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New battery Install

1K views 12 replies 7 participants last post by  N3SLO 
#1 ·
Installed a new battery today .... here's some pics.

Battery 1.jpg Battery Top.jpg Battery Bottom.jpg Battery Install 3.jpg Battery Install 5.jpg

Takes up exactly half the space so there is room for the ECU and the flasher relay to hide.
Bike starts in a third less time. Here are some measurements I took along the way:

Starting voltage:
Old battery (Sealed Lead Acid) .. 12.5 volts
New battery .. 13.3 (straight out of the box)

Voltage Sag:
Old ... 11 volts
New ... 12.9

I had no DC ammeter to measure the differences in amperage (with respect to voltage)... but the starter does spin faster... must be the additional voltage.

Charging voltage was 13.4 at idle ... 13.9 revved up like mad. This battery can use the additional voltage above 12.5 (the old battery) so I should have 13.8 volts available whenever I start the bike. A lead acid battery simply cannot do that.
I did this to improve my cold weather starts.. which on the old battery was a "cross-your-fingers" kinda thing.
We shall see.
 

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#3 ·
100 bucks
 
#5 ·
These are Lithium-Iron cells. I got mine here. Their site has everything you need.
I purchased a BMS also but decided I didn't need it. I will install a voltmeter to monitor the voltage to make sure I never go below the minimum voltage. Doing so is death to these cells usually. And since they are in series they self-level.. no need for a BMS.
 
#6 ·
Real interested to see how this works out. Any other info/links for us to take a look at to see better what is going on here? Looks very interesting. Wondering about long term. Is there a low voltage cutoff to keep from wrecking the batteries? I'd hate to be out a C note if I left the key on- which I have been known to do!
 
#7 ·
Wish I'd seen this post 2 days sooner......here's why

This all started two years ago right after I removed rect/reg off of the OEM exhaust bracket to install new Cobra bracket and Pipes.
All I did was un bolt it from bracket long enough to install new pipe bracket.
Had the key off and did not un plug rect/reg

THEN

I had an issue with dead battery june 09. It was the original so I just figured it was bad. Thought I'd save a few bucks and buy one @ $67.00 from Battery Plus Store. They checked the orginal battery and of coarse it was bad.

Well, not the case. New battery would not hold a charge. It was a rect/reg problem. Did the trouble shooting and found one shorted diode in the rectifier stage.

Installed a new OEM rect/reg and no problems for two years.

Well July 6, Battery went bad. Kinda expected that being a cheapy.

Bought a New YUASA and less than a month it went bad.

Reluctantly, Honda Dealer replaced.

Since I suspected the rect/reg again I had ordered one from the dealer.
Picked it up same time as replacement battery.

Dealer filled/ activated the battery and recommended for it to sit 24hrs before charging to let air bubbles leave the cells to lengthen life of battery.

I let it sit 18hrs.
I also bought a new "Battery Tender Plus" from the dealer.

We'll Just Have to wait and see, seems to be charging at proper voltage.
Now here is what I get.

13.5 VDC key off
12.5 key on, not running
13.4 VDC slow idle
14.3 VDC fast idle
13.85 VDC 2/3 throttle in any gear
13.7 VDC wide open to the rev limiter

Also, .078v or 8uV AC ripple current while cruising 2/3 throttle
 
#8 ·
Hmmm .. I don't get the fast idle voltage that you do.. but I do get a higher voltage at high rpm than you... I would love to see 14+vdc at fast idle since my battery can store that voltage for use later ... maybe I need a new regulator?
I get 13.6 volts at rest now with the LiFePO4 battery... better than the 12.5 my old (less than 1 year old sealed lead acid) battery can do.
Would love to have 14+vdc for starting.
Just wondering.
 
#9 ·
Seriously... can someone tell me how to test/diagnose the regulator to see if there might be something wrong with mine? I want that 14+vdc at fast idle.
 
#11 ·
Seriously... can someone tell me how to test/diagnose the regulator to see if there might be something wrong with mine? I want that 14+vdc at fast idle.
There is a different diag. process between the 1300 & 1800 ... both can be found in their respected service manual.

My 1300 has better voltage output at idle and drops to 13.? at speed... either way with a good battery it's enough to keep it charged.
 
#12 ·
These are Lithium-Iron cells. I got mine here. Their site has everything you need.
I purchased a BMS also but decided I didn't need it. I will install a voltmeter to monitor the voltage to make sure I never go below the minimum voltage. Doing so is death to these cells usually. And since they are in series they self-level.. no need for a BMS.
So do you order a complete unit or individual parts and put it together?
 
#13 ·
I bought 4 cells, 4 connectors, 3 straps and a BMS (which I did not use).
 
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