Electronic cruise control 250-1223

[danater]

Mounting of the 250-1223 Fully Electronic Cruise Control by Rostra


Things you will need for this install


250-1223 module
250-3593 dash switch
250-4369 splitter
4 foot of 14 gauge stranded wire. I chose green (cause im cheap and didnt wanna buy brown) to continue the brown from the power connection
rosin core solder
various electrical connectors
5 foot of 3/8” corrugated tubing
15” zip ties, 3” zip ties
shrink wrap for all electrical connections, black tape for the others
2 u bolts with 4 lock nuts (these fit over the swing arm so buy accordingly
Throttle cable mount

1. remove the battery, the battery box, pull your headlamp, remove the gas tank.
   ( picture 1 &nbsp
2. Put the 2 u bolts with threads going down on the cross member in front of the rear tire. Snug up the cross plates that come with the U bolts. Leave about a 1/4” from the bottom of the cross member. ( picture 2 &nbsp
3. The kit comes with 2 options to mount the servo, an L shaped bracket and a black bracket. Get the L shaped bracket and mount the straight side toward the side of the module with the wires coming out.
   ( picture 3 &nbsp
4. Make sure to set your dip switches now, as getting the module off is a rather annoying prospect just to change 1 switch. So here is the list
   1. on
   2. off
   3. off
   4. on
   5. on
   6. on
   7. on
   8. off
   9. off
   10. on
   11. off
   12. off
5. With a u bolt on each side of the swing arm and the ¼ “ provided. There is enough slack to allow for the servo to be slipped into place. Start with the left side first, slide the bracket in far enough to allow for the other end of the L bracket to be slid into place. Once in place, tighten down the U bolts and make sure the lock nuts are in place and tight. I suggest putting blue lock-tight on any nuts.
6. Ok to keep things straight here, pull the wires from the servo straight out and worry about them later.
7. Route the throttle cable up and along the backbone of the bike. ( picture 4 &nbsp I chose to mount the cable just under the backbone about 3 inches in front of the rear coil. Make sure the cable is directly across from the throttle cables. I mounted my throttle cable with the 2 nuts provided and the throttle cable mount. Make threads 1” with 1 nut, put the mount on, and tighten the second nut down to snug. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN bad things can happen! ( picture 5 &nbsp
8. The kit comes with 5 or more different connections. Get the wire loop and put it on with the throttle spring holding it in position. ( Picture 6 &nbsp On page 10 of the manual it shows how to connect the bead chain connectors and the lengths needed to make the control work properly. Make sure to follow the directions given, as it makes a large difference in how well the cruise control works.
9. Now for the fun part. Wiring the beast to your beast.
10. There are only 6 wires taken to the headlight. The 4 pin connector, the black and the grey wire. The 4 pin connector has a power connection that is connected to a 4 amp fuse. Cut the 4 amp fuse holder off, strip, solder and shrink wrap the extra wire to the one that you just cut off. There are 2 plug connectors, cut the one off that does not have the red, black, yellow and green. Cut the wires about 2” behind the plug. The grey wire will need to be soldered, wrapped and taken forward with the 4 pin connector. The wires that were cut will be connected to the bike under the seat. I do not like messy wires so I sheathed everything in 3/8 corrugated wire wrap. Use small zip ties and black tape to keep the ends closed and were you pull a wire out to connect it, use black tape to keep the wrap closed. I also chose to solder every connection. Do a section at a time and go over it twice to make sure its right before you make the change permanent. (the power connection from the 12v+ connection, 4 pin connector wires, and the black ground wire) ( picture 7 &nbsp * note my picture shows 2 green wires. the dark green wire would be the optional color you chose as the power to the 4 pin connector, the dark green is connected to the red for reference. I also couldn't salvage my grey wire so I replaced it with a brown one.
11. Wiring under the seat.
    1. Black → ground wire, connect to the ground by the brake manifold
    2. Brown → power wire, connect to the external fuse block
    3. Red → power wire, connect to the brown wire
    4. Violet → brake wire, connect to the green w/ yellow stripe by the fuse block (original)
    5. Blue → tachometer wire, connect to the rear coil, outside plug
12. Wiring in the headlight
    1. Splitter wiring
       1. Yellow → grey from the harness
       2. Black → ground
       3. Green → pink with green stripe
       4. Red → brown from the 4 pin connector
    2. Dash switch
       1. Connect the 4 pin connector
       2. White → brown from the 4 pin connector
       3. Black → ground
       4. Grey (from the dash switch) → power connector, connect to the red from the 4 pin
13. Test all your connections. If you have a helping hand its a good thing. Use the self diagnostics mode. The manual will tell you how to get into that mode( page 20). The switch I'm using is an open circuit control switch.
14. If everything checks out, go for a ride and enjoy your new Cruise control

Thanks to Fast600 for making my life ALOT easier with the dip settings and wire colors. Man u rock!

