How would you do this? (A puzzle for ya) - Page 2 - VTXOA
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-19-2016, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nate6966 View Post
This is precisely what I was envisioning that I would try first. I'd use that slot on the end of the eye bolt to not only align the lollipop, but also to hold it while tightening the nut. Final torque would be the challenge. I'd have to say trying a lock nut or potentially having enough thread to tack weld a nut on the end that I could cut off after torquing.

The slot idea to holding/preventing rotation may work in theory except that there was so little of the bolt end that could come out of the side of the pipe because too long a bolt wouldn't allow the bolt to rotate inside the pipe to 90 degrees without the top of the lollipop hitting the pipe opposite the drilled hole and catching before it could get to 90 degree angle to drop down in the hole. I suppose it could have worked if I cut the slot precisely enough, but honestly there was only about the thickness of the nut that came through (about 2/8") the pipe, which was just about enough to grab with your fingernails and that's it. After the nut was threaded on tight I didn't even have to file it or cut it because it barely was long enough for the nut to grab onto.

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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-19-2016, 10:24 PM
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So what'd you do?

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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-19-2016, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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The screwdriver slot was my best guess at ant-rotation. I give up! (That's the beer talking)
Did you notice an improvement in ride-ability?
Does it sound better?

If you're havin' a beer, cheers I am too (and thanks for guessing).


I had mounted straight pipes on a bike years ago (an 1000 cc Yamaha Virago) and without a baffle it was obnoxiously loud, so I put a small baffle in the end. On this bike the pipes have two bends in them, so I was stumped as to how I'd get even a short baffle in the pipes to cut down the noise and to give it some backpressure. Strait pipes not only are too loud, but the often don't sound good and they rob the bike of midrange power due to lack of required backpressure. I did some research and was amazed and impressed that the home-made lollipop baffle could solve my problem and that it has such a good reputation for improving sound and backpressure on straight pipes, or pipes with no other baffle.

I can't honestly say how my bike improved with the lollipop installed, as I never heard or rode the bike with those pipes sans the lollipop installed. They definitely tone down the noise some, but as far as power is concerned I was running the bike with a 2-into-1 monster pro pipe, and those are the best in terms of power so there was a loss in mid-range power in order to have those stainless steel pipes you see in my photo.

By the way, reader might be interested to know those pipes you see in the photo I posted above (Black VStar Custom Midnight 1100 cc) are pipes I made out of two header pipes from a VTX 1300. I cut off all the outer heat shields and it left a bare metal stainless steel pipe I had to hand sand to a chrome finish and cut just right to fit my Vstar as end pipes. Most people would think those pipes are chrome, but they are hand polished stainless steel! Ugh, what a lot of work!!!






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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-19-2016, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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So what'd you do?

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  1. Made my lollipop and put on the first nut all the way to the top of the threads (top being as far up the threads at the bottom of the lollipop bolt as it goes). This would hold the thing in place and keep it from falling down the drilled hole too far.
  2. Precisely measured the second nut and the distance it would end up with the pipe between it, and the first nut when it was mounted on the pipe wall. I then maked and cut the extra bold off so it was short enough to turn in the pipe and still leave enough bolt end to come through the pipe for the nut to fasten onto.
  3. I got some Kevlar thread and super glued it onto the tip/bottom of the lollipop bolt so that when it was hung, it would pull through the pipe hole.
  4. I used a vacuum to suck the thread up the pipe and out of the hole I'd drilled.
  5. I pulled the string and the lollipop bolt fasted onto it through the pipe, past the bend and with the hole facing up, simple pulled the bolt through the hole, and grabbed it with some needle-nose vice grips, then flipped the pipe over so gravity helped keep the bolt in place.
  6. I inserted a length of flexible steel conduit pipe (see image) that I had ground the tip flat and fed it down the pipe end closest to the lollipop and pressed against the lollipop to hold it in place.
  7. I removed the vice grips and carefully threaded the nut on (took several tries) until it was on enough to hold the lollipop in place.
  8. I used the orientation line to rotate the lollipop correctly inside the pipe, pressed hard with the conduit (that was resting on the flat of the lollipop) and tighted the nut as tight as it needed to be.
  9. I used Loctite red to seal the bold from coming loose and it has stayed in orientation and tight since and it has been over a year now.



