1300 Body Shop; XR Fairing mounting; Fainring Speakers
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Thread: 1300 Body Shop; XR Fairing mounting; Fainring Speakers

  1. #1
    Senior Member Shiner's Avatar
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    Default Improving your Xtreme Revolution Ultra Fairing Sound

    I received the email below today from Xtreme Revolution showing how they recommend modifying your UltraFairing to improve the amount of sound your stereo speaker output.

    They have now added these additional instructions to their standard fairing (attached) installation guide.


    UltraFairing Technical Bulletin Crank It Up!
    You have recieved this email because our records indicate you have an Xtreme Revolution UltraFairing and we wanted to share this tip with you.
    We have discovered a simple way to greatly increase the volume of the stereo in your UltraFairing. The problem is that the fairing is like a sealed drum, and for the speakers to move they actually have to compress the air in that sealed drum which steals away sound power. The solution is to create "tuned ports" for the fairing that allow the speakers to move freely. This is an old trick that has been used in speaker boxes for many years. If you create some tuned ports in the fairing you will notice a significant increase in the volume. The downside is that you will now have holes in the fairing -- bugs, mice, etc could get in. XR



    See attached PDF file for images and instructions.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    1800F Silver Tribal - Thornton CO

    If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough. - Mario Andretti

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  3. #2
    Senior Member Shiner's Avatar
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    Working on it. Made the port the other night. Planned to install today but will ride instead. I am hoping it will help provide a bit more base tones as well as overall volume.

    Good luck on finding the PVC reduces that XR shows in the instructions. I tried all the big box hardware store (home depot, lowes, ace) and ended up going with some PVC adapter that took a bit of modification to get right.




    Shiner
    Last edited by Shiner; 06-23-2009 at 02:41 PM.
    1800F Silver Tribal - Thornton CO

    If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough. - Mario Andretti

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    Senior Member Shiner's Avatar
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    IMO, I believe the ports allow the speakers to create more volume by moving more freely. I notice I can get loader now with out as much distortion.
    It may have help increase the base tones somewhat as well, hard to say.
    As Iron Pony says, it a cheap mod that does seam to help and does not have to look like an after though.

    Shiner

    Last edited by Shiner; 08-04-2009 at 05:04 PM.
    1800F Silver Tribal - Thornton CO

    If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough. - Mario Andretti

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    Senior Member Shiner's Avatar
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    If a picture is worth a thousand words, here is a few pictures!

    As I mention in an above post I had trouble finding the PVC reducers the the XR folk advised to use. I instead found a suitable PVC coupler at Home Depot that alowed me to cut away the bulk of the coupler leaving me with what you see below. Took some sanding and milling to get it to the final shape. In addition I used some scrap metal screening I had around and a small part of a PVC pipe to secure the metal screen to so it would not want to fall out at the first big bump. I drilled out the holes in the metal screen a bit larger and added a little bow to the screen shape with a small hammer.

    Port Parts Used


    Unpainted Ports


    Just an Idea: Another though would be to pick up some small car door tweeters and gut them for the shell and housing. You could bond the hollow tweeter shell over the hole you drill in your fairing, giving you a professional look without having to build the entire port. You can pick them up at the local auto part store fairly cheep. For example here are some I found out on the web. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewc...D=106325222513

    Shiner
    Last edited by Shiner; 08-05-2009 at 07:01 PM.
    1800F Silver Tribal - Thornton CO

    If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough. - Mario Andretti

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    Senior Member JOSHWALEE's Avatar
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    Default 1300 Body Shop; XR Fairing mounting; Fainring Speakers

    First off, let me apologize for the long thread. I feel like MR VTX.

    Well, I posted a thread a little while back about my frustrations with mounting an Xtreme Revolution fairing on my 1300C. I ran into a few issues while installing the fairing:

    1. The supplied hardware was cobbled together and appeared rigged in my opinion.

    2. The 1300C Memphis Shades trigger lock brackets DO NOT work with this fairing. They are not deep enough and the lower fork mounts will hit the fairing and keep it from seating properly.

