Steering or Suspension - Page 2 - VTXOA
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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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If you are going to change the oil in the forks anyway,,, I would highly suggest getting a set of Progressive springs and installing them at the same time. I did this a few weeks ago, and the difference in the ride in amazing. It will be another $90 or so, but you'll already have the tubes opened up anyway, if you are replacing the oil. As stated above, you can change the weight (15# instead of 10#) but don't change the amount. You'll increase the likelihood of blowing a seal. And unless you take them completely off the bike, you won't be able to get ALL of the oil out. I bought a small hand pump, and pumped the oil out into a container, marked how much, then replaced the same amount with the new oil. You will also need the specialty tool for the left side (if you remove the springs).
Good luck,,,, and let us know how it went.
Dartanuan, thank you. I thought about it. Do you know what the model number is?
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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 02:01 PM
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I am pretty good with a wrench.
Wish I could say same with such confidence...
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post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 06:31 PM
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I am pretty good with a wrench.

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Wish I could say same with such confidence...
Start Young,,,

I started getting paid to fix bicycles at 9 years old....

cars at 14....

motorcycles at 18...

Professionally at 16..
retired now.= 58 years of wrenching.
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2005 VTX1800 F, type II, Silver Tribal, 86,000 Miles, Purchased Feb, 2005.
MTC clutch & springs.. K&N Air Filter. Garmin 2597 GPS.

Last edited by chuck_VTX F; 11-28-2018 at 06:34 PM.
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post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 07:19 PM
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try to put your front tire between tho solid objects...like a lawnmower and a car.
or whatever you have..... then muscle your handlebars back and forth

check for play,sloppy movement...noises
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post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 07:22 PM
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put my first piston in my Kawasaki f7 175 at age 14.
bicycles were never much of a challenge!!!.
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post #16 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 05:01 AM
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,
,
ever rebuild a 3 speed rear hub on a bicycle... ?

I wish I had this photo.. in 1962..

.
I rebuilt a 1961 Plymouth slant 6 ( 170 ) at 14..... MY CAR...
I have/had NO father, or relatives. I thought myself.. from library books.
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2005 VTX1800 F, type II, Silver Tribal, 86,000 Miles, Purchased Feb, 2005.
MTC clutch & springs.. K&N Air Filter. Garmin 2597 GPS.

Last edited by chuck_VTX F; 11-29-2018 at 05:20 AM.
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post #17 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 08:07 AM
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[QUOTE=Irod2;4566888]Dartanuan, thank you. I thought about it. Do you know what the model number is?


Progressive offers two options. Their stock springs for the 1800's and Gold Wing springs, which vary slightly in length. I went with the stock set --- 11-1520. They are normally $97 for the set, but I found them for around $80 on sale on one of the sites. Hope this helps.

2007 1800T, Memphis Shades 21", Kury Engine Bar & Pegs, HondaLine Light Bar, Ultimate Seats, Cobra Slash-Cuts, Progressive 430 Shocks & Springs, HondaLine Saddlebags, Iron Horse Tail Bag, Fender Rail, Color-Matched Radiator Housing, Show Chrome Fringe, Kury Iso-Grips, Custom Breather Cover. GO TEAM DREW!!!
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post #18 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck_VTX F View Post
,
,
ever rebuild a 3 speed rear hub on a bicycle... ?

I wish I had this photo.. in 1962..

.
I rebuilt a 1961 Plymouth slant 6 ( 170 ) at 14..... MY CAR...
I have/had NO father, or relatives. I thought myself.. from library books.
I had one of those, a Hercules 3 speed twist-grip shifter. Had it apart numerous times, but never 'rebuilt' one. That twist shifter was as fast as an automatic- I could whip any bike with a Derailleur gear system.

2003 1800C Black w/ H-K 3", PC III, Clearview w/s, Hondaline backrest, XM sat. radio, MB 12" shocks, Prog. fr. spgs., Wolo, SPyKER mod, Glen's gas cap, Paladins, Drag Specialties Popsicle pegs, K-N, blackened engine, Kury RTB, mirrors & r. boards, blue LED's, Rivco tach & risers, LeatherLyke bags, backrest bag, w/s tri-pouch, Gen. Altimax RT43, Mich. Cmdr. II, Ult. Lowrider, Showchrome grips. 12-18 VTXCafe Bike of the Month
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post #19 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 01:50 PM
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If you have a lift, get the bike up and see how loose the front feels. There should be some light resistance in the steering. I had my 2007 VTX 1800T steering bearing re-torqued to specification and the bike only had 10K miles on it at the time. When my steering was loose, I could hear a clunk when I hit small pot holes or road bumps.
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post #20 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you guys!! I will look at the progressive springs for when i change the fork oil.

Yesterday, it felt even looser. I got home, put the bike on the lift, did not feel any movement front to back or anything (at least not that I could feel), the steering had no resistance, it would not stay put anywhere, it will move side to side if you blew next to it.
Remove the top of the triple tree, and with my hand undid the nut holding the bearing and the top nut with the washer as well, all come together.
Front end dropped. I realized it might have been too loose.

I put the bearing back in place, lifted the front (from the fender) to be able to screw the nut again. And did it per the video on bareass, by hand, and added a little extra afterwards.
I tested it on the street it seemed ok, will have to do my normal trip to see if it made a difference.

I have two concerns:

1. wwould the nut normally be unscrewed by hand, that easy?
2. how can i be sure i sat everything right, since i was holding the front end from the fender, all the way so I could screw the nut back in place? Is there an angle I need to make sure the front end is at?

Thank you all for the help this far. It has been appreciated.
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