is being made for whatever reason. These guys are all steering you in the right direction and keep listening to them.

  22. #21
    Senior Member mneccspv's Avatar
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    Default wont start

    is power getting to the relay? you did check the fuse right?

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