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16000 mile service extremely expensive

2K views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  chuck_VTX F 
#1 ·
What happens if you dont adjust the valves?....bike has 16k and runs great...
 
#3 ·
Take a weekend and do it yourself. More than likely you won't have to actually adjust anything, but it still needs to be inspected just to be sure. These make themselves tighter from wear, not looser, from what I've read about this specific motor.

Just follow bare's instructions and take your time. You're only really paying for labor to have a shop do this job, and paying someone else for their time to do a job such as this just chaffs me the wrong way, as other than dropping a tool into the engine, this is a very straightforward and risk-free job : you don't lose much other than time if you mess up and have to do it again.
 
#4 ·
Ever read about a 1800 with burned valves???
I have not.
Recently someone asked about valve adj, they were at 35k miles I believe.

From a thread 18may2017
2wheelsforme
Did it once at 30K they were not out of specs. Now have 50 and no plans of doing it again soon.
I have never heard of anyone having a problem from not checking valves.
Same with my Yamaha, 119K and one check at 40 and no adjustment needed.

Valkrider
Wife rides an 06 18R. This is her third VTX 18 as she miles em up pretty good. 91K on this one and no valve adjust yet.
 
#5 ·
manual states every 8,000 miles.. most miss the first. BAD IDEA.... but after that

every 16,000 Is OK, my opinion..

its a production line issue.. it TAKES Time to adjust valves... no time on production line..

I did mine at 8,000... check every 16,000 .. on mine .. I have not needed to re-adjust any .. just passed 80,000 miles.. but then I am a retired pro.. mechanic.
 
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#7 · (Edited)
they ARE adjusted at the factory... a simple GO/No Go.... not a real feeler gauge

the engine is rotated to a factory spot.. so ALL valves can be set at one time... without rotating engine at all... aka "Base Circle" technique.

think of a 3 thickness feeler gauge... a single blade... like a step.
aka like 2-6-10 so 2 is to tight,,,, 10 is to loose.

just like Carburetors.. are not adjust at the factory.. at carburetor factory .. the carb is set at a air flow chamber.. and is set to a flow meter setting.. aka no fuel..
 
#9 ·
I check/adjust mine every other year. Spring maintenance. Along with coolant and hydraulic fluid change. In 15 years (seven checks) I've found very little variance, out by maybe a thousandth or two on one or two valves. It is a bit of a PIA but you get used to it. My little pea brain has to know that everything is right. Take whats in the way out of the way. No rush job! Have done a GFs 1300, that is really a PITBs. Funky round cap for the exhaust. Still a whole lot better than playing the shim game on the I4s. That I get paid for! LOL. Jimbo
 
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#10 ·
I'm at the 16K mark now and haven't a clue as to what the PO has/had done. Are there any noticeable symptoms that might indicate that the valves need adjusting? Might this affect mileage or cause some ticking? TIA
 
#11 · (Edited)
I'm the I dunno how many owner of mine, did the 8k check a bit late (9200), found rear cylinder right intake valve too tight. Loosened it to spec and now have a more pronounced tick than I had before but I don't think it sounds wrong. Will probably recheck soon just to be sure, but this bike is supposed to make noise.

Also, not entirely sure the newer tick is actually valve noise, I'm more convinced it's a poor rtv job... I'm pretty bad with that stuff...
 
#12 ·
These bikes tick. My 1800 would sound like a sewing machine if it weren't for the spectacularly loud pipes being so awesome.
I had mine checked when I bought the bike with 10k miles. Three valves needed adjustment. I had them checked again last spring around 17k miles I think. No adjustment needed. I don't plan on messing with them again for a few years.

Just food for thought....
You'll get away with not inspecting the valves right up to the point when you don't get away with it any more. You can't tell how they are doing by listening. A $300-500 shop cost (or several hours one weekend doing it yourself) is FAR CHEAPER than replacing part of, or all of, your VTX.
 
#13 ·
the noise is "NOT" the issue... its the LACK of valve noise..

if its loose (some) it's just noise... no power loss.. and almost zero fuel mileage change.

the "BIG" issue is if the valve clearance is zero or worse ' Holding a valve OPEN... all the time...
even a very small amount... this issue can an does "BURN" valves.

the valve MUST 'Seat'.. to exchange heat from valve to valve seat... to cool it...
and not always is there a mis-fire...
 
#15 ·
my advice.. take your time... remove what is needed so you have room for your hands..

last fall .. I instructed 2 guys how to do valve adjustments...
I did it.. then had 'them' do it... both. then I checked there work..
both are old guys... like me. aka retired. and past 65 :) well Fran an I.. Rick I do not know his age.

yes it takes time.. but NOT hard work..

read the directions.
remove fuel tank
read the directions.
remove coil pack.
remove valve cover ports
read the directions.

take you time.

I think it took 4 hours... me and 2 others following what I did...
 
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