DIY lowers the cure for wind buffeting - VTXOA
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  • 5 Post By subdude2
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  • 1 Post By Harkon
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  • 1 Post By lofty
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-23-2018, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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Cool DIY lowers the cure for wind buffeting

Hello,

I recently purchased my first trike it's a Honda VTX 1800S, new to the website too. newbie post in introduce yourself area (Howdy from San Angelo Texas).

Anyway I purchased the trike in WI and I live in Texas, so after getting it here I took her out for a test ride, Wow it was a lot to take in.

Aside from almost sliding me off the seat in a high speed turn, I was getting horrible wind buffeting, seemed like my helmet was going to shake off, and I was thinking what a mistake to buy this.

I was advised by several members here about pushing down on the floor boards to eliminate the sliding, which helped marvelously "Thank You".

Next I started looking for ways to control the wind buffeting, first I found that my bat-wing windshield was installed to low for me (I'm 6' with a long trunk).

I set it as high I could get it even with a 10" windshield, it now sets about even with the bottom of my nose.

This took away maybe 70 percent of the buffeting.

Then I started reading about lowers I found they fell in to two basic types: a plastic piece mounted off the forks

or a long narrow chrome piece hanging off the forks (Fangs).

So wanting something more personalized to the trike I made a set from steel and painted them to match.

I used a scrap outside electrical panel door, to cutout not only the lower panels but also for the 3/4" brackets that go halfway around the forks.

I measured from my turn signals down to what I thought looked pretty good without getting to long for the lowers panels, 13" by 6" at top and 4" at bottom.

I did a simple bend about 1 1/2" out from the forks (I put the black divider line in the paint there too).

I made the bracket (straps) 6" by 3/4" (bending about 4" around a 3" pipe) so that they looked similar to the letter J.

Next I cut two cutouts roughly 3/8" to 1/2" deep, at 1/2" intervals from the curved end of the bracket, to allow for the pipe clamps to be able to get a bite in the bracket and the front forks when installing.

I also installed some 1/8" thick rubber with glue to the underside of the brackets where they will contact the forks.

The next step was first to mock up the brackets and the lowers plates on the trike to mark position and weld areas.

After the two lowers were all welded up I checked fit again and prepped them for paint.

I know I wanted to follow the paint scheme that was already on the trike so I laid out what you see below. (rattle can job).

Oh, I took her out for a ride and wind buffeting is almost nonexistent now.

My cost comes down to my time / scrap metal / welding and cutting / scrap rubber / and 4 3" pipe clamps about $8.00 dollars.

Now some pictures (colors are off from taking pictures in garage) but here goes: Ta Da







Howdy from San Angelo Texas,
David Hilton Retired ETC/SS
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-23-2018, 08:01 PM
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Nice work.


Sitting on my VTX making vroom vroom sounds.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-23-2018, 09:07 PM
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Nice!
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-24-2018, 12:54 AM
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Looks great! Although I dont think I get a lot of wind from around the bottom of the Honda line windshield I may have to play around with something like you made.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-24-2018, 01:24 AM
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I like the idea of being able to slide it. I took a can am spider for a test ride on wet roads and was very disappointed that the rear wheel would not slide out. The trike looks smick ! (that means great)
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-24-2018, 05:40 AM
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Good job!!!
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-24-2018, 07:08 AM
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Very Nice. A bonus is that you get to look at your own handy work. I made some out of dark tinted Lexan from Lowes and used the same hose clamps to mount them to the forks. They work well but do not look as good as yours. Again well done.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
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Cool Note:

Note:
Changes or modifications to original equipment (bike) configuration have not been approved or tested by the factory.
If you attempt or make modifications to your equipment, the responsibility is yours for any damage to your equipment, as well as any required testing and safety issues are yours alone.
This post is for informational purposes only, and is for entertainment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by subdude2 View Post
Hello,

I recently purchased my first trike it's a Honda VTX 1800S, new to the website too. newbie post in introduce yourself area (Howdy from San Angelo Texas).

Anyway I purchased the trike in WI and I live in Texas, so after getting it here I took her out for a test ride, Wow it was a lot to take in.

Aside from almost sliding me off the seat in a high speed turn, I was getting horrible wind buffeting, seemed like my helmet was going to shake off, and I was thinking what a mistake to buy this.

I was advised by several members here about pushing down on the floor boards to eliminate the sliding, which helped marvelously "Thank You".

Next I started looking for ways to control the wind buffeting, first I found that my bat-wing windshield was installed to low for me (I'm 6' with a long trunk).

I set it as high I could get it even with a 10" windshield, it now sets about even with the bottom of my nose.

This took away maybe 70 percent of the buffeting.

Then I started reading about lowers I found they fell in to two basic types: a plastic piece mounted off the forks

or a long narrow chrome piece hanging off the forks (Fangs).

So wanting something more personalized to the trike I made a set from steel and painted them to match.

I used a scrap outside electrical panel door, to cutout not only the lower panels but also for the 3/4" brackets that go halfway around the forks.

I measured from my turn signals down to what I thought looked pretty good without getting to long for the lowers panels, 13" by 6" at top and 4" at bottom.

I did a simple bend about 1 1/2" out from the forks (I put the black divider line in the paint there too).

I made the bracket (straps) 6" by 3/4" (bending about 4" around a 3" pipe) so that they looked similar to the letter J.

Next I cut two cutouts roughly 3/8" to 1/2" deep, at 1/2" intervals from the curved end of the bracket, to allow for the pipe clamps to be able to get a bite in the bracket and the front forks when installing.

I also installed some 1/8" thick rubber with glue to the underside of the brackets where they will contact the forks.

The next step was first to mock up the brackets and the lowers plates on the trike to mark position and weld areas.

After the two lowers were all welded up I checked fit again and prepped them for paint.

I know I wanted to follow the paint scheme that was already on the trike so I laid out what you see below. (rattle can job).

Oh, I took her out for a ride and wind buffeting is almost nonexistent now.

My cost comes down to my time / scrap metal / welding and cutting / scrap rubber / and 4 3" pipe clamps about $8.00 dollars.

Now some pictures (colors are off from taking pictures in garage) but here goes: Ta Da






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Howdy from San Angelo Texas,
David Hilton Retired ETC/SS
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 03:34 PM
bdm
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Very nice really good job
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