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Starter Solenoid Failure 2007 1800F

4K views 9 replies 4 participants last post by  Hans&Feet 
#1 ·
The other night about five miles from home, I started the engine and the starter wouldn't disengage. Rather than messing with the abbreviated tool kit under the right side cover, I rode the bike home and removed one of the battery leads to stop the starter from spinning.

Instead of trying to replace the OEM solenoid I picked up an STD SS581 automotive solenoid at O'Reilly Auto Parts for $28.75 including tax. They only had a couple solenoids in the store and both were quite large, so I bought the least expensive one.

I fabricated an aluminum plate bracket that raised and set the new solenoid closer to the battery by about 1/2 inch. I had to bend the battery cables to get them to fit the new solenoid. And then using electricians tape sealed with PVC cement or shrink tubing I covered all four terminals.

The contacts in the old solenoid had welded together. I am hoping that this larger solenoid will carry the current to the starter better than the OEM solenoid.



 
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#3 · (Edited)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

17 years of history .. is FACT...
all 1800 will do this at some time...

as I test my battery ( 100 amp load test ).... every year..
I still have my "F" original starter solenoid ( 2005, 86,000 miles )

many use the riding lawn mower solenoid....

a VTX1800 draws the same power as a Chevy V8....

with a battery 1/3 the size.

reason for decompression camshaft lobe ... and headlight out on starter switch...
 
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#4 ·
It's interesting that you both are telling me that it could be my battery, because lately I noticed that every once in a while the engine didn't turn over like I think it should. I checked the connections, except for the one on the starter. I will check the starter connection. The battery is two years old (AGM) and has always been left on a maintainer when the bike isn't being ridden. If the starter connection is good, I will pull the battery and have it tested. Thanks for the information.
 
#5 ·
If that Starter Relay has an "I" terminal there is a good chance that your "Honda Ground line safety interlock" can be damaged.
+12v from battery when Starter Relay activated vs Ground line from Neutral Switch/Kickstand switch.
Look at the Green/Red wire and look at the schematic.
The PDF has info on the Ford Starter Relay for that reason.
 

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#6 ·
Hans, Thanks for the heads up about using the Ford solenoid. You are absolutely correct. I don't have the starter lockout feature on either the side stand or the gear position. I will either modify the solenoid or use a solenoid for a lawn tractor. I presume the tractor solenoid won't have the same wiring design at the Ford solenoid.
 
#8 ·
lawn mower relay is rated for a low compression 2 cylinder engine ( 400cc )



a Ford starter relay is rated for a V8 big block ... ( 6,000cc plus )



my opinion.
 
#10 · (Edited)
My greater interest in modifying the relay was "not" the safety lockout but the fact the "I" terminal in the orginal form has +12volts on it when the relay is operated and Green/Red has a Ground on it from the Neutral. There was going to be a burned wire on the Ground line wires at some point in time. KS Up and Clutch operated the clutch switch passes the Ground to the Red/Green. This was the 2nd scenario for smoke. +12v on the "I" terminal was going to Ground, effectively a short.
 
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