Rear tire change for VTX Spokes, including new tube - Questions - VTXOA
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 07:30 AM Thread Starter
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Question Rear tire change for VTX Spokes, including new tube - Questions

G'day all. I'm going to get my 2007 1300 Spokes' rear tire changed at an independent shop and I'd like to know of any specifics of the process to remind the mechanic of. Putting a new Michelin Commander II (170/80) and also a new Michelin tube as it's impossible to find a Dunlop tube in stock around these parts.

Questions:

1) When putting tube in, it's imperative to check for creases. Anything specific to ask them to check? They mostly change car tires and sportbike tires so unsure about their experience putting in a new motorcycle tube correctly.

2) I'll be bringing my own tub of moly paste (Loctite 77). How should the previous paste/grease in the splines be cleaned? Any special cleaning products or just clean with a cloth?

3) Moly paste goes into the rear tire's flange and into the final drive's gear set. Essentially the places where the wheel hub mates to the final drive. Correct?

4) How many finger dabs of moly paste should be used?

5) Removing axel and putting it back. If it gets a little stuck, then use a rubber mallet. NEVER a regular hammer or anything hard. Right?

6) I'd like to check evenness of axle and state of bearings. As I recall, cues are to run fingers through axle to check for denting and also visually inspect it. For bearings, it's stick a finger into the hole where the axle goes and check for smooth rotation. Does the flange set need to be removed so as to finger rotate the bearings?

7) Respect torque values. Don't go by "feel" and use the manual's torque values (have Clymer manual). Anything to be real careful about not over/under torquing?

8) Careful when removing brake caliper, leave to rest over a towel on the exhaust.

9) Brake rotor does not need to be removed. Correct?

10) Balancing rear tire. Mine has a weight that clips onto a spoke. Michelin claims their tubes are constructed to help with balancing the tire.

11) Clean off any rust around the valve area. But since new tube with stem going in, any areas to clean off around where the valve inserts into the wheel?

12) Check for rust on the perimeter of the wheel where the tube rests against.

Anything else worth checking or reminding the mechanic about? Shop has experience with sportbikes and chain-driven bikes, so it's removing of the wheel and putting back on that concerns me.

Thanks

Tsukayu VTX hard bags & Tour trunk, Saddlemen touring seat with backrest, NC custom windshield, Risers, LED lightbar, Engine guard LED lights, Cobra fatty guard, Rear engine guards, Fender rail guard, Leather tank bib, Passenger floorboards, 12v socket, ISO grips WITH bar weights, Engine chrome, Triple tree cover, Shaft cover, Fenders chrome, Progressive forks & 12.5 inch shocks, All Balls mod, Chrome clock, Adjustable trunk rack
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 09:44 AM
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I'm sure someone will be along shortly to answer each and every individual question. For now, I'm suggesting you look at Bareasschoppers Remove/Install Rear Tire page.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 11:42 AM
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I have a wooden dowel that is perfect for driving out axle. Never had to hit it hard.


As for #8 - I use a bungie cord to hold the weight of caliper, rather than letting it pull on hoses.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 02:48 PM
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download honda manual from here. Forget the clymer. Almost everything you mentioned is in there. The rest , they should know. Get a different mechanic? (if you have doubts). Idk if you have another one around. They must have done shaft bikes too. i think you're stressing over something minor
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaSteve View Post
I'm sure someone will be along shortly to answer each and every individual question. For now, I'm suggesting you look at Bareasschoppers Remove/Install Rear Tire page.
Thanks. I was reading his rear tire installation page again today as it had been a while since I last read it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dud-57 View Post
I have a wooden dowel that is perfect for driving out axle. Never had to hit it hard.


As for #8 - I use a bungie cord to hold the weight of caliper, rather than letting it pull on hoses.
Thanks for the tips.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cc rider View Post
download honda manual from here. Forget the clymer. Almost everything you mentioned is in there. The rest , they should know. Get a different mechanic? (if you have doubts). Idk if you have another one around. They must have done shaft bikes too. i think you're stressing over something minor
Yep, have the Honda Manual too, but the Clymer is the one I have at hand.