The part of this I'm most proud of thinking up is the thread idea to pull the end of the bolt through the hole in the pipe. Once I thought of that, of course it dawned on me that the damn thing would just rotate as I tightened the nut if I didn't somehow figure out how to keep the bolt from rotating. It would have been simple had the pipes been straight, but having to go past a pretty tight bend made it yet another challenge in improvising. I supposes this is how some of the crazy tools people come up originate.

So now if you ever need to know how to get a lollipop baffle mounted past a pipe bend you'll know how it can be done.






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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-20-2016, 12:08 AM
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Nicely done, HOP! Makes my gears crank and start to think lollipop baffles might work well on my HK Sideburners...
Thoughts as to where I'd need to research for distance and placement?
Goal is to lower the decibels/volume.

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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-20-2016, 08:31 AM
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Nice job HOP! I like the conduit solution a lot.
Polished stainless too.
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-20-2016, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nate6966 View Post
Nicely done, HOP! Makes my gears crank and start to think lollipop baffles might work well on my HK Sideburners...
Thoughts as to where I'd need to research for distance and placement?
Goal is to lower the decibels/volume.

Sent from my... wait - No free advertising here!

look back in this thread to my post# 5, that provides all I know about where to mount the Lollipop. Big City Thunder (https://www.bigcitythunder.com/produ...les-part-2003/) sells these (see photo) if you have about $80.00 to spare, and they simply use your stock baffle mounting hole to install, unless you are doing some kind of custom location install. Most of us DIY types just make their own and spend the savings on other things. Still, Big City might have something there that suits your needs more than the most basic baffle they offer.





I would say that without a doubt installing a lollipop baffle will improve sound and performance over pipes with no baffles. The cool thing about a baffle mod is it isn't permanent, so if you don't like one version, you can re-install your previous baffle. Others may chime in regarding their experience and knowledge on the topic.

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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-20-2016, 12:46 PM
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What about securing a grabber tool to an inspection camera? Hold lollipop with grabber tool, visualize while you feed it down the pipe and the visualize proper placement.

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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-20-2016, 04:13 PM
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I bought a 650 V-star back in April and it had custom shorty exhaust on it. The pipes had no baffles and within 6 miles of riding it my ears were ringing. I had to do something and they have bends right at the end.

So, I've made straight baffles before for a bike that worked good but they wouldn't work on this one. You can buy flex baffles but they aren't cheap. So, I decided to go with the Lollipop baffles. I just welded bigger washers too bolts and then mounted them in the pipes. What a difference. Seems to have more torque at take off and the sound is at least half what it was and the sound is good as well. I now love the sound of the bike.

I mounted mine right at the end of the pipes just far enough in so you can't see them. I did it more to cut the sound more than anything.
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-20-2016, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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What about securing a grabber tool to an inspection camera? Hold lollipop with grabber tool, visualize while you feed it down the pipe and the visualize proper placement.



Actually, yes—something like the tool in the photo below could work to get the lollipop down the pipe past the bend, however once even a flexible extension goes through the pipe bend, the bend would tend to hold the wire against the top of the pipe that comes right after the bend and it becomes near impossible to place it down or up, as you could with a straight pipe. You wouldn't need a camera, if you just scored the end of the lollypop as indicated in the previous 'ideas' and my actual application. I would say that my string idea was so easy and cost-effective that anybody that wanted to use a 'grabber' could try it and I'm betting the string method would get it done faster.


Since the solution to this 'puzzle' has already been presented, the challenge now becomes to find an even easier or better method than I came up with.







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