Boom! New problem. Flanger Bearing. - Page 3 - VTXOA
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post #21 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 06:11 PM
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There was a VTX that wound up without a nut on the axle.
It probably involved a bearing that failed and locked to the axle.
Forward movement, CCW rotation (left side)could have turned the axle which loosened the nut.
So being in a ditch is a possibility...

https://www.vtxoa.com/forums/7-vtx-1...?action=thread
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2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 193,118 VTX miles

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post #22 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 10:17 PM
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I thought the flange bearing problem was exclusive to 1800's, I guess that's not correct. FWIW, Putting my first set of new tires on the bike is how I discovered that I had to replace my flange bearings at 8000 miles - rust was, or seemed to be the cause. I was able to buy the bearings and the spacer w/o the flange from the closest Honda dealer. I did not replace the flange with one of Jons, probably should have but that was almost 7 years / 40,000 miles ago with no more problem. I do keep the splines moly pasted real good, and lube/coat the axle before putting it back in every time it's off, and keep it away from pressure washers.
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Last edited by pushrod; 09-04-2019 at 10:47 PM.
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post #23 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by pushrod View Post
keep it away from pressure washers.
That has ruined a few bearings.

2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 193,118 VTX miles
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post #24 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 12:53 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans&Feet View Post
There was a VTX that wound up without a nut on the axle.
It probably involved a bearing that failed and locked to the axle.
Forward movement, CCW rotation (left side)could have turned the axle which loosened the nut.
So being in a ditch is a possibility...

https://www.vtxoa.com/forums/7-vtx-1...?action=thread
Whoa! That was one interesting thread to read! Thanks for the link! Learned something there.
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post #25 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Hans&Feet View Post
The early 1800's had the problem for the most part. Several 1300's, not many.
Check flange bearings when rear tire replaced.

I just replaced my flange bearings at 189, 518 miles.
One was notchy, the other felt ok but did not spin as nice as the new ones.

Stay calm.

I an not sure of the sequence of events of the OP, but something fell.
Flange has a snap ring that holds it on the wheel.

Now I'm paranoid, I have a 2003 1300 with 17,000 miles on it. spindle bearing went bad on my Dakota but that was obvious. should i look for metal shaving on the ground or hear grinding when I roll the bike? or do I need to remove the rear tire?
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post #26 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 10:11 AM
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Now I'm paranoid, I have a 2003 1300 with 17,000 miles on it. spindle bearing went bad on my Dakota but that was obvious. should i look for metal shaving on the ground or hear grinding when I roll the bike? or do I need to remove the rear tire?
If you have winter downtime, as part of your winter maintenance, I suggest pulling the wheel. You will want to clean off the moly paste from both the final drive and the wheel. You can then check the bearings at that time. Then remoly the splines before putting the wheel back on.

If you notice the flange bearing isn't smooth, either replace, or contact Jon and do the upgrade.

I did mine, on the spare wheel I bought when I went darkside. The wheel I bought, the flange bearing was rusted, and wouldn't even spin. My factory bearing was fine. Now, if I need to swap wheels, I will also swap the upgraded flange to whichever wheel is on the bike. It takes <5 mins to switch between wheels.
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post #27 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Thee_Oddball View Post
Now I'm paranoid, I have a 2003 1300 with 17,000 miles on it. spindle bearing went bad on my Dakota but that was obvious. should i look for metal shaving on the ground or hear grinding when I roll the bike? or do I need to remove the rear tire?
Remove wheel, look at flange bearing, then put your finger in there and turn the bearing.

If you see problem, replace them.
If the bearing does not turn smoothly, replace it.
Attached Images
File Type: png OEM flange bearings both sides.png (281.1 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg Hans Flange and new bearings 20190327.jpg (275.7 KB, 5 views)

2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 193,118 VTX miles

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post #28 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Hans&Feet View Post
Remove wheel, look at flange bearing, then put your finger in there and turn the bearing.

If you see problem, replace them.
If the bearing does not turn smoothly, replace it.
LOL...reminds me of a certain Gieco Commercial...
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post #29 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 11:43 AM
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Heres' a pic of the flange bearing. Balls exposed. Pieces of race in the grease I cleaned out. It's so strange I never noticed any grinding when pushing the bike in and out of the garage. The bearings are very hard to move. Grinding to the max.


You won't feel it on the bike. The flange bearings carry little to no load of the bike. The wheel bearings do that. The flange bearings just support that hubs weight. That's why you check them with the wheel off the bike and spin them with your fingers
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post #30 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 03:38 PM
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2005 1300c Red, Mustang seat, HK 2.5 straights. Leds for safety-front & back. 193,118 VTX miles
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