Fixing Speedo Rattle - Questions (after reading threads/guides) - VTXOA
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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Question Fixing Speedo Rattle - Questions (after reading threads/guides)

Wanted to re-do the speedo dash rattle fix so I took the speedo dash and chrome nacelle apart. This time I used thick rubber strips glued to the glass perimeter of the speedo (automobile window strips). The speedo is now solidly fixed and no rattle.

Problem is that due to the thickness of the rubber strips on the glass perimeter, there's too much space between the holes of the chrome nacelle and the metal mounts for the speedo.

Couple of questions:

1) Has anyone used anything other than the OEM bolts (with the circled shoulders to fit into the chrome nacelle's holes)? I'm trying to use regular bolts with no shoulders and fabricating washers out of plastic bottle tops to secure the bolt's head onto the hole. It seems to work but I'd rather use the OEM bolts.

2) Regarding the metal tab (from the tank's front) with the rubber cover: is the chrome nacelle supposed to secure into it?

Once I've screwed the 4 bolts mating the chrome nacelle and speedo dash, there's a pocket/insertion (4 plastic walls indicating an insertion) in the chrome nacelle right behind the speedo dash. I'm trying to insert the metal tab (with the rubber cover) into said pocket in the nacelle, but, for the life of me, I cannot get it to do so and instead said pocket ends up laying atop the metal tab.

Is said pocket supposed to insert/clamp into the metal tab with the rubber cover? I can still get a secure hold with the pocket atop the metal tab.

3) When I was dismantling the speedo mount from the chrome nacelle, a nylon washer fell inside the space on the front of the tank (behind the triple tree/neck of frame). The washer didn't fall off on the ground once it went into that space, so it's under the tank somewhere. Is there any danger of the washer getting inside any of the essentials (e.g. inside the cylinders, carb, intakes, etc)?

Are there any openings under the tank for the washer to get inside/into? Or perhaps for the washer to stay on and get burnt from cylinder heat next time I ride the bike?

If you need pics let me know.

Many Thanks.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 05:33 PM
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I used foam weatherstripping tape on the clear lense of the speedo.
Rubber washers on the 6 bolts.
Everything lined up when installing it back.

2006 Honda VTX 1300S, 9600 Miles, Ultimate Big Boy seat with backrest, several of Glens products.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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Update for anyone interested in speedo rattles:

I managed to line everything up with the rubber strips I used on the perimeter of the speedo glass. Problem is the thickness of it yields extra space between the chrome mount points and the speedo's metal mounts. So I used regular 5# bolts with a longer stroke instead of the OEM shouldered bolts.

I fabricated washers out of soda bottle tops. The plastic here is tough enough to not squash under hard pressure when used as a washer. I used velcro felt to cushion the mounts.

For the lower 3 mounts of the chrome nacelle, I used the OEM shouldered bolts but I added two OEM washers instead of one to further cushion vibes.

About the metal tab I mentioned. I had to pay attention to line it up as the extra space from the rubber strips made it tricky to get the right angle to insert the metal tab into.

Once all installed, I used a rubber mallet to tap everywhere on the speedo and nacelle. Not a single vibrating sound! Before, I'd tap the speedo glass with the rubber mallet and I'd get a reverb vibration. Ditto for the area around the speedo. Not a single reverb or vibe!

I still need to take the bike for a spin to confirm that this was a success. But I'm very happy since I had to come up with how to get the regular bolts to fit into the mounts as if they were shouldered (that's where the soda bottle tops idea to create washers was key). Also lining the speedo glass against the chrome nacelle was a job on its own as the fit of the speedo seems to be cocked to the right. I had to play with the placement of the rubber strips to get it all centered, snug and also have the rubber strips layering the perimeter of the glass vs the chrome nacelle (otherwise the rubber strips would not do their job).

IMO the speedo dash needs to be fit very snug against the nacelle and not left floating as many people have. The rubber strips create a great seal to dampen any vibrations.

I really feel that Honda could have done a better job with dampening acoustics of the speedo dash/chrome nacelle. Eve the OEM washers for the shouldered bolts deform and squash after the third time you torque them tight.


Quote:
Originally Posted by VTX1300 OK View Post
I used foam weatherstripping tape on the clear lense of the speedo.
Rubber washers on the 6 bolts.
Everything lined up when installing it back.
Problem with foam is that it eventually squashes. I actually took out some that I had used. The foam used to work in the beginning but no more after a year of use. Thats why I decided to go in and just rubber layer the damn thing.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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Update:

Took the bike for a long spin.

Wow!

The ride was so much more peaceful. Not a single noise from the speedo/chrome nacelle. It's 10x better than when I used weatherproof foam when I first fix the rattle. Even noises I thought where coming from elsewhere are now gone.

I cruised through the same roads I know I'd get a dash vibe/noise. Nothing. Zero. Zip. Riding the bike has truly become a lot more enjoyable.

Couple of things I did somewhat differently:

1) Used dense rubber to line the perimeter of the speedo dash making contact against the nacelle. Not foam or velcro felt like I've read in other guides.

2) Get the speedo dash tight against the nacelle. Not floating.

Problem with using thick rubber is it increases space between the speedo mounts which means using longer bolts and not OEM bolts.

The OEM bolts are shouldered with specific dimensions and impossible to find on hardware stores. So you have to use longer regular bolts and then create washers that can fill up the space for the bolts to press down on the outer nacelle mounts.

Also using 2 OEM washers instead of 1 if using OEM bolts helps a lot.

Make sure the nacelle is resting correctly against the rubber-covered metal tank on the tank's front. It's easy to mistakenly install the nacelle without it resting correctly on the tab if you're using longer bolts.

Tsukayu VTX hard bags & Tour trunk, Saddlemen touring seat with backrest, NC custom windshield, Risers, LED lightbar, Engine guard LED lights, Cobra fatty guard, Rear engine guards, Fender rail guard, Leather tank bib, Passenger floorboards, 12v socket, ISO grips WITH bar weights, Engine chrome, Triple tree cover, Shaft cover, Fenders chrome, Progressive forks & 12.5 inch shocks, All Balls mod, Chrome clock, Adjustable trunk rack
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 07:59 PM
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Or just get a louder exhaust
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