    3. I chose to use Polk audio DB521's. Due to the mounting depth of a decent speaker you are required to use spacers on the lower speaker holes. This causes the speaker grills to hit the tank at full turn when installed in the "normal" position. The ONLY solution is to mount the fairing further out and use a headlight extension.


    I originally installed the fairing with a 2" headlight extension, MS trigger lock brackets, and 1.25" aluminum spacers between the fairing and the mounting plates. While this did get the job done, I was not happy with a couple things... I did not want to use spacers between the plates, and I did not want quick release (memphis doesn't make standard brackets any more). To top it off, the trigger lock fork clamps have a weak point due to their adjustable design. My left upper fork mount actually snapped where the bracket is recessed for the adjustable mounting nut (luckily I had a spare to replace it with).

    I spoke with Jimmie from Xtreme Revolution to get some ideas of what options I had to work with. To my surprise, he was unaware of any issue with the 1300C trigger lock hardware not being compatible. It seems (according to Jimmie after measuring them for me) that the 1800C mounting plates actually have an extra 1/2" of depth, which may make them an option for those looking to use a trigger lock system. I would still advise against it due to my experience with the fork clamps.

    So after contacting Jimmie and finding myself at a loss for a solution, and finding out here that pretty much everyone is using the supplied hardware, I decided that I was going to have to be creative. I wanted a rigid mount fork clamp design, but no one offered anything. What follows is my solution to this problem...


    First thing I had to address was the fork clamps. I happened to have an old Speed Demon shield from when I purchased the bike, and it came with "quick change" hardware (tools required, and not adjustable). I knew I was going to be able to utilize these clamps for my design. I would include a part number, but it appears MS doesn't list them for ANY shield for the 1300 any more .

    Second, I had to address the mounting plates. I could not use the 1300 mounting plates the way I wanted without spacers, and I didn't want to spend the money and take a chance on the 1800 plates (not to mention that both a trigger lock designs anyways). My solution... I ordered a 12"x18" sheet of 6061-T6 aluminum from www.speedymetals.com . I used the 1300 brackets as a template for my starting point, and made alterations to the design. The first alteration was to elongate the plate so that the spacers could be eliminated, and the speakers would clear the tank. The second alteration was to lengthen the mounting points for the fork clamps so that the load of the fairing could be spread across more area. The lower clamp location was lowered by 1.5", and the upper clamp location was raised by .5". The pictures below show the fabricated brackets after a rough forming, and below them is the MS mounting plate:



    The next picture is with the fork clamps mounted to the plates:



    The plates appeared to turn out well, and I went ahead and hit them with a scotch-brite die grinder pad to clean up the raw material. I took them home and crossed my fingers that I had measured and designed everything properly. Some new stainless fasteners, fender washers, and loctite and they mount up beautifully:



    I wasn't out of the woods yet... I still had to make sure that the rigid mounting system actually lined up properly on the bike. The fork clamps were installed loosely and attached to the new mounting plates. Vertical placement was adjusted, and all hardware was tightened... PERFECT!!
    I had proper placement around the headlamp housing, 1/8" clearance between the lower speaker grills and the tank at full turn, and four easily accessed bolts will remove the fairing for any front end work I may need in the future.

    I apologize for the bad photos taken in my garage, at night, on my phone, with a beer in hand :






    Notice the elongated placement of the fork clamps on the fork tubes... This thing is ROCK SOLID!! Now that everything is exactly how I wanted it it's time to take it all off so I can polish the mounting plates.

    I am extremely happy that I was able to fabricate a mounting system to my likings. However, I am also very disappointed that a fairing that is "designed" for the VTX, and advertises it's compatibility with MS hardware, would be such a PITA!! I really hope that Jimmie alters some issues with his design. I believe the XR is the best looking fairing for the VTX, but it's inherent design flaws prevent it from achieving greatness!!

