1300 final drive on 1800 - Page 12 - VTXOA
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post #111 of 115 (permalink) Old 06-01-2011, 08:25 AM
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Good to see you are stil alive and well Keiko!

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post #112 of 115 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011, 12:58 PM
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for real

Quote:
Originally Posted by RadioActive VTX View Post
If the people with an 1800cc m/c need to switch there finale drive to 1300cc final drive to get better mpg's they should have bought a 1300cc m/c. If u buy a big dog feed the big dog. my .02 and can't spare any more..
are you for real? what does it matter to you, what other guys, are doing with their motorcycle? I don,t get you, maybe you just like to be negitive NOPE NOPE NOPE UNUH! GOOFY TO SAY THE LEAST!

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post #113 of 115 (permalink) Old 07-15-2011, 08:19 AM
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And now for some more data on the difference from a standard 1800 FD equipped bike:

Just took a nice ride with Sir Rock last weekend. We both topped off at his house in Milwaukee and reset odometers. We went all the way to Milton and Rockdale (Heather's Bar and Grill is very nice btw), and then came back through the Kettle Moraine scenic roads and back to Waukesha. As we were driving in New Berlin, Jason said his fuel light had just come on. He was showing the usual 134 miles when that happens. My bike only had 120 miles on it, for the SAME exact ride. I now have 145 miles on my ODO and just now the low fuel light came on. We rode exactly the same way, I probably rode more aggressively than him if anything and he had to bust it to keep up, like all of you do when ya'll ride with Heavy!! Anyways.....bottom line is now my speedo reads true, I get better mileage, and put on less miles on the bike than stock, and I seem to pull away pretty easily under acceleration from other 1800's with a passenger. Or did that always happen??

All in all, its a pretty good mod to do.

There is only ONE downside I have experienced. At a typical 55 miles an hour, with a passenger, I do get more vibrations as the motor works hard to keep pace. This doesn't happen if its just me, or I get over 60. Its the slower roads stuck behind grey hairs that the bike doesn't like now. On highways, its truly ideal though. So, if we go slow behind yet another stupid Buick driver, I put it into 4th. (no offense to any Buick drivers here, but the typical one is 70 and up and simply can't exceed the speed limit for any reason)

End of story. I hope you all enjoyed!

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post #114 of 115 (permalink) Old 07-15-2011, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro-Gunner View Post
Below 55 mph my bike begins to lug and I have to gear down to 4th gear when passing other vehicles.
Absolute Correct, you can feel the pistons pounding in 5th below 55 grabbing too much throttle. That is lugging.
The rods are trying to pound through the thin oil film on the crank.

A vacuum gauge would prove the point showing low to zero manifold pressure
at that throttle opening with crankshaft held back from freely accelerating.

No different on piston aircraft, as manifold pressure is never abused with constant speed prop.
Air density at the prop is almost a solid, so too much pitch would lug the engine, just like too high a gear at full throttle.

Gentle throttle in 5th, 60 & below it will go fine.
To pass like you mean business, 60 & below, 4th is correct.
You instantly know it likes it.

Your truck under load does it, like it or not downshifts or unlocks torque convertor to pass.

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post #115 of 115 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 08:50 PM
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1300 with 1800 final drive

For those with 1300. When putting a 1800 final drive in, you will find your speedometer off. We found out that it causes the bike to run "out of tune" , I'm guessing because the computer uses the speed sensor pulses to adjust for timing or fuel mixture or whatever else it adjust for speed. After installing and adjusting a speedoDRD, we found the bike ran great. The speedo was off by 17%. My 1800 is only off by 3 to 5 mph and I haven't seen any running problems. And getting an accurate gas mileage would take extra calculations, I may buy one just to have an accurate speedo.

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