Starting Issue. Runs, Dies, Can't Restart....But - Page 2 - VTXOA
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post #11 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-02-2019, 12:53 PM
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After cleaning carb I would also replace all vacuum lines while your there, dry rot had mine all screwed up then seafoam for a few tanks of gas.
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post #12 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-02-2019, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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My 2004 1300C


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post #13 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-02-2019, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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Curve Ball! I'm working on the carb/float needle etc. As I turn the carb upside down there are two hose connectors that I'm thinking I capped when doing the PAIR removal. They are now hard and crusty/falling apart. I'm trying to find the PAIR instructions that told me to cap them to get the size of them. These two arms are down by the float bowl. The PAIR instructions I found don't even mention them....which has me wondering. On the Partzilla Honda carb diagram they are labeled E2 and F34 (I don't understand the designation or where to find the name of the two connectors)



Does anybody have any ideas for replacing these two caps with something that will last?? And confirm they were part of the PAIR REMOVAL.

My 2004 1300C


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post #14 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-02-2019, 04:55 PM
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E2 and F34 are the coolant hoses to the carb.
Reduces emissions, better drive ability at cold start.
Not related to PAIR.
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2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 192,882 VTX miles
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post #15 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-02-2019, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuthbert J Twillie View Post
Curve Ball! I'm working on the carb/float needle etc. As I turn the carb upside down there are two hose connectors that I'm thinking I capped when doing the PAIR removal. They are now hard and crusty/falling apart. I'm trying to find the PAIR instructions that told me to cap them to get the size of them. These two arms are down by the float bowl. The PAIR instructions I found don't even mention them....which has me wondering. On the Partzilla Honda carb diagram they are labeled E2 and F34 (I don't understand the designation or where to find the name of the two connectors)



Does anybody have any ideas for replacing these two caps with something that will last?? And confirm they were part of the PAIR REMOVAL.
I dont believe there is anything on the carb that is supposed to be capped
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post #16 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-02-2019, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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E2 and F34 are the coolant hoses to the carb.
Reduces emissions, better drive ability at cold start.
Not related to PAIR.
In my Clymer manual they are specifically noted for California bikes. Mystery solved. I have a non Cali bike, that's why they are capped! Because the caps had dried and cracked and opened up the ends of the tubes, they apparently had no effect on the performance of my bike. It's a 2004, no wonder they are dried and cracked. I found new vacuum caps at NAPA and replaced them. I did the carb cleaning and also cleaned the outside of the carb and it's related parts. Bike started fine. Took it for a ride and all is well in all gears as related to throttle. Smooth!


Now, the test comes in the morning when it is cold. Will it stay running after a cold start. If the cure was tapping the float bowl previously, I'm thinking it will start and remain running. I'll report back.

My 2004 1300C



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post #17 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-02-2019, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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I dont believe there is anything on the carb that is supposed to be capped
Me too. That's why it was such a curve ball. Because they were so dried and cracked, I figured they had to be on since new or near new. As it turns out, back in 2004 anyway, all carbs were California spec'd and if not a Cali bike, the stems were just capped.

My 2004 1300C


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post #18 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-03-2019, 05:20 AM
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In my Clymer manual they are specifically noted for California bikes. Mystery solved. I have a non Cali bike, that's why they are capped!
This is not accurate. All bikes have the coolant hoses attached. PO must have removed them. It would have no effect on your starting issue.

IIRC, there are CA specific carbs with extra emissions type stuff on them.
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Last edited by Donnie Downer; 08-03-2019 at 05:33 AM.
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post #19 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-03-2019, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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It's been a bad day! Not only did the bike not start/same symptom.....but get this. I took the float bowl off again to recheck everything and when screwing the last bolt/left rear, it strips! It never tightened, just kept turning. Understand I'm a soul of caution. I understand over tightening when aluminum is involved. I use a cautious snug when tightening. I doubt there's any fix to it.



I feel pretty defeated right now. Initial problem unsolved (although willing to work through it) and now this. I suspect this means a new carb. If it does, I wonder how tough it is putting that together. That choke assembly looks like a bear say nothing of the electrical part of it. I certainly am not going to have a stealership do it. Way to expensive for my pocketbook. I just spent money on foundation repairs. That money was going to replace my old truck. Not no more. Old truck is going to get older. Don't know how difficult it would be for me to put together a new carb. You guys who have done it will have to let me know how difficult it is. I don't know if the electrical portion is just a matter of unplugging and plugging in. The choke I can't even imagine what's involved.


This is a new problem. I'm going to do a new post and get some input.


Right now I feel just feel like selling it. But I just took delivery of new tires. I'll see what the forum offers for help.

My 2004 1300C


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post #20 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-03-2019, 09:56 PM
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I have had this problem before. I used a self taping screw slightly larger than the screw, and it works just fine, never a problem.

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62 years behind bars
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