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spliting the case on my 1300

24K views 198 replies 45 participants last post by  CaribCruiser 
#1 ·
Well I'm getting ready to tear down my engine and as im a diesel mechanic this is a lot smaller parts than im use to so has anyone ever split the case and if so what am I in for?:yikes::tools:
 
#54 ·
Its a vertically split case, mains would have to be pressed??? Or rollers. I dont think in 12000 miles you can build up enough crap to clog a filter, screen or pump through normal operation, no way, no how...imho
 
#57 ·
reply to all

I agree with you and your humble opinion this in my opinion has been building from the production line.
I seen those parts for sale earlier this a.m. but thanks for letting me know.

the bearings are pressed in and even if you could pull the old ones out the honda gods dont see fit to make bearing replacements available sooooo like that you must replace the whole case.
yes the metal cloged the pickup but it didnt happen from a 2 or 3 mile low speed run w/ the oil light on the large amount of debris I got from the bottom of that case had to be building for quit some time.
 
#58 ·
what a scam

so I checked these parts out again and my wife clicked the buy it tab to check out shipping cost and it appears gdl cycles is out of buisness and all inventory has been liquidated so joy of fekin joys screwed again!!! as they are trying to sell the websight it remains up like a siren on the rocks.:banghead:
Wasn't looking for cases, but
stumbled on one $200
3000 mile crank $206
Rods $73
Oil Pump $43
 
#60 ·
I see now that this problem started to be noticed 2-3 weeks ago

Was there anything odd that occurred prior besides oil light coming on a couple times.
When the oil light came on, was it during just easy cruising, or pushing it hard?
What condition was the oil then?
What oil was used?
So no signs of garbage was ever seen in drain pan on prior oil change?

I just did several searches for crank bearings, and find it very odd, not one result.
But did stumble on post on Google of your noise & oil light.
The oil light coming on, that's huge warning..
 
#61 ·
prior post

yes it had what from looking at what everyone else on this board was saying they heard in there bike so I figured it to be normal. I wasnt excelorating at all when the light came on was runing along at 65 mph or so noticed a red light came on looked down and seen it was oil so I let out of it pulled the clutch and pretty much coasted it quarter mile or so to the off ramp stoped and checked the dipstick had proper amount of oil in it so I limped it 2 or 3 miles to the house douring which time the light would fade off and flickered a couple times so I figure inretrospect that at lower rpms it wasnt cloging the pickup off completly off but was still not providing enough oil pressure. I never noticed any sparklies in the oil before and it had just been changed w/ filter about 1500 miles before this happened. when I opened the filter it was pretty much like new hardly even dirty. I still think this stuff had been building for a good long time I will try and get you a good picture of the crank bearing today.thanks a lot for asking all the right questions and helping me along with this nightmare project Phil.
 
#62 ·
dilligafbiker
when the light came on was runing along at 65 mph or so noticed a red light came on
Amazing even noticed, in traffic not feeling anything to alert to look at dash.

limped it 2 or 3 miles to the house douring which time the light would fade off and flickered a couple times so I figure inretrospect that at lower rpms it wasnt cloging the pickup off completely
I'd say that's very accurate with lower RPM.

I still think this stuff had been building for a good long time.
It must have like you say.
The initial damage must have happened early on prior to you getting it.
Extended by chance by your care. Hot vs Cold oil changes maybe releasing some debris in view.

Close up views of Rod/Crank journals will be interesting.
Thanks for update.
Makes me want to update the warning from sensor to studder the horns when every second counts.
 
#63 ·
horn mod

yea Im going to full guage insturmintation when it goes back together and have deecided to buy new case halves and oil pump and build what i have so i will know what i have. remains to be seen what else it will require but so far thats it. it would be nice if honda gave specs on crank main journal size so i would know if the crank was excessive wear problem but i dont think it is visualy speeking, unfortunatly humans cant see in thousanths of an inch.I guess i could mic the area the oil passage runs at then mic the contact surffaces and see what the diffrence is to give me some idea anyway.
 

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#64 ·
Darn, looks like the bearings went past the tin coat to the copper layer,
and crank journal looks under cut by about .0015 - .0020.

Granted, some oil pressure loss at those main crank end points.
The pile is all of the rods then.

Could of been much worse.
Some guys don't know when to quit, with rods coming out the case.

It would be interesting, what a crank regrind shop would charge vs new/used.
Maybe by luck they can spec bearings to work as well.


Nice shots, Thanks.
 

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#65 ·
what about checking with a bearing supply house such as berry bearing or motion industries? someone makes the bearings for the case halves and they appear to me just pressed in and staked, they are available somewhere, since honda gets them from somewhere, its just a matter of finding them. it looks to me that the crank is visibly scored, and at best needs to go to a machine shop and ground, then undersized bearings installed, problem is.... where do you get undersized bearings from?

BTW I'm an ASE master automotive mechanic... so i kinda know what I'm looking at.
 
#66 ·
I would consider pressing the bearings out of the cases you have and checking the outside to see if there are any stampings on them, couldn't hurt anything, as i say those bearings are available from someone somewhere, and anyway thats the point of having a bearing, so you don't need to replace the entire casting when something like this happens
 
#67 ·
r&r vs. case

I have been talking back n forth with my wife all day and kind of thinking the same thing, there is an old machine shop here in town that has been in the buisness for years and im figuring once I get the flywheel pully off I can have both cases to take at once w/the crank n see what gives. that peskey pully is the stoper right now i broke the shakels on an 8" 3 jaw with a half inch ratchet so when I go back to work tomorow (as i work in a diesel shop) im gonna use the old blue wrench to heat it up then pull.we'll keep ya informed and the wife says thanks for the complements on her photo work phil she loves the camra pic on your profile page.
 
#71 ·
I GOT IT

yes thats her favorite lense, well I finaly got that peskey flywheel pully off the crank so its down to pulling the case back apart and get the thing ready to go to the machine shop and see if they can make it useable again.Ill keep everone informed of our progress over the next few weeks and of course post pics of the pieces we expose.
 
#72 ·
yes thats her favorite lense, well I finaly got that peskey flywheel pully off the crank so its down to pulling the case back apart and get the thing ready to go to the machine shop and see if they can make it useable again.Ill keep everone informed of our progress over the next few weeks and of course post pics of the pieces we expose.
Were you able to source the bearings, or are you just checking to see if it's possible first?
 
#73 ·
havent looked ye

I have yet to finish the teardown Im not to excited about the trans but so far it just looks like a way scaled down eaton w/ a lot less parts but anyway when i get it appart its going to the engine shop so they can mic everything and figure out where to get em. so far it looks like the main journals on the shaft will end up around 2.0800 as the are 2.0805 at the skinny spot best I can tell.
 
#74 ·
ride some extra for me!

I sure hope everyone is riding a few extra miles for us as we usualy put on 6 or 8 thousand miles on a year and have been held to under 2k this season and yes its killing us. be safe and ride till you just gotta eat then on till dark.its all about how much gas you can use with the bike.
 
#75 ·
eureka

I have a machine shop working on my crank and cases he says about 350 to 400 to true the crank and custom cut a set of bearings so in a week or two Ill be ready to start the build. yeeeee haaaaaa!!!!!!
 
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