Changing rear brakes tomorrow question. - VTXOA
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-10-2018, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Changing rear brakes tomorrow question.

Does the reservoir cap need to come off for collapsing the pistons. Replacing pads only not a bleed.

The video, I watched doesn't showing the mechanic doing it but I always have on everything else.

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-10-2018, 01:46 PM
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I always do but I don't know if it's required.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-10-2018, 02:34 PM
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Yes it does.

New pads are thicker than old, so the piston have to be pushed back into caliper to allow enough room for the disc to slide between the pads. In order for the piston to move back, fluid must be allowed to flow back into the reservoir. If that is sealed then all you are doing when trying to force the piston in is compressing that tiny amount of air left between the fluid and the cap seal; not enough room and it will spring right back.

If your just removing and reinstalling the existing pads, then no, you shouldn't have to compress piston (in most cases) as they are already at the proper extension for the amount of wear on those pads.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-10-2018, 04:51 PM
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Also if you are replacing worn pads and have added brake fluid to the reservoir or flushed the system with worn pads you will need to take some out or you will have the fluid over flowing when you compress the piston.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-10-2018, 05:57 PM
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+1.

Forgot about that. During proper maintenaince, you will be bleeding your brakes at least every 2 years if not more often, and the oem pads can last for 30k+ miles. Unless you're a full time rider, it's likely guaranteed that fluid has been added to the reservoir between first installation and end of pad life.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 05:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrthor View Post
Yes it does.

New pads are thicker than old, so the piston have to be pushed back into caliper to allow enough room for the disc to slide between the pads. In order for the piston to move back, fluid must be allowed to flow back into the reservoir. If that is sealed then all you are doing when trying to force the piston in is compressing that tiny amount of air left between the fluid and the cap seal; not enough room and it will spring right back..
I disagree. The reservoir is vented abowe the rubber float, so you can push the pistons back without problem, if fluid was not added since new brake pads were installed.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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So . . if the reservoir isn't overly full I can push the piston(s) back in with a screw driver between the old pad and rotor.

I don't have a hex allen that will fit between the hex bolt and front exhaust in order to remove the cover to remove the cap. Hardware is too far away and I want to put this behind me. I know . . quit typing already.

Thanks, for all the replies in an attempt to enlighten the ignorant.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 02:02 PM
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I find it more easy to remove the caliper, put a screwdriver between the two pads, remove the pads, install new pads and reinstall the caliper. Putting a screwdriver between a pad and the rotor could damage the disc.

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Last edited by fastspek; 03-11-2018 at 04:47 PM.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 08:36 PM
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Just make sure you carefully clean the piston/seal area before retracting them. You don't want to push a bunch of crap/debris into the cylinder, it will cut the square 'O' ring. Then you will be rebuilding the caliper. Always go slow and look ahead.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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Just make sure you carefully clean the piston/seal area before retracting them. You don't want to push a bunch of crap/debris into the cylinder, it will cut the square 'O' ring. Then you will be rebuilding the caliper. Always go slow and look ahead.
Cleaned the pistons as best I could with the caliper on the bike. Bolted it all back together, front and back, and forgot the rubber diaphragm/white dingus on the bench behind me. Took the reservoir back apart and stuck them in there. Too much brake fluid so I ended up cleaning that off the bike as best I could. Anybody switch to Dot 5 in these bikes?

If those were the original pads they had 19K on them and there was just a smidgen left. That comes out to around $3.50 per year for factory pads on a '05. I can live with that price.

Thanks, to everyone that allowed me to pick their brains on this. Very helpful.

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