    Thanks for letting me waste a little of your time, and ride safe!!
    Last edited by Chicago-Spike; 02-04-2011 at 01:15 PM.

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    Senior Member rodger's Avatar
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    Awesome write up! Glad you were able to come up with a solution. You could always take better pictures, and since you plan on polishing the mounts, now you can. Not nearly as many "big" pictures to be able to make a clear comparison to Mr. VTX, but your heart was in the right place

    Reminds me of my bud who has made numerous parts of his own for his X with his design and metal skills, great for you guys, but sucks for guys like me and our wallets Oh well, look forward to the polished pics thread with more "Mr. VTX" appeal
    -RODGER 2006 BLUE VTX 1300R

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    Senior Member badvtx1300's Avatar
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    Good write up and information Josh!

    Question on the speakers, as I am thinking about going to those as well.

    What did you use for spacers on the speakers? Thanks.

    I am also thinking of going with your same receiver as mine took a crap (posted on a previous thread of yours).

    2006 1300C-N: Custom Neo Bagger...
    2002 CBR954RR : as fast as you wanna go...
    2007 VTX 1800F Spec 3: aka Black Betty...2000 CBR 929: Track Bike

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    Senior Member MR VTX's Avatar
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    Those mounts turned out really good...the pictures...well...!

    Seriously, I hope Jimmie takes note of this and decides to hook up with you somehow to get these included with the fairings.

    To answer badvtx1300's questions, I got a set of spacers from XR when I called back to tell them that the lower Polk speakers wouldn't fit. They sent them out no charge, but they should be included in all fairings going out, IMO. And for a headunit, I'll just make a strong suggestion to get one without a removable faceplate...don't ask me how I know!

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    Senior Member Wood42's Avatar
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    Very cool idea...

    Would you all go with the XR fairing if you did it over again?
    Live as if........

    R.I.P. 2004 VTX1300C
    R.I.P. 2004 VTX1300C Pro Street

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    Senior Member badvtx1300's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MR VTX View Post
    Those mounts turned out really good...the pictures...well...!

    Seriously, I hope Jimmie takes note of this and decides to hook up with you somehow to get these included with the fairings.

    To answer badvtx1300's questions, I got a set of spacers from XR when I called back to tell them that the lower Polk speakers wouldn't fit. They sent them out no charge, but they should be included in all fairings going out, IMO. And for a headunit, I'll just make a strong suggestion to get one without a removable faceplate...don't ask me how I know!

    Thanks Mr. VTX! Got a hold of Jimmie and he is to send me the spacers. Hopefully they will be sent soon. Thanks again.

    2006 1300C-N: Custom Neo Bagger...
    2002 CBR954RR : as fast as you wanna go...
    2007 VTX 1800F Spec 3: aka Black Betty...2000 CBR 929: Track Bike

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    Senior Member MR VTX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wood42 View Post
    Very cool idea...

    Would you all go with the XR fairing if you did it over again?
    Most definitely.

    Quote Originally Posted by badvtx1300 View Post
    Thanks Mr. VTX! Got a hold of Jimmie and he is to send me the spacers. Hopefully they will be sent soon. Thanks again.
    Cool...glad to hear they're still providing good customer service.

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    Senior Member RIXer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOSHWALEE View Post
    First off, let me apologize for the long thread. I feel like MR VTX.

    Well, I posted a thread a little while back about my frustrations with mounting an Xtreme Revolution fairing on my 1300C. I ran into a few issues while installing the fairing:

    1. The supplied hardware was cobbled together and appeared rigged in my opinion.

    2. The 1300C Memphis Shades trigger lock brackets DO NOT work with this fairing. They are not deep enough and the lower fork mounts will hit the fairing and keep it from seating properly.

    3. I chose to use Polk audio DB521's. Due to the mounting depth of a decent speaker you are required to use spacers on the lower speaker holes. This causes the speaker grills to hit the tank at full turn when installed in the "normal" position. The ONLY solution is to mount the fairing further out and use a headlight extension.


