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Melted connectors

4K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  Danow 
#1 ·
I had a major short on my bike today..... left me stranded. I thought my alternator went out or my rectifier. Still haven't found the short but when I moved some wiring it went away. While I was searching for the problem I found the connector to my alternator had one of the three connections burned and melted the connector. Also found two on my key switch connector as well. Does anyone know where you can find these connectors? Haven't tried the dealer yet. I looked on line for them and found nothing. Hate to change the connectors to some other type but may have too.
 
#2 ·
What is your "short" doing???
Shorts draw high current and blow fuses if equipped.
Opens cause a loss of voltage and current flow.
Poor connection gets hot, burns open.

You can replace the terminals, they have more than 20amps on the single wire so regular
1/4" blade terminals are not suggested. Some ring terminals could be bolted together.
Use good quality terminals---most auto places have junk chinese terminals.

There have been a few cases of stator wire terminals burning..
Same thing for the rectifier connector.
Which color burned on the R/R connector??
Green wires are in parallel as are the Red/White--the high current wires..
The White/Black is a voltage sensor wire probably---low current.

Some links/people that have some or all off the wire terminals.
I have dealt with the first two businesses.
http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/
http://roadstercycle.com/index.htm
.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html
 
#3 ·
It was a short. Not sure why none of the fuses blew. The two burned connectors were going to the stator and key switch connector. My key switch maybe at fault . About a year ago while on a ride my key wouldn't go into the switch. I noticed white plastic pieces coming out of the key switch slot. After I removed the pieces the key would go in but wouldn't turn but after messing with it , it finally turned and worked. It has been working fine since till just prior to my failure. The key once again was hard to turn. After the ground disappeared I was able to hook up the battery and start the bike up after I had to charge the battery which was dead from being discharged completely. I ohmed out my stator and all of the three phases were the same.

I have checked most all the wiring and so far found nothing. With the positive lead disconnected from the battery and using an ohm meter I had a complete short to ground from the positive lead to frame. 0 ohms.
 
#4 ·
It was a short. Not sure why none of the fuses blew. The two burned connectors were going to the stator and key switch connector. My key switch maybe at fault .

I have checked most all the wiring and so far found nothing. With the positive lead disconnected from the battery and using an ohm meter I had a complete short to ground from the positive lead to frame. 0 ohms.

IGN Switch ON or OFF when the testing with the ohm meter??
 
#5 ·
I had a major short on my bike today..... left me stranded. I thought my alternator went out or my rectifier. Still haven't found the short but when I moved some wiring it went away. While I was searching for the problem I found the connector to my alternator had one of the three connections burned and melted the connector. Also found one on my rectifier connector as well. Does anyone know where you can find these connectors? Haven't tried the dealer yet. I looked on line for them and found nothing. Hate to change the connectors to some other type but may have too.
don't replace the connector.....cut the wires, solder and shrinkwrap them. It's a common problem.
 
#6 ·
It was caused by poor connection not a short.

To prevent from happening all plugs should be cleaned and dielectric grease applied.
I clean mine every year since i ride in the rain often.
 
#7 ·
IGN Switch ON or OFF when the testing with the ohm meter??

the switch was off. I am going to purchase a used key switch. Then dissect the old one.
 
#8 ·
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/showthread.php?399377-My-battery-died-while-riding!
I had a major short on my bike today..... left me stranded. I thought my alternator went out or my rectifier. Still haven't found the short but when I moved some wiring it went away. While I was searching for the problem I found the connector to my alternator had one of the three connections burned and melted the connector. Also found one on my rectifier connector as well. Does anyone know where you can find these connectors? Haven't tried the dealer yet. I looked on line for them and found nothing. Hate to change the connectors to some other type but may have too.
Same thing happened to me:shock:
 
#9 ·
Another comment due to what Donnie recommended.

Connectors are used for the easy assembly of the different components on the VTX
assembly line.
If you were to custom wire the VTX you would go direct from fuse to switch to device.
Best thing is to solder the wires.
There are also Euro terminal connectors where you solder(tin) the ends and tighten a
screw on the wire. If you need three or four poles you just cut what you need.
That would be better than the big push together connectors.
An example::
http://i.ebayimg.com/19/!BpDe-5gBmk~$(KGrHqYH-C4EuZ,kOf-uBLp)!nju6Q~~_12.JPG
 
#10 ·
It was caused by poor connection not a short.

To prevent from happening all plugs should be cleaned and dielectric grease applied.
I clean mine every year since i ride in the rain often.
Absolute - Always poor connection of blade connectors not making full pinch fit.

Burned fittings are high resistance leakage.
Basically trying to make the connection a light bulb.

Always go down into female side of plugs with skinny screw driver -
and nearly force close the female terminals to make fittings a very snug fit when plugging it together.
 
#11 ·
Another comment due to what Donnie recommended.

Connectors are used for the easy assembly of the different components on the VTX
assembly line.
If you were to custom wire the VTX you would go direct from fuse to switch to device.
Best thing is to solder the wires.
There are also Euro terminal connectors where you solder(tin) the ends and tighten a
screw on the wire. If you need three or four poles you just cut what you need.
That would be better than the big push together connectors.
An example::
http://i.ebayimg.com/19/!BpDe-5gBmk~$(KGrHqYH-C4EuZ,kOf-uBLp)!nju6Q~~_12.JPG
I may have to solder them. Hate to but it would be a better connection. Still need a key switch though.
 
#12 ·
With out a doubt my keyswitch is fine. I disassembled it and it was fine.... lacked a little dielectric grease and a little corrosion but cleaned up fine with a scotchbrite pad. There isn't anyway that it could short to the side of switch case. Plastic that was coming out of the key hole was part of the little door that covered the slot. Going to reinstall in the bike. Also going to solder the alternator leads, removing the connect completely.
 
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