Powder Coating Rims? - Page 4 - VTXOA
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post #31 of 44 (permalink) Old 04-22-2016, 08:28 AM
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You will want to remove the rear flange before having your rear wheel powder coated. It is very simple to do and is only held in by a large circlip that will come out easily with a small screw driver if you don't have the correct tools. Behind the flange are rubber dampeners that would probably not fair well with the the heat from the powder coat curing process. You may want to remove the flange bearings as well so you can send that piece in and have the face of it powder coated. Powder coater can tell you if they want you to remove the mounting studs or not. I don't think you will want the stud threads to get powder coat on them. They can mask and spray around the studs. Make sure you check your flange bearings for wear. With the common problems X owners have been finding with them, now would be the time to check and replace if needed. I just checked mine and found them starting to wear after 8400 miles so I will be replacing them after taking the flange and bushing into my local machine shop to be machined out for correct fit of replacement flange bearings. Pulling rear wheel bearings and flange bearings is a simple process. However, I recommend you follow Spike's suggestion and have a shop press in your replacements if you are not skilled at doing it yourself. Not worth the risk of damaging them when installing on your own IMO.
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post #32 of 44 (permalink) Old 04-22-2016, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by toamille View Post
Do I need to remove the 5 bolts and rear flange to have it powder coated? Will the old bearing remove and new put back while the flange is still attached.

Per this thread, https://www.vtxoa.com/forums/6-vtx-18...ml#post3442332

I don't need to remove the bolts. What's the best option?
You remove that and the rubber bumpers. Just remove the large C-clip you can clearly see in this picture you took.

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post #33 of 44 (permalink) Old 04-22-2016, 02:23 PM
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Powdercoat rear flange remove

I have pulled the rear wheel per www.bareasschoppers.com directions.

Took a small tool to remove the circle collar.

Then grabbed the flange and pulled straight up with even pressure. Comes right out.

Set the flange aside along with the circle collar.

Make note of how the rubber bumpers are positioned. Pull out the rubber bumpers and set aside with the circle collar and flange assembly.

Maked sure the tire valve steems are removed as well.

Bearings have been removed from both rims. Rotors have been removed as well. They will be a different color.

I'm off to have them coated will be done next week.
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Cheers, Todd
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post #34 of 44 (permalink) Old 04-22-2016, 04:42 PM
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You might think about replacing those cush drive bumpers. They are probably hard as rocks and you can see some powder from them already.

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post #35 of 44 (permalink) Old 04-23-2016, 11:44 AM
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Please share some pics when you get done at the powder coater. Bet she is going to really look great!
Tony

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post #36 of 44 (permalink) Old 04-30-2016, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by mark_1bx View Post
I have to disagree with you about re-installing the bearings. There is no way to remove the bearings without damaging them.
Agreed!
http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/reso...-use-bearings/
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post #37 of 44 (permalink) Old 05-02-2016, 08:27 PM
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how much does it cost to powder coat a rim?
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post #38 of 44 (permalink) Old 05-03-2016, 05:38 PM
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how much does it cost to powder coat a rim?
I paid $200 in the DMV area, some areas will be cheaper.
But everything costs more here!-(
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post #39 of 44 (permalink) Old 05-03-2016, 11:53 PM
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Powder coat darkside 205/55/ 16 Goodyear

1 day to get rims off, take the tires off, rotors off and remove bearings.

6 days to get the wheels back. I then decided to take the new rims, new tires, and new bearings to the local shop to have pressed and mounted.

New tires are metezler 880 front. Goodyear assurance 205/55/16 on rear. Note: tires are not balanced at this point. PSI 35 rear. 40 front

1 day to moly paste axel, rear gear, loctitie rotor bolts, and put both tires on.

Note: follow all directions provided on www.bareasschoppers.com

Note: the rear tire and rear calaper bolts gave me the most trouble.

On the test drive I completed my very first figure 8 on the road. The darkside makes it easier to turn. Feels a little like floating?.... So far darkside is the BOMB. I'm also lower of the ground with a smaller rear tire. So I got that going for me.


I noticed a little bounce while slowing down. Do I need dyno beads to balance?
Front rotor seems to be rubbing the break pad only on right side. What's the easiest fix? Sand paper?
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Cheers, Todd

Last edited by toamille; 05-03-2016 at 11:59 PM.
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post #40 of 44 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 05:54 PM
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That yellow looks awesome
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