    I originally installed the fairing with a 2" headlight extension, MS trigger lock brackets, and 1.25" aluminum spacers between the fairing and the mounting plates. While this did get the job done, I was not happy with a couple things... I did not want to use spacers between the plates, and I did not want quick release (memphis doesn't make standard brackets any more). To top it off, the trigger lock fork clamps have a weak point due to their adjustable design. My left upper fork mount actually snapped where the bracket is recessed for the adjustable mounting nut (luckily I had a spare to replace it with).

    I spoke with Jimmie from Xtreme Revolution to get some ideas of what options I had to work with. To my surprise, he was unaware of any issue with the 1300C trigger lock hardware not being compatible. It seems (according to Jimmie after measuring them for me) that the 1800C mounting plates actually have an extra 1/2" of depth, which may make them an option for those looking to use a trigger lock system. I would still advise against it due to my experience with the fork clamps.

    So after contacting Jimmie and finding myself at a loss for a solution, and finding out here that pretty much everyone is using the supplied hardware, I decided that I was going to have to be creative. I wanted a rigid mount fork clamp design, but no one offered anything. What follows is my solution to this problem...


    First thing I had to address was the fork clamps. I happened to have an old Speed Demon shield from when I purchased the bike, and it came with "quick change" hardware (tools required, and not adjustable). I knew I was going to be able to utilize these clamps for my design. I would include a part number, but it appears MS doesn't list them for ANY shield for the 1300 any more .

    Second, I had to address the mounting plates. I could not use the 1300 mounting plates the way I wanted without spacers, and I didn't want to spend the money and take a chance on the 1800 plates (not to mention that both a trigger lock designs anyways). My solution... I ordered a 12"x18" sheet of 6061-T6 aluminum from www.speedymetals.com . I used the 1300 brackets as a template for my starting point, and made alterations to the design. The first alteration was to elongate the plate so that the spacers could be eliminated, and the speakers would clear the tank. The second alteration was to lengthen the mounting points for the fork clamps so that the load of the fairing could be spread across more area. The lower clamp location was lowered by 1.5", and the upper clamp location was raised by .5". The pictures below show the fabricated brackets after a rough forming, and below them is the MS mounting plate:



    The next picture is with the fork clamps mounted to the plates:



    The plates appeared to turn out well, and I went ahead and hit them with a scotch-brite die grinder pad to clean up the raw material. I took them home and crossed my fingers that I had measured and designed everything properly. Some new stainless fasteners, fender washers, and loctite and they mount up beautifully:



    I wasn't out of the woods yet... I still had to make sure that the rigid mounting system actually lined up properly on the bike. The fork clamps were installed loosely and attached to the new mounting plates. Vertical placement was adjusted, and all hardware was tightened... PERFECT!!
    I had proper placement around the headlamp housing, 1/8" clearance between the lower speaker grills and the tank at full turn, and four easily accessed bolts will remove the fairing for any front end work I may need in the future.

    I apologize for the bad photos taken in my garage, at night, on my phone, with a beer in hand :






    Notice the elongated placement of the fork clamps on the fork tubes... This thing is ROCK SOLID!! Now that everything is exactly how I wanted it it's time to take it all off so I can polish the mounting plates.

    I am extremely happy that I was able to fabricate a mounting system to my likings. However, I am also very disappointed that a fairing that is "designed" for the VTX, and advertises it's compatibility with MS hardware, would be such a PITA!! I really hope that Jimmie alters some issues with his design. I believe the XR is the best looking fairing for the VTX, but it's inherent design flaws prevent it from achieving greatness!!

    Thanks for letting me waste a little of your time, and ride safe!!
    Wow I had no problem mounting mine with the supplied zinc brackets. Cheap looking for sure but it mounted perfectly with a little tweeking. I did have to put a little piece of spacer on the left side steering lock. About 1/8 inch to stop the speaker from hitting the tank. But thats it. Powered coated the brackets and used stainless steel hex head bolt. It real does look great.


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