[nodakbassmaster]

Originally Posted by danater

Mounting of the 250-1223 Fully Electronic Cruise Control by Rostra


Things you will need for this install


250-1223 module
250-3593 dash switch
250-4369 splitter
4 foot of 14 gauge stranded wire. I chose green (cause im cheap and didnt wanna buy brown) to continue the brown from the power connection
rosin core solder
various electrical connectors
5 foot of 3/8” corrugated tubing
15” zip ties, 3” zip ties
shrink wrap for all electrical connections, black tape for the others
2 u bolts with 4 lock nuts (these fit over the swing arm so buy accordingly

1. remove the battery, the battery box, pull your headlamp, remove the gas tank.
   
2. Put the 2 u bolts with threads going down on the cross member in front of the rear tire. Snug up the cross plates that come with the U bolts. Leave about a 1/4” from the bottom of the cross member.
   
3. The kit comes with 2 options to mount the servo, an L shaped bracket and a black bracket. Get the L shaped bracket and mount the straight side toward the side of the module with the wires coming out.
   
4. Make sure to set your dip switches now, as getting the module off is a rather annoying prospect just to change 1 switch. So here is the list
   1. on
   2. off
   3. off
   4. on
   5. on
   6. on
   7. on
   8. off
   9. off
   10. on
   11. off
   12. off
5. With a u bolt on each side of the swing arm and the ¼ “ provided. There is enough slack to allow for the servo to be slipped into place. Start with the left side first, slide the bracket in far enough to allow for the other end of the L bracket to be slid into place. Once in place, tighten down the U bolts and make sure the lock nuts are in place and tight. I suggest putting blue lock-tight on any nuts.
6. Ok to keep things straight here, pull the wires from the servo straight out and worry about them later.
7. Route the throttle cable up and along the backbone of the bike. I chose to mount the cable just under the backbone about 3 inches in front of the rear coil. Make sure the cable is directly across from the throttle cables. I mounted my throttle cable with the 2 nuts provided and the throttle cable mount. Make threads 1” with 1 nut, put the mount on, and tighten the second nut down to snug. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN bad things can happen!
8. The kit comes with 5 or more different connections. Get the wire loop and put it on with the throttle spring holding it in position. On page 10 of the manual it shows how to connect the bead chain connectors and the lengths needed to make the control work properly. Make sure to follow the directions given, as it makes a large difference in how well the cruise control works.
9. Now for the fun part. Wiring the beast to your beast.
10. There are only 6 wires taken to the headlight. The 4 pin connector, the black and the grey wire. The 4 pin connector has a power connection that is connected to a 4 amp fuse. Cut the 4 amp fuse holder off, strip, solder and shrink wrap the extra wire to the one that you just cut off. There are 2 plug connectors, cut the one off that does not have the red, black, yellow and green. Cut the wires about 2” behind the plug. The grey wire will need to be soldered, wrapped and taken forward with the 4 pin connector. The wires that were cut will be connected to the bike under the seat. I do not like messy wires so I sheathed everything in 3/8 corrugated wire wrap. Use small zip ties and black tape to keep the ends closed and were you pull a wire out to connect it, use black tape to keep the wrap closed. I also chose to solder every connection. Do a section at a time and go over it twice to make sure its right before you make the change permanent. (the power connection from the 12v+ connection, 4 pin connector wires, and the black ground wire) * note my picture shows 2 green wires. the dark green wire would be the optional color you chose as the power to the 4 pin connector, the dark green is connected to the red for reference. I also couldn't salvage my grey wire so I replaced it with a brown one.
11. Wiring under the seat.
    1. Black → ground wire, connect to the ground by the brake manifold
    2. Brown → power wire, connect to the external fuse block
    3. Red → power wire, connect to the brown wire
    4. Violet → brake wire, connect to the green w/ yellow stripe by the fuse block (original)
    5. Blue → tachometer wire, connect to the rear coil, outside plug
12. Wiring in the headlight
    1. Splitter wiring
       1. Yellow → grey from the harness
       2. Black → ground
       3. Green → pink with green stripe
       4. Red → brown from the 4 pin connector
    2. Dash switch
       1. Connect the 4 pin connector
       2. White → brown from the 4 pin connector
       3. Black → ground
       4. Grey (from the dash switch) → power connector, connect to the red from the 4 pin
13. Test all your connections. If you have a helping hand its a good thing. Use the self diagnostics mode. The manual will tell you how to get into that mode( page 20). The switch I'm using is an open circuit control switch.
14. If everything checks out, go for a ride and enjoy your new Cruise control

Thanks to Fast600 for making my life ALOT easier with the dip settings and wire colors. Man u rock!

Awesome, thank you!

[fast 600]

Originally Posted by danater

Mounting of the 250-1223 Fully Electronic Cruise Control by Rostra

Thanks to Fast600 for making my life ALOT easier with the dip settings and wire colors. Man u rock!

Your Welcome!!