Coils - VTXOA
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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Coils

Looking to replace at least the rear coil. Noticed they are different color and also different on vehicle wiring harness fiche. Some coils on Ebay don't say front or rear....do I need to be concerned about buying a single coil?

Thanks
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 06:35 PM
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Need to know model and year. 2008 VTX1300R has the same part number for both coils.
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ho...x/wire-harness
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2008 VTX1300R
Ultimate Seat
National Windshield - Modified
Cobra Light Bar
Hard Krome ? Pipes - 2 1/2"
Engine Guard - 1 1/4"
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 06:36 PM
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2002 1800S
Both coils almost look identical. One by Tec and the other? Two suppliers for identical products???
Both probably the same resistance on the coils.

Previously you mentioned no spark, then you had spark.
Then it was the fuel system. then it stopped FP prime.
Injectors have 13 -14 ohms resistance. Measure..
Remove the ECM connectors and put a Ground on the wire to the injectors. Do you hear them click?
You can do the same thing with the IGN coils.
Black/White stripe wire feeds +12v(battery voltage) to coils, injectors, ECM when IGN ON and Kill switch in RUN position.
Verify that the BL/W +12v never drops more than a few tenths of a volt from battery voltage.

No hard evidence provided.
Fuel pump pressure test, you did something. Was it conclusive?

Do you know anyone that can make a peak voltage tester? A 400 - 600 volt 1 amp diode/rectifier and a .1ufd capacitor.
Peak voltage adapter is what Honda uses for their testing of IGN coils, pulse generators.

Do you have a spark at the sparkplugs?
Do you have resistance from one sparkplug cap to the other?

2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 194,184 VTX miles

Last edited by Hans&Feet; 09-03-2019 at 06:43 PM.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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Good friend and I have spent quite a bit of time testing and checking electrical, removing & cleaning injectors, etc. Using the manual for tolerances, specs, etc. We are at the point where the bike will start and idle roughly. Have to play with the throttle to increase rpms without killing it, but once past the "lower rpm range", it revs nicely.

On the fuel, I removed the supply line from tank at the rail (near FPR) and it pumped strongly into a container. Couldn't do pressure, but the flow was in accordance with what manual said I should get (amount at 10 seconds). The rear coil output is weak, weak spark on both rear plugs.

Ordered new coils, will install next week. If this isn't the issue, will continue to hunt.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, new coils didn't change a thing. I was just about to order new return and fuel filter and pull the tank when I decided I'd ask again if anyone had a similar experience or knew if this is symptomatic of low fuel supply. Pops/backfires out the intake, so much that with the hypercharger off I can see flame out past the butterflies....not good. I've checked the cam position sensor and there's no corrosion, etc. there. Any other sensors that might screw the timing without shutting it down...TPS?

Thanks, have a safe week, hope everyone gets to ride. I'll be on my '98 Tourer tomorrow if the weather prediction is true.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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Was just "talking" with someone and they mentioned the fuel pump sensor built into the pump. Claim this would cause exactly these "symptoms" and just need to change pump. Thoughts?
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 08:43 PM
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Fuel pump sensor mounted on the fuel pump bracket on the 1st GEN is for the "Low Fuel" indicator only.

There were a few 1800C that had issues with engine starving for fuel on rapid decell when on last quarter of fuel.

Turns out the fuel sock was delaminating and blocking FP intake causing fuel starvation.

I found a part of it.

08:28 AM 04-22-2016
#1
Jimbo
Thanks to all who added their thoughts. Been so busy at my nephews shop (shoemakers shoes) that it was not until last Sunday that I pulled the fuel pump out. Also thanks to JerryVTX18 for posting pics of his fouled pick-up screen. The flat nylon (as it appears) element was covered in a blackish residue. This crap was nowhere else in the tank, or on any other part of the pump. It is clipped to the inlet side of the pump. There are ribs on its inside to keep it from collapsing, and I could see how it had been sucked down against them. I removed it, blew it out with 'brake-clean' and shop air, scrubbed outside with my GFs best toothbrush, and blew it out again. Ran it down to the low fuel light came on and NO MORE STALLING! Cleaned her toothbrush with soap and water and slipped it back in the holder. She doesn't suspect a thing.

2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 194,184 VTX miles

Last edited by Hans&Feet; 09-10-2019 at 08:58 PM.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 05:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrapperAH1G View Post
Was just "talking" with someone and they mentioned the fuel pump sensor built into the pump. Claim this would cause exactly these "symptoms" and just need to change pump. Thoughts?
What is the fuel pump sensor? There is a low fuel level sensor in the fuel tank, but if you fill up the tank, that should solve low fuel level problem. And what are your "symptoms"? I'm confused. You said weak spark at the rear coil. That's not fuel related. The other thing you said is rough idle. That's not low fuel problem again, if everyting is O. K. at higher rpm, as you mentioned.


VTX 1800/280
You can say anything stupid. It's the internet. No real consequences for YOU.

Last edited by ervin260; 09-11-2019 at 05:08 AM.
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