Electronic cruise control 250-1223

[danater]

Mounting of the 250-1223 Fully Electronic Cruise Control by Rostra


Things you will need for this install


250-1223 module
250-3593 dash switch
250-4369 splitter
4 foot of 14 gauge stranded wire. I chose green (cause im cheap and didnt wanna buy brown) to continue the brown from the power connection
rosin core solder
various electrical connectors
5 foot of 3/8” corrugated tubing
15” zip ties, 3” zip ties
shrink wrap for all electrical connections, black tape for the others
2 u bolts with 4 lock nuts (these fit over the swing arm so buy accordingly
Throttle cable mount

1. remove the battery, the battery box, pull your headlamp, remove the gas tank.
   ( picture 1 &nbsp
2. Put the 2 u bolts with threads going down on the cross member in front of the rear tire. Snug up the cross plates that come with the U bolts. Leave about a 1/4” from the bottom of the cross member. ( picture 2 &nbsp
3. The kit comes with 2 options to mount the servo, an L shaped bracket and a black bracket. Get the L shaped bracket and mount the straight side toward the side of the module with the wires coming out.
   ( picture 3 &nbsp
4. Make sure to set your dip switches now, as getting the module off is a rather annoying prospect just to change 1 switch. So here is the list
   1. on
   2. off
   3. off
   4. on
   5. on
   6. on
   7. on
   8. off
   9. off
   10. on
   11. off
   12. off
5. With a u bolt on each side of the swing arm and the ¼ “ provided. There is enough slack to allow for the servo to be slipped into place. Start with the left side first, slide the bracket in far enough to allow for the other end of the L bracket to be slid into place. Once in place, tighten down the U bolts and make sure the lock nuts are in place and tight. I suggest putting blue lock-tight on any nuts.
6. Ok to keep things straight here, pull the wires from the servo straight out and worry about them later.
7. Route the throttle cable up and along the backbone of the bike. ( picture 4 &nbsp I chose to mount the cable just under the backbone about 3 inches in front of the rear coil. Make sure the cable is directly across from the throttle cables. I mounted my throttle cable with the 2 nuts provided and the throttle cable mount. Make threads 1” with 1 nut, put the mount on, and tighten the second nut down to snug. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN bad things can happen! ( picture 5 &nbsp
8. The kit comes with 5 or more different connections. Get the wire loop and put it on with the throttle spring holding it in position. ( Picture 6 &nbsp On page 10 of the manual it shows how to connect the bead chain connectors and the lengths needed to make the control work properly. Make sure to follow the directions given, as it makes a large difference in how well the cruise control works.
9. Now for the fun part. Wiring the beast to your beast.
10. There are only 6 wires taken to the headlight. The 4 pin connector, the black and the grey wire. The 4 pin connector has a power connection that is connected to a 4 amp fuse. Cut the 4 amp fuse holder off, strip, solder and shrink wrap the extra wire to the one that you just cut off. There are 2 plug connectors, cut the one off that does not have the red, black, yellow and green. Cut the wires about 2” behind the plug. The grey wire will need to be soldered, wrapped and taken forward with the 4 pin connector. The wires that were cut will be connected to the bike under the seat. I do not like messy wires so I sheathed everything in 3/8 corrugated wire wrap. Use small zip ties and black tape to keep the ends closed and were you pull a wire out to connect it, use black tape to keep the wrap closed. I also chose to solder every connection. Do a section at a time and go over it twice to make sure its right before you make the change permanent. (the power connection from the 12v+ connection, 4 pin connector wires, and the black ground wire) ( picture 7 &nbsp * note my picture shows 2 green wires. the dark green wire would be the optional color you chose as the power to the 4 pin connector, the dark green is connected to the red for reference. I also couldn't salvage my grey wire so I replaced it with a brown one.
11. Wiring under the seat.
    1. Black → ground wire, connect to the ground by the brake manifold
    2. Brown → power wire, connect to the external fuse block
    3. Red → power wire, connect to the brown wire
    4. Violet → brake wire, connect to the green w/ yellow stripe by the fuse block (original)
    5. Blue → tachometer wire, connect to the rear coil, outside plug
12. Wiring in the headlight
    1. Splitter wiring
       1. Yellow → grey from the harness
       2. Black → ground
       3. Green → pink with green stripe
       4. Red → brown from the 4 pin connector
    2. Dash switch
       1. Connect the 4 pin connector
       2. White → brown from the 4 pin connector
       3. Black → ground
       4. Grey (from the dash switch) → power connector, connect to the red from the 4 pin
13. Test all your connections. If you have a helping hand its a good thing. Use the self diagnostics mode. The manual will tell you how to get into that mode( page 20). The switch I'm using is an open circuit control switch.
14. If everything checks out, go for a ride and enjoy your new Cruise control

Thanks to Fast600 for making my life ALOT easier with the dip settings and wire colors. Man u rock!