The only mechanic I trust is on sick leave. I've phoned 7 shops in the area (and beyond) and when I asked them if they lube splines when changing rear tires, their answers were either:

A) What splines?
B) There's no need to lube splines as splines in Honda motorcycles come with grease already sealed lasting the lifetime of the bike (u wot, mate?).
C) Yes, we use transmission grease. Or chain lube.

These 7 shops are big shops selling a lot of bikes and fixing them too. Shaft driven bikes are as rare as hen's teeth in these parts. It's all chain driven sportbike types. Even the only Honda dealership here uses some grease with a minimal % of moly to lube splines.

This last shop I called seemed professional enough but I could not get ahold of the main mechanic. The are calling me tomorrow and are keen for me to ask them questions.

In all honesty I would rather do all of this myself but right now I don't have a dedicated space to fully work on my bike. I've worked on quite a few things of my bike already and I really enjoy working on it as a hobby.

Tsukayu VTX hard bags & Tour trunk, Saddlemen touring seat with backrest, NC custom windshield, Risers, LED lightbar, Engine guard LED lights, Cobra fatty guard, Rear engine guards, Fender rail guard, Leather tank bib, Passenger floorboards, 12v socket, ISO grips WITH bar weights, Engine chrome, Triple tree cover, Shaft cover, Fenders chrome, Progressive forks & 12.5 inch shocks, All Balls mod, Chrome clock, Adjustable trunk rack

Last edited by EuroDude; 04-16-2019 at 06:13 PM.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude View Post
Thanks. I was reading his rear tire installation page again today as it had been a while since I last read it.
...
The only mechanic I trust is on sick leave. I've phoned 7 shops in the area (and beyond) and when I asked them if they lube splines when changing rear tires, their answers were either:

A) What splines?
B) There's no need to lube splines as splines in Honda motorcycles come with grease already sealed lasting the lifetime of the bike (u wot, mate?).
C) Yes, we use transmission grease. Or chain lube.

These 7 shops are big shops selling a lot of bikes and fixing them too. Shaft driven bikes are as rare as hen's teeth in these parts. It's all chain driven sportbike types. Even the only Honda dealership here uses some grease with a minimal % of moly to lube splines.

This last shop I called seemed professional enough but I could not get ahold of the main mechanic. The are calling me tomorrow and are keen for me to ask them questions...
I've always wiped the old grease out with a shop rag. Not really "cleaned," just wiped it off to remove the dirty stuff. After that put Moly paste on both sides of the splines. Nothing scientific here.

You stated in the original post "I'll be bringing my own tub of moly paste (Loctite 77)." I searched for Loctite 77 and didn't see any informative results. I use


which I get from Amazon.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 12:33 PM
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M77 is the new Honda Moly paste, replaces the old Moly 60.

LOCTITE 51048 Moly Paste Anti-Seize Compound is 65% moly

Seek and ye shall find
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 12:41 PM
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 12:59 PM
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OH! "HONDA" M-77! I'll get that next time.

I'm gonna hit the highway like a battering ram, on a silver-black PHANTOM bike!
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, my Loctite is 65% not 77%. I bought it over a year ago. I must have gotten confused with the Honda paste. My moly paste is Loctite LB 8012 which I'm assuming is the previous version to the newer Loctite LOC51048 moly paste as they're both the same % and have similar packaging. The LB 8012 is what the guys on the Goldwing forums recommended when I went through my researching of moly paste.

I got 2 tubs of it from Amazon. Apparently one tub is enough to outlast the lifetime of a bike and then some more. So 2 tubs it was. In like Flynn.

Tsukayu VTX hard bags & Tour trunk, Saddlemen touring seat with backrest, NC custom windshield, Risers, LED lightbar, Engine guard LED lights, Cobra fatty guard, Rear engine guards, Fender rail guard, Leather tank bib, Passenger floorboards, 12v socket, ISO grips WITH bar weights, Engine chrome, Triple tree cover, Shaft cover, Fenders chrome, Progressive forks & 12.5 inch shocks, All Balls mod, Chrome clock, Adjustable trunk rack
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