I have already done some modification to the tank and its housing including bonding the two together with Gorilla Glue which has held together perfect during last summer.
Now I want to finish the project by filling in gaps, smoothing it over, and painting.
Any suggestions what (glue) would bond and fill without leaving air bubbles?
Thanks for any useful replies.
Since its a work in progress I wont post a photo but here is a description:
gone is the chrome cover and the "stay" (metal bracket that holds the tank in the "case").
The case is trimmed so only the very bottom and back remain.
The opening where the siphon hose attaches to the tank is enlarged for easy access to attach/detach the hose.
The tank is glued to the case. The tank and case are painted metallic silver. The paint is scraped away to view the coolant level.
They do a good job of marketing this two part, UV cured, liquid plastic. Whether it's any good or not I don't know. I'm trying to get our Manufacturing guys to buy some and test it. http://notaglue.com/
You could also try plastic welding. I've welded things since my early teens but never plastic. Last summer I had to repair a plastic radiator tank. Youtube has several good videos. A range of hand held soldering irons can be used but you can also buy irons specific to the job. I used a soldering iron and a similar material for filler. Standard welding prep is required. The repair has held up thus far.
Yea - Welding Commercial swimming pool manifolds for the filter systems -
Did those with specific $1000 gun kit.
I used to poke around with the soldering deal - it's so so .
With Poly - kinda have to do the fingernail hardness test -
If you can leave impression in the plastic - but not the glue being used - glue is probably too hard.
And will more than likely fail.
They do a good job of marketing this two part, UV cured, liquid plastic. Whether it's any good or not I don't know. I'm trying to get our Manufacturing guys to buy some and test it. http://notaglue.com/
While Bondic sounds like a great product I don't think I'm interested in pursuing it for my needs especially based on this statement from their site:
"Bondic works best in layers (the maximum thickness of one layer is 1 - 1.5 mm)" http://notaglue.com/show-me-how/
Any other suggestions, especially of products I can readily buy off the shelf?
don't know the name of it right off hand but most auto parts stores sell a type of epoxy made for repairing plastic radiators and gas tanks stuff works great might want to check it out
don't know the name of it right off hand but most auto parts stores sell a type of epoxy made for repairing plastic radiators and gas tanks stuff works great might want to check it out
An epoxy that really bonds to plastic is something to know about. I'm going to have to check into that. I've always sworn by JB Weld. It's an old glue that's been around for a long time and I've used it for a lotta things. One time I used it on an interior plastic piece and it did not adhere AT ALL. Peeled off like a cheap sticker.
While off loading my 1800 Wing from the toy hauler I bashed the coolant recovery tank. I removed it, roughed up the cracked area with sandpaper, cleaned the area with alcohol, and covered the damaged area with JB weld. That was three years ago and it hasn't started leaking.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/13-Inch-Stainless-Steel-Expansion-Tank,2954.html
Trash that cheep plastic and go Stainless, I'm at work but up a long side the radiator on my bike, is a car 13" overflow reserve tank from Speedway Motors for only $29. It worked for the last 3 years and looks great! I needed the space that the POS was taking up for a connecting a sandwich adapter to run a oil gauge for the fairing. If interested I'll try to post some pic's.
I'm at work but up a long side the radiator on my bike,
is a car 13" overflow reserve tank from Speedway Motors for only $29.
It worked for the last 3 years and looks great! I needed the space that the POS was taking up for a connecting a sandwich adapter to run a oil gauge for the fairing. If interested I'll try to post some pic's.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/13-Inch-Stainless-Steel-Expansion-Tank,2954.html
Trash that cheep plastic and go Stainless, I'm at work but up a long side the radiator on my bike, is a car 13" overflow reserve tank from Speedway Motors for only $29. It worked for the last 3 years and looks great! I needed the space that the POS was taking up for a connecting a sandwich adapter to run a oil gauge for the fairing. If interested I'll try to post some pic's.
THANK YOU! This looks great.
If you could post some photos I'd really appreciate it.
How did you mount it - did you need to make a adapter/bracket?
Is there anything else to know about it?
Seems too to be true but I am very interested.
Thanks for whatever else you can share.
There are hundreds of Billet clamps
available for mounting two round objects sized for the frame & object option.
The container has the options - but in most cases not the right size.
I used JB Welt on an old 1992 Nissan P/U overflow spout from the radiator to the expansion tank and it never leaked or broke away. I used it for at least 2 years near every day. I've seen JB Weld in all the auto parts houses I've ever been in.
NOTE: JB Weld is black in color so if the spot your repairing on the expansion tank is visible it will show black.
If concerned if model matters or where tank was - no, it makes no difference.
What makes it work - is 100% related to radiator caps condition, clean seals for full vacuum action.
If concerned if model matters or where tank was - no, it makes no difference.
What makes it work - is 100% related to radiator caps condition, clean seals for full vacuum action.
I have a 2002 Retro the tank was under the battery, unless you have a weaker water pump it would still work. The stainless makes a nice addition (Stainless is for ever).
:b2b::b2b:
I fully expect this mod will work fine but I am reminded of trying quick-disconnect fittings in my fuel line which ruined my Spring and part of Summer two years ago. Most people were convinced the fittings would work fine but I had a terrible problem with the engine dying and not starting, I finally removed the fittings and everything was back to normal.
question one = Since you mention it, are some water pumps weaker?
question two = Even if there is a difference in water pumps, that would not affect this coolant tank function would it?
Doesn't the overflow function by temperate change and expansion (pressure) / contraction (suction)?
I'm close to buying it, still seems like a great mod to me, unless I get an unexpected answer to my question above.
Thanks everyone for your replies so far.
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