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Solenoid swap complete

7K views 19 replies 10 participants last post by  Philscbx 
#1 ·
The installation was pretty straightforward. The mounting location and the Ford solenoid's bolt pattern matched perfectly so, it was simply a matter of bolting it up. The bike's wiring modifications were very minor. I gently removed the bend in the bike's solenoid lugs to make them straight, rather than the 90* they had been. Opened the holes with a rat tail to fit onto the 5/16" 18 solenoid large terminals. Installed #10 closed loop terminals in place of the bullets on the signal wires. Redirecting the battery cable lugs upward made the + cable a little longer than it needed to be, thus the small loop. It was necessary to remove the convoluted tubing which had been over the battery-to-solenoid cable and also contained the primary power wires. I wrapped those to protect them. With the solenoid mounted upside down as shown, there is no interference or danger of any live conductor shorting to ground although I'm pondering covering the #10 exposed lugs with some RTV just to be sure. Clearance is ample and not a problem with the side cover installed. Plenty of room.
I ran the bike and cycled the starter several times. Of course the operation is exactly the same as the OEM except that I know this solenoid is several times heavier duty than the one it came with. Chances of it welding together is pretty close to zero.
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#3 ·
Good job!
When you have the RTV in hand, put some in at the wire entrance side of the
closed loop terminals. Many wire terminals have one crimp on the insulation,
the other crimp on the wire, reducing/preventing vibration of the wire which
could lead to breakage.
 
#4 ·
Good job!
When you have the RTV in hand, put some in at the wire entrance side of the
closed loop terminals. Many wire terminals have one crimp on the insulation,
the other crimp on the wire, reducing/preventing vibration of the wire which
could lead to breakage.
What I normally do to help that is to strip the wire and fold it back over the insulation flat and untwisted, then crimp it normally insulation and all. The bare wire is positively exposed to the terminal but the insulation never really ends and there will be no sharp bends.
 
#6 ·
Good write-up.

IF/When my original goes... I have not decided what way I will go...OEM or Ford...
(I have a new Ford solenoid on the shelf) if you work on Fords, you need a few on the shelf...

but I will install a secondary push button to operate the solenoid.. but I do clean the starter switch every 2 years... just incase..in there all ready.

<< ADDED >> the Ford solenoid "could" take 2 to 3 times the amount of current a Honda solenoid will. Just saying.
 
#7 ·
I remember being 17 years old and disassembling a 63 Ford's starter. I took the stamped cover off and seeing the swinging core and it's huge contacts. At first I said "What the!?" Studied it a few moments and said "Crude looking but seems to work well." Later I owned a Chevy and took it apart. Examined it and thought "Combo Unit!"
 
#8 ·
both had there issues....

Ford.. first was the Bendex (sp) spring gear .. second was the solenoid, third brushes, forth bushings.
Chevy.. first was the solenoid.. second was the pivot for the gear, third was brushes, forth bushings.


my opinion. and I have fixed/rebuilt hundreds.. back in the day...or is it century.
 
#9 ·
both had there issues....

Ford.. first was the Bendex (sp) spring gear .. second was the solenoid, third brushes, forth bushings.
Chevy.. first was the solenoid.. second was the pivot for the gear, third was brushes, forth bushings.


my opinion. and I have fixed/rebuilt hundreds.. back in the day...or is it century.
Same here. For less than ten bucks and a hour's work you could completely rebuild either one. Nowdays a starter is a major expense. Do they even sell new starter bushings any more?
 
#12 ·
That Style relay is what we use on all snowplow pump drive motors.

Ford - like we discussed before -
just make sure mounting bracket is not ground for the relay before leaving the counter.
Our Scoot does not a ground type starter relay.

On the Battery cable -
looks like it's long enough to go under relay and up to the relay terminal stud.

Looks Good to Go for the next 10 yrs.
 
#14 ·
I did a mod like this using a 200 amp one I found on eBay. I would like to know the part # for this ford relay so when my other VTX goes I can follow your lead. Thanks.
IMLU I bought mine at a local chain. They'll be available anywhere since they were so widely used and very common. The particular one I got is made by a company called BWD and it's number S63P. It cost around $12, I really can't remember. Depending on the brand you get, the internal modification may change a little but it'll all be basically the same.
 