[nodakbassmaster]

Originally Posted by danater

Mounting of the 250-1223 Fully Electronic Cruise Control by Rostra


Things you will need for this install


250-1223 module
250-3593 dash switch
250-4369 splitter
4 foot of 14 gauge stranded wire. I chose green (cause im cheap and didnt wanna buy brown) to continue the brown from the power connection
rosin core solder
various electrical connectors
5 foot of 3/8” corrugated tubing
15” zip ties, 3” zip ties
shrink wrap for all electrical connections, black tape for the others
2 u bolts with 4 lock nuts (these fit over the swing arm so buy accordingly

1. remove the battery, the battery box, pull your headlamp, remove the gas tank.
   
2. Put the 2 u bolts with threads going down on the cross member in front of the rear tire. Snug up the cross plates that come with the U bolts. Leave about a 1/4” from the bottom of the cross member.
   
3. The kit comes with 2 options to mount the servo, an L shaped bracket and a black bracket. Get the L shaped bracket and mount the straight side toward the side of the module with the wires coming out.
   
4. Make sure to set your dip switches now, as getting the module off is a rather annoying prospect just to change 1 switch. So here is the list
   1. on
   2. off
   3. off
   4. on
   5. on
   6. on
   7. on
   8. off
   9. off
   10. on
   11. off
   12. off
5. With a u bolt on each side of the swing arm and the ¼ “ provided. There is enough slack to allow for the servo to be slipped into place. Start with the left side first, slide the bracket in far enough to allow for the other end of the L bracket to be slid into place. Once in place, tighten down the U bolts and make sure the lock nuts are in place and tight. I suggest putting blue lock-tight on any nuts.
6. Ok to keep things straight here, pull the wires from the servo straight out and worry about them later.
7. Route the throttle cable up and along the backbone of the bike. I chose to mount the cable just under the backbone about 3 inches in front of the rear coil. Make sure the cable is directly across from the throttle cables. I mounted my throttle cable with the 2 nuts provided and the throttle cable mount. Make threads 1” with 1 nut, put the mount on, and tighten the second nut down to snug. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN bad things can happen!
8. The kit comes with 5 or more different connections. Get the wire loop and put it on with the throttle spring holding it in position. On page 10 of the manual it shows how to connect the bead chain connectors and the lengths needed to make the control work properly. Make sure to follow the directions given, as it makes a large difference in how well the cruise control works.
9. Now for the fun part. Wiring the beast to your beast.
10. There are only 6 wires taken to the headlight. The 4 pin connector, the black and the grey wire. The 4 pin connector has a power connection that is connected to a 4 amp fuse. Cut the 4 amp fuse holder off, strip, solder and shrink wrap the extra wire to the one that you just cut off. There are 2 plug connectors, cut the one off that does not have the red, black, yellow and green. Cut the wires about 2” behind the plug. The grey wire will need to be soldered, wrapped and taken forward with the 4 pin connector. The wires that were cut will be connected to the bike under the seat. I do not like messy wires so I sheathed everything in 3/8 corrugated wire wrap. Use small zip ties and black tape to keep the ends closed and were you pull a wire out to connect it, use black tape to keep the wrap closed. I also chose to solder every connection. Do a section at a time and go over it twice to make sure its right before you make the change permanent. (the power connection from the 12v+ connection, 4 pin connector wires, and the black ground wire) * note my picture shows 2 green wires. the dark green wire would be the optional color you chose as the power to the 4 pin connector, the dark green is connected to the red for reference. I also couldn't salvage my grey wire so I replaced it with a brown one.
11. Wiring under the seat.
    1. Black → ground wire, connect to the ground by the brake manifold
    2. Brown → power wire, connect to the external fuse block
    3. Red → power wire, connect to the brown wire
    4. Violet → brake wire, connect to the green w/ yellow stripe by the fuse block (original)
    5. Blue → tachometer wire, connect to the rear coil, outside plug
12. Wiring in the headlight
    1. Splitter wiring
       1. Yellow → grey from the harness
       2. Black → ground
       3. Green → pink with green stripe
       4. Red → brown from the 4 pin connector
    2. Dash switch
       1. Connect the 4 pin connector
       2. White → brown from the 4 pin connector
       3. Black → ground
       4. Grey (from the dash switch) → power connector, connect to the red from the 4 pin
13. Test all your connections. If you have a helping hand its a good thing. Use the self diagnostics mode. The manual will tell you how to get into that mode( page 20). The switch I'm using is an open circuit control switch.
14. If everything checks out, go for a ride and enjoy your new Cruise control

Thanks to Fast600 for making my life ALOT easier with the dip settings and wire colors. Man u rock!

