Rear Brake Liight - VTXOA
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
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Rear Brake Liight

Light doesn't come on with the front brake lever. I jump the wires at the switch and light comes on. I bench tested the switch for continuity and it tested O.K. Reinstalled the switch and no brake light. Did this several times and also sprayed contact cleaner heavy on the switch and the button area. It seams like such a simple circuit. I will be ordering a new switch. Any suggestion's?.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 08:15 AM
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I had an issue with the front brake switch once.
It happened after a long ride in the rain.
A little blob of crap formed on the contacts.
For me when the switch was activated, the brake light had a delay before the bulb would begin to light up.
It never got to full illumination. It was as if it was on a dimmer.
I also had leds connected to the brake circuit and when the voltage finally got up to 8 volts the leds would light up.
A scraping of the contacts and a shot of WD40 and still working after all these years.

That little blob was like a thermistor on the fuel level gauge, when it got hot the lamp would light up.
The brake filament takes about 2 amps vs microamps on the DMM continuity test.
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File Type: jpg Brake sw2.jpg (41.6 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg Brake sw1.jpg (43.6 KB, 6 views)
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2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 193,834 VTX miles

Last edited by Hans&Feet; 06-25-2019 at 08:23 AM.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans&Feet View Post
I had an issue with the front brake switch once.
It happened after a long ride in the rain.
A little blob of crap formed on the contacts.
For me when the switch was activated, the brake light had a delay before the bulb would begin to light up.
It never got to full illumination. It was as if it was on a dimmer.
I also had leds connected to the brake circuit and when the voltage finally got up to 8 volts the leds would light up.
A scraping of the contacts and a shot of WD40 and still working after all these years.

That little blob was like a thermistor on the fuel level gauge, when it got hot the lamp would light up.
The brake filament takes about 2 amps vs microamps on the DMM continuity test.

How does that come apart?
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 09:50 AM
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I believe two plastic pins hold the pieces together.
I believe I cut/ground off/drilled (one of those choices) the head and it came apart.
Many years ago.

2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 193,834 VTX miles
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 06:22 PM
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Just to satisfy my stupidity, is that supposed to be a normally closed switch as it appears in the first pic from Hans?
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 09:16 PM
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It could be, then the brake lever is holding it open until you operate the lever.

2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 193,834 VTX miles
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Pried it partially apart, sprayed a lot of contact cleaner in the switch, pinched it closed and it works. Now that I am convinced it is the switch, I will probably replace it. Squeezing the brake lever releases the pin/contacts, light comes on, so it is a normally closed switch.



Last edited by jackk; 06-26-2019 at 07:24 AM.
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