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post #9 of (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 09:24 AM
prkuehn
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 2,438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel.Longnecker View Post
Great info, I didnt even think about the charging system. In that case OP could just wire 1 speaker to channel 1 and 1 speaker to channel 2 with the 60w x 4 @ 4ohm rating and be around 120w total. Also there are lithium batteries that can help to upgrade the electrical system. Do they make high output stators for the X? Most car audio guys use high output alternators to keep up with electrical demand.


There are several past threads that addressed potentially increasing power through modifying the stator. I donít remember reading anything that provided an appreciable change. If you canít up the supply then the next choice is lower the demand. I replaced all lights with LED to decrease the required power to run the system. To monitor my power level I installed a power meter that uses a single multicolored led. Green is great, yellow is caution, and red means you better makes some changes. If Iím jamming to tunes while riding in stop and go traffic, I will see the light move between green and yellow as the cooling fan kicks on. At that point I know it is time to make a change and turn the stereo down thus reducing the power being demanded. For several years this simple yet effective process has served me well. Iíve never been stuck somewhere with a dead bike battery.

My amp setup is an Alpine 445 that is 4x45 Watts. The Jensen radio I have doesnít pull a continuous power for memory to slowly drain the battery which helps. Between the led turn signals, brake light and headlight I have reduced power demand by about 40 watts total which also considers 20 watts for driving lights. The power relay for everything in the fairing is cut off when the starter button is pushed to provide the most possible power for starting the bike.


2007 1300C with Woody's Fairing, HD King Tour Pack, and Cavalry Hard Bags.
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