Awesome, thank you!

[fast 600]

Originally Posted by danater

Mounting of the 250-1223 Fully Electronic Cruise Control by Rostra

Thanks to Fast600 for making my life ALOT easier with the dip settings and wire colors. Man u rock!

Your Welcome!!

[harrypott]

I am planning to install an Audiovox CCS 100 Cruise System in my 87 and the biggest concern at this point is where to install the vacuum servo unit. The connection to the throttle is a 2nd concern. I have a fairly good idea on how to connect the wiring and I do not plan to use the magnets for sensor input. My speedometer does not have a sensor on it but am considering adding one that came on the vans with factory cruise. I'm told these have a weak output and that there is powered one available that the Subaru conversion folks use that may serve better. I've read that most just rely on the tach & coil connections for the signal so I'll probably try the install without a speed sensor first. Any insight that others who have done this can provide would be greatly appreciated.

[prodive57]

Thanks for the great write-up, will these same instructions work for the F model as well.

[Jamin Jimmy J]

Excellent write up I am preparing to do this install on my 06 1800 C and had a question. In the headlight wiring, for the splitter, you call for the green wire of the splitter to connect to a pink wire with a green stripe. Where does this pink with green stripe come from and what is its function?

Thank You
Jim

[danater]

Originally Posted by Jamin Jimmy J

Excellent write up I am preparing to do this install on my 06 1800 C and had a question. In the headlight wiring, for the splitter, you call for the green wire of the splitter to connect to a pink wire with a green stripe. Where does this pink with green stripe come from and what is its function?

Thank You
Jim

Wiring in the headlight

1. Splitter wiring
   1. Yellow → grey from the harness
   2. Black → ground
   3. Green → pink with green stripe
   4. Red → brown from the 4 pin connector

the pink with green stripe is from the main harness, iir its the speedometer connecting wire.

[Jamin Jimmy J]

Found it in the head light, Thank you. Not allot of room to splice.

[Jamin Jimmy J]

I'm sorry if I am a little thick on this, but I have one more wiring question. in your write up you stated:

"There are only 6 wires taken to the headlight. The 4 pin connector, the black and the Grey wire."


Then in the "Wiring in the headlight" you wrote:

7. Wiring in the headlight



1. Splitter wiring

1. Yellow → Grey from the harness
2. Black → ground
3. Green → pink with green stripe
4. Red → brown from the 4 pin connector

Where does this Brown wire come from?


Thanks
Jim

[danater]

1. Wiring under the seat.
   1. Black → ground wire, connect to the ground by the brake manifold
   2. Brown → power wire, connect to the external fuse block
   3. Red → power wire, connect to the brown wire
   4. Violet → brake wire, connect to the green w/ yellow stripe by the fuse block (original)
   5. Blue → tachometer wire, connect to the rear coil, outside plug

basically I ran a power wire all the way up front as I have an external fuse block. just in case something goes haywire. the power wire that I ran up front just happened to be brown to match the power wire for the main servo connection. since the connector up front (4 pin connector) has a red wire that leeches power, I connected the brown to the red and have used the brown as my power up front, and the red for normal connections

[Jamin Jimmy J]

I think I have it now. The brown (ignition power) and red (hot side brake)coming from the servo have fuse holders on them. Cut the fuse holders off and tie them together and run them back, on the same wire to the external fuse box. Run an independent power wire from the fuse block to the head light for power connections to the Red (bat) of the relay and Grey (back light) of the dash switch. Correct?

Thanks for your patients. I want to do this right the first time.


Jim

[danater]

yes, the red wire (hot side brake) is power, the same as Brown (ignition power). so connect those 2 together, then connect that wire to your external fuse block

[Jamin Jimmy J]

Danater,
Thank you. I'll try to finish up this weekend and let you know how it went. Thanks again

Jim

[danater]

not a problem man, I should probly make a schematic up to make it easier (pictures are by far worth their weight in gold after all).

[Jamin Jimmy J]

That my be helpful, but you did an excellent job on the write up and answering my questions. Thank you.

Did you have to modify your air cleaner housing to get the cable from the servo to clear to the throttle body?

