Lost all electrical power, need help - VTXOA
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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Lost all electrical power, need help

My wife just got a 2004 VTX1800r and love it. We are young and newly wed and this is our first bike together. Just had a little trouble today and would really like some help. We have taken it for several rides and put about 200 miles on it. About a week and a half ago the whole bike lost all electrical power while riding. I pulled off to the side of the road popped off the seat with my tool kit and the battery cables were loose. Tightened them down and everything seemed to be fine. Well earlier today when I took it out it died again. I was about to park it to go inside and it died before I even put it in neutral. Also the kick stand was still up. I pulled the seat off again and the terminals were still tight but the bike wasn’t getting any power so I got my wife to bring me a multimeter and I tested the battery. It was still reading correct voltage. I checked all the fuses and they all appeared to be good. I didn’t know where to go from here as I’m still pretty new to the bikes mechanics. I didn’t want to dig much deeper out in the parking lot. But now I am looking for some suggestions. The bike has been acting kind of funny the last 100 miles or so. There were a couple times when I turned it off and it kinda hesitated to start but did after a moment, but it never lost electrical power completely. Like it has now. Any help would be greatly appreciated. We love riding and I really want to learn how to operate on this bike myself if possible. I am pretty handy with most things so I feel like if I get some direction I might be able to get her back in working order. By the way her name is Black Betty as we live way down in Alabam’ and she is a beautiful black bike.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 10:41 PM
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There are two 30amp main fuses in the left cover and a spare 30 amp.
There is a two wire cable from the 30 amp fuses to a 2 pin connector near the starter relay.
These two wires go to the Main cable harness. Red and Red/White wires. Inspect the 2 pin connector.

Verify voltage from the IGN switch at the small fuse box on the right side fuse box.
Voltage test is the way to find an open with a load.(IGN sw ON)
Check voltage at battery posts, lugs on the battery posts in case oxidation has caused an open.

IGN switch to Right side fuses are using Red/Black wires.

Two diagrams that overlap some.
Attached Images
File Type: png 1800 chargingcktv2.PNG (102.5 KB, 10 views)
File Type: png 1800 starter relay ckt.png (167.3 KB, 8 views)
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2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 192,635 VTX miles

Last edited by Hans&Feet; 08-14-2019 at 10:44 PM.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 11:25 PM
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Welcome to VTXOA. Congrats on your new to you bike. You will get lots of help here to get you going.

Good info above from Hans&Feet. He is very knowledgeable.

Check out the info in the following two links on no start issues:
Read thru and pay attention to my post #12 as a known problem with the P2 connector.
https://www.vtxoa.com/forums/6-vtx-1...ont-start.html

Another link from the "How to 1800 section" on the ground fix problem:
It is the top thread in this link and also lots of other help info there too.
https://www.vtxoa.com/forums/97-1800-section/

Good luck and keep us updated.

2002 1800C ILLUSION BLUE - Cobra angle slash cuts - Cobra FI2000 - Memphis Fats 21" - Hondaline 24L bags with Easy Brackets - Corbin Gunfighter and a lot more.....


. ====>> KEEP IT VERTICAL <<====

Last edited by Jim Travis; 08-15-2019 at 02:47 PM.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 01:15 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans&Feet View Post
There are two 30amp main fuses in the left cover and a spare 30 amp.
There is a two wire cable from the 30 amp fuses to a 2 pin connector near the starter relay.
These two wires go to the Main cable harness. Red and Red/White wires. Inspect the 2 pin connector.

Verify voltage from the IGN switch at the small fuse box on the right side fuse box.
Voltage test is the way to find an open with a load.(IGN sw ON)
Check voltage at battery posts, lugs on the battery posts in case oxidation has caused an open.

IGN switch to Right side fuses are using Red/Black wires.

Two diagrams that overlap some.
Awesome info. I’ll definitely give it a whirl tomorrow after work. I’m bound and determined to nail this one down.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 08:55 AM
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Eliminate problems 1 step at a time. Just as a suggestion, fully charge the battery, take it to an auto parts place that will do a free 100 amp LOAD test for an auto, not the standard 20 amp load test for a MC. These bikes take the same amps to crank a 350 Chevy over, from a battery 1/3 the size. A battery can show 12 V+ but still have a weak cell or 2, and the amp load test shows if it's good or not. The 1800 with all its electronics & FI it is crucial to have a good performing battery. When not riding mine, from day 1 I keep her on a Battery Tender Jr. for optimal performance. The charging systems on these bikes is NOT like a car, running at idle or low rpm's such as a newer rider would do while learning, does not charge the battery like running down the interstate at 3K rpm's does. I for 1, recommend when replacing the battery, stick with the YUASA OEM battery. My $.02
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 01:06 PM
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Another question, does your X have aux lights?

If yes where does it get +12v?

What wattage lamps?
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans&Feet View Post
Another question, does your X have aux lights?

If yes where does it get +12v?

What wattage lamps?
It does have aux lights. I’m not sure wattage or where it’s tied in at but it has an aux on the handlebars.

I got the battery tested and it was a good battery but it was completely dead. I charged it up and plugged it in and it and..... Well the starter kept going and going trying to crank before I even turned the key. Of corse once I turned the key on it cranked right up but the starter kept going. From what I have read it is saying this is probably the starter solenoid. I knocked it and it has seemed to stop but I’ve read that this means it’s probably time to change it out.

What do you guys think?
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 10:37 PM
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The starter solenoid is a fairly common issue and fairly easy to replace. Sometimes the contacts in the start button overheat and fuse.

2003 VTX 1800R
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 12:20 AM
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Starter Relay contacts welding together is a common problem. Weak battery not holding a good connection generates arcs when contacts open.

The only valid battery test is with a 100 amp tester.
NAPA uses this kind of
tester.
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2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 192,635 VTX miles
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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that's good to know about the battery tester, I have a NAPA near my house, I might take it there to get it tested. It seams to be running good today. I rode it to work and it seemed like it was all operating perfectly.

I do plan to get a new solenoid today though and replace it just in case, they seem cheep enough were even if it isn't the main problem it is worth replacing just to know for a fact that that's not the problem.

Thank you guys for all the help.
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