No electrical power - VTXOA
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-01-2019, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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No electrical power

Rode my 2006 VTX 1800C2. Drove it during the day. Then jumped on it, hit starter button, starter turned over once or twice. Then nothing. No power to the digital odometer and no lights. Leaving bike at work and wife picking me up. Asked her to bring a voltmeter but she doesn't know what one looks like at the house. I purchased bike 12/31/18 with 5,000 miles. Maybe original battery in it. Any clues to check for, much appreciated.
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-01-2019, 08:35 PM
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If it is the OEM battery it had a long life.

You should have used a jumper cable to see if it would come to life.

Oxidation or loose battery connections... Cell went open or inter-cell link broke..

Have NAPA check battery. They generally use a tester that puts a 100 amp load on the battery.
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2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 194,184 VTX miles
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-02-2019, 01:46 AM Thread Starter
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Rented trailer and got it home. Put the voltmeter on it and it showed 12.8 volts. Was going to try and jump start it but... How do you connect legs jumper cables?
 
post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-02-2019, 01:57 AM
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That voltage reading means nothing! Like Hans said, take the battery to get it LOAD tested 100 amps. It can show 12+ volts and still have a weak or dead cell or 2, and not have enough kick to turn it over. Spend your $$ on a Yuasa replacement battery, and then an extra $30 for a Battery Tender Jr. and keep it hooked up when not riding. It has been mentioned it takes the same amps to start our VTX's that a small block Chevy V8 does, and yet with 1/3 the size battery.

2003 1800C Black w/ H-K 3", PC III, Clearview w/s, Hondaline backrest, XM sat. radio, MB 12" shocks, Prog. fr. spgs., Wolo, SPyKER mod, Glen's gas cap, Paladins, Drag Specialties Popsicle pegs, K-N, blackened engine, Kury RTB, mirrors & r. boards, blue LED's, Rivco tach & risers, LeatherLyke bags, backrest bag, w/s tri-pouch, Gen. Altimax RT43, Mich. Cmdr. II, Ult. Lowrider, Showchrome grips. 12-18 VTXCafe Bike of the Month
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-02-2019, 02:28 AM
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Happened to me. My fix was the battery cable connections at the battery had vibrated loose.

I would remove them, clean terminals on battery and cables then reinstall and tighten with a socket and ratchet. These need to be checked once in a while.

Good luck and hope this may help.
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-02-2019, 09:28 AM
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Measure the battery voltage with the Ign Key ON. Battery posts then the cable terminals on the battery posts..

Another test with volt meter on the battery posts..
1. Transmission in Neutral
2. Place a screwdriver across the Starter Relay bolts with the big cables under them.
It will arc and spark and the engine should crank over.
3. What was the voltage while cranking if it did crank?

2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 194,184 VTX miles
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-02-2019, 09:35 AM
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I have a question...why is it important to find out if a 13 year old battery is good...what’s wrong with getting new battery and starting(no pun)there....inquiring minds would like to know.....
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Last edited by TennX; 10-02-2019 at 10:02 AM.
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-02-2019, 09:56 AM
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The same happened to me yesterday.

1500 miles from home (Denver area) in the middle of Sequoia National Park no juice whatsoever. Bike was pointed downhill so rolled it and it started.
Drove 75 miles west to Fresno where it is now at the dealer who will be installing a new stator tomorrow.
Bike is 16 years old and has 95k miles and things happen, but the time and location just is a pain in the you-know-what.
BTW: yes, it ran for 75 miles but it was not happy, it had to be kept at relative high rpm.
But I made it to about 5 miles from dealer, better than being stuck in the middle of nowhere.
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-02-2019, 10:09 AM
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2006 1800 Winlange bought it Dec 2018.
5k miles, parked for a long time.

What is the probability of it being OEM?? Low
If it was on a tender for all the years maybe.
If not on a tender then probably not the OEM.
Usually a replacement battery will have a date code sticker on them, if a distributor filled/charged it.

Winlange - any maintenance records?

2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 194,184 VTX miles
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-02-2019, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henkvdb View Post
The same happened to me yesterday.

1500 miles from home (Denver area) in the middle of Sequoia National Park no juice whatsoever. Bike was pointed downhill so rolled it and it started. Drove 75 miles west to Fresno where it is now at the dealer who will be installing a new stator tomorrow.
Bike is 16 years old and has 95k miles and things happen, but the time and location just is a pain in the you-know-what.
BTW: yes, it ran for 75 miles but it was not happy, it had to be kept at relative high rpm.
But I made it to about 5 miles from dealer, better than being stuck in the middle of nowhere.
I am on the 2nd replacement Stator and R/R.
The first one was a no crank 20 miles from the house. Four jumps from a vehicle to get home.
2nd failure was detected when my led indicator was off. It lights up at 13.5 volts.

I suggest a volt meter or a led charge indicator so you can see what is going on.
I have a picture of a 3 component charge indicator, 12v zener diode, led, a resistor.

The OEM R/R is a "shunt" regulating unit, it shorts the stator to controls battery voltage.
My 1st replacement R/R was a better shunting regulator.
My 2nd replacement R/R is a series regulating unit, it opens the stator output to control battery voltage.

Replacing filament bulbs with leds means less current needed but more shunting/shorting required to regulate the DC voltage.

2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 194,184 VTX miles
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