Jim

[danater]

my airbox had the desmog done to it so i didnt modify further

[Jamin Jimmy J]

Lesson learned. The 250-1223 kit I bought came with a 250-3699 Cruise Module. This Cruise Module is not the one you describe in your write up. The Cruise Module in your write up is a 250-2316. The physical difference is the wiring harness is on the opposite side of the cable. The major difference is the dip switches. The 250-3699 only has 10 dip switches. The 10 switches can be set to obtain the settings you describe except for Pulse Per Mile. The max that can be set on the 250-3699 is 8000 Pulse Per Mile. In your settings you call for 128960 Pulse Per Mile. Cant get there from here. What I get is when I set the speed at 45 MPH it drops about 15 MPH and then jerks to about 50 MPH and drops and goes through the same cycle. Not an enjoyable ride. I am contemplating my next move. I'll let you know.....


Jim

[X-Brit]

Originally Posted by Jamin Jimmy J

Lesson learned. The 250-1223 kit I bought came with a 250-3699 Cruise Module. This Cruise Module is not the one you describe in your write up. The Cruise Module in your write up is a 250-2316. The physical difference is the wiring harness is on the opposite side of the cable. The major difference is the dip switches. The 250-3699 only has 10 dip switches. The 10 switches can be set to obtain the settings you describe except for Pulse Per Mile. The max that can be set on the 250-3699 is 8000 Pulse Per Mile. In your settings you call for 128960 Pulse Per Mile. Cant get there from here. What I get is when I set the speed at 45 MPH it drops about 15 MPH and then jerks to about 50 MPH and drops and goes through the same cycle. Not an enjoyable ride. I am contemplating my next move. I'll let you know.....


Jim

The 250-3699 is the Ultra cruise and the 250-2316 is the Global cruise model but they both seem to be listed under the same 250-1223 kit part number on the Rostra website; rather confusing!
Where did you buy the kit, I was going to order one from Brandon Distributing, but I want to make sure it comes with the 250-2316.
Maybe you could get a magnetic pulse kit (250-4165) and use that instead of the bike's pulse generator.

Thanks

[Danny Lewis]

Originally Posted by X-Brit

The 250-3699 is the Ultra cruise and the 250-2316 is the Global cruise model but they both seem to be listed under the same 250-1223 kit part number on the Rostra website; rather confusing!
Where did you buy the kit, I was going to order one from Brandon Distributing, but I want to make sure it comes with the 250-2316.
Maybe you could get a magnetic pulse kit (250-4165) and use that instead of the bike's pulse generator.

Thanks

I ordered the 250-1223 from Brandon's and got the 250-1223. Will be installing this weekend.

[Jamin Jimmy J]

Originally Posted by Danny Lewis

I ordered the 250-1223 from Brandon's and got the 250-1223. Will be installing this weekend.

So you did get the 250-2316 is the Global cruise model?

[Danny Lewis]

Yes, the global unit. Has the 12 dip switches and all.

[Jamin Jimmy J]

I bought the first one on Ebay for $100.00 (whats that saying about if it sounds too good to be true?) Ok, so its only money. I bought another one from M&R Electronics and it arrived today. I did get the 250-2316 Life is good again. Will do the re-install this weekend.

http://www.thecruisecontrolstore.com.../0017/250-1223

Jim

[danater]

as several questions have come to my attention I shall be adding a few photographs and a wiring diagram to this little rightup. if you all have questions or see things that need clarifications post a reply or pm me.

[Jamin Jimmy J]

It is complete. I finished my install yesterday with the correct actuator and road tested it today. It works great . Its not as smooth as my car, but it is slicker than snot on a door knob. Thanks Danater for all your assistance.


Jim

[danater]

not a problem. if you got any suggestions on makin the riteup better lemme know.

[Jamin Jimmy J]

A wiring diagram would be really helpfull. that was the hardest part for me to get straight.

[scubamike]

danater, sent you a PM.

[scubamike]

Please disregard previous PM. Cruise is on and working.
WOW. Very cool, but a little work to get there.
It's worth it tough.

[danater]

alright thanks to danny lewis who was nice enough to take the time and talk on the phone the wiring and all. and then coming up with this diagram to make things easier.

http://natter77.mine.nu:8181/picture...ruise_wire.jpg
(ive hosted this like all the other pictures on my own server so lemme know if no worky)

[kodiak536]

Simple question...
Does this actually control the speed? as in cruise control for cars using vacuum assist?
I looked it up on line but can't really get the answer as to how it works.
1.Does it maintain speed going up hill?
2.Going down hill?
Or does it somehow control speed electronically via processor or program?