Starter Solenoid Failure 2007 1800F - VTXOA
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Starter Solenoid Failure 2007 1800F

The other night about five miles from home, I started the engine and the starter wouldn't disengage. Rather than messing with the abbreviated tool kit under the right side cover, I rode the bike home and removed one of the battery leads to stop the starter from spinning.

Instead of trying to replace the OEM solenoid I picked up an STD SS581 automotive solenoid at O'Reilly Auto Parts for $28.75 including tax. They only had a couple solenoids in the store and both were quite large, so I bought the least expensive one.

I fabricated an aluminum plate bracket that raised and set the new solenoid closer to the battery by about 1/2 inch. I had to bend the battery cables to get them to fit the new solenoid. And then using electricians tape sealed with PVC cement or shrink tubing I covered all four terminals.

The contacts in the old solenoid had welded together. I am hoping that this larger solenoid will carry the current to the starter better than the OEM solenoid.




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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 05:07 PM
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Change your battery or this will happen again. All the bad solenoids started from weak batteries.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chicago-Spike View Post
Change your battery or this will happen again. All the bad solenoids started from weak batteries.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

17 years of history .. is FACT...
all 1800 will do this at some time...

as I test my battery ( 100 amp load test ).... every year..
I still have my "F" original starter solenoid ( 2005, 86,000 miles )

many use the riding lawn mower solenoid....

a VTX1800 draws the same power as a Chevy V8....

with a battery 1/3 the size.

reason for decompression camshaft lobe ... and headlight out on starter switch...
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2005 VTX1800 F, type II, Silver Tribal, 86,000 Miles, Purchased Feb, 2005.
MTC clutch & springs.. K&N Air Filter. Garmin 2597 GPS.

Last edited by chuck_VTX F; 04-17-2019 at 05:22 PM.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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It's interesting that you both are telling me that it could be my battery, because lately I noticed that every once in a while the engine didn't turn over like I think it should. I checked the connections, except for the one on the starter. I will check the starter connection. The battery is two years old (AGM) and has always been left on a maintainer when the bike isn't being ridden. If the starter connection is good, I will pull the battery and have it tested. Thanks for the information.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 09:57 AM
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If that Starter Relay has an "I" terminal there is a good chance that your "Honda Ground line safety interlock" can be damaged.
+12v from battery when Starter Relay activated vs Ground line from Neutral Switch/Kickstand switch.
Look at the Green/Red wire and look at the schematic.
The PDF has info on the Ford Starter Relay for that reason.
Attached Images
File Type: png 1800 starter relay ckt.png (167.3 KB, 14 views)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Ford Starter Relay--MODIFIED.pdf (335.4 KB, 18 views)

2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 190,260 VTX miles
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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Hans, Thanks for the heads up about using the Ford solenoid. You are absolutely correct. I don't have the starter lockout feature on either the side stand or the gear position. I will either modify the solenoid or use a solenoid for a lawn tractor. I presume the tractor solenoid won't have the same wiring design at the Ford solenoid.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 02:34 PM
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Lawnmower relay is made for safety interlock. The downside is lower current capacity.

The Ford modified relay is the best.

2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 190,260 VTX miles
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans&Feet View Post
Lawnmower relay is made for safety interlock. The downside is lower current capacity.

The Ford modified relay is the best.



lawn mower relay is rated for a low compression 2 cylinder engine ( 400cc )



a Ford starter relay is rated for a V8 big block ... ( 6,000cc plus )



my opinion.



2005 VTX1800 F, type II, Silver Tribal, 86,000 Miles, Purchased Feb, 2005.
MTC clutch & springs.. K&N Air Filter. Garmin 2597 GPS.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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I disassembled the Ford type solenoid and rewired the trigger circuit. All is well and the safety lockouts work as they should.
Thanks for your help.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 10:23 PM
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My greater interest in modifying the relay was "not" the safety lockout but the fact the "I" terminal in the orginal form has +12volts on it when the relay is operated and Green/Red has a Ground on it from the Neutral. There was going to be a burned wire on the Ground line wires at some point in time. KS Up and Clutch operated the clutch switch passes the Ground to the Red/Green. This was the 2nd scenario for smoke. +12v on the "I" terminal was going to Ground, effectively a short.

2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 190,260 VTX miles

Last edited by Hans&Feet; 04-21-2019 at 10:36 PM.
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