#15 ·
IMLU I bought mine at a local chain. They'll be available anywhere since they were so widely used and very common. The particular one I got is made by a company called BWD and it's number S63P. It cost around $12, I really can't remember. Depending on the brand you get, the internal modification may change a little but it'll all be basically the same.
BWD is the House name for Advanced Auto Parts.. any maybe others...

as for the Ford (type) solenoid.. 2 styles... 2 battery studs & 2 posts.... and the other 2 battery studs & 1 post... the second post is for accessories... on a Ford car...

but should be any Ford solenoid that mounts on a fender.... so late 1950's to somewhere in the 1980's...

my opinion.. if the parts guy can not figure it out... go to a different store...

and remember.. do not allow the solenoid mounting bracket make contact with the bike ground.... unless you follow the above modification.
 
#16 ·
BWD is the House name for Advanced Auto Parts.. any maybe others...

as for the Ford (type) solenoid.. 2 styles... 2 battery studs & 2 posts.... and the other 2 battery studs & 1 post... the second post is for accessories... on a Ford car...

but should be any Ford solenoid that mounts on a fender.... so late 1950's to somewhere in the 1980's...

my opinion.. if the parts guy can not figure it out... go to a different store...

and remember.. do not allow the solenoid mounting bracket make contact with the bike ground.... unless you follow the above modification.
Or, just buy a 12v magnetic switch where the two small posts are opposite ends of the coil and are isolated from the can/bracket.
 
#17 ·
BWD is the House name for Advanced Auto Parts.. any maybe others...

as for the Ford (type) solenoid.. 2 styles... 2 battery studs & 2 posts.... and the other 2 battery studs & 1 post... the second post is for accessories... on a Ford car...

but should be any Ford solenoid that mounts on a fender.... so late 1950's to somewhere in the 1980's...

my opinion.. if the parts guy can not figure it out... go to a different store...

and remember.. do not allow the solenoid mounting bracket make contact with the bike ground.... unless you follow the above modification.
We have a Pep Boys just down the road. It's been there a long time. I was in the neighborhood, so I stopped in there. Every time I've ever been there I can't help but be reminded how unprofessional their counter help is. I wanted to look and compare. He never said so other than body language, but he wanted me to tell him what I wanted, pay and leave. Since it was an experiment, I wanted to see the exact version since I knew there was more than one made. Since it was going to be a potentially destructive operation, I didn't want top shelf. I needed two small terminals, not all of them have it..ect..
More and more I'm seeing the days of the professional parts counter help are gone. Now it seems it's "Year? Model?...OK here it is. Bye."
 
#18 ·
We have a Pep Boys just down the road. It's been there a long time. I was in the neighborhood, so I stopped in there. Every time I've ever been there I can't help but be reminded how unprofessional their counter help is. I wanted to look and compare. He never said so other than body language, but he wanted me to tell him what I wanted, pay and leave. Since it was an experiment, I wanted to see the exact version since I knew there was more than one made. Since it was going to be a potentially destructive operation, I didn't want top shelf. I needed two small terminals, not all of them have it..ect..
More and more I'm seeing the days of the professional parts counter help are gone. Now it seems it's "Year? Model?...OK here it is. Bye."
And, it's even worse in cosmopolitan areas like where I live. VERY few people repair their own cars (or motorcycles), the kids learned nothing from their fathers or ever took a shop class. Their idea of "working" on their cars is limited to installing a fart can and applying 'tint' to the windows. So, the chain places like Auto-Zone, Pep-Boys etc., have kids that know how to operate a computer (to find part number) and walk back to the bin and retrieve said part. Don't know a piston from a popsicle. Could'nt fix a sandwich. I seek out the "jobbers" that supply repair facilities. The guys there actually have some knowledge of the industry. And, know what 'cross reference' means.
 
#19 ·
Yes, I know I am "OLD SCHOOL".. a retired auto mechanic.(43 years)..

and an Auto Parts person.. Knew his stuff and where it is and went....

those days are all but GONE.. and so am I...


just like auto parts stores .. dirty/greasy/dimly light /&/ parts guys had dirty hands with band-aids....
 
#20 ·
This is where NAPA is king-

They have all the vendor catalogs with all listings of sensors to relays as priority

then what they fit to.

Same way I got a new rad sensor
Thread MM size to Temp operation.

If I don't like 220F stock operation & want 190 instead, done deal.

I didn't care it wasn't in stock,
it'll be there next day, or pre-pay to ship to your door.
 
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