Float Bowl Threads Stripped in Carb - VTXOA
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-03-2019, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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Float Bowl Threads Stripped in Carb

While putting the float bowl back on the carb, the left rear bolt/screw threads in the carb stripped. Uncertain how this happened, I suspect a previous owner issue. He had re-jetted. I know how careful you have to be with aluminum. He must not of known. I suspect there's no fix except a new carb? I suspect I can take all the parts off the old and put on a new carb body. When I went up to Partzilla I couldn't determine or see that you could by a carb shell for lack of a better term, I found nothing just all the add on parts. I've ordered parts easily enough but not understanding their system fully to see if I can buy just a carb body.


Has anyone done anything like this? Buy the carb body and use old carb parts to rebuild a new carb? Difficult? I'm wondering specifically about the choke and electrical portion.


Of course if there's a fix to my existing carb like retapping (but man, they are fine threads) the above is a moot point. I'm hoping there is a fix in this direction. I just don't know about it.


Thanks as always! Rog

My 2004 1300C


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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-03-2019, 06:24 PM
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I am surprised. Those screws are generally far to brittle to be able to torque to thread failure. So fine that cross threading unlikely. Maybe the PO used a damaged screw that then damaged the thread.


Where to go from here? You may be able to go up one screw size. Drill and tap, but I'm not sure you will have room. Looks like a full replacement is like $350 so it's worth a try IMO.


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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-03-2019, 08:40 PM
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I would use a self taping screw of just a little larger size than the factory screw. I have done this many times over the years with no problems.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harkon View Post
I am surprised. Those screws are generally far to brittle to be able to torque to thread failure. So fine that cross threading unlikely. Maybe the PO used a damaged screw that then damaged the thread.


Where to go from here? You may be able to go up one screw size. Drill and tap, but I'm not sure you will have room. Looks like a full replacement is like $350 so it's worth a try IMO.
I agree...a try of some kind. By the way, when you say full replacement of carb are you talking not just carb body but all other componants? Needles, choke etc. or just stripped out carb body? Thanks for the reply.

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Last edited by Cuthbert J Twillie; 08-04-2019 at 11:28 AM.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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I would use a self taping screw of just a little larger size than the factory screw. I have done this many times over the years with no problems.
Thanks for the reply! This is all new ground for me. I've only been riding for 3 years but not afraid of turning a wrench on it. Still on a learning curve. So it's encouraging to hear of your success with a self tapper. It's either that or tap a new just larger size it appears. Thanks again.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 02:36 PM
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I agree...a try of some kind. By the way, when you say full replacement of carb are you talking not just carb body but all other componants? Needles, choke etc. or just stripped out carb body? Thanks for the reply.
Item 20 here includes everything;
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ho...vtx/carburetor
It doesn't look like OEM sells just the body.



There are some here for cheap, but it's up to you to make them work;
https://www.bikebandit.com/honda-vtx...tors/pab/md579
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Harkon View Post
Item 20 here includes everything;
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ho...vtx/carburetor
It doesn't look like OEM sells just the body.

There are some here for cheap, but it's up to you to make them work;
https://www.bikebandit.com/honda-vtx...tors/pab/md579
Thank you for the info. Appreciated!

My 2004 1300C


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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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Success! No tapping no self threading screws. Took a lazy Sunday to take a very close look at the problem. The stripped threads were on the low side, just enough that the OEM bolt would not grip. The remaining threads above that are perfect. I got to thinking that a longer bolt would work. I wanted to replace all of the bolts with the hex head bolts many have used. So off to the hardware store and bought the next size longer M4X16 to see if it would work. I put the bowl up screwed it in and got all the bite needed to button it up. I was close to bottoming out the new bolt so I shimmed with a couple of washers. Fixed! Now...on to the "other" issue. Thanks everyone for your input. It's appreciated. Rog
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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Have been distracted by severe weather. Tennis ball size hail will do it every time. When it rains we get inches. There hasn't been a day when it's rained this season, where somewhere a severe storms develops and starts dropping monster size hail. I'm 62 lived here all my life and have never seen any thing like it.

Anyway, Ive thoroughly cleaned the carb/jets etc. I looked at the float valve closely. Looked fine. Nothing but a light ghost of a line wher it seats. No indent. Looked at the valve seat. It appeared OK, but not sure what I should recognize as trouble. Started it, ran fine. Took it for a very short ride, ran well, then the weather moved in. I'll attempt to start it cold (that's when I have the gas starve issue) and go for a ride to see how it acts. While I had it apart, I looked at the vacuum lines. They were pliable and looked fine, although, I could see cracks on the cut ends. I'll probably replace but not thinking the are the issue. Once I get the X started again and go for long rides with several engine stop/starts there's never an issue. Starts like a Honda should. Problem only appears with a cold engine start.

Probably nothing here but I'll mention it. Right before the issue appeared, the bike dropped on its left side in the driveway (first time), slight incline at idle, vibration collapses kick stand. Can't imagine that would cause my problem, but will throw it out there for greater minds than mine. OK, off to see if it will start.

That tiny, tiny cotter pin broke on the throttle assbly on the bent arm with spring. I've Jerry rigged it for know but will order a new one and at the same time get a new float valve, maybe a float too? but.......

It really nags me that it's a cold start issue, float valve works fine when the bike is on the road, stopped and restarted. Remember, I tap on the float bowl to get it started when it doesn't work. Then all is well. What is happening when the bike cools. And what parts affected?

My 2004 1300C



Last edited by Cuthbert J Twillie; 08-06-2019 at 10:12 AM.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
While I had it apart, I looked at the vacuum lines. They were pliable and looked fine, although, I could see cracks on the cut ends. I'll probably replace but not thinking the are the issue.
Agreed, that is not the issue.
However, the vacuum lines tend to crack on the inside, so you probably should replace them.

2007 1300 C Metallic Cabernet----34, 513 miles when purchased 09/2015
Now----92,365 miles
2007 1300 C Black----4,506 miles when purchased 12-31-2016
now----27,068 miles
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